Author Topic: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter  (Read 13768 times)

Offline gedmundson

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1951
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #15 on: April 16, 2016, 01:13:06 AM »
Great looking work, Chris! Thanks for posting your updates.
Cheers,
Gary

Offline Gisbod

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2438
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #16 on: April 16, 2016, 01:49:35 AM »
Yes, lovely job Chris,

Looking forward to seeing her coming along  :)

Guy
“Oh! I have slipped the surly bonds of Earth -
Put out my hand, and touched the face of God.”

P.O. John Gillespie Magee 1941

Offline BigBlue

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 640
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #17 on: April 16, 2016, 07:41:23 AM »
Thanks for looking in and leaving the kind comments, guys; appreciated as always.

     I had the same issues as you regarding the 2 vs. 4 blade prop question; despite having read the Data File and the Albatros Publications Special cover to cover and studying photos on line and elsewhere I could not find a definite answer. In the end, for my Build (McKeevers A-7288) I went with the 2 bladed prop shown in the Osprey Profile as well. I followed the same path on the Cooper Bomb Rack, none shown on the Osprey Profile so I left it off. Your A-7182 is the same Production Batch as mine (A-7101 to A-7300) and nearly all photos of this Batch that I've seen show a 2 blade configuration. The exceptions are A-7220 in Data File 115 and A-7300 when modified for Night fighter Trials. As for the guns I believe the single Lewis was standard.
    I hope someone has a more definitive answer or two for these questions, so many puzzles in this little hobby!
Cheers,
Lance

Lance, thanks for relaying your thought process to me, it is helpful.  At least I feel like I am not completely off base.  Its funny how much things have changed: here are two reasonably noteworthy aircraft (at least in the limited historical perspective of the Great War in the air) and not a picture exists, but I can find a limitless supply of pictures of random cats making funny faces with little effort.

Chris

Offline Ernie

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3961
  • "Once more into the breach"
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #18 on: April 16, 2016, 11:05:03 AM »
Terrific work, Chris.  The woodgrain is gorgeous.  I'm curious about the black primer...do
you feel it shows things up better than a light colour?  Nice update, my friend!

Cheers,
Ernie :)
The new old guy, take two...

Offline BigBlue

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 640
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #19 on: April 16, 2016, 12:10:28 PM »
Thanks for the kind words Ernie.  I have been using black primer (generally Mr. Finishing Surfacer, but I have picked up some Badger Stynlerez that I am experimenting with) for a couple of builds now.  I began using it on a couple of WWII builds, and found it easier to get subtle results by fill in the panel centers with lighter undercoat than it was to shade panel lines with darker spray over lighter primer  (This situation is reversed if you want to, say, highlight the fuselage framing, etc. so it works better in some cases than others, but I still find it easier to achieve the results I am after spraying light over dark.)  Additionally, I originally used gray primer, but had a harder time judging coverage over gray plastic, so was less likely to overdo it with the black.  Now it is mostly just habit, and the fact that I really like the Mr. Finishing Surfacer finish, and find it very easy to spray. 

My initial results with the Badger are very good and it also comes in white and gray, so it is tonally agnostic. :)  It is acrylic and odorless which is very nice, but the downsides include a more laborious airbrush cleaning and the need to CRANK up the psi which is at the limit of my inexpensive little compressor's abilities.  I also use the Mr. Finishing surfacer to deal with some of the small hairline seams which I am unable to completely eliminate via conventional filling and sanding; I would not expect the Badger primer to perform this function.

Hope that helps.

Chris

Offline Ernie

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3961
  • "Once more into the breach"
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #20 on: April 16, 2016, 12:37:47 PM »
Thanks Chris...much appreciated. :D

Cheers,
Ernie :)
The new old guy, take two...

Offline bobs_buckles

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3871
  • Freedom isn't free.
    • Bobs Buckles
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #21 on: April 16, 2016, 04:54:09 PM »
Coming together beautifully, Chris. Well done that man!

 ;) :)

vB



https://www.bobsbuckles.co.uk/

Last Minute Man Of Faith

Offline BigBlue

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 640
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter A-7182
« Reply #22 on: April 17, 2016, 11:46:36 AM »
Thanks Bob, I appreciate your looking in!

As I mentioned in the last update, not all of my time working on this build has been at the modeling bench.  Here is an image showing some of the work I've been doing to prepare to paint the aircraft's markings:



The roundels' measurements are taken from the kit's decal sheet (using the smaller of the two fuselage options.)  The identification code was done mostly by hand using a scan of the Dempsey profile.  I couldn't get the '2' worked out to my satisfaction, so I used my software's trace functionality to get an approximate shape using the '2' in the '12' for kit option D, which I cleaned up and shrunk to size.  The fuselage bars are also based on the profile in the Guttman book.  I did some basic math and they came out to something between to 4.75 and 5" wide in 1:1 scale, so I've made the assumption that humans were likely to pick a whole number and went with the 5".  I went through a similar reverse-engineering process in determining the spacing between them.  Hopefully I am correct that the RFC would have been using inches as a measure in 1917.... 

As an aside, the notch in the mask wall around the fuselage roundel is to help me line them up in relation to edge of the gunner's portal.  Similarly, the closer edge on each of the tail numbers will line up with the vertical rear edge of the stabilizer.  The red lines will cut through the Tamiya sheet tape I am using for the masks, and the green lines will also cut through the backing paper.  The semi-octagonal shape of the lower wing masks is intended to minimize the amount of tape in contact with the Aviattic decals which I will be using for the CDL.  I'll use Post-Its to expand the mask once in place.  I have also found that too much extra material around the mask openings can make it hard for me to judge placement, so I have tried not to give myself too much extra material.

For software, I am using Silhouette Studio.   While not perfect, it is the most complete and cost effective option for me at the moment.  I used to have Adobe Illustrator, but couldn't justify the expense of upgrading once my operating system no longer supported my out of date version.  Illustrator this is not, but I have managed to do everything I've needed to so far, and the concepts are similar. 

Chris


Offline Ernie

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3961
  • "Once more into the breach"
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #23 on: April 17, 2016, 12:33:24 PM »
What a neat thing to be able to do your own markings.  Interesting
explanation on your process, Chris.  I am looking forward to seeing
the finished product, my friend.

Cheers,
Ernie :)
The new old guy, take two...

Offline Des

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 9325
    • ww1aircraftmodels.com
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #24 on: April 17, 2016, 12:48:16 PM »
Excellent work with the masks Chris, I looking forward to seeing how this translates into the actual aircraft markings.

Des.
Late Founder of ww1aircraftmodels.com and forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com

Offline BigBlue

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 640
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #25 on: April 17, 2016, 06:46:20 PM »
Thanks Ernie.  My fingers are very much crossed.

I looking forward to seeing how this translates into the actual aircraft markings.

Des.

You and me both, Des!  I painted the markings on my DVII, but its a pretty big jump from black crosses to here.  This is certainly the most ambitious attempt at painting that I have undertaken.

Offline moustique

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 242
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #26 on: April 17, 2016, 09:36:12 PM »
your work is spectacular
I'm looking forward
it's a real pleasure

Offline BigBlue

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 640
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #27 on: April 18, 2016, 10:26:07 AM »
Thank you for the generous comments Moustique.  I'm glad to have you along.

Chris

Offline RAGIII

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 19957
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #28 on: April 18, 2016, 11:05:34 PM »
I envy your ability to create those Masks! I need to find someone willing to create a few for me at a fair price. I don't have the equipment or skills  :-[
RAGIII
"A man has to know his limitations": Harry Callahan

"Don't slop it on" Lynda Geisler

Offline BigBlue

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 640
Re: WnW Bristol F.2b Fighter
« Reply #29 on: May 04, 2016, 11:28:24 AM »
Time for an update.

More fun with vector art:



One of my goals for this build has been to see what uses I can find for the Silhouette cutter in this hobby, and the CDL lower surfaces seemed like an opportunity to put some more complicated masks to use.  I have spent nearly as much time working at the computer as I have at my modeling table, but enjoy this type of work, so it suits me.  The intersection between computer design and the physical world has always been appealing to me (Bo, your 3D printing is completely fascinating to me...), so the cutter is right in the sweet spot for me.

I started by scanning the various kit parts to get a template from which to work, then used various internal photographs and design plans to work out the internal bits.  Once I was satisfied with the artwork, I printed... er.... cut out the design on Tamiya sheet tape:   



I used clear frisket film to transfer the weeded masks to the model:



From here, it is straightforward airbrush work.  Thin, loose layer of Tamiya Deck Tan (XF-55) for the areas between the spars where the darker upper wing shows through; remove mask and follow with a thin coat (3:1 thinner/paint) of XF-2 flat white to tie everything together.



As you can see in the vector art image above, I also cut a mask for a oil seepage stain on the lower wing.  This took a bit more planning:  Deck Tan and thin Flat White coats first without any masks.  Mask the outline of the stain, and spray Desert Yellow (XF-59).  Remove the stain mask, and put down the mask for the spaces between the spars and framing (this stays in place until painting is done).  With this in place, cover the still exposed "stained" parts and spray a coat of XF-2.  Uncover the stained spar areas, and cover the dry spar areas, spray Dark Yellow (XF-60) to represent the wood framing beneath the transparent wet linen:



All of this will eventually be covered by Aviattic transparent CDL decals, so I sincerely hope I have struck the right contrast/color etc.  The additional pre-decal staining seen above was done with oil washes and colored pencils.  I will cover the stained section first as I think that has the most potential to miss the mark for the look I am hoping for, and I want to make sure I have extra decal material if needed.

Overall, the masking went fairly smoothly, and without too much trouble.  In the first image, you can see where I modeled the internal spar in a number of pieces (between each rib) with the thought that I'd spray the first coat of Deck Tan, then remove them and "bury" it a bit with a second coat.  These proved too thin and fussy to be effective: either the cutter had trouble generating cleanly separating the .75 mm wide pieces, or I couldn't keep them in place while transferring them to the model.  I wound up just using .5 mm tape which was far simpler.  (One could argue that the same could be said of the tried and true strips of tape method of making the rib tapes; like I said before, I wouldn't have done it this way if I didn't enjoy it.)  I also took 2 attempts to get the stain masking procedure figured out:  my first attempt involving removing and replacing the frame mask left visible lines where I did not get it perfectly lined up the second time.

That's it for now.  The artwork for cutting the Aviattic sheet is already done, but I have decided to paint the upper surfaces first as I want to minimize the handling once the decals are on.  Hopefully the next update won't be as delayed as this one was (I was away for 8 days on a family vacation after my last post.)  Thanks for looking in, and as always, questions, comments or suggestions are always welcome.

Chris

p.s. Does anyone have any suggested (Tamiya) color mixes for the red and blue of the roundels and rudder?  Thanks in advance.