DH 10 in 72nd scale.

[Squiffy]

After learning a few things with my first ever scratch-built aeroplane (The Eastchurch Kitten) I have decided to tackle something larger and more complex. Although scratch-building is interesting in itself there is no point in scratching something that can already be bought as a kit, especially if, like me, your skills aren't going to better a kit.

So, I've decided to have a crack at a DH10 because, as far as I'm aware, there is no kit currently available.


The wing parts are made from laminated plasticard. To get a curve repersentative of an approximate aerofoil shape, rather than simply flat plasticard, I squashed the parts in a vice and left them overnight. When the vice was released they sprang back to a flatter section but with just enough curve left in them. Filing and sanding the leading and trailing edges did the rest.


The scale drawing was printed off and the ribs marked on in pencil so that once the parts were taped on to the drawing the positions of the ribs were easily located. 0.010" x 0.020" microstrip was fixed in place by brushing liquid MEK on.

The next thing will be to use the same material for the shorter ribs on the leading edges.

[Des]

What a great project you have taken Squiffy, I will be following along closely.

Des.

[coyotemagic]

Awesome project, Squiffy!  I'm looking forward to following this one.  I've got an old Aurora DH10 that I plan on updating soon.  Maybe this build will inspire me to start on mine.
Cheers,
Bud

[Ronkootje]

I hope you have let the wings dry long enough my first wnw albatros has sinkholes at the trailing edge witch apeared mounths later.

Why not buy 3/4/5 mm solid styreen plate depending on the thickness off your wing ofcourse and file/sand it out.
I have redone the Ansaldo top wing 9 times and i had the blanck ready in 30min using this technique.
I use a rough metal file half round and one flat end for the rough profile then switch to a fine halfround metal file when iam happy whith the shape i use a shapry to color the whole wing red then wett sand it whit p180 unthil all the redd is gone then color it red again simple sharpy will do with a big tip and go p240 repeat this unthil you reach p1000 and presto wing shape done when you get the hang off it youl be able to do it in 30 also.
Keep in mind though to keep about 0.10 oversize when rought so you can do the final shaping with sandpaper. Do the trailing first at 0.4 and when the whole wing is smooth trim it down to an nice thickness of 0.3 0.2 maby depending on the wing again.
When doing this sand strockes shoud be moving frome the leading edge to the the traling edge to avoid destroing your hard work
O and when wett sanding use a kitch sponge and wrap the sand paper arround it and let the sand paper do the work.

Ron

[GAJouette]

 Squiffy,
Welcome to the world of alchemy AKA scratchbuilding my old friend. You've certainly chosen an excellent subject but be aware that the powers that be will undoubtedly release a DH 10 in 1/72 scale shortly. But in the mean time I'm very much looking forward to watching your progress. Best of luck to you.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette

[malaula]

Now that is a thread i'll be watching closely,Squiffy,for it's on a subject i've been thinkin'about doin' ever since!
Lookin' forward on how your wings will turn out!
cheers
Mathias

[ermeio]

A very  interesting subject squiffy
It brings memories of the old aurora 1/48 kit with the wing sections resembling those of the f117.
But in 72 i think there was only a very old vacuform

[RAGIII]

Squiffy,
Like the others have said, I am looking forward to another of your builds. This one is sure to be inspiring! Lovely start on the wing!
RAGIII

[IanB]

Excellent choice Squiffy. I have my ringside seat booked!

Ian

[Squiffy]

More done today.

As my description of "squashed in a vice" didn't really tell much, here is a pic to show what I mean.

The laminated plasticard is held in steel channels (old umbrella spindles, which will go on to become rain gutters on buildings on my O gauge model railway) and the vice tightened to give the plastic a curve. It is somewhat overtightened as the plastic will assume a flatter state once removed but retains just enough curve.


Clockwise from top - Bare blank wing, Sanded and ribs added, Leading edge ribs added and smoothed, finished wing with coat of paint to see how it looks.


The aileron is represented by scoring with an OLFA cutter both before and after adding the ribs. The cutter actually takes out a tiny piece of plastic rather than scoring and leaving raised edges as a Stanley, or craft knife, would do.

[radio]

Exellent work and great choice.
Cheers
Martin

[andonio64]

Squiffy I always love following your builds, this is one of the most interesting ever.

Do you feel confident enough that the curved plasticard won't ever (even in a medium-long term) go back to the original flat shape?

I am just curious, because I would fear that but maybe you have deeper knowledge on the material (I have none!)

BTW great work so far!

Antonio

[Squiffy]

Hello Antonio,

Good question. The only answer I can give is that it will definitely retain some shape but as to how much I can't be sure. I've worked with plasticard many times before when building things for my model railway but I can't think of anything I've done before that has required it to be bent to shape and have nothing to support it to keep the shape.

I guess the chaps who have more experience of building aeroplanes with this material will know for sure.

[RAGIII]

Your wings are looking terrific Squiffy!
RAGIII

[Squiffy]

The lower wings. Setting the dihedral with the aid of insulation tape and a couple of Bic pens.


First part of the fuselage cut out.