Rigging interiors

[ericw43]

After many years I have started to build models again....and I am glad to have done so. Presently, I am building the Tamiya A6M5 Type 52 Zero kit in 1/32 scale. So far it has been fun and easy as long as I take my time:)

Previosuly my father and I have built wooden ship models. We only completed two of them due to the time it takes to build them. Airbrushing is new to me and I have two airbrushes (Badger 150 and an Iwata Eclipse HP CS). I purchased these two airbrushes three years ago and practiced with them for many weeks by painting cardboard and tin cans but I am still no expert by any means. Techniques such as applying washes, paint fading/sun fading, Phot Etched, weathering and even decal application are all new to me. So far with the Tamiya Zero kit, all painting done with the airbrushes has turned out rather well. I applied washes with Wndsor and Newton Artist oil colors and it turned out according to plan! Even applying decals has been succesful by using Micro Sol and Micro Set.  I am learning that thinning paint ratios with solvents and applying the correct PSI is paramount to achieving success. I have also learned that the same holds true for brush painting.

Due to happily getting back into this interesting hobby, I am considering what to build next. The kits from Wing Nut Wings have garnered my attention and interest. I have also been looking at a 1/32 SBD Dauntless kit from Trumpeter.

Wing Nut Wings allows users to download instructions directly from their website. I downloaded many of these instructions to read the steps involved in creating the kits. This website has alos provided me with an abundance of information regarding rigging exteriors, making exteriors, painting wood grain effects, etc.

One thing I am concerned about with the Wing Nut Wing kits is interior rigging (and to an extent ..external rigging). Is the process/technique for creating interior rigging the same as one would do exterior rigging? I note that Wing Nut Wings provides customers with rigging diagrams for both internal and external rigging but they are just diagrams with no explicit written words as to how to go about this process. The one thing that is keeping me from purchasing a Wing Nut kit is rigging. If I am to do a WWI plane I want to make it as accurate as possible. I see the instructions for Wing Nut Wings interior rigging in the instruction manual usually follow the completion of the cockpit and interior fuselage. But at what stage during building should one drill out the interior rigging holes/ports?

I apologize for my ignornace:D Thank you for your time and I also want to thank this website for being the best I have found to inform WWI model aircraft modellers.

Have fun,

Eric

[ericw43]

Thanks sir for the fast reply. Yes the Junkers doesn't need rigging but I want to do rigging .

[gcn]

Theres a couple of ways you can go. Firstly the brass sleeve and eyelet method (check Des's home page for how to's) or based on what you can actually see once the model is completed I prefer to use a simpler and quicker method of using knit in elastic and attaching it via super glue to the outside of the frame. I'll also use this for internal control cables as well saving the fishing line and eyelets for the externals as IMO this combo looks the best.

[Pete Nottingham]

Hi Eric;

As the others have said there are two methods of rigging material, the elastic/EZ line route or the fishing line route, personally I prefer the fishing line with eyelet method, simply because if you take the real aircraft, rigging when tightened, applied extra strength to the aircraft, on the model, when you tighten fishing line it does to a certain extent apply extra strength, but with elastic you can't tighten it up, it always has stretch in it, so you tend to lose that extra strength.

Which ever method you choose don't be frightened of rigging, it can be a bit daunting to start off, but when once you get in to a rhythm it gets easier until you get to a point where you look back and think 'what on earth was I worried about'.

To get to your original question about interior rigging, which ever method you use, doesn't really matter, because it is only for appearance sake that you use it, it's not essential to the strength of the model.

Good luck with your builds and rigging, any problems just ask, you will get nothing but helpful advice and tips on the forum and remember it's only a hobby, enjoy.

Cheers

Pete.

[Rizzo]

Hi Eric;

As the others have said there are two methods of rigging material, the elastic/EZ line route or the fishing line route, personally I prefer the fishing line with eyelet method, simply because if you take the real aircraft, rigging when tightened, applied extra strength to the aircraft, on the model, when you tighten fishing line it does to a certain extent apply extra strength, but with elastic you can't tighten it up, it always has stretch in it, so you tend to lose that extra strength.

One thing I worry about with using elastic is how long it will last before deteriorating- something that would seem to be much less of an issue with fishing line?
I like that you can paint fishing line too, but actually I find the strength aspect a bit of a pain... until I get more confidence in my ability to attach eyelets securely.

[GAJouette]

  Eric,
Over the years I tried and use just about every technique for rigging my interiors. The two methods that work best for me are fine wire with a section of electrical wire insulation for the turnbuckels for the project I don't build up a interior frame. Second for those with an interior frame I use fine brass tubing for the turnbuckels and invisible sewing thread or fishing line for the rigging depending on the scale.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette

[ericw43]

Thank you for the replies to my questions. I appreciate it.

I have read about the EZ line material used for rigging and most modellers seem to like this stuff but a few still prefer using monofilament/fishing line. I guess the type used by fly fisherman.

I guess the only way for me to find out would be for me to ......try:)

Making turnbcuckles or buying them and the mehtod applied to applying them to a model doesn't seem like it is out of my ability! The techniques posted on this website give excellent examples of how it is done. So..I will give it a go and see how if I am able to do this. I am asure the first eyelet, turnbuckle and rigging line I attempt to duplicate, will be the toughest ha:)
Again, I will take my time and make sure to comprehend the building instructions.

Thanks again for all the advice.

Eric

[JoeDxMB]

I decide to try EZ line.
So, I just ordered a .003 charcoal sample pack to get me started.

Was I correct in assuming that I got the correct size and color? Can it be used for both 1/48 and 1/32?

[Whiteknuckles]

Hi Eric and welcome to this wonderful forum.
I'm only a newbie to all this but, if I may be so bold: with the WNW instructions in hand (and with your previous experience), follow one/couple of Des' build logs on the main site along with the many build logs on this forum. With your background I'm sure you'll have a stringbag rigged up in no time - inside and out!!

Andrew

[GAJouette]

  Joe,
Here you go my friend Des's excellent tutorial.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette

LINK:    http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com/page6.html