Fokker Streaking. Show your Method

[Berman]

Rick,
       Which form of cadmium yellow do you use?  Light, medium, or deep?

[RAGIII]

Rick,
       Which form of cadmium yellow do you use?  Light, medium, or deep?

Thanks for asking as I had forgotten to mention that I use DEEP!
RAGIII

[RAGIII]

I thought of a couple of other things worth mentioning. Because the oils are a "TAD" messy, I wait until all of the uppers are dry and clear coated, then mask off the turn around on the fuselage and paint the blue unders! This makes for a crisp separation on the leading edges of the wings. I then paint the cross back grounds and add any squadron /personal markings.
RAGIII

[nmroberto]

Hey Rick, this is going to be very helpful on my next build. 

Have you ever tried adding driers, like jap drier,  to the oil paints?  It does make oil paint dry somewhat faster, I've used it on paintings but wondered if it would work with your technique.

[RAGIII]

Never tried driers per say. As I said I use Testors Airbrush thinner which is fairly hot and speeds up drying time a little. As the process itself is fairly quick I see no reason that driers should prove to be a problem.
RAGIII

[Chris Johnson]

I just stumbled on this thread now Rick and I'm sure glad that I did. Excellent information here.

Cheers,

Chris

[eindecker]

Ltn Steinhauser


Ltn Weiss

Eduard 1:48. Oils over Tamiya acrylic light blue, mixed in batches and applied sequentially light to dark, blending the shades with a rather stiff brush. My reading is that the colors were more in the green and blue spectrum than olive and brown.

The personal markings, yellow and red, were masked and painted with Tamiya acrylics. I used a satin flat coat, but don't remember which brand.

[radio]

You can see my Voss F1 aircraft.
First priming, then painting with Torquise at last with dry brush Olive colour.
Martin

[coyotemagic]

Beautifully done, Martin.
Cheers,
Bud

[radio]

Thank you Bud.
Martin

[RAGIII]

Eduard 1:48. Oils over Tamiya acrylic light blue, mixed in batches and applied sequentially light to dark, blending the shades with a rather stiff brush. My reading is that the colors were more in the green and blue spectrum than olive and brown.

The personal markings, yellow and red, were masked and painted with Tamiya acrylics. I used a satin flat coat, but don't remember which brand.

Thanks for posting! I am not in this to debate colors, but your streaking is beautiful so now a few questions,
1. You said Sequentially lighter to darker. Do you wait for the previous coat to dry?
2.What consistency of paint are you using/ wet or dry?
3.Any in progress shots possible? My intention with this thread is to show ANY METHOD and Provide the Necessary info to use the process. Thanks again for posting your METHOD!
RAGIII

[eindecker]

Thank you. I did these models about six years ago. I may have a few progress shots, but I will need to dig around in the photo archives to see. As well as I can remember, I painted the entire aircraft (except for the struts, etc.) a light blue. Figuring the Fokker painters layered their streaky colors over this, I mixed oils straight from the tubes to get a greenish olive color and brushed it on directly with a chisel brush, about a quarter of an inch wide. I angled the strokes on the wings, striving for deeper and lighter color densities focused in areas, or "patches" as I went. I got some of this variation by cleaning the brush and stroking in the same direction, removing areas of the paint.

I then mixed in a little umber, to get a darker olive shade and applied this in "patches" as well. I removed excess paint using the clean brush method until it looked right. I think I made one more sparing pass with a darker shade than the second. Not very much of this though. Where the contrasting edges were too sharp, I used a small, round brush to blend the colors, but not enough to blend out the streaks. When it looked "right" to me, I stopped and let it dry for a week before gloss coating the decal areas — mainly the insignia areas — applied those and hit it with a satin flat.

I used pastels to highlight the rib tapes on Weiss' aircraft.

If I can find in-progress images, I will post them in a follow up.

[RAGIII]

Thank You for the Further info on your Method! similar to mine but perhaps a little more refined/controlled. I like the results! As I said about colors, depending on what "School" you are in, the Green can be more Olive brown by adding just a touch of red to the mix. I have also recently experimented with a pre mixed Olive green and someday will show the results on this thread.
RAGIII

[RAGIII]

I just stumbled on this thread now Rick and I'm sure glad that I did. Excellent information here.

Cheers,

Chris

Thanks Chris, I hope my method and others posted to this thread will continue to help modelers master Fokker Streaking.
RAGIII

[eindecker]

One observation. Looking at period photos of streaking, especially those taken in the Fokker shop, and of F.103/17, I think many models have their brush strokes, or lines, too large. I like a fine bristled brush and work to
make the bristle marks as fine as I can. More to scale I think. This is where oils come into their own. Extensive working time. You pay for that with long curing time, but I think it is worth it.