Heelp Needed; Weather techinques for clear doped linen.

[FarEast]

Hi all,

I'm very new to the forums and also WW1 model aircraft! After a 16 year break for building scale models I got bought a WnW Snipe Late edition and I'm at the point now where I'm scratching my head.

I really need some tips on how to weather the clear doped linen on the under surfaces of the snipe - I'm building the Snipe as E6351, GS Sapozhnikov, 1st Soviet Fighter Aviaotryad and from the images the aircraft was very weathered on the CDL.

So any help, tips or tutorials would be greatly welcome!

Many thanks in advance!

[Jamo]

Looking at some photos showing castor oil staining, mud flung etc is the first step, so you know what you are trying to achieve. I have taken a bunch of photos of reproduction aircraft from The Vintage Aviator Ltd which have original engines and are used reasonably frequently. Have a look here:
http://s1011.photobucket.com/user/Jamo_kiwi/library/#/user/Jamo_kiwi/library/Weathering%20WWI%20aircraft?sort=6&page=0&_suid=1410828843227023049886988033308

Here are a few that may be useful

Snipe shots
 taken just after a flight, it was dripping with castor oil









Sopwith Pup











SE5a



Hope this helps

Cheers
James

[FarEast]

Absolutely brilliant images thank you!

However I need help now on the technique to get the castor oil run effect....... would it be a cast of a really watery black or grey and then overspraying it on to the wing surface?

[Ian from Doncaster]

I use a similar method but with ground up pastels.  I rub the stick onto some sandpaper and use a soft brush or q-tip (or even a pinky) to apply the powder.  I find the powder is great for general dirtying up but for wet oil stains a glossier finish may be required?  Anything will do, often I use Klear/Future tinted with a drop of greenish/yellowish/brown and a fine thin brush.

[FarEast]

Hi,

I do do most of my weathering with Tamiya Weathering Master kits.

Why oh why did I not thing of that! What do you think is it realistic? Again this is the first ever kit I've built with CDL parts that needed painting.... absolutely loving it but scary as hell!

[lcarroll]

I use a similar method but with ground up pastels.  I rub the stick onto some sandpaper and use a soft brush of q-tip (or even a pinky) to apply the powder.  I find the powder is great for general dirtying up but for wet oil stains a glossier finish may be required?  Anything will do, often I use Klear/Future tinted with a drop of greenish/yellowish/brown and a fine thin brush.

   I use this same identical technique. I used to combine it with a lot of washes for oil and fuel stains however I find that I'm using more pastels mixed into water and less paint all the time. It also serves well for Post Shading. I've just started to experiment with Oil Paint washes as opposed to enamel or acrylic ones however pastels are still my first choice.
Cheers,
Lance

[gcn]

I have a 59 (maybe slightly less) stage process dependant upon how weathered I want it to look. And I know a picture paints a thousand words which I will try to rectify when I get chance, but that might not be until Thursday.

1. Base coat of 50/50 white and Tamiya deck tan thinned with IPA to allow quick coverage
2. Mask ribs
3. Highly thinned coat of off black (either black mixed with buff or a v dark grey) applied either side of ribs
4. Remove masking
5. Top coat of deck tan and/or Gunze sail colour to tone down shadows and warm and darken the whole thing up
6. Highly thinned oil wash mixing various brown tones as I see fit on the day applied leaving the very hint of streaking. This also acts as a filter and changes the colour quite a bit
7. Heavy oil staining applied with airbrush using various colours (browns, black and Tamiya smoke) to replicate where oil has soaked into the fabric. Darker stains nearer the engine and lightening up as you move outwards.
8. Splattering. Again oil and mud based colours. I load a paint brush up with the highly thinned paint then blast the airbrush at it (pulsing motion) to create the splatters. I would never blast the first go after each brush loading at the model otherwise you may have a larger splatter than you bargained for.

I've left out the glossing and flattening stages for decals as they don't change the colour

..and that's about it. As I said the tripe i'm currently building just needs to be splattered so ill post a picture up when I get chance but to give you an idea of the effect im looking to create go along to the aces high magazine website and have a look at their preview page of a Pup (I think)

here you go http://aceshighmagazine.com/

[RAGIII]

The Snipe was my first attempt at oil blow back. I shamelessly stole others ideas mixed with my own. I wanted to show soaked in oil stains, used yellow ochre and a touch of raw umber and thinned it and let it puddle where I wanted the soaked look. Then I got darker, mixed in more raw and burnt umber and blew it back with the airbrush. Finally black and burnt sienna same technique. Wiped away anything I didn't like. As for the ribs, pre shaded with pastel chalks then over sprayed with thinned Tamiya deck tan. I know others have done better but thought mine was fairly good for a first try:
RAGIII

[FarEast]

Thank you thats exactly the kind of stuff I needed!

[Chris Johnson]

The Snipe was my first attempt at oil blow back. I shamelessly stole others ideas mixed with my own. I wanted to show soaked in oil stains, used yellow ochre and a touch of raw umber and thinned it and let it puddle where I wanted the soaked look. Then I got darker, mixed in more raw and burnt umber and blew it back with the airbrush. Finally black and burnt sienna same technique. Wiped away anything I didn't like.

I like your idea of using the airbrush to do the blow back Rick. That sounds about as close to real as you can get.

Cheers,

Chris

[compressor man]

Here is a build in which I am working on a Se5a. I briefly describe how I did exactly what you are wanting to do.

http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=2846.msg54453#msg54453

Chris

[RAGIII]

Here is a build in which I am working on a Se5a. I briefly describe how I did exactly what you are wanting to do.

http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=2846.msg54453#msg54453

Chris

Thanks for posting the link to your build. You were one of the Modelers whose Ideas I shamelessly stole 
RAGIII

[compressor man]

No problem RAGIII, my consultation fees are very reasonable

Chris