Albatros D-V (Roden 1/72)

[vincentm]

Thank you all.

now you are wandering into the realm of pure speculation...Ain't WWI modelling fun?

To tell the truth, I thought it would be worse. I just started reading WD books a few months ago and was surprised by the amount of existing photos. But when it comes to details now, well it's another story. Pure speculation are the right words...But I love WWI modelling though, just because those aircraft are so much rewarding.
However, I might take a little rest building a "relaxing" WWII monoplane before I get to the Pfalz D-IIIa that should follow...My nerves will need it.

I ended up scratch-building a full new fairing with aluminum tape hinges and metal wheel axles. I just painted it wood brown as an undercoat. We'll see for the color later, but it should be white.

[vincentm]

Here's the scratchbuilt wheel axle fairing. 2 hinges were still missing when I took the pics. Then I put back in place the tailskid I had cut away:


At this scale, the lower wings are so thin that you can see the light go through, making them look like stained glass.


I made a new trial at making the wires, this time without glue: the nylon thread is stretched through both micro-tubes. On the kit, I will add a drop of glue into each tube to make sure it remains tense enough.

[uncletony]

Nice work, Vincent. I feel guilty for putting you through the extra work on the axle fairing, hopefully it was worthwhile.

[RAGIII]

Looks great! I can't remember ever seeing as many great Tiny scale Albies under construction at one time. Your build and the other, Jasta 5 multi build are a real treat to follow!
RAGIII

[vincentm]

Thanks, and yes it looks like 1/72 Albatroses are "fashion". That's cool cos we can grab tips from each other and see how fellow modellers cope with some details.

I feel guilty for putting you through the extra work on the axle fairing

Never mind Bo, that was a good occasion to scratchbuild this part since the original one was not the right shape and lacked hinges. Moreover, I made stronger metal wheel axles.

[radio]

Graet work Vincent.
Martin

[Ernie]

Amazing work, Vincent.  

Cheers,
Ernie

[Nigel Jackson]

Wow Vincent! It's a long long time since I had a go at a 1/72 Albatros and it's amazing what you have achieved so far.

Best wishes
Nigel

[frame]

Hello vincentm
As I said in my topic, I am very impressed by your work.
Incredible detail and most splendid work camouflage.
I really like schemes logenze, but I've never performed one, it seems to me very difficult.
Аmazing work.
BRAVO.
I look forward with great interest the following posts.
Best Regards
Hristo

[vincentm]

Thank you Hristo. As for me, I'm impressed with the detailing on your Eduard Albatroses!
About lozenges, it is definitely very "time consuming". As I printed my own decals, I thought it would be easier to make only one large decal that would cover the entire wing. But when it came to cutting out the radiator and aileron areas, I realized it was not a good idea and had to cut my decal in stripes so I could apply each area and have the cutouts match the radiator and aileron shapes. If you want to have a go with printing custom lozenges, here's a sample of my work. You just need to paste the pattern in a paint program, rotating it 180° each time, to make a row of ready-to-print lozenges:

[frame]

Thank you very much for the sample.
I got the idea to print decals for Jasta 5 project because I can't find needed in stock.
Can I ask you to describe how you approach the work with hand-made ​​decals.
Thanks in advance.
Best Regards
Hristo

[vincentm]

I use my standard inkjet printer and Experts Choice clear decal sheets. To increase color density, I print the items twice on the same decal area. Then you need to allow ink to dry at least overnight. The next day, apply a good coat of gloss varnish with a smooth large brush over the printed items to protect them. When the varnish is dry, you can cut away the lozenge areas you need and apply as for usual decals.

You will get rather translucent decals so the underlying color is important, like on W&W decals for example. The undercoat color will slightly alter the lozenge colors. You can make a pre-shading of the ribs on the wings, which I didn't do on this model but will probably try on coming ones.

[vincentm]

I have glued all the semi-buried U-shaped rings on which the wires will be attached. I also added the small lever and bar that control the opening of the radiator grid. At the center, the MiniWorld Spandau barrels have been implanted into the Roden plastic breeches which fit the fuselage openings better.


The weathered fuselage, with its small rhodoid windscreen, the machine-guns and the exhaust stack. To get this "rusted metal" effect on it, I first sprayed a coat of a solid aluminum paint (eg Tamiya TS30), then I brush-painted the whole stack with red-brown enamel (Humbrol 70), and scratched the paint with a file in some areas of the part, to have the metal paint show-through:


The dirtiest areas of the upper wing (ie around the radiator and aileron horns) have been treated with oils, as well as the wheels and wheel axle fairing. I will increase the shading of the ribs later with more oil, after a coat of matt varnish:


Besides this, I've added a paved area on the stand. The pavement has been painted in various shades at random, then it has received an oil wash and pigments. The remaining area will be filled up with plaster to simulate the soil. Considering the answers I got about possible paved airfields, I changed the location of the aircraft and accessories: the plane will sit on the grass area representing the airfield, and the mechanic will be working on the other engine, on the paved area which is supposed to lead to hangers and field buildings.

[coyotemagic]

Truly extraordinary work, Vincent!  As fine as any larger scale Albatros I've seen.  Looking forward to seeing her completed.
Cheers,
Bud

[uncletony]

Great work Vincent!