WW1 Aircraft Modeling > Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling
Hand Carved Wooden Props
lcarroll:
Friends,
I commited to providing a "How To" thread on this topic last week. I started yesterday, spent over an hour composing the bulk of the article and then lost it all when the "Web Page Expired" monster struck. Thus I'll try again however will submit it in smaller parts; let's see how that works!?
GENERAL:
I started using this technique 10 or more years ago to add realism to my projects, my hand painted versions didn't measure up and I was not aware of the Art Pencil or oil wood graining techniques others have perfected. The examples I've seen here are stunning to say the least, particularly the pencilled versions and that technique is one I intend to experiment with in future.
I've used hand carved propellers in both 1:48 and 1:32 Scales, I believe 1:72 Scale would work as well as long as the thickness of the layers is adjusted to fit the Scale Effect.
The technique I use is mostly sanding vs. carving; I keep carving to a minimum as the object is small and easily ruined by an inadvertant deep cut or split.
TOOLS:
An oscillating drum sander works well for the initial work followed by miniature sanding drums and shaper bits in a Dremel type of hand tool. The Dremel will work fine if you don't have or don't want to invest in a small drum sander. You'll need a small vice however "C" Clamps and a couple of bits of scrap wood to distribute pressure over your laminated piece for one of the two stock options will work fine. A drill (or drill bit in your Dremel), sanding sticks and papers, basic hobby knife with #11 blades, small saw for intial rough cutting, and small files are all the additional tools you will need. Most if not all are part of the average modellers' tool kit.
My drum sander is very basic; I use a wood block to provide a non-slip working surface and eliminate the danger of getting the stock or a finger (!?!) into the drum opening in the sander table.
Close up of the wood base clamped to the sander:
I have both the standard electrical and mini battery powered Dremels. The cordless model is used constantly in my builds, it's a very versitile tool and a great time saver when carefully used.
Some of the Dremel accesories I use:
The basic hand tools "staged" while making a prop for my Roden DR1.
Next to follow Material options and methods and the first steps in the process.
Cheers,
Lance
GAJouette:
Lance,
Excellent my old friend. I'll be on pins and needles until the next installment arrives. I noticed the package of wood sheets in the last photo,where do you get you supply?
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
lcarroll:
It worked! So here's a Part 2........................
MATERIALS:
I use two types of raw materials in building my props, mini-plywood and wood veneers.
The plywood stock I use is available in most Hobby Shops and is used by the Flying Model builders for engine and control mounts etc. My sheets are made by a company called Midwest, come in birch or poplar, and are in 8X12 Inch sheets and 1/8 inch in thickness. I have 3,4,5, and 6 layered sheets. Prices ranged from $3 to $6 per sheet (5-6 years ago) If I need more thickness I glue (Laminate) two thicknesses together and sand the rough stock to the dimension I want.
The second material option (now my preference) is to make my own laminated stock using assorted wood veneers.
I found a veneer sample pack at Lee Valley Tools for approximately $30 and it has enough stock for 40-50 props in my estimation.
First, the plywood version, rough cut stock "Blanks" as I call them. The only potential downside of the ply version is that some sheets have a very pronounced grain in the reversed alternate layers which when stained looks a little "off". Note the different number of laminations; you need to check your references carefully to match the number of layers or laminations.
Below is the Veneer sample pack followed by a 5 layer Blank of Light/dark veneers:
For the veneer option I use woodworking white glue, (Cabinet Workers quality preferred) to glue together the layers.
Once your prop is shaped and sanded you'll need some basic wood stain, I use oil based in the middle color ranges (Oak, Maple, or "Colonial") and then darken as required at the end with Tamiya Clear Yellow or Orange. The stain can be bought in the smallest size and will provide enough for a lifetime. Last, I apply a coat or three of clear urethene or clear model enamel sanding between coats until a smooth finish results, then the clear Tamiya product.
That concludes the material considerations, next the build process.
As an aside, don't be deterred by what appears to be a long complicated process. It's dead easy and not counting drying time for the finish I have completed a prop in approximately one and one-half hours. As the saying goes, "it ain't rocket science"!
Cheers,
Lance
GAJouette:
Lance ,
Thank you very much for this tutorial my friend. I'm thinking it's time for another LHS run today in search of plywood and veneer. They'll be wondering just what the Mad Modeler is up to now.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
lcarroll:
Greg (et al)
To answer your question the Veneer Pack I have was from Lee Valley Tools as just mentioned in Part 2. To elaborate a bit they are a North American Vendor and purchases can be made on-line. Just Google or search Lee Valley Tools. You don't want the heat activated "iron on" veneeers used commonly by woodworkers, raw veneer is what you need. I suspect any woodworking tool and supply specialty store would have similar products. There are a few samples included that are unsuitable (can't say I've ever seen bright green laminations on a prop!) however 90% of your purchase is suitable.
If there are any questions out there don't hesitate to ask; I'm no expert at this but have done enough things wrong in the learning process to at least provide an informed opinion!
Cheers,
Lance
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