Author Topic: Masking help needed for the "Junkers J1"..................  (Read 1499 times)

Offline olfogey

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Masking help needed for the "Junkers J1"..................
« on: December 24, 2013, 05:17:28 AM »
.........in looking over the instructions for the "Junkers J1", I think I have settled on the " 138/17 Flieger-Abteilung 17, 1918 " version.
I was not aware initially that all of the "Junkers J1" schemes called for two-tone paint jobs. This is not really an issue, but I DO need some pretty specific instructions for doing this, as in my modeling I never had an airbrush before, and never attempted two-tone with a "rattle can".
If someone could give a good "how-to" on masking, which color first, tips & tricks, etc. it would be GREATLY APPRECIATED  ;) ;)
I will be using "Tamiya" acrylic, and "Tamiya" masking tape, unless better is known(??)

Thanks guys............really doing my "homework" so I give this my "best go".............Jim J. -- "olfogey"

Offline uncletony

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Re: Masking help needed for the "Junkers J1"..................
« Reply #1 on: December 24, 2013, 06:11:24 AM »
jim: Kind of an opened ended question that could lead to some very long answers. I'll try to take a stab at this though, with some observations that maybe you will find useful.

1) in general, Tamiya acrylic enamel colors have what artists call very good "mass tone"  -- that is, covering power. Most colors will cover others in a single coat or two. That said, all things being equal, you probably want to work light to dark as less paint is better. Certain colors like bright red and yellow benefit from an undercoat of white, but this won't be an issue for your build.

2) Tamiya acrylic dries very quickly, but it takes longer to actually cure to its final hardness. Before it is fully cured the finish can be fragile, easily scraped etc. I always wait 24 - 48 hours before any kind of handling including masking, polishing, etc -- unless I am deliberating trying to scuff it up.

3) Tamiya tape can be cut to length and even into intricate shapes by sticking it to clean cutting mat and cutting with a sharp xacto knife. Dull blades will tend to tear it.

4) Tamiya tape isn't very sticky, and sometimes will seem to want to stick to everything but the model. You simply have to get used to this, and recognize that it's low tack is part of what makes it so useful. In addition, paint that is sprayed very wet will creep under the tape, spoiling your crisp lines, so learn to spray so the paint is not pooling wet on the surface. Burnishing the edges of your mask with a toothpick or something similar will help.

5) Soft edges can be created by masking with blobs of blu-tac or by elevating a cut out mask of paper etc with small rolls of tape. The further the mask is from the surface, the softer the resulting edge.

6) When in doubt: Experiment.  (On something other than your model.)

Offline gcn

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Re: Masking help needed for the "Junkers J1"..................
« Reply #2 on: December 24, 2013, 11:26:59 PM »
If it was me I'd go with Bo's point 5. Cut out some masks on paper and roll up little cigar shaped pieces of masking tape and attach it to the underside of the mask and then attach the mask to the wing.

If your using rattle cans warm the cans first in warm water, this improves the paint flow and spray from a 90 degree angle. This should make the edges soft and consistent.

Oh and lightest colour first.

Offline ALBATROS1234

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Re: Masking help needed for the "Junkers J1"..................
« Reply #3 on: December 25, 2013, 01:04:08 PM »
i was going to suggest tip 5 stated by bo. this is due to the junkers camo being softedged rather than hard edged. hardedge you just cut the tape masks and stick em on. you want it to look as though it was sprayed on without masking. imho this wont be easy with rattle can but i suppose if you are careful and remember to keep the angle of the can to the model consistant you can do it i'm sure. anything can be done it just depends on how hard or easy and how much time effort and patience you have. good luck.

Offline IvotB

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Re: Masking help needed for the "Junkers J1"..................
« Reply #4 on: December 25, 2013, 08:36:11 PM »
To elaborate a little bit on Bo's point 5 I have some pictures I made from a Curtiss CW 21 in 1:72, where I applied the blu-tac method. Now Blu-tac isn't sold in the Netherlands, but here we use a product called buddies, which are used to tack posters to a wall. I number of them together can be rolled into flexible parts:

Blu-tac rolls






Rest is masked with Tamiya tape:



After spraying this is the result. I should have let the earlier paint a little bit longer as the blu tac has left some marks



Brewster Buffalo B 339 en Curtiss CW21:



Differences between blu-tac method and direct masking:



Differences with free-hand airbrush (not with a rattle can). Some can achieve much better results with this then I can. I prefer the blu tac method:



Curtiss family:



Curtiss H75 Hawk, Curtiss CW 21, Curtiss P40 Warhawk. All KNIL


regards,
Ivo

mike in calif

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Re: Masking help needed for the "Junkers J1"..................
« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2014, 12:17:15 PM »
I did notice that the green and mauve are pretty much in equal proportions. One good thing, is that while the upper wing is a VERY firm fit, a little judicious block sanding will make the fit stay tight, but just a wee bit looser. Doing this kit a 2nd time, I'd spray the upper wing as a unit, off the kit, and with outer panels fit, but not glued. You will see that the lower wing pylon is not a precise fit, and some brisk sanding will help the fit of the lower wing a great deal. Again, I'd leave the outer portions unglued. When you get to the strut installation of the kit, being able to have access to the locations with be much easier; on completion you'll be able to just slide fit the outer panels. Notice the paint demarcation lines are firm, not soft.

Offline Modelnut

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Re: Masking help needed for the "Junkers J1"..................
« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2014, 03:03:06 AM »
Have you started her yet Jim? I hope to see it soon.that plane.appeals to me the more I look at it.

Offline IFF1418

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Re: Masking help needed for the "Junkers J1"..................
« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2014, 11:48:55 PM »
Hello Jim,

You asked the same questions I would have in a the near future. So thank you and thank you to all the people who gave their much appreciated advice!

Kind regards
Patrick

Offline olfogey

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Re: Masking help needed for the "Junkers J1"..................
« Reply #8 on: January 05, 2014, 03:32:44 AM »
Actually guys, I decided they were beyond my skill level with aged eyesight & arthritis of the hands, and decided to sell all three "WnW" kits I had.
Casting about now, looking for something I can do, but I'm a bit discouraged to tell the truth :(
Jim J. -- "olfogey"

mike in calif

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Re: Masking help needed for the "Junkers J1"..................
« Reply #9 on: January 14, 2014, 11:59:11 AM »
How about 1/16th? Good size, and an increasing number of kits. Barring that, one of the Hasgawa 1/8 kits. Very pricey, but to me, easily a years worth of work to build.