WNW Rumpler Early-ish version

[uncletony]

Looks great Dave...

Does anyone know if the circular compass mounting ring was painted black also?

I don't know the answer, but my sense is that the wings were painted prior to any fittings being added, so my hunch is that the mount would be a generic color like field grey. But I think you have some latitude here.

I don't remember seeing a compass at all on the Rumpler at the Deutsches Museum, but then again, there is much that is obviously wrong with that example. I'll look through my pix...

[Ernie]

Sorry I don't have an answer to your question, Dave.  I had to go back a few
times to your last picture to decide if you had really painted it with an airbrush.
To make soft edges like that with a brush is absolutely amazing!  I'm in awe, my friend!

Cheers,
Ernie

[coyotemagic]

You've done an astonishing job with the paint brush, Dave.  She's coming along beautifully.  I looked through the Datafile and the only decent photo of the compass that I could find is photo 45 on page 12.  I had to put my optivisor on, but it looks like the bezel is darker than the wing, while the fairing in front appears to be the same color as the wing.
Cheers,
Bud

[Dave in Dubai]

Thank you very much for your comments and ideas on the compass wing bezel.

The paint finish has all been airbrushed but the future coat was all brush painted on later.....this seems to give the most realistic finish in my opinion and there is less chance of the future coat pooling so much.

It takes several coats though.

Sorry if you thought the paint colours were all brush painted!

Here are the top wings.



The radiator is a push fit into the leading edge , but the actual unit requires some filling and careful sanding to remove the central seam. I will use some layers of Mr Surfacer 500 for this.

The WNW decals went on very easily, put the main crosses on first so as they are aligned with the aileron control horn/lever cut-outs, then you can apply the lower cross sections on the ailerons to ensure they align correctly.

This kit is a pleasure to build.

[Nigel Jackson]

Dave, you say that it's a pleasure to build ......

It's certainly a pleasure for us to watch you take us through it.

Best wishes
Nigel

[RAGIII]

The camo and finish look even better with the markings in place! Really impressive!!
RAGIII

[Ernie]

The wings look first rate, Dave.  I'm glad you cleared up my paint application
mistake.  I was beginning to think you have been dabbling in black magic!
Great job and I'm looking forward to the next stage.

Cheers,
Ernie

[pepperman42]

This is a great looking build of an elegant machine!!

Steve

[Dave in Dubai]

The fuselage crosses are applied next...

-I use tamiya tape to create lines around the fuselage leaving a small margin.
The decal is then placed within the frame created and once you are happy that the position is correct, I use a spectacle cleaning cloth to blot out the excess fluid.
Repeat for the cross on the opposite side.

When the decal has dried, remove the tape and the two crosses are in symmetrical locations on either side of the fuselage.

[Andi Little]

Neat trick Dave .......... simple is always best.

A couple of questions?? ............ Do I remember you saying that you managed to buy your "small" drill bits in bulk-ish: if so may I enquire where??

And secondly  - how do you guys get such a perfectly flat [matt] surface? - I bought both Testers and Alclad mattcoat and can get neither to look as good as I see in these and other pic's!! Enquiring minds would like to know!!!

Smashing job by the way.

[Dave in Dubai]

Thanks for the comments Andy, much appreciated!
I am watching your Morane "N" build with interest as I would really like to build the RFC version, probably as the famous version with the chap with the moustache sitting in the cockpit as seen from the front....I am sure you will have seen the photograph I mean?

Do you have the MS logos in brass from Toms Modelworks?

The drills:, in my Hannover build thread,  it was Lance who provided a link for the drill bits: drillbitsunlimited.com ( very kind and thanks Lance), but by the time I read it I had already ordered a set for a very reasonable price through Amazon would you believe?

The finish...

I know it doesn't look like it, but the fuselage colours you see with the decals applied are actually a glossy finish due to the coats of future applied. I find that it doesn't have to be a high gloss coat , providing you apply the decals using an application of future , whilst you are applying them.

This way when the decal dries there is no clear decal carrier film seen.

I was very nervous of trying this technique the first time I tried it, as I wasn't sure whether the future would react with the decal adhesive, or the water as you slide it from the decal backing paper.

Once the decal is applied you have a reasonable amount of time to position it correctly, and then blot out the excess.

Be aware though that when you apply the future it causes the previous layer of future to partially dissolve, and can cause dramatic streaks in your perfect finish.

However, fear nought as this will dry perfectly uniformly as before....you can hasten the process by carefully using warm air from a hairdryer if you are working in a dust-free environment, otherwise it is probably best just to let it dry naturally.

I used this technique on my Hannover with great results.

I then apply a further coat of future just to seal it all in.

The matt finish....I am airbrushing very light coats of Microscale mattcoat which is water soluable. You only need the lightest coat, diluted with a bit of water and as if by magic the whole finish goes completely matt.


I think I will be aiming for a semi-matt finish on the Rumpler, but will study the WNW photos to decide how the machine should look.
Fortunately they have provided a couple of clear pictures in different light conditions to help get an idea of the finish.

Hope this is of some help, and best wishes with the rest of your build.

Dave

[Dave in Dubai]

Here is the Rumpler from the other side....just starting to remove the tamiya tape here.

I picked up a couple of bottles of Mr Mark Softer and Setter whilst on a business trip to Osaka a few weeks ago.

I tried these products out just out of curiosity on the rudder decals.

They weren't really necessary for this build but were very useful for my Snipe project of which more at a later date...

They did give a very good painted on finish though...must be careful to use very small amounts of Softer as this effectively melts the decal onto the surface!

[Ernie]

Thank you for the information re: the decaling, Dave.  very interesting.
I like the bit about locating decals on both sides with the tape strips.  Great idea!
The Rumpler is looking wonderful.  I'm looking forward to seeing the wings on her.
Thanks for the updates.

Cheers,
Ernie

[RAGIII]

The fuselage crosses are applied next...

-I use tamiya tape to create lines around the fuselage leaving a small margin.
The decal is then placed within the frame created and once you are happy that the position is correct, I use a spectacle cleaning cloth to blot out the excess fluid.
Repeat for the cross on the opposite side.

When the decal has dried, remove the tape and the two crosses are in symmetrical locations on either side of the fuselage.

Dave, That is a simple trick to help me fix something I have always struggled with! Now I have no excuse for crosses not being symmetrical  Thanks for sharing!
RAGIII

[Dave in Dubai]

The wing radiator is now mounted on the upper wing, having been assembled.
The radiator central join seem was removed by wet or dry paper, then painted with Mr Surfacer500, sanded again and then airbrushed with the underside light blue colour and the light olive green on the top.
The filler cap was picked out with MrMetalcolor brass.

The radiator matrix was carefully bruss painted with Vallejo dark rubber, when diluted with water, the paint finds its way into all of the cooling holes, by capillary action.

There is some doubt from the photos in the instruction book as to whether the central wing attachment rib is blue or dark green on the upper surface. Looking at the period photo it is hard to tell. In the end I went with the dark green as I thought this would be the most logical choice, although I cannot conclusively say that this is correct.