Author Topic: Painting figures 101  (Read 2772 times)

Offline Repainted

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Re: Painting figures 101
« Reply #45 on: October 10, 2013, 10:41:12 PM »
The workbench looks fantastic Larsa with excellent wood grain, looking forward to seeing more.

Des.
Thanks Des
LarsaQ

Offline Repainted

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Re: Painting figures 101
« Reply #46 on: October 10, 2013, 10:45:25 PM »
Hi. The figure has stayed under the worklamp for an hour or so to get that dry its need to getting on. The first shadows are put in place around the nose, under the cheek and around the lower edge of the hat.
This color for the shadows are mixed from “flesh” 62, “wood” 110 and” WW1 purple” 107.
Nowadays you can’t get hold of tin No 107, it´s out of production and I just stashed up I pail of them long time ago. But no worry there my friend , you can use any wine colored red from Humbrols range. No 73 “wine” is the closest match I found and working just find.
Next thin coat of shadow will be mixed from the same color and just adding some tiny black to it. This second shadows will be placed within the first shadows and the edges will be blurred out with a moistened kolinsky brush carefully. The third and darkest shadows are just in “dots”. They´ll go in the corner of the eyes and under the cheek.


The trouser got the kaki paints on now and I used the same mix as the tunic but added little 74 “linnen” to the mix. This will give the trouser just a lighter tone than the tunic and hat.

Just for the picture I added a cut down Se5a from Roden, I don't know if I´ll use it but... ;D



Critics and comments are welcome
LarsaQ

Offline Ssasho0

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Re: Painting figures 101
« Reply #47 on: October 11, 2013, 07:40:35 AM »
Wonderful work Larsa! You make this to look easy.
Best  regards,
Sasho
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Offline RAGIII

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Re: Painting figures 101
« Reply #48 on: October 11, 2013, 08:52:46 AM »
Very well done as always Larsa! I guess I should have saved my OLD build of the Roden SE that fell to the floor. Could have used it like you are  :(
RAGIII
"A man has to know his limitations": Harry Callahan

"Don't slop it on" Lynda Geisler

Offline Nigel Goodson

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Re: Painting figures 101
« Reply #49 on: November 05, 2013, 02:28:11 PM »
Wow, just wow..
Thanks so much for walking us through that process...the result is incredible.
So what next? Lol, can't wait to see ...
Thanks again for sharing with us
"One must first overcome the inner schweinehund"
Manfred Von Richthofen

Offline Ernie

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Re: Painting figures 101
« Reply #50 on: November 05, 2013, 05:42:26 PM »
Wonderful work, Larsa. Our Mechanic friend is looking more and more
lifelike.  Well done!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
...What could possibly go wrong?

Offline Des

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Re: Painting figures 101
« Reply #51 on: November 05, 2013, 07:56:12 PM »
Thanks very much Larsa, your techniques are amazing, but you do make it look easy but I know it isn't, looking forward to seeing more.

Des.
Owner and Administrator of ww1aircraftmodels.com and forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com

Offline mgunns

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Re: Painting figures 101
« Reply #52 on: November 27, 2013, 03:04:32 AM »
Hello Larsa:

Thanks for sharing your techniques and methods for painting figures.  I will refer to this when I get to painting my figures.

Thanks again.

Best

Mark
Mark

We few, we happy few.....

Offline nuvolari

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Re: Painting figures 101
« Reply #53 on: May 19, 2014, 11:14:27 AM »
Hi,

I've been reading with intrest this topic.
To the skills shown here, I only can say, perfect.
But I would have written this reaction if there wasn't a "But".

I also use to paint with Humbrol enamel lakkers until recent, and there is nothing to bring into the quality, of this paint, if used correct.
Except that the drying time takes ages, and the fumes are bad for your health, and smell awful
But the modeling industrie hasn't stood still since, and the development of acrylics, has been developed to a top paint.
Most of us know the rich color range of Vallejo brand, but if we speak of a a special developed figure paint, personally, I think there goes nothing above the Andrea paint system.

The idea behind their color system is, that every basic color, is sold in a set of six basic shades.
Lets say you want to use red, up until now if you wanted to shade red, this was very difficult.
If you wanted to bring on a lighter shade, and you would add white, the color will go strait into a pink.
Mixing other colors in, would give you a different red.
Of course, before applying any color, always bring on a primer, I use a Vallejo mid grey primer
With the Andrea system you start with a basis red, the nice thing about acrylics, is that the drying time is as fast, as water will evaporate, so within a few minutes, you can over paint it with a new layer.
After the basic coat is applied, I start with bringing on the darkest shade, and work my way up to the lightest shade.
A good tip, if you want to know, where to apply the dark and licht shades, hold your figure under an overhead hanging lamp, this reveals all the shade parties, and if doubting when you are painting, you can use this trick at any time you like.
For detailing colors, I use Vallejo, and Vallejo and Andrea are perfectly mixable.
For those who want, always can applier oil colors, to put on washes, that is no problem.
But Andrea has also an ink wash set, that does the same trick, and again dries quicker, and doesn't smell.
There is a small difference in finish between the two brands, Andrea has a matt finish, while Vallejo is more gloss.
But a varnish finish will cover up all differences.
Other advantages of Vallejo and Andrea Acrylics are, that you never will see paintbrush marks, and mistakes can be very easily, and fast corrected

There is a good tutorial on Youtube, made out of six or seven episodes, just type in "Andrea color system", this is made by Michigan toy soldier's.

The down side is, that if you want the full color range, that's going to be a small investment.
But if used it wise on 1/32 figures or busts, this paint will last you a lifetime.
An other thing some people complain about, is that ones shade is used up, you can't buy this color separately, so in order to make use of the full range, you have to buy a new set.
But as I have mentioned there is enough paint in a set, to keep you going for several years, if used wise.

Here is an example of a semi finished 1914 Belgian soldier.
The figure now needs a matt varnish, some details will later get a satin or gloss finish, where ever needed.
When the figure is mounted on a small diorama, further weathering details like mud, will be made, by applying pigments.

I'm sorry for the bad photo quality as these are made with a snapshot camera.

Cheers,
Danny
« Last Edit: May 19, 2014, 11:29:55 AM by nuvolari »

Offline GHE

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Re: Painting figures 101
« Reply #54 on: October 23, 2014, 01:58:20 AM »
Meine Herren !

YES: I also pick out the paint from Humbrol cans and dilute them with petrol for cigarette lighters; especially when a
flat surface is wanted this works very good!

Gunther
LZeppelin rocks!

Offline Daryl_Huhtala

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Re: Painting figures 101
« Reply #55 on: February 09, 2018, 02:02:20 AM »
This seems like an excellent visual tutorial......all ruined by photobucket

I will have to look elsewhere  >:( :'(
SUMUS QUOD SUMUS