Woodgrain technique by Eric Larson

[dirk]

Hi Des,

thanks for posting this. Erics technique helped me to get that woodgrain effect on my LVG a few years ago on Hyperscale. For me this was one of the most essential topics in building WWI A/C.

Dirk

[WarrenD]

I like this method, very similar to others I've seen posted. However, I wonder if it will work for doing different panels with differing orientations such as on an Albatros without paint build up on the edges where you'd have it masked or taped?

Warren

[Ian from Doncaster]

However, I wonder if it will work for doing different panels with differing orientations....

Warren

Hi Warren, this is a WIP pic of my WNW LVG.  Simple answer to your question, yes, with careful brushing.  This was done with no masking between the panels. The wood would look better with some base colour and oil shading variation but that is another level for me to achieve.

I painted the graining on the panels first, where the graining would cross the panel edge.  Then followed with the grains parallel to the edges, which cleaned up any overruns from the first set.  Masking may be required however for such as an albatros with more adjoining panels.

[gcn]

My albatros had the same treatment and its fairly straightforward. If you can colour in whilst keeping within the lines you can manage it.

[lcarroll]

Ian,
    That's excellent wood graining; particularly convincing on the interior and it all comes together very well. It's going to be one very impressive model when complete. Nice work!
Cheers,
Lance

[rhallinger]

Ian and gcn:

Those are beautiful woodgrain finishes!  Very sharp models too--thanks for sharing them.  It's also nice to know that alternating grain direction on panels with oils is not a problem.   I have not yet faced my first woodgrain test, but they are waiting in the stash and it's only a matter of time.  I'll benefit from your experience!

Ian, is your LVG posted in Under Construction or Completed Models?  I must have missed it, and would like to see more photos.

gcn, that's one slick Albie--I love that scheme.  Do you have more photos posted somewhere on the Forum?  I missed this one too!  Must be advancing age.

Thanks guys!

Regards,

Bob

[skeeterbuck]

Des, I agree that the worst problem is the dust. No matter how hard you try some light dust is bound to get on the paint. 

The tip about using paper coffee filter is a great idea!

One the plus side, the oil paint is very forgiving. If you not happy with you first try, you can easily clean it off and start over. The slow drying of the oil paint allows you plenty of working time. I work in 1/48 and don't think I need the additional fine details like "knots' etc. I looking for the overall tint of the paint to convey the "wood look". 

[Ian from Doncaster]

Here is a link to my LVG build log, as posted on another forum:

http://www.greatwaraviation.com/forum/index.php/topic,1580.msg18216.html#msg18216

and the finished model:

http://www.greatwaraviation.com/forum/index.php/topic,2245.msg26759.html#msg26759

[Rizzo]

I'm going to give this method a try on my next kit, so could someone give me advice about what varnish to use over the oil paint please?

I'm guessing that acrylic varnish over the oils could cause some problems, or is this not the case?

[Ian from Doncaster]

Hi Rizzo, over the oils I used Future/Klear, thinly brushed on in several coats.  This can also be tinted with a bit of paint (I use acrylics) to add some depth and variation to the wood effect.

It is important however to let the oils dry thoroughly, which can range from 2-3 days to well over a week depending on atmospheric conditions.

[Rizzo]

Thanks Ian, I'll give that a go then

[jknaus]

Great tutorial. I basically do the same thing except I have never mixed the oil paints. I will definitely have to try that. If I could add a couple of suggestions that might help some. If you put the oil paint on a piece of paper (I use recipe cards) it will wick out the linseed oil. After about 5 minutes you can start using the paint or transfer it to a palette and use. My oils usually are dry by the next day. I do this on my figure painting also. If you want to speed up the drying more get a cheap slow cooker / crock pot. Put some cardboard  from a shipping box in and place your part on that. Then put the lid on canted so there is air flow. Set it to low heat and wait a couple of hours. The paint should be dry. Again I do this with figures. I found the cardboard protects the piece from direct contact and melting and the low heat are just right. Dont put the lid on solid though or you will get melting and warping.
Thanks for the tips and I hope I could help some in return.
James 

[Michael Scarborough]

Here's another possibility: as pointed out, one of the problems with masking the individual panels is the inevitable build up of paint against the making tape. While it won't completely solve this problem, using super thin tape will go along way in reducing the build up.
3M makes adhesive tape that comes in a green box and is called Magic Tape. It's been around for years but will really help reduce the paint build up at the seams.

http://www.staples-3p.com/s7/is/image/Staples/s0099112_sc7?$splssku$

Cheers,
Michael

[Ron@redondo]

Hello Everyone
I have a question about using Tamiya clear over Winsor & Newton oil paint that I used for wood grain. I have finished using the oil paint for wood grain, on WNW Albatros. Now dry completely. Can I spray Tamiya over oil paint?

[lcarroll]

Ron,
    I spray Tamiya Clear Orange or Clear Yellow over Winsor Newton wood grain done on a Tamiya wood mix base and it works just fine.
Cheers,
Lance