How Do You Use Elastic Thread For Rigging?

[Chris Johnson]

Having just read Lindsay's posting about picking up elastic thread for a song, it's got me wondering how best to employ it for rigging. I can see some possibilities for it on a DH2 or Fee where you don't want to warp the tail booms by the lines being too taut.

I currently use monofilament and double thread it through 0.5 mm brass tubing turnbuckles. I'm able to double thread it because of the diameter of the line and perhaps most importantly, it's stiff enough to push through the tubing. I can't imagine that the elastic thread would be stiff enough to double thread.

How do you fellows secure it in place? Do you drill completely through a structure, thread it through, super glue it, trim off the excess, and touch up the paint? Alternatively, do you use eyelets, slide a piece of tubing onto the line, glue the line in place on the eyelet and then slide the tubing into place?

Or is there a better way to employ it?

Cheers,

Chris

[Rizzo]

I've only used EZ line, but it's very similar to use I'd think? I certainly found it impossible to double thread, unless using an oversized tube for the turnbuckle.

I first use a small length of wire to attach the brass tube into the plastic (using resin glue), but make sure that the wire only reaches half way through the tube. This then gives a turnbuckle that is held in place but can still be angled correctly when the wings are attached in place later on.

Adding the EZ line is then simply a case of adding a drop of CA glue into the open end of the turnbuckle, and pushing the thread into it (holding it for 10 seconds of so.. however long needed for the CA glue to grip). I find that EZ line works best when you use the minimum tension you can get away with.

[gcn]

Chris

As you know I've used knit in elastic recently and I employ the same method of rigging as I would using fishing line., which is the same method you describe.

It is trickier than monofilament primarily because of its flexibility and secondly because of its width but it will double back through a 0.3mm ID tube.

The elastic is not a precision product and its width can vary quite considerably.
Choose a thinner section and cut at an angle.
Thread through tube, thread through eyelet.
Pull a section of elastic tight between thumb and forefinger. Your tube needs to be in the middle of this tight section.
This makes the elastic thinner giving you enough room to thread through the tube again.

I use extra thin CA to secure, which is almost instant.

[Ian from Doncaster]

Alternatively, do you use eyelets, slide a piece of tubing onto the line, glue the line in place on the eyelet and then slide the tubing into place?


Cheers,

Chris

I have done that with EZ Line, and also just slipped it through the eyelet, tied a little knot secured with CA, then cut off the free end.  I did my Fee this way, and didn't bother with turnbuckle representation.  The elastic was straightforward to use, and because of the elasticity there were no deformation problems with the boom.  Also, I chose the night bomber version, mainly black, so the "white" elastic stands out clearly.

[LindsayT]

Having just read Lindsay's posting about picking up elastic thread for a song, it's got me wondering how best to employ it for rigging. 

Chris, it occurred to me after I posted that, that I didn't really know how to use it, either! I had understood that it was a full alternative to the representation of turnbuckles with mono and tube. That is, you don't even bother trying to represent the turnbuckles. You just glue the free end into the rigging attachment point, then slightly stretch to anchor in the opposite attach point.

Of course I've never done this, and hey, I didn't even know that WnW molds-in the rigging attach points until yesterday, so I'm not exactly a credible source!

So, long story short, I'm also interested in hearing how it's employed. Thanks for bringing it up.

LT

[Ian from Doncaster]

I had understood that it was a full alternative to the representation of turnbuckles with mono and tube. That is, you don't even bother trying to represent the turnbuckles. You just glue the free end into the rigging attachment point, then slightly stretch to anchor in the opposite attach point.



LT

That method is advised on the WNW site.  It works well as long as you drill out the pre-marked rigging locations to provide a stronger anchor point with CA.  It is much quicker than making turnbuckles, but it all depends on how accurate you want the model to be.

[Chris Johnson]

All good stuff appearing here!

Choose a thinner section and cut at an angle.
Thread through tube, thread through eyelet.
Pull a section of elastic tight between thumb and forefinger. Your tube needs to be in the middle of this tight section.
This makes the elastic thinner giving you enough room to thread through the tube again.

Ah, ha. So that's how it's done. I don't think I have the dexterity to manage that!

Cheers,

Chris

[gcn]

yeah you do. You only need a couple of inches to work with 

Hold one end with thumb, pull other end with tweezers, clamp with forefinger, drop tweezers.

Easy, although an optivisor or some sort of magnification is pretty much essential

[Chris Johnson]

Hold one end with thumb, pull other end with tweezers, clamp with forefinger, drop tweezers.

I'm pretty good at the dropping part already!

Cheers,

Chris

[Todd Holaday]

Hi.  I want to throw my two cents in because I've experimented and have a method I like now.  I've used both monofilament and the WNW elastic thread (both the black RAF and white German stuff).  My preference by far is the elastic.  Compared to monofiliment, the amount of stress or pull the elastic puts on the framework is very minimal, if any.   The elastic thread appears tight but when you touch the rigging it gives very easily. 

To attach I put a tiny drop of ca o the part I want the elastic to stick to, grab the end of the thread with tweezers, touch the end of the thread to the ca and wait a few seconds.  The ca is soaked up a bit by the thread and dries almost instantly, which is why you don't start with putting the ca on the thread (by the time you get it to the plastic the glue is dry.

I do all of this while holding my breath because my stupid hands are so shaky. 

[Chris Johnson]

Hi.  I want to throw my two cents in because I've experimented and have a method I like now.  I've used both monofilament and the WNW elastic thread (both the black RAF and white German stuff).  My preference by far is the elastic.  Compared to monofiliment, the amount of stress or pull the elastic puts on the framework is very minimal, if any.   The elastic thread appears tight but when you touch the rigging it gives very easily. 

All good grist for the mill in making an informed decision.

Cheers,

Chris

[IvotB]

I don't have much experience with rigging. I used Des' method as explained on the site. I used EZ line, which is elastic, as follows. First I made long eyelets with thin twisted copper around a 3.5mm drill, then guided it through a 3mm long 0.6mm brass tube (I didn't have 0.5, so I used 0.6 instead) and opened the tube again by moving a 0.4mm drill bit through the tube. Then glued this assembly in the stabiliser, with the eyelet on top. Then I cut 4 2mm long 0.6mm brass tubes. I guided the EZ line through the tubes and on one side through an eyelet. Then I guided the end back again through the 2mm tube. It is a little bit fiddly, but if you try to put some tension on the line already in the tube, you create a little bit more room. Then when you succeed, just guide the tube to the eyelet and put a drop of CA with a clipped needle on the other end of the tube. Clip the remaining part and it is ok. Then on to the other side. If the EZ line is long enough there is no tension needed at all in guiding the line through the fin. the tube and the other eyelet and back again. After everything is at the correct location pull at the loose end and put some tension on the wire. Then the trick with the clipped needle again and this is ready.

You don't need much tension and when touching the wire it still is flexible, but will always return to the desired position.

I have no experience with the fishing line yet, but that seems to me more dangerous in harming your model.

regards,
Ivo

[andonio64]

Hallo Chris,
my personal experience (both with EZ line and SBM Wire) is that before rigging I study a possible unique - let's say - track as far as possible for the rigging line.
Then I use to pierce the plastic half way down and place eyelets at each bend of the track... well let me show it with a drawing:



Look at the full rigging of the external "cage" it is made by 2 lines only (green and yellow). I glue the line to the initial eyelet and let it pass through the eelets without glueing so that I can better tension it at each moment before closing the line glueing it to the last eyelet.

You also see the blue line between the inner struts, which is made by 2 different pieces of elastic line, glued at both the ends and trimmed with super tiny scissors.

I hope it helped!

Ciao

Antonio