Albatross C.V/17

[Skyhook]

Thanks!  That idea of the photogravure tool sounds great….must look into it more closely. Regarding the stretched sprue rigging, it indeed has many good points modellingwise. The only bad bit is that it breaks easily and does not bring along any real sturdiness to the model. I usually do the more exposed, long wires by using elastan/nylon (actually i have got (a donation from the SWMBO a pair of disgarded black stockings/tights! If you pull some threads out of them, they are very good for the purpose. You can make them as thin as you like. The only special thing is that you have to firstly make the attachement point by hardening the end of thread with superglue. Otherwise it becomes just a bunch of curly threads. When cured, I pull it tight and glue the other end to where it should go.

This albatros has no really exposed, long rigging wires, so this one is just sprue all over.

I will add proper photos of this Albatros to the Completed Models section a bit later, when the light outside is better.

Thanks to all, who took the time to follow this thread. I hope there’s some (old and) new ideas to try with future projects. Scratchbuilding is extremely satisfying, if it goes well….and even  if it doesn’t, it is a good  learning experience every time.

Here’s to Dave! …. i am sure he’s enjoying the modelling on the Other Side!



53D0A8C2-5DE3-4AA0-8E9E-A901F030C878 by Amiga Hassel, on Flickr

[PrzemoL]

Very fine.
As for rigging in small scale I also use elastic thread bundle from black stockings. But I pass the whole length through a drop of plastic cement between the fingers to get the monofilament all along, not just at the mounting end.

[NigelR]

Thanks!  That idea of the photogravure tool sounds great….must look into it more closely. 53D0A8C2-5DE3-4AA0-8E9E-A901F030C878 by

The original tool I have was marketed by Historex in the 1970s and it's ideal for the job because it has a long thin scribing needle with a curved tip that is easy to get between rigging wires on a 1/72 plane. However, it's no longer available and the modern pyrogravure tools all seem to have quite a thick shaft with short interchangeable tips which will be a pain to use on 1/72 aircraft. Some of the figure modellers are using a 3D finishing tool like this one: https://www.123-3d.co.uk/Modifi3D-Pro-repair-modification-tool-MODIFI3DPRO-i4425-t19450.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwl6-3BhBWEiwApN6_kmw1PWnqvs8ZjCIFccYy9YTWCd-NzfEzdvU27wyOA0R9s5o15lXF0xoCz3sQAvD_BwE

However, it's not cheap so maybe stick with what you know.....

[macsporran]

Great result
Sandy

[Skyhook]

Thanks all for your extended interest!  I just added photos of the completed model to the Completed Models section. Here’s a few more…. For Dave!

ADEDC921-CA1A-447B-9213-01FC773E98CF

AA815E06-EF42-4C61-9C56-9B3E55B60B98

83F231E4-290A-4EE2-8ADA-EEF1E670F13C

Cheers, Skyhook

[RAGIII]

I enjoyed following your processes on your build! The results are amazing. Had I not watched the build I would think this was a Modern injection kit! Terrific Tribute build!!
RAGIII

[Dirigible-Al]

I have enjoyed it too. Well done for a remarkable job.
Alan.

[Flamingo]

Extremely nice model and best "infotainement"!
Remember someone suggested incense sticks for tightening sprue rigging, and he said sandal wood works best. 
Best whishes Joachim

[Vickers]

I commented on your other topic, but thought I'd chime in here to say just how impressive this project has been. I'll have to re-read it in the event I ever challenge myself in some similar fashion. Just stellar, Skyhook.

[lcarroll]

Nicely done and a fitting tribute, congratulations on a beautiful Build!
Cheers,
Lance

[torbiorn]

I wanted to try using acetate for covering wings, since it has obvious benefits in that you can just overlay it on teg drawings. I’m having problems finding a glue that bonds it to styrene though. What kind of contact glue did you use, if I may ask?

[Skyhook]

I wanted to try using acetate for covering wings, since it has obvious benefits in that you can just overlay it on teg drawings. I’m having problems finding a glue that bonds it to styrene though. What kind of contact glue did you use, if I may ask?

In this case it was a brand called Bison. But usually I have used just any brands that have been available in markets. It is important that it is not anything water soluble…if it is thinner soluble, you know you are good. New glue works best, when it is most liquid. Seems that contact glues have a short shelf life after opening. They soon become uneven and difficult to spread evenly…some thinner will of course help somewhat.  the Bostik brand has always worked fine too. They have several types of contact glue, for wood, plastic, leather and so on.

Cheers, Skyhook