Wingnut Wings WNW Roland C.IIa "White 2", Schusta 6

[rhwinter]

Blown away once more!

[Rookie]

You are posting updates faster than I can read Bertl...

Beautiful work on the propeller and the instrument dial. I am certainly going to steal your method of attaching the glass with Vallejo acrylic water texture.

Great cockpit details, makes my jaw drop over and over again.

Willem

[NigelR]

This is all fabulous work, very inspiring.

The exact name of the colored pencils I use is "SV Classic Colour" from Faber-Castell.
The pencils cost a maximum 1- 1.50 euros each.
In most cases, the four colors No.: 380 (walnut brown), No.: 399 (black), No.: 383 (light brown) and No.: 314 (orange) are enough for me to paint the propellers.
It is important that the surface MUST be primed matt, otherwise the colors will not adhere.

Thanks for this. I paint laminations by hand with oils which is very time consuming and requires a lot of correction as you go. I get good results IMO but it's too hard if you want to paint more than a few laminations or work on a four-bladed Wotan prop (as I tried recently). I had a quick attempt with coloured pencils and you have now shown me that I should try again with this technique because your results are stunning.

[KiwiZac]

Thank you so much for sharing your technique and pencils of choice, Bertl - I've made an entry in my cellphone's "Modelling tips" note so I can get some for myself! What beautiful results!

[NinetythirdLiberator]

Holy cow...the attention to detail is just lovely.  World Class!

Dan

[Umlaufmotor]

@all

Again, thank you very much for your comments.

I think there are many different ways to achieve a good result.
As I said, for my needs (as high quality as possible, close to the original with as little effort as possible), painting with colored pencils is best.

I didn't put much effort into the current propeller, I'm sure I could have done better - but I wanted to finish it as quickly as possible.
Finally, I sealed it with Tamiya semi-gloss-clear, added two three drops of Tamiya clear-orange and one drop of Tamiya smog.

I'm thinking about going over it again with a very thin coat of raw sienna or burnt sienna oil paint, but I'm actually happy with the result as it is now.
Let's see.

In the last picture you can see the names of the pencils again. I really like using the walnut brown 9201-177, which is also from Faber-Castell but not from the Classic Color line.
Unfortunately, it is no longer possible to tell which line the pencil is from, it has been sharpened too often and the lettering is no longer there.

But no matter which pens are used, always draw the lines from the center outwards towards the propeller tip (or vice versa, both are also possible), NEVER zig-zag or draw circles or similar.
Line by line next to each other - try it, the pens are cheap.

Don't forget the eraser, I also use one from Faber which I sharpen and then cut flat at the front like a screwdriver tip.
This makes it quick and easy to remove incorrectly drawn lines accurately.
But - don't erase too hard, otherwise the matt primer will be rubbed off - then the colors of the pencils will no longer adhere.













Servus
Bertl

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

[Umlaufmotor]

The first painting steps were also completed on the Orcarina exhaust.
I used Mr. Metalcolor "Dark Iron" for the first coat, then some "Iron", a little "Stainless" and heavily diluted Gunze Rust Red.
The metal polish colors were dabbed on with a very short-haired brush to get a somewhat used, stressed surface.
DO NOT POLISH THE PAINTED SURFACE!
The rust red was applied with an airbrush.

Unfortunately, the colors appear much brighter in the flash than they are in reality.

The thin rim at the top of the outlet was made from a plastic sprue, stretched over a burning candle.

Further painting steps will follow later.









Servus
Bertl

[uncarina]

Spectacular! Thank you for sharing your practices. Pencils and propellers, huge weathered exhausts, wood from oils, there’s so much I love about this modelling genre.

Cheers,  Tom

[Dutch522]

Wonderful thread! I have a wide range of colored pencils that I use both for modeling and my illustration & fine art work, and just for the benefit of those of us in the US I should add that I've never seen the Faber-Castell SV pencils on sale here in the States, although their "Polychromos" and "Goldfarber" lines are available at Dick Blick and probably other art-supply outlets. A good brand to try might be Prismacolor's "Premier", the "lead" has a very high pigment/binder ratio and they're available everywhere. Derwent is good too. Stay away from Crayola and the cheaper brands, as they're mostly binder with very little pigment, and generally much harder—besides, the price difference is negligible, as Bertl notes, the best-quality pencils are only about US$2 each.

One thing I'd stay away from for this application are the watercolor pencils like Derwent's "Inktense" and Faber-Castell's "Dürer" lines, as obviously they're soluble not only in water, but also alcohol-based clearcoats as well. They do have a lot of other uses in modeling and weathering, though.

Sorry to ramble on, but I'm a lifelong art-supply addict...

Dutch

[Umlaufmotor]

@Davos522
Dutch, a very good and interesting statement by an artist who (presumably) works with such pens all the time 

@all
You should also keep in mind how many propellers can be painted with these pens, it pays off even if a single pen would cost 5 euros.
But be careful with it, if such pens fall on the floor, the lead inside can break, and when sharpened, the broken piece usually hangs loose and thus unusable in the wooden sheathing.

Back to the propeller.
The painting with the pens is finished, the sealing with matt lacquer, clear orange and smog is done. I couldn't resist applying a wafer-thin layer of raw sienna and very little burnt sienna.
I am very happy with the result.
But, Judge for yourself:









As soon as the oil paint has dried, I'll seal it again with clear varnish and apply the Axial decals and again semi-gloss clear varnish.

Servus
Bertl

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

[uncarina]

Absolutely beautiful! And it must be so satisfying to create this yourself.

Cheers,  Tom

[KiwiZac]

Thank you for sharing your exhaust painting techniques Bertl, that is something I really need to learn for myself.

[Tim Mixon]

Indistinguishable from real wood!  That truly is amazing. 

[NigelR]

The combination of pencils and oils on the prop is perfection!

[Umlaufmotor]

Thank you very much, Tom, Zac, Tim and Nigel

Let's continue with the wheels, starting with the wheel covers.
First, all four covers are primed with Gunze Sailcolor.
Then a thin layer of chipping fluid, when that is dry again Sailcolor, but this time darkened with a little dark gray.
Then chipping with a little water and a hard brush.



It looks like this afterwards:



The outer covers are sprayed over with diluted Tamiya matt white.
The leather patches are painted with Gunze Rust Red.
The traces of grease that have escaped are pre-painted with highly diluted oil paintand traced with Gunze Oil Color.






Servus
Bertl