1:32nd scale Hanriot HD.1

[Flik63J]

Fantastic modelling and problem solving Mike. We are very lucky, given your rate of building, to have you acting as Guinea pig with these kits. Although these are clearly not ‘snap together’ kits, it is as you say frustrating to find these issues with such expensive purchases. I wonder how the CSM version will compare if Edgar gets it over the line.

It is easy to be tempted into grabbing all these wonderful kits coming on the market, but I wonder how many people have your skills. I hope not too many models end up on the ‘shelf of doom’!

David

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Fantastic modelling and problem solving Mike. We are very lucky, given your rate of building, to have you acting as Guinea pig with these kits. Although these are clearly not ‘snap together’ kits, it is as you say frustrating to find these issues with such expensive purchases. I wonder how the CSM version will compare if Edgar gets it over the line.

It is easy to be tempted into grabbing all these wonderful kits coming on the market, but I wonder how many people have your skills. I hope not too many models end up on the ‘shelf of doom’!

David

Hi David,
I think given CSM's track record of kit accuracy and build quality, that kit would be a better option for the less experienced modeler,

Mike

[PrzemoL]

Yes, Lukgraph models... but you are truly cruising over all the problems.

[jeroen_R90S]

Just released, now building it already > looks good, too! 

One question though... I recently purchased the LeRhone from Lukgraph, but (other than the printlines that need cleaning op...) I've found the fit of the cilinders into the crankcase really tight... did yo modify something for a better fit, or should I simply press them harder?
The printed stuff is really brittle, so I'm not all that keen to apply more pressure...
I've kind of avoided the construction of the engine so far

Any tips, yes-do or no-do-nots?

Thanks in advance!

Jeroen

Hi Jeroen,
I agree and yes the cylinders are difficult to just insert into their recesses in the engine block
I point marked the centre of each cylinder recess and then drilled them out to the internal edges of the recesses.
That made them easier to locate.
But as you say, the 3D prints are brittle so best to drill with increasing diameter drills,

Mike

Thanks Mike, I had kind of hoped it would only be my example -I'm not experienced with 3D printing, but I guess it would be possible to print this so it would fit together, if not a bit loose?
Not meant as criticism, but my idea for making sure they are aligned would be to use square mounting holes so they are always aligned, too.

Sharp work so far -I'm off to the drill bits...

Jeroen

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
The upper wing had a dihedral angle of 3 degrees, the lower wing was horizontal.
Test fitting the upper wing revealed that the cabane side support struts were too short.
The interplane struts fitted correctly.
Therefore I removed the two rod support lugs on the 3D printed cabane strut assembly.
I then drilled and inserted 0.4 mm diameter rod into the top bar to give the required wing half separation.
This allowed the upper wing to be slightly lower and rest on the cabane top bar.
The upper wing test fit after this was correct,

Mike 



 

[PrzemoL]

Lovely. Fine problem solving. And Łukasz seems to enjoy posing such riddles to us 

[Borsos]

Nice progress on the Hanriot kit that also tempts me. I am very curious how yours will look like. Leaving the shortcomings of the strut’s length aside, this kit seems to be rather pretty.
Andreas

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
The decal sheet supplied in the kit covers all of the schemes.
However, the individual decals are printed as part of the entire carrier film on the sheet.
As such carrier film will probably show around the applied decal.
Therefore, each decal will probably have to be cut out as close as possible to the edges of the decal, before applying to the model.
Also, some of the decals seem to be slightly semi-translucent, meaning the painted colours underneath will show through the decals once applied.
This is not good for a kit of this price, especially considering different painted colour schemes and the intricate shapes of the various decals.
'Cartograph' decals these are certainly not.

Anyway, the basic French five colour camouflage scheme has been applied.
'Tamiya' acrylics used were:
Beige - Desert Yellow (XF59)
Light Green - Olive Green (XF58)
Dark Green - Dark Green 2 (XF70)/NATO Black (XF69)
Chestnut Brown - Flat Brown (XF10)
Black - NATO Black (XF69)
Undersides 'Alclad' Duraluminium (ALC102) oversprayed with 'Tamiya' Light Blue (XF23).






Mike

[NigelR]

Excellent engineering and problem solving on what is clearly another challenging kit. It looks like the end result will be worth the effort........

Also, the decals are semi-translucent, meaning the painted colours underneath will show through the decals once applied.
This is not good for a kit of this price, especially considering different painted colour schemes and the intricate shapes of the various decals.

The decals in the Oeffag kits suffer from the same problem. It's very poor given the price point of the kits. It's harder to overcome issues with decals IMO, especially for complex markings, than deficiencies with the kit. Unless of course you have a mask cutter........

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi Nigel,
I agree.
As for the decals being discarded in favour of cutting masks and airbrushing the markings.
I do have a Cricut Air 2 cutter, which is good for most mask cutting.
However, to cut small and intricate mask is in most cases beyond its capability.
I understand cutters such as the Silhouette range of cutters are better suited to finer and small cutting,

Mike

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
I've applied the required decals for this particular aircraft.
I found that as long as the decals are applied over a single colour, they do cover the painted surface under the decals.
However, the lighter coloured decals, especially the white colour, do show the painted surface through the decal.
This is more evident where light coloured decals are applied over contrasting coloured paints.
I've airbrushed a clear coat over the decals to seal and protect them during handling.
They will be airbrushed again later in the build during the weathering phase.

As the camouflage scheme is French, I painted the top of the tailplane and elevator with a base coat of 'Tamiya' Medium Blue (XF18).

The engine and engine cowl have also been fitted.
I found that the engine propeller shaft is not long enough to clear the engine cowl to locate the propeller.
So that's another problem to be sorted out,

Mike

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
The propeller shaft on the engine is too short to allow the propeller to be fitted and be clear of the front of the engine cowl.
Therefore, I cat away the propeller shaft from the engine.
Using as a guide, the mark left from the shaft, I gradually drilled into the engine up to a size of 1.4 mm diameter.
A length of 1.4 mm diameter Brass tube was cut and secured into the propeller locating hole, using CA adhesive.
This allows the propeller shaft to be fitted into the engine with the propeller clear of the engine cowl,

Mike

[Tim Mixon]

Brilliant paintwork Mike. I like your choice of colors for the French five color scheme. 

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Brilliant paintwork Mike. I like your choice of colors for the French five color scheme.

Hi Tim,
Actually the greens are not quite right.
However, I'd already applied the decals before I found out,
Hey-Ho,

Mike

[Dutch522]

Nice save on the propshaft, Mike. And that camo is gorgeous.

Just out of curiosity, do you have any idea what you'd use for the greens were you to do it over, instead of the XF-58 and your XF70+black mix?

Dutch