1/24 Spitfire Mk Ia Airfix 1970 boxing

[RichieW]

Some scarily brilliant work and a huge amount knowledge you are pouring into this project. It's going to be so beautiful!

Richie

[uncletony]

Some scarily brilliant work and a huge amount knowledge you are pouring into this project. It's going to be so beautiful!

Richie

Thanks Richie

Trial assembly -- learned a few things! but rudder bar and elevator control column both are functional...

[lone modeller]

It is simply amazing what can be achieved with this 3D printing technology: provided that one has the time, patience and skill to use it!

Another wonderful, (and mind blowing), update!

Stephen.

[kensar]

Great detail, but how are you going to detail paint it?

[uncletony]

Great detail, but how are you going to detail paint it?

Have to figure out how to put it all together first. Once it’s worked out, I’ll remake a production version (these are low res, fast prints) to be painted before assembly per usual practice…

[uncletony]

a little more progress.

[KiwiZac]

(these are low res, fast prints)

you could've fooled me! Wow!

[AngryJazz]

Just keep getting impressed!

Also dont know how you get so perfect prints. My prints are usually not this clean. My latest print of a Vickers seat was not good enough, backrest was too soft/thin and the part was bulging out.
I have a ABS / flex resin I mixed, but I think I have to try a better suited resin for this task 

[uncletony]

I have a ABS / flex resin I mixed, but I think I have to try a better suited resin for this task 

ABS is probably not the best starting point for detail parts (although should be strong!). My go-to is Phrozen Aqua 8K mixed with Siraya Tenacious at 9:1. Beyond that it's usually a matter of getting exposure and lift timing right. A good test model helps. Ameralabs has a great calibration test .stl file you can grab for free: https://ameralabs.com/blog/3d-printer-calibration-part/

[uncletony]

(these are low res, fast prints)

you could've fooled me! Wow!

yup, the stuff shown above was all done @ 50um layer height. Final versions will be printed at 20um, the prints just take much longer, but the layer lines and staircasing are virtually invisible.

[AngryJazz]

I have a ABS / flex resin I mixed, but I think I have to try a better suited resin for this task 

ABS is probably not the best starting point for detail parts (although should be strong!). My go-to is Phrozen Aqua 8K mixed with Siraya Tenacious at 9:1. Beyond that it's usually a matter of getting exposure and lift timing right. A good test model helps. Ameralabs has a great calibration test .stl file you can grab for free: https://ameralabs.com/blog/3d-printer-calibration-part/

Thank you Tony!
Yes its very strong! Need to be throwing it to break the part. Had some accidents with other resins being to brittle and snap in half.
 
I usually go with Cones of Calibration, they are very easy to read. Interesting with the lift timing - have to read more about it.
I have some Phrozen Aqua 4k, maybe I should retry the print. Its a fun learning experience.

In any case, thanks for the tips. I really enjoy following the build evolve 

[uncletony]

I usually go with Cones of Calibration, they are very easy to read. Interesting with the lift timing - have to read more about it.

Whatever works! The Ameralabs "town" test piece is free for the price of giving them an email address. So far I have not been bombarded with marketing spam from them. Anyway the little town test will really give your printer a workout -- if you can print all of the details on it successfully, you will know you have it locked in for making detail parts for your models.

[KiwiZac]

yup, the stuff shown above was all done @ 50um layer height. Final versions will be printed at 20um, the prints just take much longer, but the layer lines and staircasing are virtually invisible.

Incredible. Thanks for explaining!