Author Topic: WNW Albatros D.V/Albatros D.Va Triple - and one more Jasta14 Albatros D.II  (Read 66163 times)

Offline RAGIII

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Impressive detail and beautiful painting, Nothing new there  ;D The wing camo and wood fuselage really look superb together! I found the Roden D1 wing to be the Easiest attachment of an upper wing on any of their kits I have ever built, yours will look great when done for real. Mine just doesn't quite look as nice as yours  8)
RAGIII
"A man has to know his limitations": Harry Callahan

"Don't slop it on" Lynda Geisler

Online Umlaufmotor

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@uncletony
Many thanks Bo
The old Albatros is really fun to assemble at the moment.
I hope that this will continue until the final assembly.

@NigelR
Thank you Nigel.
As I said, I started the model in spring 2009 - a few small mistakes crept in at the time due to ignorance and usually can't be repaired afterwards.
My point is that there is a lot more detail work to be done on the Roden kit than what this build report shows, because the kit is definitely not bad.
The Roden/Encore Albatros D.II is still on my list - but that will take some time.

@RAGIII
Many thanks Rick.
I was pleasantly surprised at how well the camouflage colors of the wings harmonize with the wooden fuselage.
I hope you are right about the ?easiest wing assembly?, because I have been missing the four outer wing struts of this D.I (together with an AVIS Fokker E.V/D.VIII under construction) since moving house a few years ago.
I will therefore probably have to rebuild the struts. Maybe from brass tubes with the strut tool from Flugzeugwerke (Bo).

Servus
Bertl

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

Online Umlaufmotor

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A few more little things about the Roden Albatros D.I

BtW.
I have just visited the thread of Williams 1/144 Stahltaube - how can I write about "little things" on a 1/32 model?
The Albatros is ridiculously large compared to his little gem.

Well, OK, - more "things" on the D.I.
The "fasteners" on the engine cowling.
On the Roden model they are almost always in the wrong place compared to the original pictures.
So sand them down on the model and fill them.
New fasteners are attached in the correct position.
I use 0.3 mm Evergreen plastic rods for this.
Drill 0.3mm holes and insert 1mm long 0.3mm Evergreen rods into the holes. T
hese have about 0.5mm protrusion over the cowling.
Use flat tweezers to flatten the ends.
Then carefully file with fine sandpaper to a suitable length and semi-circular contour







Servus
Bertl

Offline NigelR

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 :o Those look pretty small to me......

Lovely work.

Online Umlaufmotor

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The four screws on the rocker arm housings have also been removed.
The 160hp Mercedes D.III engine has only 2 screw connections per rocker cover - diagonally offset, so be careful to use the correct position on the model.
The 180hp Mercedes D.IIIa engine has four (2 different!) screws per cover, but the rocker arms are located IN FRONT of the housings as seen in the direction of flight.

Remove the four screws from the model - they are wrong anyway - and drill two small holes diagonally (make sure they are in the correct position).
Resin screws from MasterClub are inserted into these holes.
That's it. Now it also looks like a D.III engine.



Servus
Bertl

Online Umlaufmotor

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:o Those look pretty small to me......

Lovely work.

 ;D

Online Umlaufmotor

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A further (small  8)  ) problem concerns the large one-piece canban strut on the D.I model.
On the original, this is covered with 2 relatively large aluminum plates on the upper part of the fuselage.
Due to its ?V? shape, there is no other way - otherwise two large openings would remain.

On the model, the strut is placed bluntly on the covers - it works, but doesn't look very convincing.
In addition, the two sheet metal covers are modeled rather crudely.
Roden also distributes far too many screws here.
However, either accept or change.

We change.

The two modeled covers are removed and two new covers are added.
I used 0.1 mm thick Evergreensheet for this.
Well, it took me two or three attempts before I was satisfied with the result.
In addition, the canban strut on the right-hand side was extended slightly - it is still glued on ?bluntly?, but the abrupt end that you would see is now visually more coherent because it disappears into the fuselage.
Difficult sentence structure, I hope the ?translator? can make a comprehensible sentence out of it.













Servus
Bertl

Online Umlaufmotor

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Now to the vents on the kit.
These were scraped open at the rear with a sharp and very pointed scalpel blade.
A good and really very simple trick to give the part significantly more depth, it simply looks more realistic on the model.
I got this tip from the German Flugzeug forum - Michi, a very good model builder and colleague had this idea.









Servus
Bertl


Online Umlaufmotor

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Under the air vents is quickly and easily painted with black oil paint.
Just apply adhesive tape, paint and you're done.
If something goes wrong when painting, the oil paint can be removed at any time with a paper towel or cotton stick.











Servus
Bertl

Online Umlaufmotor

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Post #217 and #218 was the cheapest way to create somewhat realistic vents.

However, it is far more realistic to create these vents WITH the peculiar opening on the model.
I started with this here on the Kissenberth Albatros D.V.



However, that is a bit more expensive and time-consuming, the vents on the model have to be removed (file, milling cutter, sandpaper, whatever), the openings on the model have to be opened with a drill and file and the material from the fuselage has to be milled a bit thinner from the back if possible.



The removed vents now have to be recreated using new parts.
In my opinion, a really good place for this is the 3D printed parts from Bo Monroe, or "Flugzeugwerke".



He is represented here in the forum.
Visit his website... great stuff there.
(I have no share in his company, the parts or the profits!)

I just want to show the other way, the slightly more expensive one.
However, these little parts help to make the model even more realistic.
...... and you save yourself the trouble of painting the back of the vents.

Here on the model, the vents are just resting on top, nothing is fixed yet, etc.







Servus
Bertl
« Last Edit: January 22, 2025, 04:58:20 AM by Umlaufmotor »

Online DaddyO

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Love the progress on these and I'm also a great believer in the old scrape out the vents ruse which, as you say, adds so much realism (The woodgrain is fabulous by the way)

Paul
There cannot be a crisis today, my schedule is full

Offline andonio64

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Wow those vents look great!

Will have a look into the Flugzeugwerke website, to see if there's interesting items for my present end future works

BTW Bertl I'm impressed by the perfect work you made in replacing the louvers!

Offline NigelR

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Thanks so much for posting all these step by step photos Bertl, they are really helpful.

Offline RAGIII

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I don't have a Jaw Dropping Emoji on My computer so I will just say WOW!
RAGIII
"A man has to know his limitations": Harry Callahan

"Don't slop it on" Lynda Geisler

Offline Dirigible-Al

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That was ingenious how you buried the cabane struts in the fuselage rather than glue them on top of it.
Alan.
I heard that it all started when a bloke called Archie Duke shot an ostrich 'cause he was hungry!