Morane-Saulnier Type "N", Special Hobby 1/32

[pepperman42]

Beautiful work!! Cant wait for the next instalment

Steve

[Umlaufmotor]

Thanks Steve, the next batch will follow. 

Servus
Bertl

[Umlaufmotor]

Now the paint chips are dampened with Tamiya "Smoke".
The complete engine cowling is fogged with "Smoke".
On the underside and on the right side, however, much stronger.
The color "Smoke" is very well suited for the representation of oil contamination.
But not too much of it, it should be applied glazed.











Servus
Bertl

[Umlaufmotor]

The engine cowling and the base of the fuselage paint are now complete.
But this is only the temporary state.
The model still looks a bit pale and lifeless.

Note the heavily thinned edge of the upper cowling.
This was originally almost 1mm thick.
Now it is only a few tenths of a millimeter.

Just a tip:
Wherever possible without compromising the strength of the material, mill the edges thinner. It looks much better from the scale effect and makes the model look more realistic.





Servus
Bertl

[Umlaufmotor]

On the type "N", the fabric covering on the left side of the fuselage could be opened.
This was also necessary to be able to repair the inner frames or steering cables in the event of damage by shelling.
Of course also to be able to remove the fabric cover if necessary.
A similar situation can be seen on other fabric-covered aircraft fuselages.
On the model this time, I made it extremely easy for myself to show the fabric seam.
The fabric strip at the seam was painted with "sail-color" and the rest was simply painted with colored pencils.
Works fine for the normal eye of the beholder ..... and after weathering, it even looks quite usable.









Servus
Bertl



Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

[Umlaufmotor]

Now it's time to add more castor oil to the fabric.
And again Tamiya "Smoke" does a good job here.





Servus
Bertl

[Umlaufmotor]

The cover image of the box shows a beautiful weathered Morane.
In particular, I like this brownish-beige shade exceptionally well and looks very convincing in my opinion.
Well, beige is the hull of my Morane, the shade "Radome" takes care of that.
I was thinking about it and tested several color combinations, but I achieved the best effect for my project by spraying the entire model several times with a very thin "Sand" color.
The color symbol on the back of the fuselage indicates which pilot flew this Morane in the original.

BTW:
I have already noticed that on the back of the fuselage there is still a (very) small stripe white primer on the edge of the red field, but I have not yet managed to fix it 









A really small fighter, this Morane-Saulnier Type "N".
Here in the picture still everything without weathering



Servus
Bertl

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

[bobs_buckles]

Jedi Master at work 

[pepperman42]

Wow, just wow!!

Steve

[kensar]

Your treatment of the cowling and fuselage results in some extraordinary visual effects of weathering and use.  Very realistic.
Excellent demonstrations of model building!

[davec]

Hi Bertl - amazing work!  I see that you installed your control cables prior to painting and have something covering them during the painting.  Could you explain what you are using?

Thanks!!!

Dave

[RAGIII]

No words come to mind that do your work justice!
RAGIII

[Umlaufmotor]

Many thanks to you, Bob, Steve, Kensar, Dave and Rick.

Sevus
Bertl

[Umlaufmotor]

Hi Bertl - amazing work!  I see that you installed your control cables prior to painting and have something covering them during the painting.  Could you explain what you are using?

Thanks!!!

Dave

@davec.
I used thin heat shrink tubing to do this.
I heated it up over a hot hair dryer and pulled it out to make it even thinner.

Servus
Bertl

[Umlaufmotor]

Time for a little update.
A look at the picture of the original cockpit shows a metal surround at the edge of the cockpit for stiffening.
These metal strips have holes lined up to save weight.
I didn't manage to fix the strips also on the sides, that would have had to happen in a much earlier stage of construction - unfortunately I missed that.
But for the attachment "on-top" it still worked.
I used 0.10mm Evergreen-Card, which were provided with 0.40 and 0.45mm holes in a row on the CNC machine.
In the end I decided to use the 0.45mm series.
Narrow strips were cut with a scalpel, painted and attached with superglue - this was a minor operation, the small Morane-model is very fragile and extremely little glue could be used.











Servus
Bertl




Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)