Doubled Landing/Flying Wires in 1/72nd

[WD]

Fellow Forumites,
                            I have some 1/72nd scale SPAD VII C.1 and SPAD XIII builds that I'd love to do, but I can't quite figure out how I'm going to effectively model the doubled, and faired, landing and flying wires short of doing some microscopic drilling, decal strips on the double wires, etc.

Have any of you done this to your satisfaction? I'd love to know.

WD

[RAGIII]

Fellow Forumites,
                            I have some 1/72nd scale SPAD VII C.1 and SPAD XIII builds that I'd love to do, but I can't quite figure out how I'm going to effectively model the doubled, and faired, landing and flying wires short of doing some microscopic drilling, decal strips on the double wires, etc.

Have any of you done this to your satisfaction? I'd love to know.

WD

I haven't done it in 1/72nd but...as I said in Stuarts thread I wonder if stretching Evergreen Styrene I Beam would come close in that scale?
RAGIII

PS: That is unless one is a Wizard and can drill holes through Tiny Struts and use Invisible thread wrapped in decal. I also wonder if stretched sprue glued closely together then filled with white glue would work in 1/72nd scale?

[IanB]

I always drill and thread for my bringing, including double wires. I haven't yet done any that had wooden spacers, but I have done some experiments to that end for my Ilya Muromets. I found that Mr Surfacer works quite nicely when applied with a brush, the surface tension fills the space well. It is a little brittle when dry but definitely works.

I hope that helps!

Ian

[RAGIII]

I always drill and thread for my bringing, including double wires. I haven't yet done any that had wooden spacers, but I have done some experiments to that end for my Ilya Muromets. I found that Mr Surfacer works quite nicely when applied with a brush, the surface tension fills the space well. It is a little brittle when dry but definitely works.

I hope that helps!

Ian

I will certainly agree that drilling and using thread( Invisible) would be the preferred Method. The issue with the SPAD fighters is that "H" strut. Three wires pass through the middle. This is tricky to do in 1/32nd scale as Ken noted in his Roden SPAD XIII build. If one can accomplish the drilling in 1/72nd they have My Undying admiration and Respect!
RAGIII

[Stuart Malone]

I'm going to have to do some experimenting with Rick's idea and I had the thought of doing two wires of lycra thread installed and taught, then PVA glue and if it looks decent, a coat of paint.

Stuart

[WD]

I always drill and thread for my bringing, including double wires. I haven't yet done any that had wooden spacers, but I have done some experiments to that end for my Ilya Muromets. I found that Mr Surfacer works quite nicely when applied with a brush, the surface tension fills the space well. It is a little brittle when dry but definitely works.

I hope that helps!

Ian

I will certainly agree that drilling and using thread( Invisible) would be the preferred Method. The issue with the SPAD fighters is that "H" strut. Three wires pass through the middle. This is tricky to do in 1/32nd scale as Ken noted in his Roden SPAD XIII build. If one can accomplish the drilling in 1/72nd they have My Undying admiration and Respect!
RAGIII

Rick,
       Yes!  The H strut is the bugga-bear. However, if memory serves, on the front and the back, you've got five wires passing through:
- 2 landing wires
- 2 flying wires
- 1 interplane support wire (at least that's how I was going to rig that part)

I want to say one our old friends on the WWI Modeling List years ago did the fairing with decal strip, and he said it was a royal pain, but looked good in the end. (Was it Paul Thompson?  I can't recall at this point.)

WD

[WD]

I'm going to have to do some experimenting with Rick's idea and I had the thought of doing two wires of lycra thread installed and taught, then PVA glue and if it looks decent, a coat of paint.

Stuart

That was my thought too Stuart, but my hurdle is getting all of those wires through that tiny joint without totally ruining the joint and having the H strut come apart on me in the meantime.

If I can slay that dragon, I'll build SPADS 'till the cows come home.

WD

[RAGIII]

I'm going to have to do some experimenting with Rick's idea and I had the thought of doing two wires of lycra thread installed and taught, then PVA glue and if it looks decent, a coat of paint.

Stuart

That was my thought too Stuart, but my hurdle is getting all of those wires through that tiny joint without totally ruining the joint and having the H strut come apart on me in the meantime.

If I can slay that dragon, I'll build SPADS 'till the cows come home.

WD

I took about 5 minutes to try an experiment with stretched sprue. I took 3 pieces and made a Sprue sandwich with the center piece being slightly shorter than the other two. With practice and figuring about half of ones efforts would fail, I think it has potential in 1/72nd for an easy solution. Sadly My Phone camera really doesn't capture the results very well. Very thin wire would probably also work. The size of the piece in the photo is 1mm width and 35mm length.
RAGIII

[WD]

Brilliant solution Rick. Now,  . . . how to get it through a tiny hole in that H strut.

WD

[RAGIII]

Brilliant solution Rick. Now,  . . . how to get it through a tiny hole in that H strut.

WD

I wasn't thinking of going through the strut with this solution. Just glue the ends to the center and the other end to the wing.One unit needed for fuselage to H strut and another from H strut to upper wing outer interplane strut. A little heat will eliminate any sag but with the short runs in 1/72nd there shouldn't be much sag!
RAGIII

PS: I also took a 1.5 mm width piece of extruded strut material and drilled one hole through. I didn't try Invisible thread but 2lb. test fishing line went through and the strut was not weakened. #80 drill bit was used. If one could use a #78 or  #79 on the kit strut I think two lines for the double wires would pass through. The single lines running from the cabanes to the lower outer interplane strut would have to be sprue or wire. I remember someone on the List advising Me to use a piece of card stock to keep the wires separate if running through one hole. Funny thing here is I now have some good ideas for My Next 1/32nd scale SPAD 
RAGIII

[WD]

Great idea Rick!  Only thing is: in 1/72nd, where those H struts join is about the size of a #80 drill bit.    S'ok, I have some smaller bits.

This really has me thinking. Dangerous that  . . .  I know. 

WD