Author Topic: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP  (Read 19512 times)

Offline Chris Johnson

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #15 on: April 24, 2012, 01:25:41 AM »
You wouldn't happen to have Steve Zaloga's Modeling US Armor of World War II would you Paddy? He has an all too short section within that details how he paints his faces. He's simplified the process considerably, although I would've preferred that he detail the whole procedure in photographs.

Cheers,

Chris
You can have it good; You can have it fast; you can have it cheap. Pick any two, but all three are impossible.

Offline phs Paddy

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #16 on: April 24, 2012, 04:40:41 AM »
Yes, I have that book by Zaloga. I think his approach and technique is fine for the level he wants to achieve but I prefer reaching a little further for more highlights and shadows. Sometimes I think one doesn’t realize the effect that a subtle push can have but if not there it’s noticed. How’s that for an old sod that’s a rank beginner and not even close to being in Steve Zaloga’s class? I do like his AFVs very much though.

Paddy

P.S. Thanks for the heads up on Zaloga's book. 
« Last Edit: April 24, 2012, 05:36:51 AM by phs Paddy »
In mathematics you don't understand things, you just get use to them. Johann von Neumann 1903-1957

Offline Chris Johnson

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #17 on: April 24, 2012, 08:20:53 AM »
Ah, ha! If you have that Zaloga book, I'm thinking that you've built an AFV or two in your time.

Cheers,

Chris
You can have it good; You can have it fast; you can have it cheap. Pick any two, but all three are impossible.

Offline Edo

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #18 on: April 24, 2012, 03:12:42 PM »
Hi Paddy,
Great start on the vignette!
May I ask you how did you mask the cross?
I mean, did you design the masks yourself? How did you do that? Do you have a "special" technique?
You see, I always wanted to mask and paint crosses and cockardes on my planes, but never set to it as I'm sure I'll spoil the model.... So how did you do that? How did you center the second mask?
Thank you for your help
Ciao
Edo

Offline keith_christie

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #19 on: April 24, 2012, 09:55:41 PM »
Thanks for the information Paddy I'll have to try and track one of these down, as I'm rather partial to a bit of figure painting now and again.

You may find this interesting?
http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4546

Best regards,

Keith
« Last Edit: April 24, 2012, 10:02:30 PM by keith_christie »

mike in calif

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #20 on: April 25, 2012, 01:43:29 AM »
Great idea! I may try that with a 120mm  Mv.R figgy from Model Cellar.

Offline phs Paddy

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #21 on: April 25, 2012, 03:22:51 AM »
Hi Paddy,
Great start on the vignette!
May I ask you how did you mask the cross?
I mean, did you design the masks yourself? How did you do that? Do you have a "special" technique?
You see, I always wanted to mask and paint crosses and cockardes on my planes, but never set to it as I'm sure I'll spoil the model.... So how did you do that? How did you center the second mask?
Thank you for your help
Ciao
Edo

Hello Edo,

I’ll be happy to describe the process I used to make the masks.

1. First I traced the outline of the area I wished to mask, in this case the rudder, onto tracing paper that you can see through. This outline became my register.

2. I then drew the image of the graphic I wished to reproduce on the tracing paper. The tracing paper would now allow me to flip it over to see the opposite side of the area to be masked without redrawing the image.

3. Tape the tracing paper with image to your drawing surface.

4. Now tape kitchen wax paper large enough to protect the drawing over your image.

5. Stick the painter’s masking tape, large to cover the outline of the rudder in this case, to the wax paper then tape the wax paper over your image.

The painters masking tape you use must be transparent enough to see the image underneath. The tape I used looks very much like Tamiya Tape and I can get it in rolls 1 and 7/8 inches wide. In my area it is carried by the Sherwin Williams paint stores and is called Shurtape Razor Edge Gold™ Painter’s Tape (see www.shurtape.com ).

6. Trace your graphic and in my case the rudder outline onto the masking tape. I used a drafting pencil. 

7. Remove the wax paper from you drawing with the masking tape still sticking to it and tape it to a good firm cutting surface. You want a razor sharp line when you cut through the masking material.

Going through this sequence of steps will save your drawing from being cut and therefore reusable for as many times as you like.

8. I use a new Excel #11 blade as my cutting tool and free hand the cuts.

9. Removed the mask from the wax paper and apply it to the rudder. You're now ready to paint.

The first mask I cut was the outline of the outside of the cross which was to be painted white. The second mask was the inside of the cross that was to be painted black.

After applying the masks in sequence and painting I was then ready to turn the drawing of the image over and begin the process for the opposite side of the rudder.

As you suspect registering the masks was the most difficult part of the process but sure doable. When I try this again though I will try to workout registration marks on the graphic that will be transferred to the masking material to match registration marks on the object to be painted.

Well Edo, hope I made my process clear and it is a help to you in the future. The process has room for improvement that’s for sure but it maybe a starting place for you. Finding transparent painter’s masking tape is the heart of the whole process.

If you give this a go let us know how it went and if I can answer any questions please feel free to ask.

See you later,
Paddy  :)   
« Last Edit: April 26, 2012, 12:28:52 PM by phs Paddy »
In mathematics you don't understand things, you just get use to them. Johann von Neumann 1903-1957

Offline phs Paddy

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #22 on: April 25, 2012, 03:29:18 AM »
Thanks for the information Paddy I'll have to try and track one of these down, as I'm rather partial to a bit of figure painting now and again.

You may find this interesting?
http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4546

Best regards,

Keith

Thank you Keith. That will make a very good reference and I'm sure I'll refer to it many times; now bookmarked. Good stuff sir.

All the best,
Paddy
« Last Edit: April 25, 2012, 03:33:59 AM by phs Paddy »
In mathematics you don't understand things, you just get use to them. Johann von Neumann 1903-1957

Offline phs Paddy

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #23 on: April 25, 2012, 03:32:22 AM »
Ah, ha! If you have that Zaloga book, I'm thinking that you've built an AFV or two in your time.

Cheers,

Chris

 ;D ;D ;D

Dabbled a bit but never finished one.

Paddy :)
In mathematics you don't understand things, you just get use to them. Johann von Neumann 1903-1957

Offline Chris Johnson

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #24 on: April 25, 2012, 03:37:17 AM »
Thanks Paddy, for that detailed explanation of how you do your masks. I'll be printing it out so I can study it at length to ensure that I understand the process completely. If not, I'll come a knockin' for clarification!  ;D

Cheers,

Chris
You can have it good; You can have it fast; you can have it cheap. Pick any two, but all three are impossible.

Offline phs Paddy

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #25 on: April 25, 2012, 10:06:39 AM »
I decided to start the figure’s painting with the face, and hands using Vallejo Panzer Aces # 341 Flesh Base, #342 Flesh Highlights and #343 Flesh Shadows. The first step then is to apply the first coat of the flesh base with a mix ratio of 1 paint to 1water. I always use distilled water to avoid any contaminates in the thinner. This will be allowed to dry at least three hours before I apply the second coat of flesh base or any other base color for that matter. After the initial base coat is dry it seems to be safe to proceed at much shorter intervals.

(The flesh base appears darker here than it is.)


This photo covers the basic needs during and after a session. I cover my mixing palette with aluminum foil to speed the cleaning process after all the cells have been used. I add the amount of water I wish to use for thinning with a dropper as the paint is dispensed in drops from the Vallejo bottles. I then use a brush for mixing and in this case I use the widest flat brush I could to apply the paint. At the end of the session I always wash my brushes in a canned soap making sure I form the tips for drying. Another point about brushes is have a set that you use for acrylics and another set for use with artist oils or enamels.

One of the most important things to remember is to shake the paint well. I always shake my paint at least 3 minutes before starting a session and a quick shake before adding more paint to the palette as I go along. I can’t emphasize the importance of this enough when using Vallejo acrylics.

(Base flesh color’s lighter tone is more accurate in this image.)


Now for those of you that are interested in the technique I’m going to use it can be found in the following magazine. It’s no longer in print but if you would like a great tutorial to start with then Mr. Mario Fuentes article is a good place to begin and would be worth a search. It’s a real keeper IMO.

 

Or you can check out the following website for the article at ……

http://www.vallejo.si/MCNavodila.html

If you’re new to figures and would like to learn using acrylics then this article will make it possible for you to produce a good painted figure first time out if you follow Mario’s direction. Now it doesn’t cover faces so you’re on your own there but you can find different approaches for that too on the web. In this project I’ll be winging it with faces but I’ll share my progress with you good or bad.  Fingers crossed and I hope we’ll have some success there.

There are many ways to paint figures but this is how I’m going to go about this project but I’m open to any suggestions, recommendations, and comments from you all as we go along. I'll be happy to answer any question I can with my limited experience. I’m new at this, this being my second figure, and probably have less knowledge about painting figures than many of you.
 
From here on out I’ll try not to be so windy, just paint and show pictures of my progress or failures.    ;D  ;D ;D

Paddy :)

P.S. The highlights and shadows of the face on the cover of the magazine points up some of what we want to do with a face. In my case, since the pilot wears goggles, I think I've dodged a bullet.  ;D ;D ;D
« Last Edit: April 25, 2012, 01:01:07 PM by phs Paddy »
In mathematics you don't understand things, you just get use to them. Johann von Neumann 1903-1957

mike in calif

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #26 on: April 25, 2012, 01:19:14 PM »
IIRC, that figgy won a gold in the masters at SCAHMS in Los Angeles. Something to shoot for.

Offline phs Paddy

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #27 on: April 25, 2012, 11:42:27 PM »
........ snip

You may find this interesting?
http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4546

Best regards,

Keith

Keith another very good spot for reference is TVAL’s Uniform section, leather coats, flying boots, helmet and goggles, etc. A great resource for authentic wear from the WWI period.

Paddy
In mathematics you don't understand things, you just get use to them. Johann von Neumann 1903-1957

Offline keith_christie

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #28 on: April 26, 2012, 01:36:53 AM »
Thanks Paddy,

Nice progress on the flesh base coats.

I am familiar with the TVAL website as I am using it for reference for the FE.2b build which I have just got under way.

Thanks again,
Best Regards

Keith

Offline Chris Johnson

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Re: R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP
« Reply #29 on: April 26, 2012, 02:35:57 AM »
I just gotta try these Vallejo paints. I have a set on hand but have never cracked a single bottle open yet. Thanks for that link to the painting article.

Cheers,

Chris
You can have it good; You can have it fast; you can have it cheap. Pick any two, but all three are impossible.