These ideas are pitched at at less experienced WWI modellers who want to make more realistic models. Most ideas apply more to older less detailed kits, especially the 1/72 kits from Revell and Airfix
1. Thin the trailing edges
If you only try one of these tips – this is the one! The goal is a knife-sharp edge, and generally under the wing is the best place to sand if you want to keep existing rib detail. Thick trailing edges are the biggest giveaway of a poorly finished WWI plane model. Same applies to fin and rudder edges. Sometimes fins and rudders are best replaced by plasticard when they are too thick.
2. Sand back wing ribs that are too prominent
Many kits, particularly the older ones, have wing ribs that are quite unrealistic. It’s a plane not a starving cow (prominent ribs)! Photos of the real ones show most wings that are nearly flat. Sometimes prominent ribs can completely destroy the realistic look you want eg. the Airfix Handley Page 0/400.
3. Thin edges of cowlings
Once again, aim for a knife-sharp edge, as thin as you can get.
4. Don’t paint the tyres black
Look at lots of photos of WWI aircraft and you will notice that most tyres were actually quite pale-coloured, especially on German planes. Early on, tires were white which is the natural colour of rubber, turning a pale grey in service. Some had zinc oxide added which produced a pinkish/beige colour. Later in WWI tire manufacturers began adding lamp black to the rubber recipe to enhance toughness and wearability, and this is best represented as a dark grey.
5. Refine the undercarriage
Many older kits come with simplified undercarriage fittings, like big rings, for fitting the axle. Cut these unrealistic parts away leaving a simple U. Some kits lack the spreader bar that connected the left & right undercarriage legs – note this is different to the axle which was often sprung with bungee cords. If your machine is to be displayed parked, check photos to see how toed-in the wheels are. Many are noticeably angled in at the top (particularly Sopwith Camels).
6. Correct major dimensional inaccuracy if it affects the look of the finished model
Some models suffer from MAJOR inaccuracies (eg. wheels and fuselage on the Revell 1/72 Morane Saulnier N, nacelle and tail booms on the DH2) that affect the way the finished model looks. Even for those modellers that aren’t too bothered by a few missing rivets or a few extra mm its worth checking references or doing a Google search on the Internet to see if surgery is required.
7. Add interior details which will be visible
Interior details are much more visible on WWI aircraft because there are no canopies. Its relatively easy to replace inaccurate seats, add longerons and stringers, put in a control column, instrument panel and seatbelts. There are now lovely photo-etched brass sets to do a variety of WWI seats and seat belts.
8. Add control horns to the flying surfaces
These can be represented by cutting up little triangles of brass from PE frets, using plastic rod or card, or using brass rod. Again these are quite prominent on the real aircraft and when rigged, add interesting detail. Check references to see where the control horns are fitted.
9. Add rigging and simulated turnbuckles
Rigging is vital to get the look of a WWI airplane. Some aircraft had an enormous number of wires with quite complex arrangements of control wires, flying wires and fuselage bracing (which can often be visible inside the cockpit). To get the rigging right you should check references and photos. Modellers use a variety of rigging materials such as heat stretched sprue, stainless steel wire, monofilament nylon, soft wire such as fuse wire (rolled straight between a hard surface and a ruler). PVA is a useful glue for attaching wire because it shrinks and goes clear as it dries, but for monofilament you will need to drill holes and use cyanoacrylate glue.
Turnbuckles were used to tighten bracing wires and again these are noticeable in good quality photos of WWI aircraft and will add interesting detail. Even in 1/72 scale representing turnbuckles is worthwhile and not difficult to do, using blobs of paint close to each end of the wires. In larger scales it is advisable to try modelling the turnbuckles themselves or buying photo-etched turnbuckle sets (eg as produced by Part in Poland).
10. Replace/upgrade poorly moulded engines, guns and propellers
A variety of after-market items are available for kits with poorly moulded engines and propellers (are Aeroclub items still available?) For German aircraft it is very worthwhile replacing plastic MG jackets with etched brass perforated jackets for a realistic effect, essential really for the larger scales but noticeable even in 1/72. Make sure you paint the inside of MG jackets before you roll and glue them – it is virtually impossible to do afterwards! I use a black permanent marker pen instead of paint to avoid losing detail on the very small MG jackets. The metal parts of German machine guns were painted in black enamel at the factory. If engines are relatively exposed it is worthwhile adding spark plug leads, rocker arms and valve springs.
11. Fitting the top wing on biplanes
This is often a stressful exercise even for modellers who make a lot of biplanes. Firstly paint, decal and clear-coat the top wing before you fit it to the struts. It will be much harder to do afterwards. Don’t try to glue all the struts at once. I attach the four centre section struts to the fuselage first, ensuring that the stagger and spacing are correct so that they match the holes in the top wing. When they are mostly dry glue the top wing on and use a jig to hold the top wing correctly in place while it dries – I use Lego blocks and small bits of Blu-Tac. Once the wing is set then you can add the remaining interplane struts.
12. Reposition ailerons, elevators and rudder
For the detail afflicted only: most aircraft modellers do this but the trick with WWI aircraft is to do a bit of research. On some aircraft a deflected aileron on one side was not matched by the opposite deflection on the other side! Sometimes bungee springs were used instead of a return cable. Sometimes both ailerons can sag slightly when standing on the ground. Don’t forget to model the control stick in the correct position if you reposition the ailerons.
Feel free to contribute more tips or comment on the lst above.
