Author Topic: 1/32 BE2c  (Read 31254 times)

Offline Rookie

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #195 on: March 11, 2023, 11:53:08 PM »


I actually dropped the model


Please don't do that again Richie  :o My heart skipped a best just reading that!

I agree about the translucency, but paper is so easy to damage (think glue, unwanted pokes with tools or fingers...).

I think it looks just fine as it is. You are making good progress and she looks beautiful already!

Willem

Offline lone modeller

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #196 on: March 12, 2023, 07:40:49 AM »
This looked really fine earlier today Richie: the translucent fuselage is the first that I have seen done convincingly in this scale so no need to use paper. The deatils that you have on this model are truly mind blowing: the windows, stitching, I could go on....

Certainly a winner in the making here.

Stephen.

Offline RichieW

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #197 on: March 14, 2023, 08:39:50 AM »


I actually dropped the model


Please don't do that again Richie  :o My heart skipped a best just reading that!

I agree about the translucency, but paper is so easy to damage (think glue, unwanted pokes with tools or fingers...).

I think it looks just fine as it is. You are making good progress and she looks beautiful already!

Willem

Thanks Willem, I'll do my best to avoid further accidental impact testing.

Yes the fragility of paper covering was the worry that stopped me from using it in the first place.

This looked really fine earlier today Richie: the translucent fuselage is the first that I have seen done convincingly in this scale so no need to use paper. The deatils that you have on this model are truly mind blowing: the windows, stitching, I could go on....

Certainly a winner in the making here.

Stephen.

Many thanks for your kind words of encouragement and advice on Saturday. I've been refinishing the underside as you suggested. It really was ugly! I've been playing around with making the wheels too, hopefully I shall be able to show a progress update in a week or two.

Richie

Offline kensar

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #198 on: March 14, 2023, 09:50:54 PM »
Really great work you're doing, Ritchie.  Scrambling up the scratchbuilding learning curve is what happens on every scratchbuild - they're all a different experience.
You'll be really proud of the final result, and rightly so.

Offline RichieW

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #199 on: March 19, 2023, 03:21:19 AM »
Really great work you're doing, Ritchie.  Scrambling up the scratchbuilding learning curve is what happens on every scratchbuild - they're all a different experience.
You'll be really proud of the final result, and rightly so.

Many thanks Ken. I'm actually happy that every scratchbuild is a different experience. I'm finding that new problems lead to new solutions and a more rewarding experience overall. Even if it can be hugely frustrating at times!

I have been pondering how to make the wheels, particularly the wheel covers all week.

 I faffed about a good deal with experiments involving styrene circles, wire and deep fill car primer but results were not pretty to say the least.

 

After much experimentation I cut circles with my new toy (DSPIAE circle cutter) and made a sandwhich of 3 discs. The inner disc is 17mm and the outers 18mm, this enables the tyre to be seated on the wheel. The great thing about this tool is that you can cut concentric circles but you can also use it to mark the centre of a circle.

 

20230317_125131 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

The tyre is just a rubber O ring.

 

For the conical wheel covers I cut discs from 0.2mm styrene with the centre marked. I calculated the circumference of the discs, divided by 19 and marked segments round the edge.

 
20230317_125617 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

With the centre marked it is easy to drill a 0.5mm hole (the same width as my pencil lead) and mark out the 'spokes' all starting from dead centre. The spokes don't show through to the edge of the wheel cover so a limiting line was marked on each. If I knew where my compass was this would have been much simpler.

 
20230317_132414 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

Cutting out one slice gives a 36 spoke wheel (18 each side)

 

20230317_212541 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

Continuity errors are down to the photos being from many failed attempts. :(

 

The spokes are the embossed with a ball point pen. Using a steel ruler the wheel cover is gently folded along each line to give a conical shape. The edges are then CA'd together and the join reinforced with tissue paper soaked in more CA glue.

 

After gluing to the main wheel body, a shot of primer and matt black we have wheels.

 20230318_142424 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

Work continues on the fuselage, the engine bearers were a little splayed so the nose is clamped in a vice until the araldite I glued a cross brace to goes off. Hopefully you can just about see the tiny brass punched rivets representing screw heads along the wood strip at the bottom of the fuselage. They should run around the outside of the lower surface too but I'm not entirely sure I can be bothered as they will never be seen. The tail fin is just sitting in place and will be glued once the serial number has been added.

 

20230318_145848 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

That about sums it up, many hours spent but most of it on failed attempts to make wheel covers. For me at least that would seem to sum up scratchbuilding. Many hours of experimentation, many failed attempts and finally a useable part. I could just have used wheels from a WNW kit to vac form the wheel covers but that just would not have been as rewarding!

 
Many thanks for reading, hopefully a more significant update soon.

 

Richie

 

Offline lone modeller

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #200 on: March 20, 2023, 09:35:11 AM »
Yor patience has been well rewarded Richie. Those wheel covers look very good indeed and as you write, much more satisfying than just vacuforming them. More ideas tried and new skills learned: that sums up scratch building for me.

Stephen.

Offline Tim Mixon

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #201 on: March 20, 2023, 12:01:54 PM »
You provide real inspiration!  What magnificent work you are doing here. Someday soon I’ll try my first total scratch build. I’ve already picked out the subject just need the Mojo to start working. In 1/72 of course!

Loving your work!
Tim

Offline DaveB

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #202 on: March 21, 2023, 07:54:41 PM »
Richie -

Good to see your model progressing nicely now - looking good with the fin attached and what amazing work on the wheels - your obviously on 'on a roll' now!!

Regards

Dave
As we say in fencing, what's the point!

Offline RichieW

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #203 on: March 22, 2023, 02:48:40 AM »
Many thanks for your kind comments Tim, Stephen and Dave .

Tim, I'm really excited to see what you have in mind. I've seen enough of your work to know it will be superb and I will look out for it.

With the wheels made it seemed sensible to get her on her feet so I mounted the undercarriage legs. This took most of Saturday morning, was the Devil's own job to do and I'm not convinced it's in good alignment.

The tail skid is very complicated as you can see from Jamo's photo;

BE2C tail skid - photo by James Fahey. by Richard Williams, on Flickr

Do check out his Smugmug sight, his reference photos are an incredible resource taken specially for modellers. Here is a link

https://jamesfahey.smugmug.com/

Many compromises were needed in order to make a structurally sound part. I abandoned the idea of using EZline for the bungee suspension and opted for 0.5mm brass rod instead. The wooden skid was whittled from a cocktail stick and the metal fittings simulated with paint.

 

The main support was made in the same way as the main undercarriage legs.
BE2c tail skid under construction by Richard Williams, on Flickr

1/32 BE2c tail skid by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 I'm really pleased with the result, it's a good enough representation of a tail skid. Certainly good enough for me.

 


 

 

Here she is up on her feet with the incomplete tail skid sitting in place.

 
Undercarriage fitted by Richard Williams, on Flickr

I went to the bench at 10 this morning and it has taken until now (4pm) to finish the tail skid.

 

Tail skid completed by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

The four supporting arms were made from copper tube which I chose over brass as it is easier to drill and bend without splitting.

 

I was a bit too absorbed to take progress pics but what I did was cut 4 lengths of tube and squash the ends. One end of each had a 0.5mm hole drilled and a short length of brass rod inserted. The front arms were then positioned in mounting holes in the fuselage via the brass pins which enabled me to bend them so they lined up. With these in position the process was repeated for the rear arms. It all sounds simple enough and it actually was but the alignment took hours to get right.  According to the extreme close up there is a bit of touching up to do but the Mk I eyeballs don't agree. I'll go with nature I think or I will never finish!

1/32 BE2c scratch build by Richard Williams, on Flickr

 

I've had a really enjoyable few days at the bench but that's me done for the week.

 

Thanks for dropping by, all criticisms, tips gratefully received

Richie
 

« Last Edit: March 22, 2023, 05:57:57 AM by RichieW »

Offline lone modeller

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #204 on: March 22, 2023, 05:05:25 AM »
Superb tailskid Richie. It should also be very strong, given the materials that you have used. I have found that in this scale the skid can be a weak part unless it is built from strong materials. Visually yours looks incredibly realistic too.

Stephen.

Offline KiwiZac

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #205 on: March 22, 2023, 05:52:25 AM »
Beautiful work Richie and a fantastic match for the real thing. Bravo!
Zac in NZ

Offline kensar

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #206 on: March 22, 2023, 10:08:15 PM »
Nice work on the tailskid.  It certainly conveys the complexity of the real thing.

Offline FAf

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #207 on: March 23, 2023, 12:47:54 AM »
This is really such a nice build log to follow! You bring us all along each and every step and discuss and explain your thoughts and choices at the same time - and on top of that it all looks incredible!

/Fredrik

Offline Rookie

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #208 on: March 26, 2023, 04:22:34 PM »
She looks real good, standing on her “legs” now Richie. That is a clever way to make the conic hubs.

The wheels look really good with the indents of the spokes showing and the tails skid looks very realistic.

Looking forward to seeing the wings take shape.

That’s a very nice tool for cutting discs by the way!

Willem

Offline RichieW

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Re: 1/32 BE2c
« Reply #209 on: April 01, 2023, 04:11:00 AM »
Thanks so much Zac, Stephen, Ken, Fredrik and Willem for your kind comments. Without the encouragement, advice and generous feedback of my fellow modellers I would probably have thrown the towel in on this build months ago!

Since the last update I have spent many, many hours on this but most of this time has been spent correcting numerous painting blunders and misfortunes. I added the roundels and serial numbers, a simple enough task I have done many times without problems but this time my masks bled and touching was required. One of the drawbacks of MRP paint is that you cannot brush paint touch ups. It is so solvent heavy that it quickly dissolves any paint layers and if you draw the brush along you end up with a horrible trench laden mess. Corrections were made by dabbing tiny drops of paint required one at a time with each layer being allowed to dry first. It took an entire day but I got an acceptable result in the end.

1/32 BE2c Scratchbuild by Richard Williams, on Flickr

The serial numbers were added with Letraset, one broke up and I decided to quickly touch it up with paint (not MRP) this in turn needed touching up and before I knew it I had to completely refinish one side. If only I had just removed the offending number and replaced it! I got there in the end and the model is still translucent.

1/32 BE2c scratchbuild. by Richard Williams, on Flickr

I also completely refinished the underside after my horrible first effort which was just awful!

BE2c 1/32 scratchbuild. by Richard Williams, on Flickr

At this point I was feeling miserable, exhausted and not very keen to continue with the build. Not surprising really. I had just spent two entire days in a tiny room filled with lacquer paint fumes and forgetten to open a window. That was probably the biggest mistake of all!

After a model free day and lots of fresh air I wanted to do something not involving paint so whittled a former from basswood for the engine nacelle. The first few attempts at vac forming were too thin and fragile despite using 1mm sheet. In the end I covered most of the holes in the forming table with coffee stirrers and got a useable part.

Engine nacelle by Richard Williams, on Flickr

Here it is in a coat of primer (sprayed outside) with the breather tube added from aluminium tube. I also whittled the lower blister from laminated styrene. I now feel rejuvenated after a relatively successful couple of days and will remember to open windows next time I use the airbrush!

20230331_162203 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

Thanks so much for reading, have a lovely weekend everybody

Richie