Eduard 1/48 Oeffag D.II conversion

[pepperman42]

Looks great. How are the decals working?

Steve

[coyotemagic]

Thanks, Steve.  Seems the decals are working out just fine.  Not as easy to use as I had thought when I ordered them.  Each panel is oversized and needs trimming once in place.  Kinda tricky with finished adjacent panels.  Also, went through a lot of #11 blades.  The blades need to be extremely sharp to avoid pulling the decal while cutting.  The decals are very thin and if you try to move them too much, they will split on you and will fold up on themselves if you're not careful.  They conform very nicely to compound shapes

Here's a comparison shot of my Oeffag 153 with the wood grain done in oils.  Looks pretty close.  I think the oils were just a bit easier.

On the advice of my esteemed coleagues, I'll be adding sworls to the metal panels.  This is a test piece I did using a silver Sharpie. 

This particular Sharpie is a bit old and worn.  I've been using it on my rigging.  I'll use a new one on the sworls.
Thanks for looking in.
Cheers,
Bud

[uncletony]

Woodgrain looks great.

[pepperman42]

Thanks for the update. I have some of them and will take your warning. Im thinking a #10 blade to "roll  trim" the excess might work.

Steve

[Checkers67]

Jewel churning sure is fun to watch Mr. Coyote Magic. The wood grain decals look great. Sounds like a headache placing them correctly. Nice work.
Steve

[coyotemagic]

Woodgrain looks great.

Thanks, Bo.  They're pretty good decals.

Thanks for the update. I have some of them and will take your warning. Im thinking a #10 blade to "roll  trim" the excess might work.

Steve

That might work even better, Steve.  Let me know how it goes when you use yours.

Jewel churning sure is fun to watch Mr. Coyote Magic. The wood grain decals look great. Sounds like a headache placing them correctly. Nice work.
Steve

Thank you, Steve!  Really not as bad as it sounds.  I'm just a whiner.
Cheers,
Bud

[Dal Gavan]

G'day, Bud.  You're not whining, mate, just stating a problem most of us have probably had when trying to trim decals.  Both the fuselages look good, but I think I'll stick with oils for now, now I'm confident I can get a reasonable wood-grain effect.  One day I'll try the decals, though.

Cheers.

Dal.

[Chris Johnson]

The Sharpie does a commendable job for the swirl effect. If I ever attempt to recreate the pattern myself, this is the route I'll follow too as it seems to me to offer a good deal of control.

I'm always struck by how you have no fear of trying new techniques in your modelling. I admire the way you push the envelope, as I tend to be much more conservative in nature. I'm always concerned that I'll end up ruining the model so I end up sticking to that which I know.

Cheers,

Chris

[coyotemagic]

G'day, Bud.  You're not whining, mate, just stating a problem most of us have probably had when trying to trim decals.  Both the fuselages look good, but I think I'll stick with oils for now, now I'm confident I can get a reasonable wood-grain effect.  One day I'll try the decals, though.

Cheers.

Dal.

Thanks, Dal!  I've got one or two projects that I want to use the Uschi/Ronny Bar decals on, a Karaya Albatros D.XI and maybe an Aviatik 30.27.  However, I'll most likely continue to use mostly oils.  It's so much easier and far more forgiving.
Cheers,
Bud

[coyotemagic]

The Sharpie does a commendable job for the swirl effect. If I ever attempt to recreate the pattern myself, this is the route I'll follow too as it seems to me to offer a good deal of control.

I'm always struck by how you have no fear of trying new techniques in your modelling. I admire the way you push the envelope, as I tend to be much more conservative in nature. I'm always concerned that I'll end up ruining the model so I end up sticking to that which I know.

Cheers,

Chris

Thanks, Chris!  My prefered method, one I used on my Sopwith Baby, would have been to first spray the metal panels black, use the Sharpie and then over-spray with buffable Metalizer aluminum, but I wasn't sure of the panel finish until after I had already sprayed the aluminum.  This is plan B.  As for my pushing the envelope, I never try anything on a model that I haven't first tried on a practice piece.  I'm not that brave.
Cheers,
Bud

[GAJouette]

  Bud,
What can I say other than awesome my old friend. Stunning works!
highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Happy New Year to You and Yours

[ALBATROS1234]

this is what ive been using for metallics, it is awesomely easy and looks better than anything else ive tryed.

http://essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html

it is also such a thin coating that all the details are preserved. an added benefit after you metallize something you dont have to clean the brush(i have a dedicated brush for each tone that model master has) which leaves a bit of the powder in the brush making it perfect for dry brushing other matallics. in other words after you do a gunmetal toned piece you take out your aluminum brush and dry brush it highlighting all the detail.

on my last eindecker i did a stainless base coat then did my swirls with thinned floaquil brite silver(which was a bit to much contrast) so i blended it out with the stainless metal pigment brush.

i havent painted metallics in 3 years, i use it on everthing except brass/bronze/copper toned metal cuz they dont sell those tones in buffing metallizer.

i recently bought a pack of sharpie metallics,gold/copper/silver and they are cooler than i expected. i will be using them in the future for certain things.

[coyotemagic]

  Bud,
What can I say other than awesome my old friend. Stunning works!
highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Happy New Year to You and Yours

Thank you, Gregory.  I always appreciate your kind support.
Cheers,
Bud

[coyotemagic]

this is what ive been using for metallics, it is awesomely easy and looks better than anything else ive tryed.

http://essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html

it is also such a thin coating that all the details are preserved. an added benefit after you metallize something you dont have to clean the brush(i have a dedicated brush for each tone that model master has) which leaves a bit of the powder in the brush making it perfect for dry brushing other matallics. in other words after you do a gunmetal toned piece you take out your aluminum brush and dry brush it highlighting all the detail.

on my last eindecker i did a stainless base coat then did my swirls with thinned floaquil brite silver(which was a bit to much contrast) so i blended it out with the stainless metal pigment brush.

i havent painted metallics in 3 years, i use it on everthing except brass/bronze/copper toned metal cuz they dont sell those tones in buffing metallizer.

i recently bought a pack of sharpie metallics,gold/copper/silver and they are cooler than i expected. i will be using them in the future for certain things.

Thanks for the excellent tip, Scott.  I'll have to use it on my next metal finish.  Let me know how the Sharpies work out for you.
Cheers,
Bud

[mgunns]

Hello Bud:

I am just getting back to this thread and you are doing a great job here.  Your comments and modeling tips are most helpful and duly appreciated.  I have used the wood grain decals and oils, not sure what I like the most.  My wood grain still needs tweaking so on the fuselages I use the decals.  I like the way your wood tones turned out, decals not withstanding, really looks nice.  Now.........if this was only offered in 1/32nd!  Maybe Roden?

Looking forward to more Bud.

Best

Mark