1/32nd FF33

[Umlaufmotor]

@Mike 'Sandbagger' Norris

Hello Mike,

Thank you very much for your profound explanation, your tips and hints for your resin building reports.
I will have a look at the PDF's one by one.
That will certainly help.
I know the way of production so far, also that conventional adhesives cannot be used.
But where I see problems - maybe I only "see" them and in reality there are none -, how are air 'blow' pits or bad, unsightly glue edges filled?
Which "putty" is best used for this purpose?
I have no problem to put more work into a resin kit than with a conventional model, the result must be right for me.
I am happy to invest more time in this.
I think the FF33 is such a model.
Although I would have preferred to see the "Wölfchen" version - but never mind, that's okay too.
Again, thank you very much for your explanations.

Servus
Bertl

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

[Mike Norris]

Hi Bertl,
Having built Lukgraph resin kits before, I don't think you'll encounter and real problems.
From my experience their moulding of resin parts are free of the surface imperfections found in other kits.
However, in the event you do find some:

Air 'blow' pits - these can be found where air bubbles in the resin burst as the resin sets and cause small holes/pits in the surface of the parts.
These usually can be filled and sanded smooth to blend with the surface of the part.
Normal modelling putty's will shrink slightly as they dry and set. For example along a join seam, where you'll see a fine crack along the joint.
Filling larger holes/pits can result in the surface of the putty sinking slightly as it sets.
This can be easily corrected by applying more putty.
However I tend to use one of two methods:
1. Model putty 'Perfect Plastic Putty' (Delux Materials) - this putty can be reactivated, even after it has dried and set, with slight moisture and can then smoothed over to refill any shrinkage.
2. CA adhesive (superglue) mixed with a small amount of talcom powder. The powder will add 'body' to the CA adhesive and stop it spreading.
This will dry and set fast and will not shrink. However, it sets hard and can prove difficult to sand away to blend it to the surface of the part, especially in areas that are difficult to access.

Warped parts can be straightened by either immersing in hot water then either pressing or manually flexing the part back into shape.
You can also use heat from a hair dryer or similar to 'relax' the resin part.
Once the part has cooled down it should retain its shape.

I haven't had a serious mis-mould (short shot) of a resin part but if I do it would depend how serious the defect was.
Small areas can be rebuilt by using two part epoxy clay, such as 'Milliput' then once set sanded to shape.
However, for large and obvious defects it would probably be best to contact the seller to arrange for a replacement part.

But as I said, knowing the quality of 'Lukgraph' models, I would doubt you would find any such problems,

Mike 

[RAGIII]

@Mike 'Sandbagger' Norris

Hello Mike,

Thank you very much for your profound explanation, your tips and hints for your resin building reports.
I will have a look at the PDF's one by one.
That will certainly help.
I know the way of production so far, also that conventional adhesives cannot be used.
But where I see problems - maybe I only "see" them and in reality there are none -, how are air 'blow' pits or bad, unsightly glue edges filled?
Which "putty" is best used for this purpose?
I have no problem to put more work into a resin kit than with a conventional model, the result must be right for me.
I am happy to invest more time in this.
I think the FF33 is such a model.
Although I would have preferred to see the "Wölfchen" version - but never mind, that's okay too.
Again, thank you very much for your explanations.

Servus
Bertl

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

Mike is giving you some Great Tips. That being said I have seen your work and Know Your Skill Level. I am confident that you will Do a Terrific job with Resin as you have done with your Plastic builds!
RAGIII

[PrzemoL]

The work at Lukgraph on this kit is progressing well. They have just announced that the preorders will start in March.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=2743014779345911&set=a.1464998240480911

[fredjocko]

If it is like their Baby it will be excellent.  My main regret is there is No F33E.... as I really want to make SMS Wolf's Wolfchen.

I have Lukgraph's 1/48 kit and it is a thing of beauty as well as their Sopwith kits. I'm with you I was hoping for the E as well. I have wanted to build the Wolfchen since I read the book. I was hoping WNW would have done it. I have the Techmod kit and the PE set waiting in the stash. I'm sure once I start it, a 1/32 kit will be available.

[Pup7309]

Hi all,
I looked on Facebook- and felt wow isn’t it nice to see a nice new WW1 kit! 

[Kit]

I think there is a great variety in quality (like the difference between 50s Lindberg and Wingnuts).   Their Nieuport 29 was pretty good, Sopwith Ansaldo Baby, and Aviattic Ansaldo were excellent.  On the other hand I am really impressed by Mike's work on the HPH Macchi - I have that kit and have looked at how much is required to sort it and trembled. 

[Pup7309]

I think there is a great variety in quality (like the difference between 50s Lindberg and Wingnuts).   Their Nieuport 29 was pretty good, Sopwith Ansaldo Baby, and Aviattic Ansaldo were excellent.  On the other hand I am really impressed by Mike's work on the HPH Macchi - I have that kit and have looked at how much is required to sort it and trembled.

+1

It’d be great if someone did an injection Macchi m5, and Austrian floatplane to duel with...CSM, Roden, anyone?