Bristol Scout C 1/32 First scratch build attempt FINISHED!

[ermeio]

great work until now...
remember that the balsa core must be sealed, else it will get loose and the the skin will make bubbles or waves (I experimented that on my models). You can use thinned cement (britfix or the like), pva glue or gloss warnish mixed with talco powder. Once the sealer is cured, sand it with thin sanding paper. Use superglue or bicomponent to fix the skin, or follow the old method using double-side tape, but this will tend to de-bond with aging.

[Alexis]

Hey Richie , For the core brush on Testors liquid cement or Tamiya liquid cement ( white cap ) let it dry , do this a few times . This will seal the wood and give the double side tape to bite on to . My FE-8 wings were done this way and it has been 10 years and wings are still holding strong 


Terri

[RichieW]

Excellent work Richie! I think you are well on your way to making it all work. By the way the wood tones on the fuselage frame look great!
RAGIII

Thanks as ever Rick, very slowly I'm getting there. I'm loving Vallejo model colour paints. I used a pretty spontaneous mix of brown and orange for the frame.

Thanks for the advice Terri and Ermeio, I was wondering if the core should be sealed. It certainly makes sense! Would Tamiya rattle can primer be any good? 

[lone modeller]

I use the old fashioned but tested talcum powder and dope mixture for filling wood grain. Works every time and sands to a mirror finish. Personally I would use superglue to hold the plastic sheet in place if I were using this method. If I were to use wood at all I would simply sand, fill and paint and not bother with the plastic - who will see it? Ailerons can be easily scribed or better, cut, so IMHO there is no need for a plastic skin and all the complications that brings in its train.

Stephen.

[RichieW]

I use the old fashioned but tested talcum powder and dope mixture for filling wood grain. Works every time and sands to a mirror finish. Personally I would use superglue to hold the plastic sheet in place if I were using this method. If I were to use wood at all I would simply sand, fill and paint and not bother with the plastic - who will see it? Ailerons can be easily scribed or better, cut, so IMHO there is no need for a plastic skin and all the complications that brings in its train.

Stephen.

Thanks Stephen, that's an interesting possibility. I was wondering if that sort of approach might be possible. Plenty of food for thought here. I think I'll have to experiment a little with scrap pieces to see which is most likely to be enjoyable and successful.

[Bughunter]

Richie, you're running a scratch build here like you've never done anything else before! Super work!

Cheers,
Frank

[ermeio]

I use the old fashioned but tested talcum powder and dope mixture for filling wood grain. Works every time and sands to a mirror finish. Personally I would use superglue to hold the plastic sheet in place if I were using this method. If I were to use wood at all I would simply sand, fill and paint and not bother with the plastic - who will see it? Ailerons can be easily scribed or better, cut, so IMHO there is no need for a plastic skin and all the complications that brings in its train.

Stephen.

I agree completely with Stephen ... If you do not find the dope, Humbrol or Tamiya clear are something equivalent.
Two or three thick layers of Humbrol 35 laid by brush and sanded between each pass will do, even without talcum.
The best option remains the old fashioned britfix (or nologo chinese glue) thinned with liquid cement, but I think it has some hazard and smells a lot.
It is important  that the filler grips to the wood, which in my  experience is not the case with primer in spray can. Primer in spray can tends to grip to the skin and to get loose from the wooden core. It is important that the wooden core has a waterproof surface.

[RichieW]

Richie, you're running a scratch build here like you've never done anything else before! Super work!

Cheers,
Frank

Thanks Frank, it's taking a long time. I seem to be spending 3 hours thinking for every hour of modelling. It's fun though!!

Thank Ermeio, really appreciate your advice. Won't get any time for it today but I'll see what I can do tomorrow.

[lone modeller]

Thanks Frank, it's taking a long time. I seem to be spending 3 hours thinking for every hour of modelling. It's fun though!!

That is what scratch building is about Richie! There is no such thing as a weekend scratch build!!

Stephen.

[Bughunter]

I seem to be spending 3 hours thinking for every hour of modelling.

I think that I have the same rate even with building kits!
But I scratch a lot of parts, so a lot of recherche and finding ways to do things is needed.

Cheers,
Frank

[Rookie]

Ritchie,

I think you are doing a great job. My tailplane parts look a mess with all the filling and priming.

Good tips from our fellow builders about the sealing of balsa also.

I can't give you much advice since the V/1500 is also my first scratch build.

And cutting off the wrong end of the wing could happen to me easily also.

Willem

[Early Bird Fan]

i've only just stumbled upon this build and am loving it, keep up the great work 

[Alexis]

How goes the build Richie ?



Terri

[RichieW]

Thanks so much for dropping by to comment or ask about progress chaps. I really do appreciate your interest.

Unfortunately during the recent ferocious heatwave I completely got out of the modelling habit so everything is still as it was. This build hasn't been abandoned, I have all the parts stored in boxes and will get back to it soon.

Happy modelling everybody, I'll be back to normal activity levels soon and look forward to catching up with all your builds.

Richie

[RichieW]

Well, it's been a difficult year to say the least! I have done an awful lot of drinking and absolutely no modelling since my last update but after a few dry weeks the world is a much better place and I have been back at the bench with my old enthusiasm restored.

I burned out before by overthinking everything and worrying that the end result would be awful but I remembered that so long as I have fun and end up with something vaguely Scouty in appearance I will be very happy!

I made a start on the instrument panel, here is the original;


Bristol Scout 1264 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

I'll just go for a passing resemblance!


The base is plastic sheet with wood veneer over the top. I have no idea what the brass dome with a rocker switch is I made it with brass rod filed to a dome shape. I then drilled a hole for it and cut it to length, painted the aluminium 'sleeve' on and glued it in. I might CA a little piece of wire as a rock switch later, probably not though!

Likewise I have no idea what the instrument above is, I used brass tube filled it with Krystal clear and in it went to a pre drilled hole. Spare bits of brass etch were used to make the map frame (not very square!) the middle was painted. I shall cover the middle with gloss varnish. Next up the vertical tube (again no idea!) I just used brass rod and white paint. The pipe that comes from it is Maxima fishing line threaded through and again through a hole drilled in the panel. The white paper discs are just to give an idea of where the other instrument will go. I have some Airscale decals and some bezels are on order. I think they will be too big but I have a cunning plan if that proves to be the case.

To the naked eye it lookd OK but in brutal close up, not so good! I don't mind though, I'm just pleased to be back!

Scout IP progress by Richard Williams, on Flickr

I spent yesterday fussing over the wings, there was a lot of Mr dissolved putty and sanding involved. I think these are smooth enough to be skinned now so I hope to have them and a finished instrument panel to show you soon.

Scout reboot by Richard Williams, on Flickr

Many thanks for reading, I hope everybody has been well since I last posted.

Richie