1/32 WNW Bristol Fighter

[LT1962]

The constructed lower starboard wing against the kit part and the port lower wing and centre section. To join my new wing to the centre section, I was going to use plastic rod. In the end I chose copper wire with a diameter of approx 1.5mm drilled into the wing spars. This was stronger and would allow me to adjust the dihedral of the wing later if needed.

[smperry]

You have taken the art of matching scratch built sections to kit sections to a completely new level. Amazing!
sp

[LT1962]

With the bottom wing basically built I felt brave enough to cut into the fuselage. Here goes nothing.......

[LT1962]

This is all we keep.

[LT1962]

And as with every step, dry fitting about a dozen times to make sure this will all come out alright.

[LT1962]

At this point I realised that I would have an imbalance issue when the model was finished if I only had one skeletonised wing. So I set about making the port upper wing stripped back as well. This process was quicker since I had experience in making the bottom wing previously.

[LT1962]

Then it was on to building the cockpit. The cockpit frames had to be strengthened with pieces of evergreen in places (no photos of this step unfortunately. In addition the fuel tank had some evergreen added to hide the join on the port side. The control column was cut from the original elevator control rod and a slightly longer control rod made from brass tube. Cables added for the gun trigger and pipes added for the pumps and fuel lines. Turnbuckles made from 0.5mm brass tube and copper wire were added to the rudder pedals, and a linkage for the tailplane incidence control on the starboard side of the fuel tank was added. Fairleads for the rudder and incidence control cables were added to the cockpit frames at the lower rear of the gunners compartment.

[LT1962]

Then dry fitting the fuselage pieces again after the cockpit frames were in place. Once this was all adjusted for fit, the fuselage was painted and glued in place.

[LT1962]

Rigging on the scratch built rear fuselage was commenced on the top and bottom sections of the frame using rolled 0.12mm aluminum wire with 0.3mm brass sleeves, cyanoed into place. Side rigging was left until the two halves were joined so there would be room for me to run the rigging from the cockpit to the rudder, tail skid and tailplane incidence control horns.

[LT1962]

The two halves were then joined together. Rigging between the two halves is 2lb mono with 0.13mm brass eyelets. Good tension on the rigging adds significant strength to this join.

[LT1962]

Rigging of the rear fuselage has continued. After the upper and lower sections were rigged with wire, the cross bracing was done with mono. Strips of evergreen are added around the cockpit and gunners compartment where the fabric covering would be fixed. The horizontal stabiliser has been painted and tested for square/fit while the rigging is going on. Rudder and tail fins also painted in preparation for installation.

[LT1962]

The brass rudder stem has been trimmed in preparation for installation of the control arm and associated rigging.

[LT1962]

Tailplane fixed to fuselage, fins and rudder also fixed. Rigging still to come on the tailplane. Tailplane incidence brackets have been installed and rigged. Rudder control arm made of evergreen installed and rigged. The undercarrige legs and lower wing centre section have been painted installed and rigged. At this point there is only two unfixed rigging lines for the ailerons. It must be time to add some more.

[LT1962]

Elevators have been installed as have the control arms either side of the cockpit  (hence the longer control rod modification earlier in the build). Tailplane has now been rigged with mono and same for the elevators. Turnbuckles are made from brass tube and copper wire eyelets.

[LT1962]

Rigging now completed either side of the cockpit and gunners compartment. I used 0.1mm aluminium wire for this. Now its onto the engine bay and engine. Engine mounts, gun tube and radiator painted and dry fitted.