Port Victoria P.V.7 'Grain Kitten' - 1:32 scale

[smperry]

Mike
I am real impressed with the brass rods. It would seem disaster lurks behind a fraction of a mm if the hole or the pin is slightly off. Do you install the pins and then use them to mark locations for the holes? Or is there a secret magic method of getting it right?
Nosy modelers want to know.
sp

[Mike Norris (UK)]

No secret really - just a good drill and a steady hand.
That said this resin kit has been moulded particularly thin, so much so I could see the drill turning inside the resin.
Of course one false move and either the drill will break through or the resin break or both.

To answer your question I point mark the hole location then hand drill to the required depth, constantly clearing the drill, otherwise the cut resin can build up and cause damage or bind the drill, which may break in the hole.
I first drill and add the rods, then lay that part against the receiving part and mark the rod positions.
As the rods are only 0.3 mm in diameter there is a certain amount of 'bend' you can impart if the parts need their alignment 'tweaking',

Mike 

[smperry]

No secret really - just a good drill and a steady hand.

I was afraid you would say that. :-)
By Point mark, do you break the surface of the resin like with the point of a blade? I have noticed my drill bits tend to wander off mark as I try to start a hole in resin.
sp

[Mike Norris (UK)]

I use a metal pointer to make a centre point location for the hole.
The drill will follow the indent and not wander off-line,

Mike

[smperry]

Thanks Mike. I'm going to cast about for something sufficiently hard and sharp to use.  Maybe a T pin would be sharp enough, symmetrical and relatively easy to handle.
I appreciate the advice and I am enjoying watching your work.
sp

[lone modeller]

As Rick has written - continued excellence. With some useful tips thrown in on the way....

Stephen.

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Thanks Mike. I'm going to cast about for something sufficiently hard and sharp to use.  Maybe a T pin would be sharp enough, symmetrical and relatively easy to handle.
I appreciate the advice and I am enjoying watching your work.
sp

Do a search for 'pointed etching tool' - that's the type I use,

Mike

[smperry]

Found and ordered a likely candidate on Amazon:

2PC Carbide Scribe with pocket clip MARKING Etching Measuring Tool on Metal Glass

I had about given up trying to drill holes in precise locations. Thanks again Mike.
sp

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Just the job 

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
Pilot ('Copper State Models') assembled and primed, ready for painting.
He doesn't look too impressed having to fly in the 'Kitten',

Mike

[Juan]

Great start Mike, will be nice to see the figure next to the plane.  Will be like a tall person next to a Mini Cooper.   

[RAGIII]

Looks to be an excellent figure. I am looking forward to seeing it painted!
RAGIII

[kensar]

Looks rather intimidated.  Probably flown a Kitten before.

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
The lower wings are intended to just 'butt' joint against the fuselage sides.
Not good, so I've added 0.8 mm diameter rod into the lower wing halves.
The longer rod passes through the fuselage and into the lower wing on the opposite side.





Also the cockpit has been completed as far as possible as there is no information available.
The seat has been replaced with a 'Barracuda' wicker seat and cushion.
'HGW Models' seat belts fitted and instrument decal from 'Airscale' used.
Rudder control lines from 0.2 mm Nickel-Silver tube and 0.4 mm Aluminium tube.
Switch wire added from 'PlusModel' 0.2 mm diameter wire.













I'll be moving back onto the Macchi M.5 build now, so this build will be on hold for now,

Mike

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
If you think the cockpit is small and somewhat cramped, here's a shot of the replica Port Victoria P.V.8 'Eastchurch Kitten'.
This is being ground run at the Yorkshire Air Museum at Elvington, near York in the UK.
This is similar in size and concept to the P.V.7 'Grain Kitten'.



Mike