Author Topic: Albatros D.II, Jasta 16b 1/48 Eduard (finished) (Read 11975 times)

Robin · « **Reply #30 on:** October 14, 2019, 05:47:20 AM »

Having fun in my own silly little universe.

Music on, an espresso with a glass of cognac next to it. Undisturbed bench time.

Ammo Mig oilbrushers...Ochre, Dark mud and Starship filth.

I get myself another espresso and cognac and do a few more panels.
It's almost a therapeutic thing to do...wish I learned about it years earlier. $:-\$

Robin

FAf · « **Reply #31 on:** October 14, 2019, 06:16:16 AM »

Looks really good! I like the light wood tones.

/Fredrik

Juan · « **Reply #32 on:** October 14, 2019, 07:33:34 AM »

Your wood panels look great Robin.

Robin · « **Reply #33 on:** October 14, 2019, 09:02:51 AM »

Thanks guys,

I'm having a great time doing this...painstaking, but rewarding.
Fredrik...I try my best to keep it (sort of) light.

Now I stop....before I start messing things up, besides. It's 1 AM and I have to get up early for work.

Robin

RAGIII · « **Reply #34 on:** October 14, 2019, 11:25:25 PM »

I really like your Technique! What type of paints are you using?
RAGIII

Robin · « **Reply #35 on:** October 15, 2019, 04:12:46 AM »

Thanks Rick,

This is all I use...

3 "Oilbrushers" from Ammo-Mig, odourless thinner from the same brand, a couple of soft brushes and a piece of toilet paper.
The oilbrushers are ready to use....thinned down and with a brush...tubes with oil paint.
Ochre, Starship Filth and Dark Mud are the ones I use for my wood.
I use them on a very light sand / grey base.
Apply the dots (like used for weathering...there I got the idea from). Go make a cup of coffee...drink coffee, or just sit on your hands for 10 minutes

.
Now get a dry brush and spread the paint over the panel the way you like. Next a brush dipped in thinner, but remove most thinner from the brush or it will become a muddy sludge. Very lightly remove paint until you get the look you like. Can be dark or light....and anything in between.
Lighter panels are most difficult....when you remove a little too much paint, you can start again.
The very light touch seems to be the key to success.

Trial and error, but since this is my first and I'm not a wizzard....it's pretty easy.

Robin

Robin · « **Reply #36 on:** October 15, 2019, 09:41:53 PM »

All the wood is done now.

I learned a lot along the road and I think it looks pretty good....from normal viewing distance at least. $:-\$
Perhaps a bit too much light/dark contrast....better next one.

I like the few panels with a burled wood finish best.

Can anyone tell me how long I must wait until I can gloss coat this? And is it safe to use a spray can? (I have Tamiya, Vallejo and Mr.Hobby)
Thanks.

Robin

Robin · « **Reply #37 on:** October 17, 2019, 07:17:04 PM »

I made good progress....the fuselage is now ready.

Had some issues fitting the Spandaus, because the engine isn't perfectly placed. Kinda stupid I didn't notice that in time.
Not a big issue, but still annoying and I'll make sure that won't happen with my next build...an Albi D.III.
Gloss coated the fuselage with Mr. Hobby....before and after decals. The tail with semi-gloss.

I ventured into pre-shading. Still a bit clumsy, but I get the hang of it. 1 mm masking tape.
It shows neatly on the light blue underside. On top it works well with the light green...not so much with the dark green and brown.

Next up...painting the wings. I already drilled the holes for the eyelets, so I guess I'm ready to go.

More soon,

Robin

RAGIII · « **Reply #38 on:** October 17, 2019, 09:58:48 PM »

Really looking Terrific with the Markings in place. Nice subtle job on the pre shading.
RAGIII

FAf · « **Reply #39 on:** October 17, 2019, 10:24:13 PM »

Good work! Interesting to see how the whole appearance changes as markings are applied. /Fredrik

Robin · « **Reply #40 on:** October 18, 2019, 12:27:24 AM »

Thanks guys

Robin

Bughunter · « **Reply #41 on:** October 18, 2019, 01:47:44 AM »

Quote from: Robin on October 15, 2019, 09:41:53 PM

Can anyone tell me how long I must wait until I can gloss coat this?

Wow, you are really fast!
You give the oils only 2 days? I hope there won't be any cracks.

The oils are not drying as normal paints, but reacting/oxidizing with oxygen. If you just use thin layer of artists oils in normal temprature, I would say a week. The old oil paintings (thick layers) need years!
If you use add ons e.g. Schmincke "Medium L" flow improver, higher temperatures, and improved air flow (more oxygen) - the hardening times are decreasing.
If it still smells strongly like oil I would not put coats on it.

Nice result, as usual.
I hope that my MGs will fit!

Cheers,
Frank

lone modeller · « **Reply #42 on:** October 18, 2019, 04:07:26 AM »

That is a first class wood finish - I really must try out that idea. With the markings it looks even better!

With reference to the oil paints: I use Windsor and Newton oils which have been allowed to stand for 30 minutes to tale out some of the oil and then I place the model in a warm cupboard for three days. Then I apply thin coats of acrylic but only after another two or three days: that seems to be OK and I have not had any problems so far.

Stephen.

Robin · « **Reply #43 on:** October 18, 2019, 06:42:54 AM »

Thanks Steven and Frank.

Oww....oops. Well, so far so good with the oils.

Fingers crossed.

Robin

lcarroll · « **Reply #44 on:** October 18, 2019, 08:23:28 AM »

Robin,
Like Stephen I use Windsor & Newton Oils. I've had great luck with their drying agent, a gel called "Liquin". You just dip your brush in the gel, mix it with your oil paint at about 1 part gel to 10 parts paint and then do your wood graining as normal. I find that it's fully cured in 24 hours or less!

You should be able to find it at any Artist's Supply Store.
Cheers,
Lance