Hi Rick,
It's good stuff and very easy to apply with no risk.
Here's an extract from my build log, which will be made available once the model is finished.
Mike
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Flory Model clay washes: These washes come in various shades and consist of a suspended and very fine clay pigment.
They are brushed over the surface to be weathered and dry in around 30 minutes.
When dry, use either a piece of good, absorbent kitchen roll or a soft to remove as much of the clay wash as you need to achieve the desired effect.
Once dampened, the dried clay is re-activated and the clay wash can be removed or worked as required.
First I seal the surface with airbrushed ‘Alclad’ Light Sheen (ALC-311), which dries quickly. A gloss coat tends to stop the clay wash ‘gripping’ the surface when it is applied and it can run off or just puddle. A matte coat can cause the clay wash to ‘grip’ too much, making it difficult to remove or even to wash it off completely.
NOTE 1: The more glossy the applied sealing coat is, the more the chance there is that the applied ’Flory’ clay wash will not spread fully, but rather form puddles or beads of wash. If this happens, add a few drops of ordinary kitchen washing up liquid to the clay wash. This will break the surface tension of the wash, allowing it spread fully.
NOTE 2: Always decant the amount of clay wash you need, rather than dipping the brush directly into the wash bottle. Dipping into the wash bottle can transfer contaminants from the brush into the wash, will can cause the wash to become thick and unusable.
NOTE 3: When a sealing coat is applied over areas treated with clay wash weathering, the intensity of the applied wash tends to darken. This should be considered when removing the clay wash, otherwise the final effect may appear too dark.
To apply the clay wash is just a matter of brushing all over the surface to be weathered. It doesn’t matter really how much is applied as it can be left on for any period, as it is easily removed without any effect on the surface underneath.
If you don't achieve your desired effect, you can wash it all off and start again.
The washes I tend to use are the ‘Flory Models’ Clay Wash ’Grime’ and ’Dark Dirt’.
I use a soft brush, which has been very slightly dampened, to brush off the clay wash.
For smearing effects, a very slightly damp brush or absorbent paper should be used, but even then I dab them onto a dry piece of the paper, until it’s almost dry.
Any wetter and you’ll find that you are removing too much of the clay wash. If that happens you would have to re-apply the wash and start again. That said, if you’re not happy with the final effect, you can easily remove the clay wash by brushing with a wet brush or even airbrush water over the surface. Dry off the surfaces washed and then re-apply the clay wash and try again until you are satisfied.
The technique is to 'damp' brush or wipe over the surface to re-activate the clay wash and at the same time, to smear it over areas that had no clay wash.
It’ll dry more or less straight away. Then I’ll very lightly brush and/or use a piece of damp absorbent paper to remove as much as I want until I get the desired effect.
If I remove too much I just reapply clay wash to that area and repeat the removal procedure.
Once finished, just run the brush under a tap to rinse out any residual clay pigments.
Finally I usually seal the surface with airbrushed ‘Alclad’ Light Sheen (ALC-311), which will seal in the applied clay wash.
NOTE 4: ‘Flory’ current range of washes are: Dark Dirt, Grime, Black, Light (white), Mud, Sand, Rust and Concrete. All of these washes can be used as-is or mixed to create many colour shades for weathering.
