3d printers (resin 2024) which one for 1/48 parts?

[the great waldo]

Hello All
I've got to the point of wanting to buy a 3d resin printer to make some model parts with. Does anyone have some experience or recommendations what to buy? I don't mind spending a bit if the quality is good and i'm not too fussed about the speed of the print. Most parts i've seen printed seem to be covered in lines as part of the printing proccess. Any  advice gratefully accepted. Cheers
Andrew

[Edo]

hi Andrew,
you open up a Pandora vase....
I think that 3d printig will change (or has already changed) our hobby... so, as you did, 2 years ago I bught myself an Elegoo Mars 2 resin printer. It has just a 2k resolution and is quite old compared to the speed of technology, but I’ll share some thoughts with you.
First of all, besides the hardware, it is the deign process that it is for me the first and foremost obstacle to overcome, if you are not willing to invest money and above all time in learning how to 3d model, I fear that the ‘value’ of the printer itself greately diminishes as it is very hard to find on the market 3d files of what you have in mind (at least as far as my experience goes), so 3d modeling is becomeing the new sprue cutting and gluing...
Also, a lot of trial and error has to be taken in consideration before ‘mastering’ the magic of orientation, support placing, slicing and such... a process that to me remains with a lot of unexplains and exposed to casualty and mistery.
Lastly, as far as hardware is concerned, I find that 2k has still a resolution that holds its place: much depending also from the quality of the files. I bought some fantasy figures on the market and printed them in 1:20 sh scale and they are beautiful! in 1:35 too I don’t see any flaws. of course even if the printer can go at 0,03mm laier  it doesn’t mean it can actually be of use as it is so hard to handle such a thin piece also in injection moulded plastic... I found that the printer can print things that my 1.0 hands can’t handle.... I found a guy on Youtube that measure 3d printer resolution by dividing pixel count by screen length (as pixel dimension remain the same) instead of using the 2k, 8k, etc resolution measure. I think it make sense and, according to this, you get the best resolution in the market with an 8k printer, which if fine also money wise....
I hope this is of some help...

ciao
edo

[IanB]

I design and print parts for my 1:72 builds and use a Mars 4 Ultra. The detail is great but as mentioned, the learning curve is in the designing. The lines are usually due to bad part orientation when printing and can usually be minimised if not eliminated completely by correct orientation. Here are some nose parts for a Pegasus DH4 and a tail for Pegasus Taube

https://flic.kr/p/2oTg32B
https://flic.kr/p/2pc8kEW
https://flic.kr/p/2pz3e63

Ian

[the great waldo]

Hi Ian

Thanks for posting the photos. That gives me a good idea of the kind of quality I can expect from a resin printer.

Cheers
Andrew

[Gene K]

Good info posted above, in particular as concerns the steep learning curve in designing your own parts. But ... there are excellent files for WWI pieces that you can download for free or for a small charge on sites like Cults. For example, I've downloaded WWI pilots, guns, wheels and engines. Of course the parts are easily scaled and you won't lose quality (although some parts may get thin in 1/72).

Before using your printer, you'll have to learn a program to prepare the files for the printer (a "slicer" like Lychee or Chitubox), and you'll have to invest $$ in post-printing items to process (wash and cure) the resin ... among other things.  Fortunately the price of hardware has dropped to very reasonable levels, and basic software is free. You'll likely find yourself learning a lot from the excellent tutorials on YouTube on both hardware and software. And you'll have to learn about different resin and their characteristics.

The Mars printers mentioned above are manufactured by Elegoo, a Chinese company. This company, as most other resin printer manufacturers, relies on Chinese parts such as those made by Chitu, a company using Apple-like "proprietary tactics ... but there are great alternatives being developed. I've just recently upgraded from a Mars 3 Pro to a Mars 5 Ultra. Great machines! Older Mars models (new) can now be had for as little as $100!  WOW

https://us.elegoo.com/collections/3d-printing/products/elegoo-mars-3-pro-4k-mono-lcd-3d-printer 

And to top that, since Elegoo have a US Distribution Center, shipping is free!

Lastly, you said that you don't have the need, the need for speed ... but you will!! 

It's a great hobby-in-a-hobby that will give you a lot of satisfaction along with some frustration. Definitely worth the adventure if have the time and enjoy a little tinkering while you dial in yourself and the new hardware.

Gene K

[the great waldo]

Hi Gene

Hows the print quality on the mars 5 ultra ? A close up photo of a finished item would be nice. I have a fear of 3d printers leaving prints with layer lines ! Here in Austria there are not many places to see a print before you buy, so I pretty much have to rely on you tube and word of mouth. Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Andrew

[Gene K]

How's the print quality on the Mars 5 ultra ?

As with my previous Mars models, I consider it excellent. The reason I "upgraded" to the Ultra 5 was not because I wanted better quality, but because I wanted more speed as well as some of the bells and whistles such as wifi file transfer and the camera monitoring.

A close up photo of a finished item would be nice 

I'm primarily a 1/72 modeler, and don't have a micro lens nor appropriate lighting, so my pics wouldn't be of much help.

I have a fear of 3d printers leaving prints with layer lines

As mentioned, Andrew, those "layer lines" can be minimized (not eliminated) by such measures as object orientation, printer settings such as layer thickness and antialiasing, and (gasp) light manual sanding.  Antialiasing is mechanical, but object orientation is an art that definitely matters in hiding layer lines (from folks with magnifying glasses).   


My bottom line is that all the top printers you've read about (such as Elegoo, Phrozed, ANYCUBIC, and Pursa) can all produce outstanding results ...BUT it's the skill of the operator that matters the most in doing so.

Sorry I can't really help to ease your trepidation, but I suggest you seek out a local group whose members can explain the art and show you samples!!! 

Gene K

[the great waldo]

Hi Gene

Thanks for your input. In your opinion would a primer coat or a couple of coats of paint be enough to blend out the layer lines ? I think i'm going to have to find someone here with a printer to have a good look at the output.

Cheers
Andrew

[IanB]

Again, if the part is oriented correctly, and the anti-aliasing is done properly, there will be no layer lines.
https://flic.kr/p/2nHHpEU
https://flic.kr/p/2nJLkRA
https://flic.kr/p/2pyW4y2

These are 1:72 parts
 The 1st 2 for a Ford Model T ambulance, the last a test print for a Taube tail which is no more than 0.15mm thick.

It's just practice with getting the right settings. The printer will print whatever detail you need.
This is the suspension for the ambulance
https://flic.kr/p/2nzamX3
Steering wheel
https://flic.kr/p/2nFRtbf
Finished model (wheels also 3d printed)
https://flic.kr/p/2nL6GtM
Remember, this is 1:72nd!



Ian

[the great waldo]

Thank you Ian

Those parts look fine.
Cheers
Andrew