forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Bughunter on November 27, 2018, 05:03:06 AM
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Sopwith 5F.1 Dolphin, CSM 1:48
After finishing the SE.5a (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=9942.0) here are my next project. The order is to finish started projects at first, but this kit was already started some time ago. Many parts was removed from sprue and cleaned up already. So now it's time to glue those parts together.
Until now I have build models from Eduard and Special Hobby, so I wanted to try out also my first kit from Copper State Models. So this is a Sopwith 5F.1 Dolphin in 1/48 in the Premium Edition of the kit.
Regarding sources of information I intend to use:
- The great manual of the kit
- The Windsock Datafile 54
(https://www.scalemates.com/books/img/8/7/9/103879-10000-75-pristine.jpg)
- Dolphin and Snipe Aces of World War I
(https://www.scalemates.com/books/img/9/0/1/101901-10000-68-pristine.jpg)
- Great book about the Dolphin, including color pictures of the restoration for Hendon
(https://web.ipmsusa3.org/sites/default/files/imagecache/review_cover_full/reviews/sopwith-dolphin-rfc-rnas-raf-and-polish-service/ipms_nats_150215_1028_0.jpg)
Source: web.ipmsusa3.org
Let's start ...
The inside of the fuselage was primed white, followed by alu and linen color MRP-257.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iAPZN2lxUG7yNj8btCmyzxs2xrrSE6zr)
The framing and all the wooden parts a brushed with a acrylics wood color base.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19rU-F5UOOpAtG1O5LOCm792I-6iE4_uG)
I painted all the wooden parts with some texture, and covered it finally by a layer of clear Orange. Not so clean towards the tail, but this will not be visible later.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DSHideI18E-cH-63LSnFY0pB__OdBi27)
The kit includes PE parts for realizing the internal rigging - never seen this before in 1/48!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1eavmsSXUvPnP_it8QmwE5Jpl7klWNYDR)
Internal rigging mostly done, have to respect the seat frame in the middle.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JeoHF-j496xIo2KwmvthF5Nbfld97VxI)
Two fuel caps lathed and milled, right one painted blueish grey already.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19ulQGrSLwmgK3K548zGQm_zKzqtMuYIT)
Upper tank prepared.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dJ-DGCOEUkwzjOQv7NnFKG2Nk7PESQMQ)
Added some alu foil as straps to the main tank, but don't like the look. So I masked it and sprayed a layer Alclad Steel.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1GrQt1Ixw-ZuLMdRYpBSDr_ISC7FnwM8Y)
Better.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gtMYHxxcbtsfjItdJWu8GobhweuH7x1G)
Both tanks mounted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1WDlAsAQXhcjsE6msRUBNWM-uB6I4F3Lo)
Here a view to the upper cap. Fuselage is only dry fitting.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1m--GuFwxnSf_K7jf18tlToL8qYioLSns)
And to the side cap. There is a good picture in the Dolphin-book, which shows a chain, but this detail I left for the WNW builders.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=190D4_6VNV1hJMy1aGX7hWpJoizSE5g6O)
Regarding coloring - I will do the C4131 with the checkerboard pattern on the back, as those decals are part of the Premium Edition.
So, this was the start of building a great kit. Thank you Edgar and colleagues!
I hope, that some of you will like what I trying to do and follow 8)
Cheers,
Frank
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Awesome start, Frank. Like usually I‘ll follow curiously.
Best regards
Andreas
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Great start Frank! I know we will see a stunning build as you progress!
RAGIII
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Beautiful start Frank, I am sure will be another of your beauties. Following with popcorn in hand.
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Awww, a typical "Frankenbuild" this will be awsome again and a worthful reference.
Bye,
Manni
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Lovely Frank,
Will be following for another master class!
Guy
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An excellent start on a great kit Frank. The CSM Dolphin is a real gem in 48th scale.
Looking forward to your build here.
cheers
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
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I join the line of enthusiastic commenting modellers, the start is awesome and can't wait to seeing the continuation!
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Hello my friends, great to see you here following :D
A warm welcome!
Seat and belts
The "wicker chair" is part of the PE of the kit, which I soldered.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-pcegxDcBzv3ya1PletgtWTADvyO4vRO)
There are also PE seat belts, but need to be painted ???
But then I found a HGW set for the Dolphin:
https://hgwmodels.cz/en/seatbelts/564-sopwith-5f1-dolphin-seatbelts-148-148550.html
I don't had it at home, but another one for the Camel which looks identical. It is even cheaper :)
The parts looks really nice, the carrier paper is still on the backside.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13MEpqwaaPDcBXDmuCqYUwGMhIVQlKMog)
The are different mounting options and spare parts. I like the leather look of the part with the 3 rows of holes.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1cYmQxMMPSCtu7Fex-rKdrpJ2cnRvOlAj)
The seat was painted. I added CA gel to upper edge and painted leather color.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19V9VhfXUvxGx6TRPb-D28TbAO1D_kzlm)
Belts are mounted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13aRwE9rN7GZvl35kDCSiuri16XE9bMaS)
The frame is glued into one half and can now continue with the internal rigging.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1jAd60KwFggITInsM02QTvIuYhvq9PAeQ)
Cheers,
Frank
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Awesome painting of the seat and the belts look FANTATSIC!
RAGIII
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Hello
Very nice beginning of construction.
Good continuation
Gérard
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Beautiful details Frank!
Antonio
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This promises to be another of your outstanding builds and I'm following with immense pleasure.
Thank you for sharing.
Giuseppe
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Thank you Rick, Gérard, Antonio and Giuseppe!
I have now a update, but the further progress will slow down a bit due to lack of time.
Engine
Now I have done the engine.
This are the resin parts of the Premium Edition.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2uoOSnvCCnM/V3LjfckPhWI/AAAAAAAAG9o/YdGBdzhUzRsoK6E6ri09rUjDWQUph4DpwCCo/s800/kit17.jpg)
I cleaned the parts, primed with Alclad black and painted according to the manual. Mostly with Alclads, the gloss heads are MRP. The plastic parts are the remaining geared engine of my Eduard SE.5a for comparison.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1sjHsaIeDI1rpoYksB-xz0dzk58Z24pUs)
The small details are painted with brush.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1V7G7dYHWRfHOqPiYHiGRAVKIbS6wTEA_)
The crankcase is semi matt alu. It needs some graphite and a washing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YR4X7ugTHnU0N6cQS5J8s-b7SjQ7bz6w)
It fits and looks ok.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1CyyaajXHdnwJAmUMw7xzoeimxdJsY56H)
Mostly not visible later.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11UGjccLRKtoi3VZkoLuonaPP-rzBy0kL)
The front view shows more, but there will be the hub of the airscrew.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=198-P8GqTGfkon1nOfvWD5Ra5_ZuKiE5k)
There are two parts for the normal kit - the cylinders will be glued into the cowling. But it is also possible to be the engine separately since the manual show both options.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1clPU2zUlZlAwsZJB_xDJ7pdN1G3vpKEX)
A real highlight are the metal exhausts of the Premium. Fits, but I have not glued them in place to avoid mounting problems later.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18tIUJ0sK76ZJUGixN_PV6oeBoCA9_iHv)
The engine is done, now some thoughts about the weapons.
Three types of Vickers MG: PE of Part, a Gaspatch and below the kit part.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1B2__3tRM8PYYRweQUOTbxkQqdGKMx87W)
I do not like the closed front, the Gaspatch looks more real.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hFEnAg5IIjkdSAqaLWF2Wjsd4Zn1fHr4)
Here in the modified cowling. Also other parts needs to be modified to get the bigger (but in scale) Gaspatch in.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1cXeG6XnuFbXJzPpDw_odrxa6c8IqB4XV)
Also in a drawing comparison I like the Gaspatch more.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JRbquqy77K0VM_nVBPFqIGDPsheiKw1L)
The PE of Parts are not needed. It makes sense, if the cooling jackets has real openings, but on the Dolphin the front is closed and the openings are below the cowling. So there is no need to solder the PE for this model. I have more detail pictures, but no copyright. But the closed jacket can also be seen in this WNW picture.
(http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/vEF754EA7/www/products/model_kitsets/32073/archive_photos/Sopwith%205F.1%20Dolphin%20C3816%20(0383-050).jpg)
Quelle: wingnutwings.com
If you have objections or ideas, please speak up!
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
Good start and a Build I'll follow closely. I have the Wingnut Wings Kit I'd like to start in the New Year, and I know I can learn a great deal following your work here! :)
Cheers,
Lance
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Thank you Lance!
You will have fun in the new year, even if I find the Sopwith Dolphin a bit ugly with the stagger wings (compared to other Sopwith), the WNW kit is great! At least the manual promised it, shows much more detail and take advantage of the big scale compare to mine.
Cheers,
Frank
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Good work!
You've chosen your AM very well, it makes a big difference. Many times I've huffed, puffed and folded bits of AM that turned out to be exactly the same as the kit parts, only 10 times the price. Your Gaspatch guns in particular make a huge difference, it's stunning especially considering it's 1/48.
I love the Sopwith Dolphin, it's one of my favourite WWI aeroplanes. It may look a bit clunky, but I just think it looks stuffed full of character, like the RE.8 and BE.2c. I've bought three of the WNW Dolphin kits, together with both Pheon decal sets.
If I can get them looking half as good as your build, I'll be a happy man indeed.
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Thank you for your extensive answer!
The Gaspatch are great and do not need big work. The PE of Part I mentioned looks great too, especially with the cut out in the cooling jackets.
But needs a huge amount of effort, my pictures here are a good explanation:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=9172.msg170089#msg170089
Another nice thing about the Part PE are the optional parts, different cooling jackets, different handles, even different fronts (see parts 15 and 16).
But as explained in this case I stay with the Gaspatch.
Cheers,
Frank
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Landing gear
So my friends of the micro mechanics - after a long period of silence due to family and X-mas I now able to continue my work on this project.
I started to handle the gear.
Axle is bended outside to get tilted wheels and the diameter in the wheels is bigger.
That is not very original, but there are moulding limits.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1EzTlRsWzkiNubkKqWruE_Tzm3QBWzZnS)
Some problems:
1. Axle
- prepared for metal half axle,
2. to wide
- shortened the middle part removes details, still to wide on the picture,
3. struts are now to long due to new angle
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1FeOybPae9-Dvvvhmk8kj7zizWbvz3xMk)
So I made a new , mainly for struts. The lowest part is a tube!
With all the nice drawings and pictures in the Datafile and especially in the "Cross & Cockades" book I will made a new brass construction from scratch.
- lowest part is a 0.9mm tube,
- soldered struts (1.4mm squezzed pipe to 0.8 x 1.8mm) to it.
- connected with a 0.6mm brass pin (suspension limit and stabilising)
- from outside 0.7mm pins for suspension soledered into drilled hole.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JEWWmG8dOCrdPnYOnkRtyAI0jqPxbFrZ)
Inside 0.4mm brass pins to hold the middle part. Looks shorter in drawing due to the angle.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ueBTFUgRWdZkfBJ6sFTWHI5TG24vVw99)
What about the middle part? may be the plastic part, but ...
The drawing in "Cross & Cockades" book showed a closed (no axles visible) underside?
Found this pictures on the WNW pages:
(http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/v3ED049C7/www/products/model_kitsets/32073/archive_photos/Sopwith%205F.1%20Dolphin%20D3700%20of%2090%20Squadron%20after%20an%20Avro%20504%20C560%20landed%20on%20top%20of%20it%20(0957-019).jpg)
Soruce: wingnutwings.com
So a new plan: wooden part, here in a raw form. Thinner at all and thinned on the back side.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1PH7GSNMZlthEiMLtDndo6he6WyVA0ZPf)
The Hendon restauration pictures shows a metal part, so I covered it with thin brass 0.05mm and soldered on the back side. Opened the cut outs only on upper side.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vrlhseNcBAx_5qN-MTzDtSvQW6wGxGw9)
Plugged together, the 0,8mm nickel-silver axles needed to be cutted to real size.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QJzUDYxAbsFsrd8U9iMW1p-b3aPkmtu1)
Compared to the original - the suspension will be made from stretched sprue.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lWvecwQN5xOCByl9EWWcVgM90gAfFfYg)
Sorry Edgar - but is is still a great kit!!!
Cheers,
Frank
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Magic Frank! Again your superb skills with solder take your work well out of the ordinary, and to a much higher level. The detail you add to your Builds is incredible, and enjoyable to follow.
Cheers,
Lance
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I know this will sound strange, but sometimes I feel bad looking at a build like this... I have this kit in my stash, planning for a while to do it, but other yell or scream for atention harder so far.
On the one hand, amazing build so far, love totally what you do and it will come out another masterpiece.
At the same time though, now I know that I will a: never reach your level (my eyesight and dexterity and slowing going downhill) and b: that there are faults/mistakes in the kit. Offcourse I know that no kit will ever be perfect, but will knowing that these faults are there and my inability to correct them take the fun out of building it?
I hope not, but we wil see. Nevertheless, please keep on showing what can be done with this great kit, love absolutely what you are doing.
good luck, Hidde
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Thank you Lance, you always find so nice words for my work!
You will have fun with your WNW kit, that manual and reference pictures are helpful for me too.
I know this will sound strange, but sometimes I feel bad looking at a build like this...
Thank you Hidde for your thoughts! I can fully understand your problem. I really wanted to use the kit gear, in my picture you can see the first modifications and the added pins.
I do not want to see my posting as critic to the kit. The new "C&C" book was not available at creation time. Often there are many variants due to different companies producing the same type, and even within the batches on the same factory. The "C&C" book talks about Dolphin I, II and III. The prototypes not calculated, so may be the kit is also correct for one of the 2072 Dolphins ;)
Nevertheless, please keep on showing what can be done with this great kit, love absolutely what you are doing.
Thank you for such great compliment!
Since I really like to solder brass,
and I'm an engineer and want to understand technical solutions,
and if there are great drawings and pictures available (which is often not the case),
then sometimes my temper got the better of me and I try to find out, what is possible 8)
This was done in a step-by-step approach, during starting with the struts I had now idea about the middle part.
Thanks again and a good start into the new year!
Cheers,
Frank
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It’s a pity that such superfluous things like X-Mas or family keeps us away from the bench! ;)
Great detailing on the undercarriage. Impressive metalworks as usual, Frank!
Best regards
Andreas
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Thank you Andreas!
It’s a pity that such superfluous things like X-Mas or family keeps us away from the bench! ;)
And if I had some free hours in December, no motivation :(
Einen guten Rutsch,
Frank
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Very advanced modelling Frank!
Guy
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Very advanced modelling Frank!
Guy
Totally agree.
Giuseppe
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Very advanced modelling Frank!
Guy
Totally agree.
Giuseppe
Likewise, 100% agreement to all the above comments on the quality of your work !
Ed
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Very advanced modelling Frank!
Guy
Totally agree.
Giuseppe
Likewise, 100% agreement to all the above comments on the quality of your work !
Ed
No disagreement from this Amigo! Just your usual Brilliant work Frank!
RAGIII
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Oh, thank you for your chorus Guy, Giuseppe, Ed and Rick!
Suspension
For finishing I tinned the struts:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Nuo2zQ3mHyftMzOmCKWSpji5sumxtA3N)
Primed with Gunze Mr. Metal Primer, painted with MrPaint "PC10 Late" and glued together.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TAR-Xocf1NodQBcyUn-K8q75JTWCdYoG)
The 0.8mm nickel silver half axles with added limit stops ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Zsitmrd6dbFEOFbiT_CPp0bCbCNFYPl4)
so that the suspension do not touch the wheel. The holders in the middle are 0.3mm nickel silver.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vVIGuSx0g3MD8KXQU5RFuMQdi9x3zg3X)
Straight position ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1LnpVsW8MgGQNH2mP9pXt4_wCELr6vaXX)
... and deflected.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hHhwmyh9KVRUOp549TxmrAhWvrZC6ZNs)
Added suspension made from streched sprue in deflected position:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1MqubfHPX8FnUixcsrmVah2WnWX5-Vbmj)
My landing gear matches nearly the drawing:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QoXpq3cJjEmgu6uESvP7O2UrhzN9VncD)
For dry fitting plugged to the fuselage. After mounting I need to add the rigging.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1xP_OM-Lot-vF21FwgLbXyAhGf9KPE13N)
Nice, if somthing is done.
Cheers,
Frank
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Simply amazing! Thumbs up, Frank!
Andreas
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Oops, the 120 days warning ::) No, I don't want to open a new thread, but should continue on this one!
Haven't touch this parts fro sooo long?
Originally I wanted to use the markings of C4131 with the checkerboard on the deck as provided in the Premium Edition.
But last year I was awarded with two Pheon sets in our great Des Memorial Group Build. I selected a set of the Dolphin/Snipe, mainly because I have the Snipe kit from Hi-Tech in my stash where the decals are broken due the age. This offers now also the option to build the blue Dolphin C3799 as flown by Capt Irving.
Rick, you have build that bird too - do you have a picture, which shows the "B" marking of Capt Irving? After a bit of research I'm more confused.
The Osprey book "Dolphin and Snipe Aces of World War 1" shows the B, but only on sides and not below and on top of the wings. Both Pheon sets (1/48 & 1/32) shows uses also the "B", but also on the wings.
My Dolphin "bible" contain a b/w photo of Irving beside his C3799, and there is clearly a "K" on the right side and that is the only picture I know of C3799. The blue Dolphin with white "K" is also shown as color drawing in the section "Color and markings" and in a different layout on the front page of the book (the right one):
(https://web.ipmsusa3.org/sites/default/files/imagecache/review_cover_full/reviews/sopwith-dolphin-rfc-rnas-raf-and-polish-service/ipms_nats_150215_1028_0.jpg)
Source: web.ipmsusa3.org
I found no white "K" decals, so I have now the option to use the "B"s as provided by Pheon, or cut masks to spray the "K"s.
So if there is somewhere a confirmation of the big "B"s please tell me about it!
Cheers,
Frank
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I will have to check but honestly I think I went with Rowans interpretation because he usually , if not always, does his homework well. If you have photo reference of the Ks and blue nose I would be tempted to mask and paint, or in My case pay to have the masks made :-[ As for the letters on the wings it was pretty standard practice but then again who knows. Perhaps there were several repaints and a letter change?
RAGIII
PS: I have to wonder if there are photos somewhere that neither of us have access to. It seems that every Major profile artist has done this one with the "B" markings vs the "K". Very interesting find!
RAGIII
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Thank you for looking Rick!
I think many/all "B"s are based on the Osprey Aces book, this is from 2002. But if I haven't overlooked it, there is no photo in the book showing the C3799 with the B.
The new RAF Museum book is from 2012 and has may be newer info (180 pages in A4 format).
There is a chapter with operational details, victories and even flight hours of every built Dolphin based on serials. If available, also photos.
For copyright reasons I will not scan the mentioned photo, but the text beside it says: "... 2Lt G.B. Irving of 19 Squadron standing beside C3799 'K'. The pilot mentioned in a letter home that this machine had a engine cowling, the area behind the cockpit, the fin and the upper tailplane surface painted blue."
But the serial is not visible, and the Dolphin is very dark, so I cannot confirm if this is really the blue 3799. The K is a normal one, not this arty K as on B7927.
On pro side: the "connected balls" are between the K and the cockade, and only one Lewis is mounted on right side.
Perhaps there were several repaints and a letter change?
May be, or the picture shows another Dolphin of that Squadron?
That's why I asked, on which information/photo the B of the Aces book is based on. May be also mentioned in his letter home?
It seems that every Major profile artist has done this one with the "B" markings vs the "K". Very interesting find!
Once such a graphic is released in a book, even based on assumptions, everyone takes it over in his docs, so it gets "real" soon 8)
Cheers,
Frank
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Brass and copper
Due to final work on my Bristol Fighter and the Memorial Group Build this project was going in hold.
But now I decided to continue a bit on it. Not sure about able to finish it in one go, let's see.
Another build report made me aware of some small things to correct. I'm not a "rivet counter", but once I'm aware of some issues, I should fix them.
So I started with moving the lacing line up a bit, according to the Datafile and RAF Museum book drawings. I used Eduard PEs, but the 1/72 set to get a small line.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UxGYS4dBHTFb2YbBnF5UeQqXTEr0L1sE)
As next step I closed the preformed hole fro the struts with stretched sprue, because the struts needs to go one more rib out in wingtip direction.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Ujt9c6xEl7o_VdA1H0M5bjsLNxB5hJcd)
The kit contains PE parts for the small wing windows to allow control of the pulleys, but only in "closed" form.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ue8lTQsUF0WzSX0yiCigSrQ9sOyip3uE)
I showed this detail also on other models, so I need to open the wings here too.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1p7DIIE4NuGEbi0-Hk7GBARAK79iE6QuH)
The next thing was some scratch work with brass, copper and nickel silver. The thickest part in pic is 0.8mm.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ehc_knz5BhRbCfdJO5DxkhPEI0YlXuI6)
On right side I added vertically the pump and some tap.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1WZC_tIkABi58jzjlCt15HKoaNE3rwZ58)
The left side shows now a fuel selector between upper and lower tank.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11YvYg4kAn3wNlxmSCeDraDXJnbKFVVqd)
All those details was added with help of pictures in the RAF Museum book. Okay, in the original aircraft are more pipes and details, but this is 1/48 ... The WNW model seems to show this things in full beauty.
Some things should be still visible after closing the fuselage.
Cheers,
Frank
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Wow!!! Love the scratch built metal components, really beautiful work. Going to follow this one.
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Frank
Just how did you make the little brass valve handles? Flatten the end of a piece of rod and then bend the still round portion at an angle? Those things give the plumbing a scale look another order of magnitude more detailed. Great work!
sp
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Your metal work always amazes me, Frank. It has to be soooo small!
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Thank you very much!
Just how did you make the little brass valve handles? Flatten the end of a piece of rod and then bend the still round portion at an angle?
The handles are squezzed with a plier from 0.2mm brass. That is so thin, you can bend it in any form. The round part is glued into 0.4mm micro tube.
Cheers,
Frank
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Is this that huge 1 Cent coin you showed me in Fürstenfeld that you put next to your 1/24 scale Dolphin cockpit? It works, people start to think it’s 1/48.... :D
Andreas
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Gorgeous work on the interior, Frank. Especially the metal bits are drawing my attention.
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Stunning work as always Frank! Like the others your piping and other additions/corrections really catch My eye!
RAGIII
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Thank you very much my friends!
I like to create this metal parts, because I don't have to paint the details then and it looks more real.
At first a picture for Andreas: yes, I'm doing a second build in parallel in 1/144, as you already assumed:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Z0qxPg6wJLw01KPfMFcW4wytdo8anynZ)
Aileron pulleys
Now some very small parts, not shown in the Datafile drawings but the RAF Museum book - the aileron pulleys. I scratched them on my Pup and on the SE.5a all was provided by Eduard. So I have to do it here too.
Last time I showed the wing openings, I painted them linen. The spar was painted in wood color and the sides with a dark grey.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iMuQy6Lp1NDzDoaRcMszc5gYAW8M8r3t)
The pulleys are 1.4mm diameter created with punch&die tool and painted aluminium.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16HMe3fH7qTXlO63lxQSQbIij9kS0h7Pr)
I glued the pulleys into the openings, but was not able to create holders in metal. But due to the latest discussion there come the idea to bend black streched (on the Cent) sprue into a "V" and squezze it lightly. That seems to work.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=198rVn37maCDNRFfFB0h0xupjH3ElYFD3)
With windows and frames from a Parts PE set it will look like this:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1wC2LWW7Bj9pRulS6a7hqAlhbqhXik82w)
It seems to be reasonably true to the original, in comparison to the drawing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1x34enW8zX3jTNWiNOuhf5Sx8Zzi9DBsG)
May be you know this detail from a WNW kit, but in this scale this was damn fiddly!
Still some careful glueing required, but not today ...
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank your English improves with every post: "....in this scale this was dam fiddly"!
The pipework and taps and now the pulleys for the aileron cables, your work never ceases to amaze me. I might just try to add some similar detail to my current 1/32 scale build - and that will be fiddly enough for me if I succeed, (which I am still not sure about).
Stephen.
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That looks proper fiddly but brilliantly done Frank.
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Fidddly Indeed but brilliant Modeling! Stunning work as always!
RAGIII
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Hi Frank ,
Really nice job on those details and the landing gear legs turned out excellent . Once the pulley windows are installed , those are going to look sharp .
Terri
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Very creative and effective solution to the pulley bracket. ( Translation: Quick! Write that down and stick it in the Dolphin box.)
Great modeling.
sp
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Fuselage
The Dolphin requires some thoughts regarding painting and mounting. I wanted to close the fuselage, so I continued on parts for that.
For the instrument panel I added some spare decals and PEs from Eduard since there are no dials in the kit. For the compass in the middle I added a polished slice of stretched clear sprue.
I think I will add small brass wires to both switches down left.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1WeI9IVAriWvpOcYuxxIQIuAxmvs8Y9zP)
The fuselage halves are glued together then, so I could add more of the great PE to lower surface.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dn56qfS3rdCKOm5IUtigzIwTLKSYcBUi)
On the side there are other PE parts, the air guide plates for the radiator are nearly functioning. The maintenance panel could be showed opened, but I decided to close them.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1wUKVLpLKiJarq-raeiTV9NOgaeowTg80)
Another example for nice PE usage are the "ears" on the upper cover: clever mix of PE and plastic.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dSkpw6xKAlgOBDf2APOG6ISnMr6yvVPU)
The next task was the masking of the fuselage. All holes are closed.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IbnX4OB_QZknzi2hUhLVwfMpJD5K7faW)
The I primed and sanded the fuselage.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1wLpYMpn89byiqkJSZO6zkgm1KdZXI-vv)
The lower surface of the tail plane is painted with shading, in real it looks better and I like the outcome. I often paint to much layers, but this time I stopped early enough.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iIvYNbPt01wuZSMmuObU6Mz6uLEeUB4x)
I checked the blue cans of my paints, since I don't have the RAF blue of Drooling bulldog. I tried 5 different or so, decided at the end for Gunze H5. A very deep blue, in the direction to violet. It matches nearly the blue color on the Pheon decals. The Osprey Aces book has a color plate for it, which looks violet.
But I added a drop of Tamiya X-21 to get a satin finish.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1sj3kVHxPRtD-D8w4gFuWWmcFGSHXAxzI)
The back part is painted with MRP PC10. I wait a bit before I masked for the blue front. The tailplane need some more layers.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1OwWaaUA2a9VGkcmkSWt3rQaIKpSfv2rP)
The was a day with good results. To be continued ...
Cheers,
Frank
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Continuing to be totally awesome as always! I Love the blue, it looks perfect!
RAGIII
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Frank , Guten Tag !
Ist genial . wunderbar !
I must say , I really like that shade of blue ( favorite color ) and have made a note to get instruments . I didn't notice if they where in the kit . I do like your shading on the underside of the tail plane , it's prefekt :) But now I have to wait for the top side and I do look forward on how it turns out . Go with the gut feeling you on the underside and stop . I find this alsways to be the hardest part , always want to keep and more layers .
Looking forward to the next stage Frank !
Terri
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Thank you Rick and Terri!
Blue and Sight
At first I used today PC1 - "Protective Covering 1", also known as masking ;D
The parts now blue enough for me, luckily no big accident during painting and unmasking. One mask lifted up I had some overspray going in, but exactly were later a cockade decal is placed.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1iUf5vYc2rPQpuAjJefJzX6sLOQN6Yy4j)
The fuselage is not big, the camera highlights the blue, because in real it looks darker.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11rMrmBMNR9j327sB8RTvH3h5CkchMBLb)
The blue paint is allowed to dry now, so I'm doing some other details.
The radiator is made of PE and plastic, painted matt black, here in comparison to the original one. I was not able to mask the small recesses since they are so small. So I removed the fresh paint with a wooden tooth stick, but needed some tries.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11nTGUJwNfYgE1rpW1uSvu_N4Qzfuh6h-)
The next think was the Aldis Sight.
The kit one on top is grey plastic and on the long side, may be some additional cover on. So I used clear streched sprue again to create one according to the plan, polished the ends and added small brass rings.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1xu9AhD9Fxx1dIXm_hhB8eU2xECPHSmUo)
After paint it black ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1z00BVLdngKdMpHT1Gl8KOnkoP5D4i7F1)
... it looks like the real one:
(http://storage.mfa.free.fr/gallery/Se5/aldis2.jpg)
Source: simhq.com
And it allows light going through, here you see my roof window.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ZAX-FwlYInrpDbEhPFxCyv5UbkGHJdTJ)
And I see a problem on the horizon!
Today I read Rick's build report of the big WNW Dolphin again completely and I noticed the robust construction of the lower wings. Both wings are firmly connected by the fuselage section and thus the angle is given and above all the lower wings can support the upper ones.
On my smaller model the lower wings are glued only with small pins to the fuselage, so cannot take much load (left side of pic).
The upper wings are connected by only very thin plastic struts (plus sprue gates) which cannot take much load, see right.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1poIZRiJrv92Qo890fG7nK9suldVk_rGq)
So nearly the full load of four wings hangs on those thin struts - that will not work with driving to exhibitions on highway ::).
One solution would be functional rigging, but normally I use rubber lines, or I will try to stabilize the lower wings, to get somehow a WNW solution. Let's see ...
Cheers,
Frank
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Excellent work as usual with your masterpieces, Frank!
Regards
Jörg
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Amazing is all I can say! I really have to remember that clear sprue Idea for the gunsight!!
RAGIII
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Thank you Jörg and Rick!
Rick, I forgot to mention the lower fuselage surface, see the first picture of the last update. You have done it with linen and painted the panels battleship grey, I decided to use PC10 and paint the side-matching panels also blue ;)
I think both paintings are possible. I found two pictures on the same page of the RAF book, one with linen, the other one with PC10. We will never know the real lower surface of Irvings Dolphin.
Today I tried to mount more things to the front of the fuselage ... I can only say, do not try to use Gaspatch Vickers, don't even think about it! >:( There are so many parts to be integrated, all very tight fit. Again, do not use other then kit Vickers! ::)
Cheers,
Frank
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Engine compartment
At first I have to add the panel, the painted Gaspatch Vickers and the blue cowling together. Even with dry fitting before the paint job nothing fits. After further modifications and a lot of tries (with some paint scratches) it is now one piece.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19tIknnAcajm8k5_X_VKrghw_qdWWf48X)
The window is not yet in, only the frame.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1obVt9ENmO0lpE8L0xqJk67juxg_DJ8QO)
I noticed some fit problems between fuselage, engine and cowling. Later I found the reason - the fuselage halves bend together! I used a rigid 0.6mm nickel silver rod to create some pressure, the problem was to find a place, where is no collison with engine or cockpit parts. Now also the struts on top fits to the upper wing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Un1lliFYu3lfMuTJl2KVvu6_Jf4z0R81)
I painted the nickel silver black and added control stick, rudder pedal and a bar on top with instrument.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dp-VARz0hDncWQU_O6mm3QsQ3v8bUYIs)
Long time ago I prepared the engine:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1CyyaajXHdnwJAmUMw7xzoeimxdJsY56H)
Now engine and cowling was added to the fuselage, some small PE are added to outside.
The front panel is only plugged in.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=13q0XhATByuGsaHOvNjGhokEYiHvulINz)
There's not much room in the cockpit!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1t7BlW6kmx_DW5CqkkSaV-eKuNLn1S_i4)
This was one of the most complicated mounting work ever done on a model by me.
Now I need a substitute nerve:
(https://www.trnd.com/de/toptrnd/ersatz-nerv/1-ersatznerv_full.jpg)
Source: trnd.com
Anyway, I like the result. I need only to fix some scratches, mostly in the metal paint.
Cheers,
Frank
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Just catching up Frank. Your skill and patience are really to be admired.... getting all fo those tiny pieces into a very small space without damaging anything is truly wonderful. I am still trying to get my head around the size of many of these pieces - in 1/32 scale they are small enough!
Stephen.
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Exceptional work Frank! This one, as usual for you, could be mistaken for a Larger scale!
RAGIII
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Thanks you Stephen and Rick!
Wings
After the big progress on fuselage the next step should be the wings.
The aileron recess contains small clamps, but as I find it difficult to glue the painted parts later cleanly, I decided to pin the ailerons with brass.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rzozA_z_nBMh1QLX_-XYdk5SKKsJZFQK)
It holds without glue, and I can bend the ailerons into position later.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1vv3MMoBlw5j_4SzHxGaS5-KAQ5mOa63o)
And since I just made hinges, I separated the rudder from the fin (the only connected control surface in the kit) and tried something new: thin metal hinges. On the original, they also look very delicate. The very thin plastic pins fro mounting are also replaced by brass.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ZUSEWDmefVqQbLQ_q8CEEtx_5dj8-KC0)
Then I cut out the windows (very thin) and glued them to the wings. That went surprisingly well with superglue.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1AklDlukGDveTFkXEO8mHuB3Z20KKY4ry)
The PE frames (half etched, so also very thin) are tinned and glued on top
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1-0Unoiz9xy_VN38N9ccq9J1OsqFv8B6N)
For masking of the wings I used my cutting machine to cut matching stripes in Oramask foil. The nice thing is, that you can have every thickness and length you need. The stripes are applied to white primed wing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18QW3cW1gadrnluMNyoRg5IssxpXOzeXV)
The I shadowed the wings, not so strong on lower side ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VGFuXO0nWBnnWEKgg9PxHgb84bxaeJHh)
... and a bit more on top.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fp1tvmxZtXi8zHrXWf0JVFV4tKahfqI7)
For the painting of the wings I tried to use the Dolphin in Hendon as template. On underside MRP linen ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1yiyZK9PlUAvID0f5YKSx47g4xAtr-f9F)
... and on top MRP PC10.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BpiRCWCE2cuv99nydoMm1JS1CdmusWBQ)
I'm curious how it all looks together ::) The decals can follow soon.
Cheers,
Frank
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Wow Frank! Your work in 1:48 would be hard for me to duplicate in 1:32. Two questions. First, please tell more about the cutting machine and second, you mention tinning a PE frame. As with a soldering iron?
sp
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Thank you!
The cutting plotter is a Silhouette Portrait 2 which I got last Christmas. My first project to use it were the markings of my Sopwith Schneider project. Nice device, but I use a ball bearing aluminium blade holder with matching blades (found on ebay). And I cannot say anything about the Silhouette software, because it do not run on Linux, so I use Inkscape.
The tinning was not done with heat, it is a chemical process. I can't find a translation, it is mentioned in the german wikipedia, but not on the english page:
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Verzinnen#Chemisches_Verzinnen
Cheers,
Frank
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Your usual outstanding work Frank! I really like the look of the MRP paint. I might need to try it out on MY next British subject. Do you know if they make any French colors?
RAGIII
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I'm glad you like it, Rick!
There are no french color in the direct WWI line, but there are a huge amount of color shades of green, brown ....
See https://mrpaint.sk/
If yo search for brown, you will find a lot.
They spray great, I say it is like Alclad in color ;)
Cheers,
Frank
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Must say Frank , really like how the shading turned out on the wings ! That office is a very tight space not giving the pilot much room between him and bunts of the guns .
Terri
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Thank you Terri!
One thing I forgot to mention regarding the wings: this serial is a Sopwith production, and on that machines the PC10 is not around the leading edge on lower surface, according to the RAF museum book.
Decals
Today only one picture: I am happy that all decals are applied accident-free!
I decided to go with the Pheon decals and the B marking.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rI4Rt2HRDlCxLy3_HTdVd_27VmhVUsNC)
Some touch-ups needed on Aileron cutouts.
Cheers,
Frank
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Awesome Frank! I am wishing you had done your build before I did Mine ::) Interesting about the outlining...Mine has it , Oh Well :-[ What Made you choose B over K?
RAGIII
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Thank you Rick! Yours look great for sure!
The differences between production companies are very subtle. The best indication is the "LIFT HERE" font and layout, including the arrow :)
What Made you choose B over K?
My assumption was, that I do not know the source on which Pheon based the decals and that they do a good research. The picture with the K is so different, that is may be another (earlier or later) machine. Even the layout of the connected balls is different.
Which using the complete marking set as decals I have consistent colors. With replacing some elements by masking this may look different, and to mask many of that small elements is a bigger effort (which I want to avoid).
Cheers,
Frank
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Skid and sync
At first a photo related to the last update. The cockade war on top of the lacing, but after one session with Daco Strong it conforms to it.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VIjEuGdN7cCvvaB_GQGtVv1kwkqgM1Ij)
And now towards the details!
I forgot the tails skid which should be mounted before closing the shells. But it was anyway very fragile, so I made a new wooden one. Two "U"s are bend and got additional parts soldered to it.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1H5dcQqTy1cG64MTdeJWpQJ_9VmleUb9e)
Good enough in comparison to the original part.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Ge7S9UaO00p5Y2XVa-khWIEKvZ6SlnfJ)
All parts mounted and some black paint added. Done.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1PnJ-wm-CNcMmllsY3axkZN89Hy25WxA8)
And now to the Constantinesco interruptor gear. Please note my scratched parts on the left on top of a pic of the original gear. The black shell holds the gear.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lHgcErdDFSpiFdrVZnzpUtljFbtBCBzO)
On top the propeller shaft, left of the self made cog wheel there is a sleeve, which allow free rotation, once glued into the resin engine. The end is soldered limit stop.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1U-t8fltLTYx_WEMygAhCi3sXtHbcUXC-)
Looks not bad after mounted and painted on the engine.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1A6V4ElLrF-L0JZyy3THm895baXqbaAik)
But: B I G F A I L ! The bonnet do not fit anymore, I do not respected the thickness of the bonnet. :'(
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Xiw7OX0LrVBOSQTKm1RfWBnfCgnJsmLf)
So I created V2.0 of the gear, more flat and mounted far more back.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1uiVE0KkAVSZx7DMpqAehXhkSyo8CoXA-)
Looks ok and provides more space. But to the second one I forgot the oil wash! ::)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19MqSs7KZJm9lwkViuo0s7TNXpWRKxoPz)
The bonnet fits and is glued in place.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1cMIThMjNdmxuubQkR0a6uCi9txZXKK_I)
The openings allow a view on the pipes and the gear. The blue paint needs to be fixed on the seam.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1RVlMAGizxDmJj6ZD1zZ2xRYKTvcU9I_b)
This was not foreseen in the kit, but I could not resist to scratch this parts. I'm always impressed, if I look in WNW manuals, how many details those kits are showing, the big Dolphin is no exception. So I want to build at least some of the visible details.
I hope you will like it!
Cheers,
Frank
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Breathtaking details. again the Swiss watchmaker comes to my mind.
Andreas
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I don't like it Frank, I love it! What a great detail to add and so well executed. Like I said. I love it.
sp
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No Frank that does not look bad - it looks absolutely wonderful. Having tried unsuccessfully to make some small parts in 1/32 scale I am even more in awe of you skill in producing even smaller parts than I do!
To write that your work is inspiring would be an understement, but I cannot write what I really think because I cannot find words that are good enough.
Stephen
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Breathtaking details. again the Swiss watchmaker comes to my mind.
Andreas
My thought exactly.
Always amazing scratchbuilt details make your models jewels.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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I am simply stunned by this detail Frank! Amazing work!
RAGIII
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Wow, Thank you all! If the native speakers are out of words - that's a big praise.
What's the best way to say thank you? Show the next parts of my Corona project!
Radiators
The radiators I have already shown, but now was the time to mount them. I added 0.4mm brass pipe and a 0.2mm brass wire, I guess for steam overflow.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Qa9FOCbH70jmeTiLFPGeBymcMDdxabDg)
And I continued to paint the remaining parts blue.
Did I mention I love the cutting plotter? There are circle cutters for 90€ from AK/Meng (https://www.fantasywelt.de/Hobbx-Circle-Cutter?curr=EUR) available. I think it is not a bad device, but for some more money you get a device, which can do cut circles and a lot of other masks!
I removed the PC10 on outer side of wheels, the grey primer was still ok.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1f-LBT_zRb_vLS4L-sogLkElKkpJbR2yI)
I like the blue and PC10 combination.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dtgdtsoHt1aBTAxVnHu5ZGg3gfkojoaG)
The rudder assembly is also painted, may be I removed the mask on red line to early.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DFiaeOb_yN0D1LiyOn5KxOcrczHrzC6E)
I looks like, the main mount session can start soon. But I think the finish is a bit delayed by parcel service, because I have things for the Dolphin on order.
Cheers,
Frank
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Very cool!
One of my Corona-projects at the moment is a long-stalled Hasegawa '67 VW Transporter that stalled on the VW emblem -it looked like the red stripe, but much worse... I finally got around to working on that, too!
Too bad I really promised myself to finish at least the VW and the 1/72 F4U-4 Corsairs, seeing not only this, but also the other great looking builds makes me want to pick up my Camel again :)
Jeroen
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Now you got me wanting to start a Dolphin , just don't know which one to build . CSM or WNW kit is being tossed back and forth at the moment .
You never disappoint us with your details Frank , outstanding ! Looks like your new tool is working good for you on cutting mask , perfect job on those wheels !
Terri
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More details and beautiful painting! Simply gorgeous!
RAGIII
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Thank you Jeroen, Terri and Rick!
Now you got me wanting to start a Dolphin , just don't know which one to build . CSM or WNW kit is being tossed back and forth at the moment .
I can't help here, I think both kits are great!
Monoplane
The lower wings are mounted and very stable, after that I put the landing gear in place.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1mWNFXI7nOkDG5GYZMczdG4TLUXgYWF-o)
The great real metal with very thin outlets exhausts are on the engine now. Those exhausts are part of the Premium edition.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ByVcIt9B1uM_kZ3ZensK28sZfGJj7Mim)
The final picture shows the actual state (I was surprised by the colors of this picture, real sun but model in shadow is the best light source):
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1CzIB21uaJDMpFNYayeik2aWAOOzxPavP)
But don't worry, there is still enough on the ToDo list so it will keep me busy for a while.
Cheers,
Frank
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That is absolutely Stunning! The painting is Superb!
RAGIII
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Thank you Rick! Let's see how it looks like beside yours in the Dolphin thread.
Struts
A long time ago I painted the kit struts, but I don't like the look.
Now, with the Pheon decal set on hand there are new options. It contains also a sticker template for a mounting rig and on that are also "True" length drawings for inner and outer struts. The Pheon manual recommends to create the struts using boxwood.
You don't have to tell me things like that twice!
Long time ago I bought some pieces of boxwood on ebay. One piece was not very nice, saw blade marks, holes, to thin do saw veneer form it for my airscrews, but for struts it is usable. Cut small stripes and sanded struts according to the drawing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fwkYfB6xz1V2-Naec24q879E7kf0U7GV)
Here again the raw struts, not yet painted. Thinner then the kit struts but more robust. The brass pins are 0.4mm.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lrxsoEFyze5MYM13m7B4WdCZEfOLjLTD)
Boxwood is very bright, here beside the real struts for the Dolphin in Hendon.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1407kXyBjwVT9CxQTg6Mx32VazdQePSGF)
The Pheon manual mention the Blue Max kit and a older resin one. For this new kit I had to shorten the struts a bit during dry fitting. The struts are plugged into the lower wing and are painted now.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VATI7AlmArUy6BCW19bxrYNIQ_x3VU_Z)
The PE parts are provided by the CSM kit and are glued to the wing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1axMx-AoMxrDAH8vJnArG5ZYYLaULa5JY)
As next step I will mount the upper wing and fit the struts between the wings.
Cheers,
Frank
-
Biplane
The usual problems, one step forward, two steps back ...
I left the sprues between both upper wings until I really need to cut them. Once cut I managed to break the thin frame between them immediately. The struts had to be shortened by another 1.5mm, which also meant a new paint job.
Anyway, the upper wing is now mounted!
Some impressions:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1n1PXxlUFGD-EjHrPdha0snjc-5nEhq5n)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1kddvq9KgFqF2EGBnSjgBO5j0JFCADo54)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1X1ZU_xSijV4m3tWIHZty9ASit9wS8uap)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DApGUOcNH_JvG-tvs5NkJd8ZaGZToDOJ)
The staggered wings create a strange look. But I like the bright boxwood struts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1E609H-XS4sU4Ds6D8CG-QRm3ifNJ3sO-)
The project is now on hold until a parcel arrives from Greece.
Have a nice weekend,
Frank
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You really nailed the struts Frank. They are the perfect shade and work hand in hand with the contrasting blue paint and great PC10 finish to make the model really pop visually.
Please tell about those strut fittings. Are they a kit part? AM PE? Scratch made? They really look the part.
sp
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You are outdoing even your usual Superb work Frank! I agree with all SP said! I may need some pointers on carving struts soon, if I don't chicken out :-[
RAGIII
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Thank you!
Please tell about those strut fittings. Are they a kit part?
Yes! This is the complete PE of this kit, with a lot of nice parts. I believe this is nickel silver (my kit was the Premium set).
See the parts on the lower row.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uyuuYVi7LqE/V3LjddWdayI/AAAAAAAAG9o/DLggo9tBIgQ09Y7iPUj8FhN7XovC1bBawCCo/s800/kit12.jpg)
I may need some pointers on carving struts soon, if I don't chicken out :-[
What pointers you need?
You have at least the kit struts, if no better information like drawings. Plastic struts are often thicker to be more rigid.
Measure the thickness and width, cut a stripe of wood accordingly, or (what I have done often with my struts in pear) glue some stripe of veneer to get the needed thickness. A small circular saw is helpful, but it also possible without. I use a Proxxon KS230.
(https://cdn.idealo.com/folder/Product/357/6/357685/s1_produktbild_gross/proxxon-ks-230-27006.jpg)
And then take some sanding tool and form the struts. Round at the front, sharp at the back side. Much easier compared to shaping a airscrew.
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks Frank, I would cheerfully buy a PE fret with nothing but these kind of fittings, practical and realistic looking. Also, thanks for the name of the saw. I have been looking for a tiny table saw for a while now now I have that product flagged and in line for a bite of my disposable income.
sp
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Frank, I am not talking about the building skills you show here, they are second to none, but also your painting gets more and more vivid and fascinating. I really like how you finished the wings.
Do you use a brassrod as a core for your struts or do you drill and pin the ends?
Andreas
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I agree with Andreas - your building skills truly are second to none. Your painting skills are also of the very highest order - indeed everything you do just shouts quality craftsmanship. It is therefore re-assuring to us lesser mortals to read that sometimes things do not always work as you would wish the to - but if you had not told us I doubt whether we would ever have known!
Stephen.
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Hi Frank - she's looking fantastic. I love those struts.
The only little suggestion I would make would be to consider post-shading the decals, just to help visually tie the whole thing together. The shaded ribs in particular would look great if they extended to the roundels, especially given the shading on the blue on the tail is quite apparent.
Otherwise I think you're doing a great job on this one!
Cheers,
BC
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Thank you all for your kind comments, highly appreciated!
Do you use a brassrod as a core for your struts or do you drill and pin the ends?
Andreas, this struts are a one-piece-affair, so not glued from veneer. So I drilled and pinned the brass rods (and had to remove the pins on one side for shortening again).
The only little suggestion I would make would be to consider post-shading the decals, just to help visually tie the whole thing together.
Brad, there is some light shading with "smoke" on the decals, but I must admit this time not very strong. I hatedo not love to mask on decals, and managed this time to have a red dot of a cockade, which is a own decal, hanging on the masking tape :(
The pictures were a bit bright, I believe the final picture in light tent will show it better.
My be I will add more shading, thanks for the hint.
In my personal opinion it is not my best model because there are many small issues, hard to be fixed lately. It is a complex build where you have to paint many parts at first. If then something happens during mounting then there is no chance for repair. Or you can try it, but it will be still visible. You can dry fit ten times, but it will not fit during the final process, mostly due to my personal add-ons ::)
Thanks again!
Cheers,
Frank
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I would cheerfully buy a PE fret with nothing but these kind of fittings, practical and realistic looking.
If a accessory is not available, the modeler can do it himself 8) As you see there, somehow the Dolphin PE was my inspiration.
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=9378.msg177275#msg177275
Later in the build report you will also pictures of mounting and rigging.
Or, if money is no object, buy some Dolphin kits and use only those etched parts. ;D ;D ;D
but also your painting gets more and more vivid and fascinating. I really like how you finished the wings.
Andreas, I want to mention one thing. I painted the wing using MRP. I like the colors and they spray perfectly, but I see a disadvantage:
These paints are much more sensitive to knocks and scratches. Gunze colors are more resistant, not to mention enamels. Maybe more clear coat will help.
Cheers,
Frank
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I hope the parcel from Greece arrives soon, this is a seriously beautiful model. The MRP paints look fantastic. I love them but a drawback I have found is that I can't do small touch ups with a brush.
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How much and beautiful work since my last visit, and the overall look is not less impressive then tiny details. The blue livery is really eyecatching.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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She looks good with the top wing mounted :)
Terri
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Nice!
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Thank you Richie, Giuseppe, Terri and Gaz!
RAF wires
To rig a British biplane was always a problem.
I guess most of you know this, but may be not all readers so here a short explanation.
The RAF wires are no ropes, but flat steel bars in an aerodynamic shape with threads at the ends. This bar was mounted in special terminals. According to WNW the size is in 1/32 0.1x0.3mm for main rigging.
In 1/48 EZ line is a good representation, but the terminals are problematic. I cant handle the old metal turnbuckles from Gaspatch of this type in a good way so I tried different things, PE from Part on my DH.2 Strip down, self made terminals with a lot of metal parts on my Bristol Fighter, but her the effort was very high.
Now a solution was on the horizon in Greece so I ordered a new resin set from Gaspatch Models.
As usual safely packed, according to the pack are 100 RAF terminals provided. In real there are 8 rows with 13 pieces in each row.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1cAHPxZLdQLyVeuvd0FsadVfmcgUXfvo-)
This little beasts have a hole! Gaspatch recommends EZ-line:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QfdTPTR45OicJwjK7qkLYT9sjmv3c9sB)
... or a 0.1mm wire:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=12mWfA0f1NWY9OxkAmnQLxTZHOZHxf9WT)
I put some on a 0.1mm wire for metal paint. So here you can see how small the terminals are!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IL8Gtrd-pvOk6BRlwaFaZOb0fBOKjUk9)
Prepared some for mounting:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1M3v8CyuEPCQ1mSHBPL2ccMx0fNwYrAVE)
The bad thing was, that I had mounted the kit PE, struts and upper wing already. This was bad idea! I tried to use the new terminals anyway, but hat some trouble with broken paint on the PE (I had to remove the ears), so this will not be my best model.
Here are some impressions of the better connections:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1yGbJSep9VyfI4onLxyDfSXBeI4XHVO-H)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1dX_rZ93Rh6oXm80fXzFhyKanI9mXsdnY)
I think this new solution is the best available one on the market! The bigger 1/32 are may be easier to handle, but this smaller 1/48 can also used in bigger scale for rigging inside the fuselage.
My preparation of this model was only to far for best usage of this new toy. Thank you Costas!
Now I have the add the remaining RAF wires ...
Cheers,
Frank
PS: If you order some, please tell Costas that you got the hint from me ;)
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Great looking attachments Frank, the package from Greece was well worth waiting for then. Looking forward to seeing the guns too.
Richie
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Anchor points and rigging look Fantastic to Me. You are an Awesome Modeler!
RAGIII
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Neat solution for fixing the wires , Gaspatch has some neat products out . Rigging is excellent Frank , nothing to be disappoint with .
Terri
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Amazed! I was at first believing you were rigging a larger scale model.
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Thank you Richie, Rick, Terri and Gaz!
Looking forward to seeing the guns too.
Both Gaspatch Vickers are already mounted ;)
You are an Awesome Modeler!
An Awesome Modeler would not make my mistakes, but
- do not twist the EZ-Line
- drill holes for the EZ-Line prior mounting
- shorten the mounting ears of the RAF Wire Terminals a bit
- do not use PE in parallel
- rotate the terminals on the small inside crosses by 90°
But no project is useless. It can still serve as a bad example. So I can try to do better on the Sopwith Triplane.
Speaking of which, what is "experience"? When you realize you've made the same mistake before. 8)
One side is done by now.
Cheers,
Frank
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Those fittings look promising. Now we need rigging line that is flat through the middle with round ends.
Great work all around on this build, Frank.
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Those fittings look promising. Now we need rigging line that is flat through the middle with round ends.
Ken, in your scale you can take a 0.2mm wire, cut threads at the end and roll the middle between two steel rolls flat until it reaches the 0.1x0.3mm nominal size. ;)
I don't know what size the hole in the 1/32 terminals is. A 1/24 version is available too.
Cheers,
Frank
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Ha, that was a nice solution... I’m struggling with the rigging on my Pup. Struggling in sense of not being able to decide on which method to use. But having seen this I’m now thinking that this might be the way to go!
If I understand the method correctly; you simply drill a hole, slide the anchor point on to the line and glue the line into the hole? I can see why an elastic line is preferable.
Great work on the model! Very inspiring!
/Fredrik
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Yes, Fredrik. That is the way Gaspatch recommends.
At first glue only the line into the whole, then slide the terminal also to end and fix it.
And you are right, the Pup uses also RAF wires. My 1/48 Pup got a lot of small slotted metal pipes for that, so the new solution saves a lot of effort.
I only don't know rigging material of the WNW recommended size of 0.1x0.3mm. I have seen a model with such flat fishing line, but this is not elastic.
Just finished the wing rigging 8) But I'm no more able to continue today with the control wires - enough is enough!
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks also from me for the clarification, I was wondering about that. So essentially you're using these terminals as some would use small brass tubes. Interesting for sure, and they look great!
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Control wires
After finishing the wing rigging I noticed, that the gear needs also some lines. So after pictures I added those wires using nickel silver pipe pieces.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1jdI9k326s41omUobWmoPYtaQcDGJuePQ)
Here again the model alone:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1cMBH55IxPpq-EivWEKXYXb2X2UQBubrP)
The ailerons are mounted and rigged, together with a line between the ailerons.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1cpOjGK6mnTRyInNYcunMMC_i6vqa83WG)
Here I'm doing the tailplane control wires:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18Cv03go-9Hl69QGRhP_nS4DLM_-SwIkL)
All actual wires together:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1DNK3e4Gwiky4sw3t9EJoSkRpHdXp4QF6)
There are still many lines missing, for example on the tail.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1bEq2KbUmduVlj0Mk8MGbU5JNKT4X5Coq)
A lot of small details needs to be added too, for example the great multiple part PE from the kit for the pitot.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1kSNSA-JXyb1qlQ71h-RNH1t8dVduQily)
And that is a view of the actual state. All what you see is mounted.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1O9-wGIuzw6TUY7SqoOsffC4humBWPv-_)
There's a light at the end of the tunnel, or is that an oncoming train?
Cheers,
Frank
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Thumbs up Frank!
Andreas
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What you are doing is marvellous Frank.Your models with "mistakes" are better than mine without!
Gaspatch products are superb - and not too expensive either.
Stephen.
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No oncoming train coming there Frank, this is looking completely stunning. A very bright light at the end of the end of tunnel shining through a nice glass of chilled beer to celebrate a great build!
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Frank , experience comes from knowing that you messed up and that you'll do it again ;)
So far your build is moving forward beautifully , nice clean and tight rigging !
Terri
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Excellent tip for RAF wire terminals and a beautiful overall look of your dolphin.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Thank you very much, my friends!
Rigging completed
Now the tail is also rigged, 14 additional connections. This includes securing the control horns to the back.
I'm getting old, sine I forgot to drill the holes for the rigging prior mounting >:( It is a more risky job on painted and mounted model.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1TlaviFU6as36nRpzYX8hflyR7OotWMFE)
Another job was to add six additional lines to cockpit. It could only be done after mounting of upper wing. Wanted to do it yesterday but failed. It was to bright sun shine, so I was not able to see it with hard light and shadows in the tight cockpit, artificial light do not help either. Today I was more relaxed and the sky was gray - that job is done 8)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rGzKOJEouf_fFYkn6lsSMccCxotgPpEG)
Another example of the very nice PE parts of the kit: a locking of the cowling.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Lcok9QTN9XaEJoCFc8lcE5gLvixrMasr)
Mounted here in front of the exhaust. The last two lines from cowling to upper strut are also shown, I used Gaspatch One End turnbuckles here, because that is not a RAF wire. The rigging is finished!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=19nV1-fAkyVdzV0tl6iz0P4Cw0B-T7Glq)
Now follows some details and painting, to repair scratches etc.
A very bright light at the end of the end of tunnel shining through a nice glass of chilled beer to celebrate a great build!
That is a brilliant idea, but after the final pictures. I hope to be ready next weekend.
Cheers,
Frank
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Looks Awesome Frank! Looking forward to the final Photos!
RAGIII
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Brilliant Frank, super neat rigging. Those troublesome last few cockpit wires were well worth it.
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Thank you Rick and Richie!
Airscrew
Some details needs to be added finally.
The lockers on the windscreen sides are the smallest PE parts of the kit. The shape looks exactly as on pictures of the original biplane, unbelievable! See both below the "C", only the manual is wrong, because each one has a different form and an individual number.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1F0UxM2njAnHFpYDKVns6Xmh7tcgEMwfW)
The windscreen was mounted together with the prepared (see earlier updates) Aldis sight, and this little PE glued in place.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1SvD-Y_k4yBr55iAF7wzJiPBCF6FOMzfF)
Another topic on the ToDo list was the airscrew.
The kit contains two variants. The upper one looks exactly like as on the prototype, could only be a bit longer. The one below is more a later one, according to my reference book. So I made a wooden one of the first production batch, which this serial belongs to (the C3799 is not a kit offering). Here the raw sanding on front.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1fFZAfZsSx3X5D1Zv0LPORZnZ71Ai_Vn8)
And the view from back:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1NP1I0JKgQapiVB8jf5Op3_h8g_GSaqLZ)
The prop boss is a kit PE, but I added a middle locking, turned from brass. First wood varnish.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17VtV_IZzTQJKEtlIhSiJ4tqKTlqEmJyl)
The final airscrew, the locking is glued and the boss is "bolted" with 0.2mm nickel silver.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lxghqJq1yfjwA-gBfBQ63s61-l6i3Du7)
Plugged to the Dolphin. Originally I wanted to paint the blades gray, but the airscrew is to nice to hide it!
The Datafile shows beautiful pictures of C3786 with a wooden airscrew. The C3803 as option of the WNW kit has a wooden airscrew. This C3799 is just between them, so I guess this painting practice was done later and not yet on the first Sopwith batch.
It is not glued yet, so any veto against my theory?
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17JKKJ4X-K-_mmQ8I1YQLqB-fkwAdJLD5)
I ordered also this Lewis from Gaspatch. I had some, but not this variant. Painted with Alclads and scratch build a mount. I guess this (white) plate is to avoid to shot into the airscrew.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YapczTOEGHMQL5X7LBSlsCjUIL5hr8Zw)
And glued in place.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HJqFoNk4qy-1lbWnJVvWGCilCvxPlAZ5)
Pitot was added and connected with 0.2mm lead lines.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IVK6fKU0fONkg3K-oLboEgdkHnzgJsk5)
And a final view!
The scratches on the Vickers was fixed with painting Alcalds with brush, other scratches fixed too. The RAF wires are metalized and the sockets of the RAF wire terminals are painted black. Finally a very light weathering was applied.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1lBG-eQWpHjx5IdH4Dpn5gMqsjzesDD1D)
I was going through the manual again, but it seems that all parts are mounted. So after a loooong journey this build ends and the Sopwith Dolphin is finished. What a great kit and what a project!
Thanks you all for following and your inspiring comments!
Cheers,
Frank
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Awesome results Frank! I have enjoyed following this one even more having done the 1/32nd version! Yours is Spectacular in all respects!!
RAGIII
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Frank
You brought out as much or more in 1/48 scale than most could bring out in 1/32. I real inspiration and a pleasure to watch it all come together.
sp
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Very inspiring results! The level of detail on your builds are always fantastic and this one is no exception. I also really like your documentation of the build. Clear, high resolution photographs that allows one to really zoom in and see what and how you've done things! /Fredrik
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Thank you all!
You brought out as much or more in 1/48 scale than most could bring out in 1/32.
Wow, that is a modelers praise! :-*
Clear, high resolution photographs that allows one to really zoom in and see what and how you've done things!
I can deliver these pictures thanks to my great mFT camera GX7 and especially the HD 30 F2.8 macro. That lens is fantastic!
Do not miss the chance to see the gallery pictures in the completed section:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=11117.0
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank this is exceptional in every way. Some of those PE parts are so small that I would not be able to see them without a magnifier, and I would certainly not be able to handle them and get them into the correct places on the model. Brilliant modelling.
Stephen.
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Beautifully done!
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Absolutely brilliant Frank, your propeller is amazing. I have really enjoyed seeing this come together, you are a real master modeller!