forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => WW1 Aircraft Information/Questions => Topic started by: Black Max 72 on April 28, 2018, 04:35:23 PM
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Hi Gents
I'm currently embarking on prep for the Special Hobby 1/32 Bristol M.1c and as I'm sure you're all aware of the rather weak wing joint in the kit. I am looking for the various solutions that those who have completed the kit have come up with to rectify this problem, preferably with pics, so I can get an idea of what I'm up against. I've read several build reviews in various modelmaking magazines but frustratingly they describe but don't show the modifications they made. I'm also interested in what adhesives people have used as well. There are several constructions logs on the forum that I've seen but unfortunately most have suffered from the Photobucket debacle and I can't get an idea visually of what techniques have been employed. It's a pretty good kit, not up to WNW quality but still very nice it's just a shame they didn't put a little more thought into that wing joint, I definitely don't want to rely on what is pretty much a butt joint and the strength of the glue to hold those wings up!
Dave Rickard
Rockhampton QLD
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Hi Dave
When I made my Special Hobby Bristol M.1c last year I used Humbrol tube glue for the wing joints after considering brass tube inserts etc.
I'm happy with the finished result
(https://s19.postimg.cc/n6wsndm6r/IMG_0021.jpg)
I use rolled fuse wire for rigging and that added strength to the wing/ fuselage join.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pkeqee0lv/IMG_0023.jpg)
If it worries you, you could drill out the wing joint stubs and replace with brass tube or strong sprue but I feel tube glue is the way to go as it gives added strength but must be left a couple of days to set properly.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/cvkfupuhf/IMG_0017.jpg)
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
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I build mine when it came out, I used a variation on the pinning method.
I drilled all trough the fuselage and installed a tube (actually replacing 2 parts of the cockpit assambly)
and then inserted 2 pins on each wing. It took me quite a long time to figure out exactly where to drill so I could replace those cockpit parts, but it worked out in the end.
I also replaced the kingpost with a brass structure, soldered together for extra support with the structural rigging I used.
but basic drilling and pinning should work, I would recommend using structural rigging (fishing line or something else with strenght) for rigging the upper side anyway.
those wings are massive and heavy, you need that strenght.
my method may be a bit overkill, but it all worked and I will never worry about those wings!!
good luck and have fun, it is a great kit!
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I've found that Tamiya X-thin is extremely strong if left for a day or two to dry. The wire rigging would prolly be best for the long term to resist gravity.
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FWIW, I built the Alley Cat resin M1c, which has even heavier resin wings, but I used trusty old monofilament thread through the wings for structural landing and flying wires and all is safe and solid. I did however replace the rigging pylon with one made from Albion Alloys tubing for strength.
S
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Thank you everyone for your replies. It has given me a bit to think on. As I said, I'm only in the prep stage but thought it prudent to plan ahead. I've seen one build log on the internet where it appears that they made no changes and just relied on the glue and the wings appeared to maintain their dihedral but I think I will probably drill out the attachment stubs and replace with brass tubing. I was hoping to get away with using non structural rigging (EZ line) but I may have to rethink that approach as well.
Once again, thanks everyone
Dave Rickard
Rockhampton QLD
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I didn't reinforce mine but I did have the wings on pre painting. I tacked them in position with CA then used Tamiya extra thin to reinforce the join. I left it propped on two paint tins for a day.