forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Mike Norris on March 20, 2018, 08:21:25 PM
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Hi all,
I'm currently working on the Bleriot built Spad XIII C.1, Number 26 of ‘C’ flight, 27th Aero Squadron, 1st Pursuit Group, based at Rembercourt, near Verdun, France during September 1918. This was one of the Spad XIII’s flown by Francis ‘Frank’ Joseph Anthony Luke Jnr, the ‘Arizona Balloon Buster'.
This kit is the old Hobby Craft Spad XIII 'International' kit, which is I believe was the only 1:32 scale of the Spad XIII made. The kit was, as expected, fairly basic and had no engine at all. In fact the whole forward fuselage was blocked off.
I didn’t recall ever seeing this kit modeled with an engine installed, so I decided to give it a go.
The basic list of changes/additions to the model are:
Rudder, Ailerons and Elevator animated.
Louvres in engine panels opened.
Engine valve gear cooling fairings drilled.
Forward decking panel separated.
Radiator shutter control rods added.
Radiator drain valve added.
Engine cowl cooling apertures created.
Cockpit head rest support frame created.
Fuselage internal storage and cross members created.
Cockpit surround panel modified.
'Wingnut Wings' Hispano-Suiza V8 engine built (detail modified).
Forward fuselage, decking panel and cockpit floor modified.
Engine bulkhead scratch built.
Decking panel gun troughs modified.
Forward gun mounting brackets scratch built.
Engine access panels - changed to wire mesh.
Fuel filler modified.
Tyres spokes and valve added.
Ventral fuel tank cap modified.
Fuselage lifting straps added.
Fuel tank rip (jettison) panel added.
Oil cooler drain valve added.
Ring gun sight and mounting bar added.
Aileron operating controls
Undercarriage struts
Aftermarket additions:
'Aviattic' Spad XIII wheels (modified).
'HGW Models' seat belts.
'Gaspatch' .303 standard Vickers machine gun (modified).
'Gaspatch' Vickers ‘Balloon’ machine gun (modified).
'Gaspatch' turnbuckles.
'Albion Alloys' micro-tube.
'Steelon' mono-filament.
'Polak' grass mat.
'Aviattic' and Copper State' figures.
'Copper State' instruments bezels.
As usual I'm creating a downloadable build log in Adobe PDF format, for those who might want to use it. It will contain full and step by step descriptions of the model build and be supported with many photographs.
http://igavh2.xara.hosting/index.htm
The following shots are not described, but give you an idea of the changes being made to the model.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/5.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/6.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/7.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/8.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/9.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/10.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/11.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/12.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/13.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/14.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/15.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/16.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/17.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/18.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/19.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/20.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/21.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/22.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/23.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/24.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/25.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/26.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/27.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/28.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/29.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/30.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/31.jpg)
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i'm very much looking forward to this, i've got one of Luke's ships in the queue...
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Outstanding start to what I am sure will be a beauty. Looking forward to your progress (and PDF build log).
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Very interesting construction of a model of an important aircraft. I am very curious how that one will look when finished and I am sure that your build log will be highly informative and a great help when it comes to my Hobbycraft SPAD XIII.
Borsos
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Outstanding beginning to your build! This is the first time I remember seeing anyone trying to take this kit to the level you are going towards. I am looking forward to seeing more!!
RAGIII
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Nice start!
Steve
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A very impressive project, those old Hobby Craft Kits can be a real "bear" however you've already taken this one well beyond the mediocre results they normally provide. Really nice work thus far and I'll enjoy following your progress, I've got one of these in the Stash however haven't found the courage to have at it yet!
Cheers,
Lance
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Seriously awesome work thus far, Mike! Who needs WNW with your mad skills!
Cheers,
Bud
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Wow, impressive start and modifying!
Gaz
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Impressive!
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Really good beginning, I'm looking forward for the full project.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Another treat,great start Mike.
Cheers,
Dave.
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Beautiful job on the details
Terri
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Mike,
Beautiful surgery my friend. The SPAD XIII is my absolute favorite of all WWI Fighters. So you got my attention. Looking forward to seeing this project through. Well Done.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks for your encouraging comments.
This is proving to be a major rework of the kit and my PDF build log is up to 123 pages already and I've yet to put any paint down or start the actual build.
Currently I'm working on replacing the rather flimsy and I believe out of scale inboard wing struts.
These are in the early stages but are made from brass micro-tube, formed to an airfoil shape and soft soldered, with 0.5 mm micro-tube 'pins' to the wing location points.
The tricky part comes trying to add the various rigging points to the 'H' struts, as there are two flying wires and one landing wire at the centre of each side, plus the struts top and bottom cross bracing wires.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/webstruts5.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/09.jpg)
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Terrific start on the struts. You have skills that will make this process much easier! I will have to figure out how to use Smoke and Mirrors when I build mine 8)
RAGIII
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Forming the micro-tube into the airfoil shape is straight forward when using the 'Strutter' tool.
I think the Albion Alloys 'Model Skills' site (for this and other tools) has a problem as I can't access it right now - keep getting an error page.
However here's a link that shows it if you're interested.
http://www.redfroghobbies.com/productDetail.php?id=16197&item=The_Strutter
Mike
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This ship will be spectacular. I'm grateful you're documenting it so meticulously, as I will need all the help I can get when I attempt mine.
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Looking great, and really informative build, too!
We can all lean back and watch WNW release one, now that you're building this kit to this standard for us to view! :) Thanks in advance! :)
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Knowing my luck that's probably what will happen - I'll just finish the Spad and WNW will release a brand new kit :)
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In preparation for scratch building the wing mounted aileron operating bell-crank and rod assemblies, I've scratch build the wing rear outboard support struts, using brass micro-tube.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/outboardstrut.jpg)
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Your outboard struts look great. Just a word of caution here. Hobbycraft made their outboard struts just a tad too long to allow for wing warpage and state that they may need trimming so I hope you took this into account?
RAGIII
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Yeah I spotted that note on the instructions but thanks anyway.
The lower wing does bow slightly down at the wing tips due to the thin centre section.
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Excellent progress !!
Ed
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Well that's the 'H' strut, rear outboard strut with aileron operating rods and the aileron bell-crank, support and landing wire strap done for both sides.
Maybe soon I can actually start build the model!!
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/crankassembly.jpg)
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That is really awesome!
RAGIII
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That is really awesome!
RAGIII
I agree 100%
Borsos
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Mike,
My friend I'm speechless. But amazed at the detail you're building in to your SPAD. Well Done!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Those struts are great!
Gaz
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Starting to add corner rigging fittings for the wing and cabane struts - fiddly but worth it I hope.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/rigattach2.jpg)
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Excellent detail work. Keep it coming!
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Beautiful work on struts.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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I will stick with my last comment. "Awesome Work " on the fittings!
RAGIII
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Just wow, there is some hardcore modelling going on here, will be watching with great interest.
Excellent work so far!
Cheers
Ondra
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nice!
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That is some amazing brass work!
Gaz
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Your work with brass will pay off with a nicely rigged model. The bell crank and the struts look great and will certainly enhance the model. Looking forward to you actually getting into the assembly part. All good stuff.
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Hi all,
I've completed work on the wing struts now. The following shots show the inner wing 'H' struts and the outer struts and cabane struts with all of the rigging fittings attached.
Now I can move onto the locations for the rest of the wing and undercarriage rigging!!
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/hstrutfin.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/strutsfin.jpg)
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Wow, the work on those struts are out of this world (along with the rest of the build).
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It will be a more than decent Spad when your finished!
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Excellent results on the rigging attachments! If you ever go into model conversion/correction business I could use a set of these ::)
RAGIII
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Hi all,
Still working my way through pre-build modifications.
All of the required rigging fittings are done now.
Now I'll be starting on the engine proper.
Below is a shot of the pipes fairing, which covered the pipes from the upper wing centre section down to the decking panel.
It was made of linen, wrapped around the three pipes and stitched at the trailing edge. It was meant to give some environmental protection for the fuel and coolant pipes inside.
I've modified this to have the angled slot, through which the left cabane strut cross-bracing wire passed. Also I've added the fourth exposed pipe line, which is not supplied in the kit.
Not all Spad XIII's retained this fairing as I guess it restricted the pilot's view. However the Spad of Frank Luke I'm making had the fairing fitted.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/extrapipe.jpg)
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Continuing to be awesome!
RAGIII
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Some really impressive work Mike, in particular the soldered replacement struts. Quick question if I may, does the Albion "Strutter" handle various diameters of brass tubing or just the size you are using?
Cheers,
Lance
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Hi Lance,
The Strutter is basically two separate hardened steel jaws with one jaw having two steel pins fitted that align with holes in the other jaw. You slide the jaws together and place in a vice. Pick your tube size and ideally insert an appropriate solid rod. Then lay the rod across the two pins in the jaws with the outer tube between the pins and tighten the vice. The tube is deformed around the rod to form the shape as the two jaws tip slightly when tightened.
Basically you can use any size of micro-tube and rod - it really depends how strong you and the vice are - the larger the tube the more force is required.
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Nice! Thanks for the 'strutter' talk. Very useful.
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Thanks for the detailed information on the "Strutter", Mike. I've been considering this tool for years and, after seeing your work here, ordered one last night. Not a small price however I think it will get good use!
Cheers,
Lance
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Hi Lance,
Your welcome.
Yes not cheap and especially shipping to Canada (weight cost), but I think you will get a lot of use out of it.
Originally I bought the Strutter for when I build my larger WNW kits (Felixstowe, Gotha etc) - for constucting undercarriages and wing struts etc.
That said I've only used it on my Fokker EV and the Spad so far, but the combination of brass tube and rod plus either soft solder or CA adhesive (VMS - Flexy 5 CA) makes for a much stronger structural strength.
You might have noticed on their site, if you get onto it, that they also sell pre-cut micro-tube for either 1:32 or 1:48 scale turnbuckles - not a bad price if you don't want to cut them yourself.
Mike.
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At first I want to express my compliments for building the old Hobbycraft SPAD in such a great manner. I especially love the work on the struts.
Secondly I also can only recommend the Strutter. I frequently use it not just for squeezing brass tube but also for squeezing veneer for carving wooden props.
Borsos
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At first I want to express my compliments for building the old Hobbycraft SPAD in such a great manner. I especially love the work on the struts.
Secondly I also can only recommend the Strutter. I frequently use it not just for squeezing brass tube but also for squeezing veneer for carving wooden props.
Borsos
Borsos,
Brilliant, I hadn't thought of that however since I laminate and carve most of my own props it will get a lot of use there as well, Thanks!
Cheers,
Lance
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Spectacular work, Mike!
Cheers,
Bud
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Amazing Mike!
This is in the category of serious modelling that is beyond my skills but which I admire and aspire too.
Thanks for sharing,
Alistair
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Hi all,
I've completed the basic engine for the Spad XIII. It's a Wingnut Wings Hispano-Suiza engine for their SE5a, which I've heavily modified to represent the Hispano-Suiza fitted to the Spad XIII.
Modifications carried out:
Forward engine support beams.
Air intake for the carburettor manifold.
Coolant filler and return pipe assembly.
Coolant return pipes from manifold and both cylinder blocks.
Manifold fuel intake primer valves.
Ignition leads.
Ignition lead support tubes.
Ignition lead connections to both magnetos.
Coolant temperatures sensor.
Forward external gear oil supply pipes.
Forward camshaft external oil supply pipes.
Air breather valve and pipe.
The following will be fitted on engine installation into the fuselage:
Carburettor control linkage.Coolant temperatures sensor.
Fuel pipe connection to carburettor.
Coolant supply connection to filler and return assembly.
Now it's on to the cockpit detailing!!
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/E1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/E2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/E3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/E4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/E5.jpg)
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Great engine!
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Excellent!
RAGIII
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Mike,
Outstanding work on her Hisso my friend. I can appreciate the work to took to modify the WNW Hispano-Suiza for the SPAD XIII. It would have been much easier task for a SPAN XII (37 mm Canon Armed). Of course it would much more work on the fuselage though. Keep up the excellence and keep those updates coming.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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This is a brilliant build.
Cheers
Syd
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Nice!
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Excellent work!!
Steve
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Hi all,
Moving onto the cockpit detailing now.
The kit lacks certain pipes so again, these were made from various sized micro-tubes and soft soldered where required.
The shot below shows these pipes dry fitted and prior to painting.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/cockpitpipes.jpg)
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Terrific work on this kit, particularly the modifications to the engine.
Bill
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Hi all,
The cockpit is finished now and the fuselage closed up. As usual most of the modifications etc can't be seen once the 'lid' is fitted but hey-ho.
The last three shots show the 'lid' and engine dry fitted.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/finpit1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/finpit2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/finpit3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/finpit4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/finpit5.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/finpit6.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/finpit7.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/SPAD13/finpit8.jpg)
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Mike,
Absolutely beautiful my friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Stunning work all around. Instruments, wood tones, added details, and the engine are all Brilliant!
RAGIII
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The detailing is outstanding. Looking forward to see what else you have in your bag of magic.
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That is some great detailing! I can almost see those dials moving!
Gaz
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Well.... WOW... Just WOW!
Cheers
Ondra
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Hi all,
Many thanks for your support and comments - its appreciated, especially given how complex the changes to the basic model were.
I forgot to mention the changes carried out internally to the cockpit:
Mike
- Fuel, oil and vent pipes
- Cockpit frame wire bracing
- Additional instrumentation
- Instruments pipes/cables
- Gun firing cables
- Fuel rip panel T-bar handle
- Mallet (freeing gun stoppages)
- Pilot's seat cushion
- Rudder bar foot straps
- Top frame above pilot's head
- Rudder, Aileron and Elevator cables
- Pilot’s seat belts.
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Like I said earlier in this thread I have never seen this kit built to this standard of detail before!
RAGIII
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As a relative newcomer to the site, I continue to be amazed by the quality of inspirational work I am finding. This is very impressive work so far, especially on the struts. Very well done indeed!
I have the Roden SPAD VII in my stash and your work with the struts will give me lots of good ideas when I get round to that one.
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Very nice work. Looks better and better as it all comes together.
Steve
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Your detailing is superb and looks nothing like what is included in the box, a testament of your skills.
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Hi all,
Well I'm onto construction and painting at last!!
First off is to represent the internal structure on the underside (CDL) surfaces.
Although most photographs of the Spad show very little 'see trough' from the underside, I wanted to give this effect, otherwise the look would be very 'flat'.
That said, applying the masking took a lot of time and patience but much quicker taking it all off!!
This shot is the airbrushed effect, but has yet to be 'knocked back' and weathered.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/cdlmask.jpg)
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Looking forward to the end result - that WAS a lot of masking!!
Steve
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Looking forward to the end result - that WAS a lot of masking!!
Steve
Agreed!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
Yeah it was.
I've over sprayed to 'knock' it back.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/cdlmasking3.jpg)
So now on goes the clay wash for weathering.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/cdlwash.jpg)
Mike
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Outstanding job on the masking. your in progress photos are interesting. I am on the edge of my seat to see the next phase of your painting processes!
RAGIII
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Mike,
Outstanding progress my friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Looking forward to seeing how that underside comes out. I think with these canvas birds, highlighting the structure is very important.
Gaz
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Hi all,
Photographs of Frank Luke Jnr's Spad ‘26’ of the 27th Aero Squadron show evidence of surface dirt and paint chipped surfaces and it looking to be in a fairly ‘war weary’ condition. Therefore I decided to create this ‘dirty’ effect with the weathering on the CDL surfaces. As usual I used a fine 'grime' clay wash from 'Flory Models' to create the effect. The clay wash is very simple to use and you can add or remove as much as you like using a dry or a damp brush, then seal it all with a top coat of appropriate sealer.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/cdlwash2.jpg)
Mike
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Excellent results! War weary indeed.
RAGIII
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Very realistic. The best build of this kit I have ever seen!
Borsos
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Hi all,
The underside is finished now so it's onto the topside camouflage colour scheme now.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/belly2.jpg)
Mike
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Great work, Mike. The shading looks really great. Looking forward to your next steps.
Bye, Manni
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Hi all,
Thanks.
The three figures are done now.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/figdone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/figdone2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/figdone3.jpg)
Mike
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Nicely done figures
RAGIII
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This will all look very good when it comes together. I like your use of the Flory wash. I tried these for the first time on a 1/35 Mark V Female and was very impressed with the effects that are obtainable. You've used it to great effect on this build.
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This build is just awesome. Can anybody explain me what’s the special thing with these “Flory” washes?
Thanks
Borsos
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Hi Boros,
Some years ago Phil Flory of 'Flory Models' developed a range of washes which are extremely fine clay pigments in fluid.
These washes come in various shades and consist of a very fine clay pigment. They are brushed over the surface to be weathered and dry in around 30 minutes. When dry, use either a piece of good, absorbent kitchen roll or a brush used for oil paint (as the bristles are harder than normal painting brushes) to remove as much of the clay wash as you need to achieve the desired effect. Once dampened, the dried clay is re-activated and the clay wash can be removed or worked as required.
First I seal the surface with airbrushed Alclad Klear Light Sheen (ALC-311), which dries quickly. A gloss coat tends to stop the clay wash ‘gripping’ the surface when it is applied and it can run off or just puddle. A matte coat can cause the clay wash to ‘grip’ too much, making it very difficult to remove or even to wash it off completely.
To apply the clay wash is just a matter of brushing all over the surface to be weathered. It doesn’t matter really how much is applied and it can be left on for any period of time, as it is
easily removed without any effect on the surface underneath. The washes I tend to use are Flory Clay Wash ’Grime’ and ’Dark Dirt’ .
I use an oil brush to brush off the clay wash, but for smearing effects, an only very slightly damp brush or absorbent paper can be used, but even then I dab them onto a dry piece of the paper. That’s how ‘damp’ it needs to be. Any wetter and you’ll find that you are removing too much of the clay wash. If that happens you would have to re-apply the wash and start again.
That said, if you not happy with the final effect, you can easily remove the clay wash by brushing with a wet brush or even airbrush water over the surface. Dry off the surfaces washed and then re-apply the clay wash and try again until you are satisfied.
The technique is to brush over the surface to re-activate the clay wash and at the same time, to smear it over areas that had no clay wash. It’ll dry more or less straight away.
Then I’ll very lightly stiff brush and/or use a piece of damp absorbent paper or brush to remove as much as I want until I get the desired effect. If I remove too much I just reapply clay wash to that area and repeat the removal procedure.
Once finished, just run the brush under a tap to rinse out any residual clay pigments.
Finally I seal the surface with airbrushed Alclad Klear Light Sheen (ALC-311), which will seal in the applied clay wash.
NOTE: Flory washes can be mixed to create other colour blends.
Flory Home page (washes etc are in the P & M link)
http://www.florymodels.co.uk/
Mike
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Thanks for the info and link. Very interesting and something I will try
RAGIII
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Thank you very much for this information, Mike! that sounds exactly like what I am looking for for quite a long time. I have checked the website and watched the video — I‘ll definitely get some bottles of that stuff.
Best regards
Borsos
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Yes thanks for that.
Figs look great!
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One important thing to remember is to decant the wash from the bottle - don't dip your brush into the bottle as the wash is easily contaminated with residue from paints, thinners etc - any contamination will turn the wash thick and unusable.
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Figures look great!
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One important thing to remember is to decant the wash from the bottle - don't dip your brush into the bottle as the wash is easily contaminated with residue from paints, thinners etc - any contamination will turn the wash thick and unusable.
Thanks again for the hint!
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Hi all,
The Upper surface camouflage is done with the engine, rudder and forward 'mesh' grills fitted.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/fuscamo.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/wingcamo.jpg)
Mike
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Absolutely gorgeous work! Painting weathering and markings are awesome! The downside is I don't think I will ever build mine after seeing yours ;D
RAGIII
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Absolutely gorgeous work! Painting weathering and markings are awesome!
Again, I've gotta agree with my Amigo, Mike!
Cheers,
Bud
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Beautiful work Mike, your handy work is certainly paying off.
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Outstanding work Mike, you are making a difficult Kit look easy! I'll be following closely as you take this gem to even greater heights!
Cheers,
Lance
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Mike,
Pardon my language,but damn she looks absolutely beautiful my friend. Keep up the high excellence!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Mike,
That some sweet paint and weathering!
Gaz
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Looking very good. I do like your approach to the weathering. Will definitely have to try that approach.
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Mike, You are making the Hobbycraft kit look like something from Wingnuts. Thanks for showing us the potential of this kit.
Kevin
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Extraordinary! You are doing wonders with that kit!
Borsos
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Hi all,
Many thanks for your encouraging comments - much appreciated.
The engine bay is done now, apart from the upper wing to engine fuel and coolant pipes and the cabane strut to engine bulkhead cross bracing wires, which can't be installed until the upper wing is fitted.
The last details I've added are:
The supply pipe from the pipe block at the rear of the radiator to right of the bulkhead (cockpit water temperature gauge).
The two 'stay' rods attached from the fuselage sides to the rear of the gun cooling jackets.
The throttle control rod from the bulkhead to carburetor.
The rear 'bead' sight for the guns forward 'ring' sight.
The engine radiator and cowl assembly.
The standard Vickers .303 machine gun.
The 11 mm Vickers (Colt) 'Balloon' gun.
The windscreen.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/bay1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/bay2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/bay3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/bay4.jpg)
Its now onto working the wing support struts prior to fitting the upper wing.
Mike
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::)
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Dee-cent!
Working that kit over nicely.
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Continuing to be a Brilliant example of Modeling skill and attention to detail!
RAGIII
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Really exceptional detail in that last update Mike. This just keeps getting better and better every time I check in. Very impressive modelling and a pleasure to follow along!
Cheers,
Lance
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Magnificent!
Cheers,
Bud
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Awesome looking, even close up!
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Words are beginning to fail me here, incredibly impressive!
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WOW.
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This thread is a feast to modellers' eyes! Great, great, great all around.
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Hi all,
Just a small update as I'm waiting for turnbuckles to arrive.
I've filled the time working on a few minor bits, such as display base accessories and the wheels, and fitting the exhaust pipes with micro-tube support brackets, the foot step and at the rear the fuselage lifting straps.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/pipesdone.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/pipeson.jpg)
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Even your small updates are Brilliant 8)
RAGIII
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"Brilliant" is the propper word for what you are doing here. Your detail work is awesome!
Borsos
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(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/wheelsdone.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/breatherdone.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/barrel.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/fueldrum.jpg)
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More impressive work. Really looking forward to the finished article.
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Brilliant updates, it's going to be another stunning model. And a mass of very useful tips.
Thank you for sharing.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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More impressive work. Really looking forward to the finished article.
I certainly agree with Nigel!
RAGIII
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Catching up on very nice work!!
Steve
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Hi all,
Just as an update, I'm working on the final rigging and once that's done I should be finished, apart from the propeller, which be on in a couple of weeks,
Mike
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Hi all,
Getting close now - rigging, aileron controls and propeller and it's done,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/Spad13.jpg)
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AWESOME! I am certainly looking forward to seeing your SPAD rigged!
RAGIII
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This is turning out beautifully, just keep those spiders away from your work (LOL ;D). Gorgeous.
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It is indeed looking very, very good. Not long now....!
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Absolutely amazing, Mike. I can't wait to see more pictures...
Andreas
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Lovely Mike ;)
Guy
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Sweet!
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Really great, Mike. I'm looking forward for your next update!
Bye,
Manni
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This is turning into the best Spad XIII I have ever seen built.
Thumbs up, great work.
Cheers
Ondra
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Hi all,
The Spad XIII is finished so I've posted in the Completed forum.
Thanks to everyone for your support through this extended build,
Mike
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An outstanding build log and I learned quite a bit along the way. More in the completed Model section later.
RAGIII
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Nice final steps!!
Steve
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(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/ODDS/breatherdone.jpg)
Hi!
Excellent work!
Now you've made me want to resume mine!!!
What have you used for the filler cap???
Ciao
IWik
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Hi Iwik,
Some think this cap was a fuel filler, but the pipe runs down inside the right side of the cockpit then forwards and across to the lower rear of the engine. The pipe seems to be attached to the oil pump housing, so I believe this pipe was the engine crankcase breather pipe, to relive excess air pressure built up inside the engine.
The pipe into which the breather cap is fitted was made from brass micro-tube. The breather cap (kit item C9) is molded as a solid piece, whereas the actual cap had breather holes around the top of the cap.
To replicate this cap I cut away the stem from the kit part and drilled a 0.7 mm diameter hole up into the cap body. Into this I secured a short length of 0.6 mm micro-tube using CA adhesive. The cap was then drilled around the top edge with a 0.3 mm diameter drill to recreate the vent holes. The cap was brush painted with ‘Mr. Metal Colour’ Stainless Steel (213). I then inserted the new stem into the fuselage pipe and secured it in position using thin CA adhesive.
Mike
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Posted in wrong thread - Moved to my W.29 build thread.
Mike
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UMMM ....... might want to slip this over to your W.29 Thread Mike! ;)
Cheers,
Lance
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Oops - thanks - will do,
Mike