forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: GB on January 15, 2018, 02:59:43 PM
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Given that I had sooooo much fun building the E.II, thought it'd be rude not to keep the ball rolling and dive straight into another kit. Another xmas prezzie from teh wife, this time a W12.
I seem to recall that many, many years ago, I built an Airfix Short Sunderland so this will be only my second float plane ever.....
(https://i.imgur.com/igrcuFy.jpg)
This time I'm adding a few little trinkets. The jury is out on the Spandau cooling jackets at this stage as they seem a little too 'heavy', but we'll see when we get to that stage.
(https://i.imgur.com/zo5WLqC.jpg)
One thing I have never ever done, is the hex camo so any advice on applying these will be greatly appreciated - please chime in with your recommendations :D
Gary
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Cool, Gary.
I will take a seat and popcorn and try to learn a bit. Will be an other great build by you.
Bye,
Manni
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Great choice Gary, looking forward to your progress.
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Gary,
It is indeed a great choice and I look forward to the results! I built this a while back for our Diorama Group Build (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=7714.msg141824#msg141824) and it proved typical of the Wingnut Wings brand, a magnificent Kit and very enjoyable Build. There are a few "pitfalls" along the way however nothing insurmountable. Have you chosen a scheme yet?
Cheers,
Lance
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Welcome along gentlemen. I shall try not to disappoint :D
Lance - thanks for the link. Will be referring to your blog for sure!
Made a start last night - no pics for now. Just started removing the cockpit main parts from the sprues. Looks like a majority of the HGW interior stuff is a waste of time. The wood effect panels for everything aside from the fuselage interior are essentially just a plain colour with no grain effect. Not sure if it's a printing issue or designed that way, but will be resorting back to good old fashioned painting of those parts.
Some nice PE parts, but will only be using those necessary. AM is nice, but doesn't always guarantee any improvement.
I've also decided to order a set of Aviattic faded naval hex decals given the positive feedback about them on this site.
Gary
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Well, the good news guys is that I nake the mistakes so you don't have to :P
The wood grain effect parts in the HGW set are only good enough for the bin. All of them.
As I mentioned earlier, the interior panels are poor depictions of wood and they are also just printed paper. The panels which go inside the fuselage sides are also glossy paper but don't even fit anywhere near close :o
(https://i.imgur.com/Ct3Zcpc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ASfwvNK.jpg)
I'm at a complete loss as to how HGW can sell this as an upgrade - let alone call it a 'High Quality Set'. I honestly feel as if I've been mugged. BIG lesson learnt here.
Anyway, the old fashioned way of acrylics and oils it is ;D
Parts removed from the sprues ready for paint....
(https://i.imgur.com/lN6kMjg.jpg)
Gary
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Gary, wait! In a set that I have used on my Fe.2b, the "paper" was a precut decal on it's carrier paper. May be it is the same point here.
Bye,
Manni
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Hi Manni
It may well be, but it still doesn't fit. It really is a poor design and not worth the $. Paint is certainly a better option.
Gary
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Hi Manni
It may well be, but it still doesn't fit. It really is a poor design and not worth the $. Paint is certainly a better option.
Gary
Gary,
If it is a pre-cut decal than some trimming isn't to be unexpected as it's better to be a touch oversize than too small.
Pre-cut decals (if that's what they are) - albeit a touch oversize are still far more convenient than doing it yourself from a basic wood-grain decal sheet.
Regards
Russell
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I guess a lack of knowledge of HGW stuff hasn't helped. I get the oversizing, but design is still to be desired and I'd expect better - maybe I'm bei g too picky!
Anyway, made a start on painting the wood last night. Will get some piccies this evening.
Gary
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Wasn't happy with the way the wood effect came out so ended up stripping the parts back to bare styrene. Will start again over the weekend....
Gary
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Slightly off track (though it is sea plane related!). Model Shop about 2hrs north of me has closed down. Stock was bought up by my LHS and they were selling kits at 50% off. Guess what I scored?
(http://i.imgur.com/fNsDBfr.jpg) (https://imgur.com/fNsDBfr)
I'm a pretty happy chappy I have to say 8) 8)
Gary
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Outstanding find! Looking forward to when you tackle them!
RAGIII
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I do think I need to question my sanity for buying something so intricate when I've just made the switch to aircraft :o
Anyway, on with the current build and I have some photos at last.
For the wood effect, I'm trying some different oils this time. Winsor and Newton Griffin Alkyd. The acrylics I tried dry way too fast, but these are just right. Touch dry (with the little amount I'm using anyway) in a few hours and you can speed that up further by adding some Liquin.
So, I used Tamiya Flat Flesh in this instance followed by a clear coat. Then I added Raw Sienna and created the grain effect with a piece of sponge. When dry, a couple of coats of clear yellow followed.
I ended up using the PE bezel surrounds form the HGW set for the instruments while the 'glass' is Micro Kristal Klear.
For the engine support section, I utilised chipping fluid to recreate the worn effect.
(https://i.imgur.com/aT0Ee57.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ltmeJAM.jpg)
Gary
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Map case and camera added....
(https://i.imgur.com/ZpvVt1P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IpQffrD.jpg)
Fuselage interiors prepped....
(https://i.imgur.com/Rplobba.jpg)
Gary
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I like the subtle wood effect! Very nice results on the pit to date!
RAGIII
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Thanks RAGIII
First attempt at HGW belts....
(https://i.imgur.com/9dnUu0A.jpg)
Decided that the PE coils were too flat and didn't really look that good, so replaced them with .010 lead wire wound round a drill bit and then coiled around a larger bit. Belts were then constructed as per instructions. Just need a little weathering before they are fitted.
Gary
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Looking good, like what you have done thus far and looking forward to your progress.
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The belts look great. I guess I need to give the ones I feared to start a try ::)
RAGIII
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Thanks Juan.
RAGIII. They aren't as difficult as you might expect. I complicated things a little with the coil, but it does make a huge improvement IMHO.
Belts weathered and fitted....
(https://i.imgur.com/FBtUYsu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ty8hyTu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LFAYRDg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TOKvsgN.jpg)
Gary
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Gary,
Wow! The belts and wood are superb! I'll be following your progress closely, I've built this kit and it's no "push over', you are really doing it justice and more. 8) 8) 8)
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks Lance :)
Cockpit side frames now in place....
(https://i.imgur.com/7o8Jg7p.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iPDcomJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QV2JRPh.jpg)
Gary
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Your cockpit is looking terrific! I am looking forward to your next update.
RAGIII
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Very nice progress. And I totally agree: the new coils make the belts looking even better. Great idea!
Borsos
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Everything thus far is looking great, the seatbelts are little works of art.
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Looking great -I'll shamelessy steal your idea for improving the seatbelts when I eventually get to a two-seater!
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Thanks guys.
Controls next. HGW provide some PE aileron linkages, but the part is actually too long for the kit part???? However, it didn't go to waste. I removed the moulded on triangular brace on the rear of the styrene part, replacing it with the HGW part with the'cables' removed. The WNW PE part is then fitted to the front...
(https://i.imgur.com/TdIWsBk.jpg)
Once painted, along with the rudder bar, Ezi Line is added for the controls cables and painted steel colour....
(https://i.imgur.com/NCDSpWC.jpg)
Wheel yet to be added (need to add some cabling to the MG trigger on it), but other parts are fitted and cables carfeully threaded along their respective routes....
(https://i.imgur.com/MknP9KV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kIaFdkW.jpg)
Gary
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Great work, Gary. The colours look so right and the seatbelts are perfect.
Bye,Manni
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Thanks Manni.
Column wheel is added along with MG firing cable....
(https://i.imgur.com/NBhWQcI.jpg)
Ammo box is then fitted along with instrument panel....
(https://i.imgur.com/Vxk8pkl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ffct1Xn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OC6NSNw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kn7Dwp9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mWkxNqH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NFA22Gd.jpg)
Onto the Bz.III engine next. I've removed most of the parts from the sprues, but it is going to need a fair bit of TLC to get a decent looking motor. Magnetos have some sink marks, upper crank case has a mismoulding which prevents one of the intake pipes from fitting correctly. One half of the cylinders has the rocker rods moulded into them - fortunately there is another half where they aren't, though it's not referred to as an option in the instructions. Adding your own rods looks simple enough though. All part of the fun ;D
Gary
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Excellent progress! All is looking beautiful!
RAGIII
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Lovely work Gary,
Brings back happy memories of my own build a few years back.....Copper State Models have a few excellent quality resin crew figures wearing life jackets /buoyancy aids which would complement the model.
Will follow your build with interest....watch out for the tricky lozenge on the floats ;)
Dave :)
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Thanks Dave. Was only looking at those figures the other day. Will see....
Onto the engine next. This is going to need a fair bit of work to get a decent representation of the Bz.III motor. Given the high level of detail elsewhere, I'm a little disappointed as to how basic this motor is in places.
I've opted to ditch part E4 as it has the rocker rods moulded in situ - fortunately part E7 is on the sprue as a replacement without the rods....
(https://i.imgur.com/DPmG7py.jpg)
The inlet pipes have basic clamps moulded on so am removing these and replacing them with lead foil. Also, the pipe assemblies, E11 & 12 need a bit of filler at the base to blend in with the crank case. I also had a little issue where the aperture for one side had an exytra piece of styrene in it preventing fitment so that had to be removed first. I'm adding some subtle cast texture with Mr Surfacer.
(https://i.imgur.com/qtI1cW4.jpg)
Perhaps the biggest disappointment is with with the rocker arms themselves. Absolutely no attempt at spring detail...
(https://i.imgur.com/pogUaJN.jpg)
... so these will need to be reworked given their prominence right on top of the motor in full view. I've searched for some AM items without success so will have to scratch build most of the detail.
Gary
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Looking forward to seeing what you do with the Motor!
RAGIII
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Wait no longer ;D
Here are the rockers in place as WnW intended....
(https://i.imgur.com/WMT18L6.jpg)
This is my take on them....
(https://i.imgur.com/csCxNGu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TVKkkWA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Q3fMXIK.jpg)
The connecting rods are just dry fitted at this stage.
I first of all cut the surplus styrene from the rocker arm leaving the required detail including the 'cup' at the top of the spring. The spring is made by winding .010 lead wire around styrene rod and then cut to length. The supporting arms are made from brass tube and fusewire. Connecting rods are also fusewire.
Only 5 more cylinders to go....
Also, intake pipework done....
(https://i.imgur.com/Us1W6ay.jpg)
Gary
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Great work on the interior and the engine detailing. A lot to learn from. Thanks!
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Wow those upgrades look outstanding. That is going to be a great looking engine (to go along with a great looking plane).
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Great work on the rocker assemblies Gary, the valve springs really add to the effect as well. This is the sort of detail that takes a model out of the ordinary and you are doing a great job of it. Looking forward to seeing more!
Cheers,
Lance
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Valve springs are definite improvement! Looking great!
RAGIII
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Thanks gents :D
WIP - thopugh the macro lens always shows up some shortfalls! :-\ Will need to straighten out a couple of rocker arms by the looks of it....
(https://i.imgur.com/x7cuMlv.jpg)
I didn't go as far as researching the firing order of this engine, but I have set a few of the arms at different angles as they would be to open/close the valves.
Gray
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Ended up using brass for the pushrods. At the top end, I added a small sleeve (heat stretched cotton buds tubing) and at the base, I've tried to replicate the cups as per images of the real thing....
(https://i.imgur.com/dSvmiLb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WmkxDaJ.jpg)
Gary
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Your take is MUCH better.
Nice work!
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That cockpit is so beautiful!
I wish I could pull something like this off.
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The additional detail on your engine is outstanding.
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Really great detail there...
Guy
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Thanks guys.
And we have ignition (at least on one side)....
(https://i.imgur.com/tYj1oTK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ULuM7mn.jpg)
Gary
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This is really very impressive Gary. I have this kit and will follow along with interest particularly given your many modifications.
Cheers
Alistair
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Thanks Al.
Ready for paint next....
(https://i.imgur.com/UoiLdYZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aNa23rc.jpg)
I'm not 100% happy with the results TBH, but good enough. I'll try a different approach I think when I build the W.29 I have in the stash.
Gray
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Hi Gary, not sure what you're not happy with, but from where I sit it looks pretty good. Looking forward to seeing the engine with paint. What size did you use for the brass rods, really looks good.
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Thanks Juan. Not sure of the size. Just some brass tubing in the spares box which was a suitable size.
Painted and weathered....
(https://i.imgur.com/jAChUSs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fzgAfeZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6AHwsCl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YgHa4ly.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lR0Fy8W.jpg)
Gary
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Complete outstanding Motor Gary,
I like the different positions of the valve lifters. Just great!
Manni
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Not far from being acceptable for a 2nd airplane build... Kidding aside, that engine is breathtaking and gives so much life to the kit part. You are doing a fantastic job, Gary!
Borsos
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That engine is simply superb.
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Not far from being acceptable for a 2nd airplane build... Kidding aside, that engine is breathtaking and gives so much life to the kit part. You are doing a fantastic job, Gary!
Borsos
I agree with Andreas completely!
RAGIII
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Complete outstanding Motor Gary,
I like the different positions of the valve lifters.
As someone who works on old engines, they are giving me the collywobbles
As a modeller, I think they are great!
Richard
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Thanks gents - greatly appreciated.
Engine and cockpit assemblies are joined together. Added some fuel lines and a rod from the throttle. Not accurate, but fills the void and will be hard to see when the cowling is on....
(https://i.imgur.com/EH0m4Ay.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FH7ap5l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ESV408s.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/awAxKVN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Q7QCj3u.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CCbtLJU.jpg)
Wasn't that happy with the kit's rendering of the 250 round Parabellum drums. Aside from the 'rounds' being very thinly moulded, they actually sit outside the circumfernace of the outer discs - every photo I've seen see them sitting inside. After some initial head scratching, I used the photoetch circular discs from an Eduard Parabellum set and used an ammo belt I had left over from a A7V tank build. Still need to make up the second drum...
(https://i.imgur.com/MQs8u68.jpg)
Gary
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Your cockpit and engine look gorgeous all assembled! Beautiful!
RAGIII
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Thanks RAGIII :)
Fuselage halves are joined together. As expected, perfect fitment - well almost. Pretty much guarantee that it was down to me, but I ended up with a small gap between the halves between the pilot and observer's openings. I did remove the paint from the outer face of the bulkhead, but fear that the paint inside the fuselage itself may be the issue. So I just used a thin piece of styrene as a shim. Everything else was fine and needed just a run of Mr Surfacer along the joins and when dry, a rub with some wet and dry paper. The radiator is dry fitted at this stage....
(https://i.imgur.com/TnU8dhu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DCsKEsB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/92bFOM3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CJzYn9e.jpg)
Gary
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Rad painted and fixed in place along with top coolant hose. On the side, I've removed the MG from its mount to make painting easier and 'windows' underneather have been fitted and masked. Wings are dry fitted at this stage....
(https://i.imgur.com/4DmSQWv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EpFUTMv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3Dsx8Bo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/99VIpwl.jpg)
Gary
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Wow Gary, coming along quite nicely. I really like your build.
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Looks fantastic all together! I am looking forward to the next update.
RAGIII
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Thanks guys.
Onto some paint. Plenty of masking required here! Front end gets a very light coat of XF83 which shows up any imperfections. I then use 1000 grit paper soaked in water to sand required areas smooth, respray and resand as required.....
(https://i.imgur.com/5znIizG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Yle5xmM.jpg)
Gary
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As careful as I was, some rivet detail was lost during sanding. Easy fix using Archer resin decals...
(https://i.imgur.com/evP9CmU.jpg)
Not easy to see, granted, but the line running over the top of the fuselage behind the observers station has been replaced with the Archer decals...
(https://i.imgur.com/aUYWhtX.jpg)
Gary
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Tidy work! Nice idea on the sponge/foam material, too to stuff the openings. So far I've used masking tape and liquid masks, this looks easier though.
I have loads of that stuff around as my wife works in a laboratory.
Engine looks great, too!
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Thanks jeroen_R90S. Yep, sponge is much easier in some circumstances than masking with tape!
Small update. The scheme I'm doing has a grey square behind the national marking on the fuselage and despite being shown on the colour plate and being plainly visible in period photos, no mention is made in the instructions??? So I simply masked off a square and applied a slightly darker shade of grey. I've also applied the hex camo decal to the rear horizontal surface. I simply applied Tamiya Gloss White from a rattle can as the basecoat.....
(https://i.imgur.com/60FnKxH.jpg)
Not the easiest to apply and it did required some decal solution to help the decal curve and adhere to the outer edges.
I can see that the hex decals on the wings are going to be fun :-\
Gary
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More decals....
(https://i.imgur.com/uZoGLGq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RX33S7e.jpg)
There is a small gap where the top fuselage and rear horizontal surface decals don't quite meet. When the vertical surface is cemented in place, it will require a little filler at that point and I'll use the piece of spare section WNW provide to try to make a seemless join between the two parts.
Gary
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Decals are sealed in with a couple of coats of acrylic floor polish and fuselage is now ready for some weathering...
(https://i.imgur.com/xXA7LhZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bmw05vw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uNdEIwa.jpg)
Gary
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Elevators and rudder get some paint along with their respective decals and dry fitted....
(https://i.imgur.com/QS8tAWy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gtIk7pH.jpg)
Gary
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Dreading this part, but thankfully, I seem to have pulled it off....
(https://i.imgur.com/xXCzrkr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QxGjrSP.jpg)
I used cold water (as per WNW tips page) and allowed the backing paper to fall away leaving the decal floating on the top of the water. The wing was then put in and lifted up onto the decal from underneath. I found this allowed me to more easily move the decal into position before it started to adhere to the wing preventing any movement. Unconventional, but worked for me ;D
And the undersides...
(https://i.imgur.com/qs6UUYp.jpg)
Not easy to see, but the white squares are painted with a slight off white leaving a brighter white bordering the black crosses....
Gary
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That was a LOT of updating! Your painting is gorgeous and the decaling superb in all respects. You certainly mastered the wings and fuselage lozenge!
RAGIII
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Thanks RAGIII.
Upper wings. What fun! Not sure WNW could make it any more complicated with joins all over the show which need to be filled and sanded. I used CA gel to fill the gaps as it tends to be a bit more resistant to crackling....
(https://i.imgur.com/1KA6O67.jpg)
Masking tape covered the ribs while sanding to help prevent accidental damage to them.
(https://i.imgur.com/V2j13qE.jpg)
Underneath, joins run right through the ribs making it very difficult to hide them though, to be fair, they will be very hard to see on the finished kit.
An overall coat of CDL was followed by the lozenge decals (3 parts here)...
(https://i.imgur.com/2PlLRV2.jpg)
I'll leave them to dry overnight before the next stage which involves some masking and painting before the crosses can be added. Need to get some low tack masking tape too....
Gary
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Great work on this beauty Gary, she is coming along quite nicely.
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Great work, Gary.
The Hansa looks very clean and crisp. Top build and paintjob.
Bye,
Manni
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Terrific! Your lozenge application looks flawless.
RAGIII
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Ooh, this is stunning work on the decals Gary! Very neat and flawless to my eye... And turning into a great colour scheme! There are lots of great tips here... I will borrow shamelessly when I get round to mine... Regards, Marc
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Thank you all. Appreciate the comments.
Good and bad news for this update...
Markings are applied to upper wing and will be left to dry before I can add some paint around the edges as per coplour profile. I've also added some shading to the lower wings using the usual Tamiya Smoke X19....
(https://i.imgur.com/X9YkGEk.jpg)
Now some bad news. I noticed today that the decal on the upper fuselage is lifting. I tried some decal solution on it and a hairdruer and it seemed to fix the issue - for a bout 5 minutes before it started to lift again....
(https://i.imgur.com/H5r0WP0.jpg)
Bugger. Not the end of the world, but a real nuisance ??? I expect that the surface wasn't prepped properly or had some contaminant which is preventing the decal from adhering properly.
So, I have a couple of options. Remove the offending piece and use another from the W.29 kit I have in the stash (which I'm not planning on using hex camo for). Or, remove ALL the hex camo from the kit and use some faded camo I have from Aviattica.
Any suggestions as to how best to remove decals?
Gary
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In the end, I opted for the easier option. I wasn't sure that there would be enough of the Aviattic decal sheet to recover everything and the W.29 decals are a much lighter shade. So I used some sellotape to remove the offending decal, cleaned up the area throughly and applied a new piece, cut from the spare sections WNW provide....
(https://i.imgur.com/5Coawl8.jpg)
The downside is that the pattern doesn't not line up as before, but maybe this is because the tailplane was replaced with another at some stage???? Not easy to see from this photo, but I used a little sandpaper on the wingroot walkways to add some wear and tear.
Access panels underneath are painted and wing surfaces weathered....
(https://i.imgur.com/ENGQXSr.jpg)
Gary
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Nice recovery on the decal issue! Looks great!!
RAGIII
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Every now and then I miss a great project. I spent the last 1/2 hour going over this. Great work!!!
Steve
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Great save, she looks fantastic.
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Thanks guys, but all is not well. I have no doubt it is my own fault and a lack of experience with such large decals but I had what can be descibed as a mishap when masking the upper wing crosses. Let's just say that the situation isn't easily saved this time :-\
So, it looks like I'll be going with the Aviattic decals after all! Only thing is that the kit hex decals will need to be removed from everything so I can start again. The upper wing is currently in a 'bath' of oven cleaner to remove all traces of paint. The lower wings will follow and I'll need to have a close look as to how to tackle the upper fuselage/tailplane surfaces.
Yep, extremely frustrating, but I guess that's how we learn sometimes. But I'd rather make these mistakes now with something like this than when I build the Felixstowe!!!!
Hopefully, normal service will be resumed soon....
Gary
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Paint and decals completely stripped from top wing. Lower wings still need paint removing but need to make some detailed drawings first. I don't have any spare markings for the wings so will need to paint new ones on. The top ones are pretty straightforward but the bottom ones are a little more tricky. They have a white outline which is a little irregular (not visible in my pics due to contrast between the whites) and those with the kit will know what I mean - if interested, see page 23 of the instructions on the WNW site)....
(https://i.imgur.com/6PqEvsM.jpg)
It hasn't all been backwards progress though. Connected the control lines to the rudder....
(https://i.imgur.com/BZGhrsC.jpg)
Gary
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Sorry to hear you have had a mishap on this ne as it looked terrific! I am sure you will recover in the end.
RAGIII
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The downside is that the pattern doesn't not line up as before,
That isn't a downside, it's exactly as the real 'plane would have been. They used printed lozenge fabric and stretched it over the parts separately. So the fuselages would be covered in one shop and tailplanes in another. No way were they trying to pattern match from one component to the other, it would waste too much material - especially in wartime
Best of luck with your next attempt at covering
Richard
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Thanks Richard. Good to know. I was going by the colour plate in the instructions. Will make life a lot easier!!!!
Gary
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Thanks Richard. Good to know. I was going by the colour plate in the instructions. Will make life a lot easier!!!!
Gary
You could probably go further and have the left and right wings with the patterns deliberately offset. Mind you, it wouldn't half stand out, so you'd have to be brave
Richard
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I am very sorry to hear about your mishap with the decals. But being a huge fan of the Aviattic stuff I am sure your bird will look even better when you have used these instead of the kit's decals ;)
My small but growing experience with Aviattic decals brings me to give you some hints (please excuse if you probabely know them all already!) 1. You should care for a very glossy surface before applying them. Last time I used the gloss varnish from Alclad, but Future works fine as well. 2. Many people tend to trimm the decals to the exact size before applying. I apply them cut a little larger than needed and cut the rest after drying with the help of a razor blade. 3. be very very careful when masking a decalled surface. The decal material itself is very robust and easy to handle. But the masking tape can lift the decal from the surface a little when it sticks too well and this looks like silvering.
Good luck!
Borsos
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Sorry to hear you have had a mishap on this ne as it looked terrific! I am sure you will recover in the end.
RAGIII
Same here on the mishap, please post final pics !
Ed
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Sad to hear that.
But I think you will be very satisfied with the new decals.
Bye,
Manni
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Thanks for the encouragement and advice.
Haven't done much to the model itself as the lock failed on my modelling shed the other day and I've been trying to break in without causing too much damage :o Got there in the end last night and have started preparing the wings for their new decals.
In the meantime, I've been working on some decal templates. I don't have any original decals now so copied the layout of the decal sheet from the WnW site and have used photoshop to make full size copies on plain paper which I'll use to cut out the pieces I need from the Aviattic sheet. A bit long winded but should give me what I need. Hope to have some updates with pics soon.
Gary
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So, here are the parts cut out from printed paper and laid over the Aviattic sheet. Not a lot of room for error :-\
(https://i.imgur.com/PGpuW5l.jpg)
Gary
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Looks as though you have things covered ;D I look forward to seeing the wings covered again!
RAGIII
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Nice recovery-ing...ing
Steve
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Slow progress. With the decals gone, I have to re-do the national markings on the wings. I did consider another aircraft, but it would have been a real hassle to remove all the remaining decals - especially the rudder, without causing damage to the paint and parts.
So, after some creative and careful masking, the first one is done....
(https://i.imgur.com/1czdKU1.jpg)
I would say that the original markings on the plane were overpainted hence the odd shape white surround for the black cross. I just used Tamiya black and white for that part, while the square background received some 'off white' from the Mr Hobby range. Jusr need to replicate this on the otherside now...
Gary
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Really nice work on the converted cross look.
RAGIII
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Thanks RAGIII.
SBS if anyone is interested.
Tamiya 6mm masking tape first for black part of cross. Surrounding areas then masked off around cross....
(https://i.imgur.com/sefYpu6.jpg)
Yellow tape removed and black sprayed....
(https://i.imgur.com/AQBNyTr.jpg)
When fully dry, yellow tape reapplied and surrounding tape removed (leaving tape in place either side of background square). White is AB'd on....
(https://i.imgur.com/yvuWAlD.jpg)
Further masking applied to cover the brighter white outline to the cross. Off white is then sprayed on to colour the background 'square'....
(https://i.imgur.com/BVneiOV.jpg)
Tape is then removed....
(https://i.imgur.com/Pooy5tp.jpg)
For the circular access panel under one of the wings, I raided my extensive photoetch spares box for a suitably sized 'hole' and used this to cut out a circle on a piece of masking tape....
(https://i.imgur.com/0ZL3GGP.jpg)
Other square panels arealso masked off...
(https://i.imgur.com/k4ZK5YC.jpg)
And sprayed. Extra work, but much better finish when airbrushed IMHO....
(https://i.imgur.com/qITDvet.jpg)
Gary
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VERY WELL DONE! Thanks for the step by step tutorial!
RAGIII
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She's shaping up to be a real stunner, Gary!
Cheers,
Bud
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Ditto my Amigos Rick and Bud's comments !
Ed
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As previously stated, outstanding looking job on this mini masterpiece.
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Thanks guys.
Upper wings get similar treatment....
(https://i.imgur.com/C9CrwRK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/d9StWmM.jpg)
Gary
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The upper wing crosses are looking great!
RAGIII
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Outstanding Gary. Your crosses are little works of art. :D
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Thanks guys.
Finally, some decals. I've seen a lot mentioned about Aviattic decals here and am using them for the first time. I'm starting with a sheet with white backing and have to say I can now see what all the fuss is about. I think the results speak for themselves....
(https://i.imgur.com/7yzGEtc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3drJFkb.jpg)
The Wingnut Wings decals are very, very good, but these are on a whole new level. Looking forward to getting some more of this aircraft covered over the coming weekend....
Gary
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Ah, this looks so much better now! Great work, Gary.
Bye,
Manni
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Nice!!
Steve
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Looking really good Gary. Aviattic decals are great and look the part.
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Looking really good Gary. Aviattic decals are great and look the part.
A much better and very impressive difference with the new decals, it's looking very nice! With your re-work of the markings and the change in lozenge this Build has moved into a much higher class, great work Gary, I like this one a lot!
Cheers,
Lance
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;D
First wing covered. Cut decal into 4 sections - very careful to make sure joins don't show as no rib tapes to add on these...
(https://i.imgur.com/qoraQdb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GZ30BCv.jpg)
When they are completely dry, will trim the trailing edge with a sharp blade.
Gary
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WIP....
(https://i.imgur.com/uGM08Xn.jpg)
What's the green tape I hear you ask? Well, after reading up on how to apply these decals, it appears that even the sharpest of blades can have a trouble cutting neatly through the decals where they need to be trimmed. So I thought it may help to put some masking tape on the underside so any overhang of the decals will adhere to the tape. This should make trimming a lot easier. Will see if it is a good idea once dry ;D
Gary
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I read somewhere that you can dissolve the overhang with some Tamiya extra thin,
it also helps with adherance to the edge.
grtz
free
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Looks great! Bud uses Tamiya extra thin cement. I have used a sanding stick or rolled sandpaper moving only from top to bottom. I have been successful with a really sharp blade on a few also.
RAGIII
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Gary,
I'm looking forward to the results of your experiment with tape on the edges; I find that final step with these decals the most challenging and solutions are always most welcome!
Cheers,
Lance
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Great recovery! Having just spent an afternoon masking and painting the red bands on my DVII only to have them both too rough, and in the wrong place, I know how you must have felt earlier!
I used Mr Mark softer on the trailing edges of my Aviattic decals on my 1/72 builds, this somehow makes the edges brittle and allows for easier trimming with a new scalpel blade. I suppose Extra Thin will do the same, but might be a bit hotter (though don't let the Mr Mark stuff pool too long as well, as it will melt the printed surface!)
Jeroen
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While the trimming with masking tape workled well, I'm still not entirely happy - especially at the wing tips and some of the decal joins. Rather than perservering which is causing some frustration, I think it best to put this to one side for now and revist in the future. I've invested too much time and effort to abandon this, just feel that putting things on hold will be the sensible option for now.
Gary
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Gary,
I understand where you are coming from. You are most likely being overcritical of your own work but aren't we all! I am sure you will sort it out when you decide to go back. Perhaps this is why My dual builds tend to go well. When one of the models reaches the frustration point I move to the other one 8)
RAGIII