forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Bughunter on September 06, 2017, 05:22:22 AM
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Lebed VII
Bang - my holiday is over, and other things, which kept my busy. But I was able to find some time to start a new project.
During hiking I had contact and smelled a lot of wood, so I wanted to do somethings with wood immediately!
The new projekt is a "Lebed VII", that is the russian variant of the Sopwith Tabloid. As far as I know the story is nice: The russion aircraft engineer Vladimir A Lebedev bought a Sopwith Tabloid for evaluation in 1914 and a possible licence built. The biplane was delivered, but a licence aggreement is not known. At least a small series was built in Russia, at least they have ordered 16 tachometers from Sopwith :D
A kit is available from Special Hobby in 1/48 in plastic, with decals, PE and some resin.
(https://www.modelimex.com/images/thumbs/0159122.jpg)
Source: modelimex.com
My reference will be a Windsock Mini Datafile 9 "Sopwith Tabloid"!
(https://www.windsockdatafilespecials.co.uk/ekmps/shops/gcreasey/images/sopwith-tabloid-10-p.jpg)
Source: windsockdatafilespecials.co.uk
Lets start with wooden airscrew!
Found some darker (compared to me veneer) pear, but I had to cut it before by hand until it is flat enough to cut veneer from it.
I really like the dark red of this wood.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhb2JTbVQwc2dkUlk)
Six layers and a lot of sanding has this result:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhY1VoRGpyQndoVG8)
View from behind:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhN09vbGNqSVlSVXM)
The drawing seems to be wrong, all pictures show a opposite direction:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhZkJ0S240LVdYeTg)
Now its primed and varnished. I want to add some clear red brown:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhSFM4elhuXzlGX0k)
I hope you will like my new project!
I have also a small teaser of the next update, still something with wood 8)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhYko2emxWaFV4VXc)
Cheers,
Frank
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Awesome, Frank, a wonderful start!!
Andreas
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Beautiful work on the propeller Frank and I'm certainly looking forward to seeing what you do with the interior.
Des.
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Another fantastic start Frank. Lovely job using real wood. Looking forward to your progress.
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Spectacular work on the prop, Frank!
Cheers,
Bud
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Beautiful work on the prop Frank. The interior wood work is a real touch of ingenuity, first example I've seen and I like the idea a lot! An acquaintance I made years ago won the Michael Fitz Award for Best WWI Aircraft Model some time ago and he told me that he always tries to use the same materials on his models as was used on the real aircraft when he can, thus thin aluminum sheet from disposable kitchen plates and wood figure a lot into his Builds as an example. You've done the same here and it's a nice touch; I'll be following your progress closely!
Cheers,
Lance
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Excellent prop Frank. I am looking forward to the next update!
RAGIII
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Beautiful woodwork, Frank, I'll keep watching !
Antonio
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Beautiful propeller. Great contrast between the laminates. Are both colored wood pear? It is a great wood to work with- I use it on my ships all the time. Tight grain so it looks good in scale, holds an edge, hard but not impossible to shape. Looking forward to watching your progress.
Dave
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Beautiful prop mate! And a great start to an extremely interesting subject. I`ll follow your WiP thread with a great interest!
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Wow my friends, what a fantastic feedback! Thank you very much!
Great contrast between the laminates. Are both colored wood pear?
Dave, I don't know. One is pear veneer, the other one was a block as on the picture.
Prepare now the next update ...
Cheers,
Frank
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Cockpit with wood
Next I have done the cockpit, tried to use wood, because I had to replace many parts anyway. Let's see ...
The kit contains resin parts:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhMGNNOUhfTS1IT0E)
But the floor plate should be positioned at half height? The fuselage is not bigger as other 1/48 aircrafts. The floor has also not much related to the drawings in the Datafile.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhcC1sOEdBVDI4QzA)
Removed the holder ... oops, the rest too. The back part painted in linen, the front with dark alu:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhb0dEMmo3QkZOZGs)
Started to create a new floor - my metal rule matches coincidentally to start in a right angel.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhc2JtYnp0dkpiZlE)
Finished glueing:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhVkhCSmdxdkpoV1U)
The next picture you know already ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhYko2emxWaFV4VXc)
Oops, the middle strut should have been added after the rigging!
The rigging was done from 0,1mm nickel silver with 0,3mm brass pipes.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhR1Rlb1hUY1d0UzA)
I wanted to test the bending properties of pear. Just showed some steam - works great! So it was easy to create a wooden seat:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhUWFObC1ra2MtZHM)
All painted with some small parts:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhQXhBQnRsN0JQT2c)
There was also a resin part for the instrument board, but with a huge sprue bush. I was really easier to replace it by wood. A decal from Airscale, PE of Eduard and frames from a HGW set are mounted and glazed with Kristal Klear. Still a bit empty ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhZUNLZXA3OUZYV0k)
So I scratched a pulsometer and fuel shut-off from brass:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhb0dCaGw5cHI3MFk)
Done with wood? not yet! I wanted to try a very small part ...
The kit has a control stick - that's "curd cheese" (german), since the Tabloid was equipped with a control wheel!
I crosswise glued two veneer plates and sanded a thin and small wheel.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhX3N5X0lITDNiRXM)
A PE would have been nice, but with cutting and filing I made my own brass part. Soldered to a 0,4mm axle and glued it to the wheel.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhczVidC1wblhxNWc)
So, all wooden parts are prepared.
Cheers,
Frank
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That's all pretty unique, Frank, and brilliant work! I'm particularly impressed with your wood seat, I've filed that trick away for use in future.
Great Build Log thus far.
Cheers,
Lance
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Frank, this is beautiful! The seat took my breath away, but so did everything else! That wheel, wow!
Eagerly awaiting your next update.
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Amazing thread my friend! The seat just looks great as the rest of your build.
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Top build!
Amazing wood detail set!
Being close that thread
regards
K
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This is coming together beautifully Frank, I love the fact that you are using real wood.
Des.
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Can't beat real wood Frank..
Beautiful
Guy
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Detailing a cockpit with real wood... hmmmm... really amazing idea, especially the seat looks great. I must try this out some day.
Andreas
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I too appreciate the use of wood on a model - greta idea. The rest of you detailing is simply superb - and what a difference it makes to what is otherwise a good model but not special. Yours will be VERY special!
Stephen.
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Oh, you are all so much surprised, at least by the seat - I should register a patent and sell licenses. So I can stop working and have more time for modeling and can come around with more of such crazy ideas 8)
Just joking ;) Thank you all :-*
Cockpit mounting
It is really hard to gather information about that biplane, at least for the inside. There exists a replica in Hendon, but I guess they had the same problem - the instrument board is empty!
(https://farm9.static.flickr.com/8137/8698961908_28d4c6975d_b.jpg)
Quelle: https://hiveminer.com/Tags/factory,warbird
Now some brass parts, the rudder bar scratched and soldered.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhVzBTT1VtSl92cXM)
Also a control wheel holder. According to that picture I decided also against seat belts for such early time. No weapon, no fights, no acrobatics. They were lucky to be able to go from A to B and see something. And to avoid a headstand, a special landing gear is mounted. So I found no reason for a belt and no picture shows one.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhem5ORWRhQmpVNVU)
All parts mounted and put on a light washing. In real the colors are not so bright.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhV0NhbXprbGdvcms)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhajl0cnpyWHdYa00)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhUUo3dXotYUpKUjg)
It was a lot of effort, but it is still visible from outside.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhYlNJQmRJMzJkREk)
Hard to show with photos, but with real eye you can see some details inside.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhRHFBUkRYTERybEk)
Really pity, that I have to glue the fuselage parts together ....
Cheers,
Frank
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Truly beautiful work, frank! Next thing you'll be making your own Stripped Down versions out of wood!
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Superb workmanship on the cockpit, control column and rudder bar, well done so far.
Des.
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Great work, Frank. Superb details. I hope I can see the originals on an exhibition maybe in Mol or in Lingen.
Bye,
Manni
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Top notch mate! That's what you take pictures for ;) - to still be able to see all your effort.
Keep up the good work!
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Frank,
Your woodworking and details are incredible! Lovely results!!
RAGIII
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Thank you all!
Next thing you'll be making your own Stripped Down versions out of wood!
That would be a lot of effort, and I have some question regarding stability! If I sand the wood down to such thin parts it gets really flexible.
control column
Ah, thank you! Sometimes I don't find the correct translation.
I hope I can see the originals on an exhibition maybe in Mol or in Lingen.
Manni, from the south of Germany this is a bit to far. My models (and me) can be met in Fürstenfeldbruck on 17./18. March 2018 (https://www.fuerstenfelder-modellbautage.de/) and, may be this is more a option for you, in Wilnsdorf on 29. April 2018 (http://www.modellbaufreunde-siegen.de/). Have to drive 500km for that event, but it's nice. Would be nice to meet you there.
That's what you take pictures for ;) - to still be able to see all your effort.
So it is good to have such build report ;)
The next thing will be the engine.
Cheers,
Frank
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Nothing can stand the magic of real wood and looks perfect here. I'm looking forward to see the completed lebed.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Your work never ceases to amaze me, and this latest is no exception.
With reference to seat belts it would seem that most early aircraft did not carry them for the reasons that you have given: that pilots did not perform aerobatics so that they were unlikely to fall out of the cockpit. It would also seem that they were not fitted to many aircraft until quite late into WW1: there are accounts of pilots who did not want them for various reasons. There are also accounts of observers falling out of the front cockpit of the FE 2b in dogfights and at least one of an observer Lt F. S. Rankin's coat being grabbed by by the pilot to prevent him from falling out of the aircraft. Another account is of a pilot flying another aircraft (not an FE 2b), who was attempting to change the drum of the Lewis gun which was mounted on the top wing: the drum jammed and in wrestling to get it off the aircraft turned on its back and the pilot fell out of the cockpit and found himself hanging on to the Lewis drum. With difficulty he managed to get his legs back into the cockpit and kick the control column so that the aeroplane turned back to normal level flight and the pilot could sit back in his seat: if he had had a seat belt he would not have fallen out. I apologise for not giving the name of the pilot or his aircraft - perhaps another can provide those details - memory suggests that it may have been Capt L. Strange of the RNAS.
Stephen.
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I would be very surprised to find that the Tabloid had no belt
Observers fell out because they were standing to use guns
Richard
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Rotary engine Gnome Lambda
The Tabloid was equipped with different engines, this Russian machine with a 7-cylinder Gnome Lambda 80hp. This is available from Small Stuff, so let's start!
As usual clever and secure packed:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhdktYMWtzX3NTaEE)
Some of the push rods was missing, but here I need only seven, still some additional ones.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhWWN2bzdzTG5LelE)
Incomprehensible detailed and very clean produced parts. I never found a single bubble.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhR1ZwRm5LLTR3OWc)
The cylinders are mounted and painted with Alclad II. I have used the following colors:
- Dark alu
- Steel on the cylinders
- Exhaust Manifold for the cylinder heads
- Hot Metal sepia on the cylinder
- Gold Titanium only a small amount on the case
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhR1h1TElMRkJhelk)
Alclad has no real brass, but Pale Gold and Polished brass are available. But the later one is special and need a sealing. But now there is a Brass from Mr.Paint (MRP-150), which I tried here:
After the picture I added a bit of Pale Gold.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhZG1oZE51RkFQMFk)
Valve handles painted with Dark alu and Steel.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhZ2t4WEJ3dUxVYzg)
Also the other small parts.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhblVtWFRHOVBrZm8)
During the mounting, back view with spark plugs ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhXy1lbFVkWWZmRnc)
... and the front view with the brass sockets:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLheU4wWkx3Q3V3N28)
After the cut of the valve handles with razor and a oil color washing the engine is done! Wiring will be done later.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhdEtKNERBNlVnVEU)
I like the result, in real it looks more like metal compared to the pictures.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhOFc1dXBiZlMtNUU)
Here again on the package, see the upper left warning (due to the correct scale)!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhLWU2Nk1YbmtIQmM)
Houston, I have a problem!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhamZKSTFmUDhrQmc)
Lance gave me a crazy idea ...
An acquaintance I made years ago won the Michael Fitz Award for Best WWI Aircraft Model some time ago and he told me that he always tries to use the same materials on his models as was used on the real aircraft when he can, thus thin aluminum sheet from disposable kitchen plates and wood figure a lot into his Builds as an example.
Let's see ...
Cheers,
Frank
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Wow Frank, your work is incredible and the engine sublime (crazy fit issue). Looking forward to your next installment.
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Frank,
"Lance gave me a crazy idea ..."
I'm looking forward to your next post to see what you are up to.........
In the interim, can you share what you used for your "oil" on the Lamda? Beautifully done, great metal colours.
Cheers,
Lance
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Stunning work on the engine Frank! Beautifully painted.
RAGIII
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love the semi-scratch build with the real wood, and the prop is a gem..!!
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Thank you for your kind words, this makes it really fun, to write a build report here!
In the interim, can you share what you used for your "oil" on the Lamda? Beautifully done, great metal colours.
It is simply "burnt umber" from a artist oil series thinned with lighter fuel.
Cheers,
Frank
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Very impressive work, Frank, you definitely possess excellent modelling skills! I will be watching this build with great interest.
Cheers
Ondra
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Thank you, Ondra!
Wings
Still something to show. The front will take more work, but I can show the painted wings.
Primed white and masked:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhOE9nbTA1ckNvMTg)
The lower surface shadowed with wood brown and masked:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhQTJ1QUVRejBkTWc)
The upper sutface darkened, the lower surface brightened up and the tapes removed:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhdThYcjI0RVJUdjg)
For the color I decided to follow the manual and used a bright grey (Gunze H338), view from below:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhRkNMUlhEV2xDR1k)
... and from top:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhZk5HX3Q0RlphS28)
That's all for today!
Cheers,
Frank
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Nicely painted and shaded!
RAGIII
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Very good, i love wood!
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Thank you!
One question regarding the engine:
In the interim, can you share what you used for your "oil" on the Lamda? Beautifully done, great metal colours.
Cheers,
Lance
In real it looks much better metallic , compared to the pictures. The camera sees mostly the washing on top and cannot look so "deep" as the human eye.
Has anyone tried to use optical filters for such situation? Is there something to improve this?
Cheers,
Frank
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Wheels
For the wheels I have a own update, you will know soon, why ...
The kit solution by SpecialHobby for the spoke wheels:
Four half tyres, four PEs, and you need to create 3mm long bushes.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhS21NZVdMNURCa0E)
The hubs must be moved out 1,5mm and the half tyres needs to be added.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhYzVjcWtVSlhDZWs)
Here are my usual 3 problems are!
First problem: how to fill that with putty and sand it clean?
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhU1dsQkNSY01DLVk)
Second problem: the wheels looks much to big, like a bulky agricultural tractor wheel.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhN2ZyM0VMRDdXSWc)
Third problem: During bending of the last PE I hear a loud "click" :o
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhZUVkZXMydHBTUEE)
At first I filled out a web form on the SpecialHobby web site, because I had no other idea.
The I found in my stash this set from Eduard:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhMzFkY2daSklFNUU)
Bending as recommended with a steel ball:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhQ0JLNWdzc1FsWm8)
Much more filigrane wheel, I sanded also the half types, compared to the kit ones at the right.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhclZPZUppUE05Vm8)
But the half tyres are cool, because I had an idea. Glued on thin plastic:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhQXpGQnp6NWoyc00)
Cut the inside out to get a wheel rim. This make also the glueing of the spokes easier.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhaFhXaGgtNkRhVEE)
This was more effort then expected, but look much better at the end.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhb1cyUGlmXzFTUGs)
After two weeks I got now a replacement PE sent by SpecialHobby. Thank you very much!
Some color is needed, then the wheel task is done.
Cheers,
Frank
Edit: removed duplicate picture
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Those engines fromSmll Stuff are really excellent, but your painting has turned it into something that looks as though it is made from metal.
Your wheels are equally stunning. I have used Eduard wheels for 1/72 scale but I think that the spokes are too thick: on your model they look just right.
A most interesting thread with so much to learn from a master modeller.
Stephen.
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Great update. The Eduard`s spokes look way better!
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The Eduard spokes look terrific in my opinion. Excellent work!
RAGIII
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Agree that the Eduard wheels look great. Thanks for showing the steps for shading the wings - I'm new to this, and seeing the sequence was very helpful.
Dave
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Great modifications, that fit perfect the original.
Manni
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You have done a fantastic job with the wheels Frank.
Des.
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Super work on the wheels, Frank. I'm really enjoying, and learning from your build.
Best wishes
Nigel
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At first thank you all for your comments, highly appreciated!
Those engines from Small Stuff are really excellent, but your painting has turned it into something that looks as though it is made from metal.
To improve the pictures further (I wrote about that before) I experimented with a polarization filter (not software, but glass in front of the lens). I thinks it shows more the metal look as the real model:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhb0FMdVRDdnhQTU0)
I'm really enjoying, and learning from your build.
That was the lesson "kit improvement by accident" ;D
I guess without the broken PE part I would have used the kit solution. But luckily (from the actual point of view) I was forced to think about it.
This was not the first time! For my Fokker E.III Stripdown (http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=8567.0) I scratched and soldered a landing gear. It was finished and I wanted to airbrush it, so I deployed my spray booth on the work bench - where the hell is the gear? Your guess is right - below the booth, in a flat variant! At first frustration, but since I had to rework it the second version gets even better.
Cheers,
Frank
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Landing gear
The kit parts. Wanted to use them, really!
But the axles are to short for the spoke wheels (but correct for filled plastic ones). The middle strut was only there on some Tabloids, but - you guess - not on this Russian one. In the manual was nothing stated about it, just on the box cover and the painting page it was visible.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLheV9Ka0Z1cUxnTW8)
Additionally I have looked at pictures of the replica from Hendon ...
(https://abpic.co.uk/pictures/full_size_0190/1286753-large.jpg)
Source: abpic.co.uk (Air-Britain Photographic Images Collection)
And found a lot of fantastic pictures in high resolution here:
http://www.maquetland.com/article-phototheque/5982-sopwith-tabloid-hendon
One example:
(http://www.maquetland.com/upload/phototeque/images/5982/sopwith_tabloid%20_hendon_train_attrissage%20(2).JPG)
After some work with pear veneer, including bending with steam, this is the result:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhanBtS28tcWFVWHM)
All struts are secured with brass pins, also in the skids:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhSlUxZFo5VlczVnc)
I think, this looks better!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhS3hMblM4ZEJFM0U)
And matches the datafile drawing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhTnc5OEt0bU96YzA)
Already this early Sopwith uses this half axles, which I scrached on my Pup (http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=8554.0)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhc2x3QnpPMHdNZDg)
After painting of the wood and mounting the metal that is the actual look:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhNkdsVjN1ZDYydFk)
Now I have to think about suspension, fittings and rigging. Some PE would be nice, but I guess such fittings are not available in my scale.
Cheers,
Frank
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Beautiful undercarriage design.
Congratulations.
Jacek
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Truly amazing and beautiful job on the undercarriage (and everything else).
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Your gear assembly looks stunning! Very well done!!
RAGIII
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Truly amazing and beautiful job on the undercarriage (and everything else).
Indeed; wood, metal, and a plastic mainframe, great work!
Lot's to be learned here and a pleasure to follow!
Cheers,
Lance
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Super nice build. Love the wheels and use of veneer
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Speechless.... Beautiful use of wood. The landing gear looks so good.
Manni
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Beautiful is definitely the word. I think I'm in love.
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Thank you all for your feedback about the undercarriage!
Fittings
If done with wood, I should add metal too.
That means fittings. Soldered thin brass foils together to do some parts at once.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhNXQ2VTJGaE9oeW8)
Additionally two other kinds.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhVVZxQkR0cWR3ZzQ)
Mounted view. I can put the suspension between the "bolts" (0,33mm nickel silver).
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhOWlqLWhKU1d4Nzg)
In the front it just hold the strut. The instant glue will stabilize the wooden frame (I hope).
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhR3NXdzItQlZydms)
Still not done! Two plates with hole and 0,2mm axle ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhV1pUSmxLZ050MWs)
... steers the half axles during rebound. This is shown in a drawing in Datafile.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLheTdRN0JnY0x6WnM)
And if I do sheet metal forming ...
I found a picture of the open front in the internet:
(https://s2.postimg.org/5s4se5dsn/image.jpg)
Quelle: postimg.org
I tried to build that part as far as I could.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhSndLQmt0c1hCWHM)
The bearing is turn from brass on my lathe. Since I don't own a dividing head some of the small holes are not distributed equally, but axle and air screw will block part of the view.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhbHBGY1ZzR0w1MFk)
After a tin-coat it looks much better.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhZ0VvZkhEWE91MHM)
I will solder the parts from back.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhazRpV2Uwak94bzQ)
Such small parts could eat up a lot of time, and I never constructed or made myself PE parts.
Cheers,
Frank
-
The bearing is turn from brass on my lathe. Since I don't own a dividing head some of the small holes are not distributed equally, but axle and air screw will block part of the view.
If you can drill small holes that evenly, you don't need a dividing head!
I have a dividing head, I can make a much bigger mess of that job than you have
Lovely work
Richard
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I'm speachless!
That is absolutely outstanding work with those brackets.
Ian
-
:o
-
Amazing micro metal work Frank.
Very well done! :)
-
Incredible detail and workmanship, simply amazing.
-
Frank,
The brackets, fittings and woodwork etc. are sheer magic! Your workmanship never deviates despite the "multi media" challenges. My sincere compliments on some really nice work!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Superb metal work Frank, all these little fittings make the model look more realistic.
Des.
-
that combination of real wood and real metal is absolutely breathtaking. You have to talk to Traudl, I want to take lessions next time in Fürstenfeld Bruck! And I am sure there are much more people who would like to come. So a workshop would be fine :)
Andreas
-
Thank you so much for your feedback, you find always so nice words for my work :-[
Andreas, what should I tell you in such workshop? That metal things are not a big deal.
You need a thin brass foil (found a set long ago on ebay), small drills and some needle files (different profiles are helpful). The problem is more to know what to do, so good sources of pictures or drawings are needed. If I need more than one part it is easier to solder some foils together and do the parts at ones. At the end separate the parts again with iron.
The more modern way would be to create a drawing on computer and get PE from it ;)
Suspension
Today I have only a small update.
I tried different things for the rubber cords for the suspension. I tried some threads, lead wire (wanted to paint it), but at the end I used gray stretched sprue. Was not so easy to contrive it into the backward holder!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhWW0zRVhxMUR2aUk)
You liked the wood so much, so I decided to replace the other struts to, here the four in the middle.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhVFc5YWM0WFM2VTg)
For the holder between the half axles (in the middle) I added a plate from below and four "bolts" (0,33mm nickel silver)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhaHhMaVlBWHlvVms)
Also the four outer struts are done and plug in without glue, the brass pins hold them, so you get a impression of the whole plane.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhRDFZN3RRbDRIbXc)
Still a lot of things on the todo list, not much progress and the weekend is gone :-\
Cheers,
Frank
-
This is looking more and more like a work of art. The wood/metal combination and the intricate detail is just gorgeous!
Ian
-
Coming along beautifully! I see you've also started to tackle your cowling issues, which I'm sure will not only be functional but also elegant! Excellent work with all of your different media, everything is truly beautiful. I wish I possessed hands as steady as yours!
-
Wow, I'm speechless. It looks as if the suspension is working. Great.
Manni
-
It's a fantastic as well as unusual work mixing those different materials, you are a wizard!
AnDonio
-
Very very VERY well done :o
vB
-
Thank you all for your fantastic feedback!
I see you've also started to tackle your cowling issues, which I'm sure will not only be functional but also elegant!
But this is really a difficult task and I have to think about it, so in mean time I prefer something different. But on this model is still enough to do.
It looks as if the suspension is working.
Mission accomplished!
Cheers,
Frank
-
Very nice job with the wooden struts! I also like the bungee cords.
-
Wow!!! That undercarriage with all those details is mindblowing!
-
Looks Decent.... ;D OK AWESOME, Beautiful, etc, etc, !!!!!
RAGIII
-
As has been commented, the combination of different materials and the attention to such small detail (even in this scale) marks out this model as something very superior. I do not envy you trying to get those bungee cords to look right!
Stephen.
-
Awesome work, Frank. By coincidence, I recently began building the Special Hobby Sopwith Schneider but got a bit stuck in the build not having any references to work from. However, after seeing what you're doing I am not only inspired to keep going, but also try a few of the extra details you have done. I may even start my first build post!
-
Thank you all!
However, after seeing what you're doing I am not only inspired to keep going, but also try a few of the extra details you have done. I may even start my first build post!
Jim, nice to hear my build could inspire you, looking forward to your build post!
New toy
There was not really time for this model, but I have a new toy!
The wheels are painted, then I added the spokes and painted finally the rim with alu:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhaG1pYmRpNjFSMGM)
If you can drill small holes that evenly, you don't need a dividing head!
Anyway Richard, now I have a new toy: a small dividing head! It matches to my small milling machine, and is usable for the drilling one too.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhZXA5dFhKV0FLWjQ)
I wanted to try it immediately! What is missing here? A fuel cap!
On some high resolution pics of the Hendon Tabloid the cap is visible. So I turned one from brass on my lathe, put it into the dividing head and milled every 30° with 0,8mm.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLhTVZidmJfdlFvNU0)
The result:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=0B1jvv6k_doLheTJVY3pNTG93aDA)
Cheers,
Frank
-
Lovely!
Richard
-
That's gorgeous, Frank!
Also I missed all that chat about your landing gear legs - just beautiful work! I'm lost for words.
-
Superb work with the undercarriage Frank.
Des.
-
Wow, this is above and beyond...beautiful work!
Ian
-
Great stuff I like it
-
I like it a lot!
vB :o
-
the most wooden platic plane I have ever seen..
astonishing!
regards
K
-
Hello,
after a long time I have to say at first thank you very much for your nice comments!
I was a bit out of ideas here, so I have done another small project (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=8918.0), was busy with other things and finally something, which have to kept non-public until December (stay tuned!) but now I'm back here.
Alu metal plate
With handling of the fuselage the bonding opened a bit, so I take the chance and added some sheet. Now it is wider and has a bit more space for the engine.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1NOIvQNwgYMQZmD_E9C76CFgyijOmAOEH)
With a back side of a brush I formed aluminium from grilling tray into a bonnet prototype. The resin part of the kit was to thick and flat. Not bad so far, only very thin on the top.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1rVYJezW0EtnpkvQLAx_iBDeOa0V4HWGI)
If aluminium bonnet, what about the rest? I have to rework the sides anyway, because this are not bolts from a tank, this is an aircraft!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1IYlosQv0tQa79QfOF0WPmcJcchcJNldn)
Top and sides are done.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1gj3Apd24CVXk9nSKhzV06JE_m_kOx0J3)
The top plate was hard to done, but then I detected on pictures from Hendon a second plate just in front of the cockpit. That way it works!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1nM2L_vhtK0tcA7n95W9JmUMXl7EoICvG)
You can see small rivets on the pictures. Those are brass ones: 0,3 with 0,5mm head and 0,2 with 0,3mm head.
I tinned them prior cutting and mounting, which take a lot of time!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=120zaMXHcn5vhNZYzBgTZXgNvtjie5Kut)
The front is mounted and the crossing to the lower side was rounded.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1blDVY6_MUwXc7Ew5-HJE9U0OCyZkS89I)
Front and lower side is a one piece:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=15gqZ_2dEVSvZxXVyX1phIIvqM58QjaBM)
Drilled from both sides of the engine, for a new longer axle for engine, both bearings and airscrew.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1o_t8FaYCBUC-VfqoNjmNEgoBJb3hFXuA)
All plugged together for testing purposes.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1r4F8nmo3XioBoSzAvfXSDYHZf9OpmMNo)
And with the bonnet:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1h3JxI7QkUmaK5UIde2Rm00uIRXQnaHMR)
That was a lot of work, but sheet of real metal looks best like sheet of metal!
Cheers,
Frank
-
This is truly lovely work Frank. The amount of detail that you have there is exceptional.
Stephen.
-
Wow Frank, simply outstanding (all-around)
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Fantastic work, Frank!
Those wheels, aluminium panels and the engine in particular are stunning!
-
Outstanding Frank, like always.
Andreas
-
Impressive work Frank, nothing to add to comments by our colleagues...
Just one "technical" question, how did you glue the alu sheet to the plastic?
Antonio
-
Covering with sheet metal can be very effective:
(http://imodeler.com/uploads/2017/11/e/editor-171112-5a0859c02f2cc.jpeg)
http://imodeler.com/2017/11/scale-modelworld-2017-best-in-show/
Richard
-
Awesome work on the cowl panel! As you say nothing looks better than real metal!
RAGIII
-
Wow, what a great feedback! Thank you, my friends :)
It's a very interesting project - it started as small thing, not many parts, should be possible to do it quick. But with every little problem of this kit I start to think about a solution, which turned it into a very special model module by module, hope to be able go the way to the end now without further interruptions.
Just one "technical" question, how did you glue the alu sheet to the plastic?
Antonio, this was done with cyanoacrylate, a gel variant. I used the brand "100% Sekundenkleber"
(https://www.hornbach.de/data/shop/D04/001/780/493/935/38/DV_8_5481541_01_4c_DE_20140219022122.jpg)
Source: hornbach.de
Covering with sheet metal can be very effective
Oh yeah Richard, totally true. I followed this build by Peter from airscale in another forum, it plays in its own league!
Cheers,
Frank
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Oh yeah Richard, totally true. I followed this build by Peter from airscale in another forum, it plays in its own league!
Cheers,
Frank
I found that build awe inspiring, yet still accessible. Looks like you took some inspiration from it too
Richard
-
But it does move!
Let's continue with the metal work, but this time more towards the front.
The kit contains PE for the side "gills", but it do not look really like open open vents.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1BfgNoUWFbjAc-1jDEtxgHNyQIErtG5VU)
So I did 3 cuts, ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QuqLb5VFxkvu4FWp3I_x1Aiomx-j7XxE)
... pressed them against a sharp edge (green GfK) and finally formed with flat twezzers.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=12lbmSo-XLrj_fbh-nhtcN9KoKvhehHN2)
A kit error prevents the free rotation of the engine: the lower struts is straight, but a curve is needed. Removed.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1C6xk1Yrx53fqWK9d9f8jzZ0wtBXQYC7R)
Cutted after a paper template, edges are bend, glued an secured wioth rivets.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1M8rNc-QOM6KMtaY2qI2_HeW4cU6K2vTV)
The plate could be bend easily, so I secured it with a new frame made of steam bend pear wood.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1VHDgQAI4vRJ6KlFHVFTIKQexxdGLlMdY)
The other side is added too. The back frame is plated with a very thin wood.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1YqgNN2oP810vvp1SIYgN1wGBQWaEmWp0)
All is prepared for the engine installation:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=11gY_fE_yf8KHrho-U9tgJzRBJRjNdO8h)
The marks are done with a rubber polishing tool, at very low rpm.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1mNx9KAvjf-7ojOG5IgbRGuxcmdywShGJ)
The bonnet was finalized and two vents are added at the front.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1jj8KCTcDn-7fkuWsohRFReTkA4E3iyBE)
View from below:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Rd9wOuBy5m0gNNc-j-UGAf91nIZGmzzW)
But it does move! Now the engine is able to rotate! The engine can be seen from below.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1QqI00sCndOTEWg9jF2VEeXm_U-1tXyWn)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=14Ys_JA-WWNTjCQB4H5JST0Op14fkfdVD)
This was a lot of work! A oil washing will be added later.
Cheers,
Frank
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Damn - wish I hadn't seen that
This looks a great way of doing thin metal parts
Excellent work
Richard
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Truly spectacular work, Frank! Master craftsmanship at it's finest.
Cheers,
Bud
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Truly spectacular work, Frank! Master craftsmanship at it's finest.
Cheers,
Bud
Could not agree more, just masterful.
-
Great work
-
Every update a new wonder. Superb model.
Giuseppe.
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Truly spectacular work, Frank! Master craftsmanship at it's finest.
Cheers,
Bud
As always I agree completely with Bud!
RAGIII
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Absolutely outstanding metalwork. I couldn't agree more that only metal looks like metal, and is thin enough in scale. I used a beer can for the panels on my scratchbuilt Bleriot, but this is way above what I achieved.
Fantastic work indeed!
Ian
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absolutely amazing! Frank, with skills like these, you could start building the real thing!
-
Stunning, Frank! You are a real master modeler. The Metal works look fantastic,
Chapeau!
Manni
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Wow Frank! I never get enough when looking at this WIP, I always want to see more!!!
Can't wait for the next update.
Antonio
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Beide Daumen hoch!
Great progress on this one. Absolutely amazing!
Andreas
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Wow my friends, you find always so nice words for my work! Thank you very much, highly appreciated!
Can't wait for the next update.
Today only a small update, also because I forgot to mention steps.
Fuselage painted
As usual prior to mounting I added some ignition wires to the engine. To a piece of round sheet painted reddish brown (isolation) I added seven copper wires and placed it behind the engine on the axle, the glued/cutted to the plugs (picture of the last update):
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Rd9wOuBy5m0gNNc-j-UGAf91nIZGmzzW)
The was a small gap between "leather" bulge and the metal, so I added a lacing (Eduard PE, also used on the Sopwith Pup)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1UzxfOCifI_77ZKC_7R7R-zg1xU06rnFn)
I forgot to take a picture of the side view - only that shows, how much the alu has to be widened!
On the back I added brass pipes for the control wires.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18tpdyejHmRAC4c_MQq4mm6722b_HGgUV)
The rudders was separated, new hinges added and mounted. After protecting the metal the fuselage was primed with white ALclad.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=12fbslPAIth5NTkdKUP-8mHJ0gBNi7mSz)
I used this pictures of a Tabloid in Hendon ...
(https://farm9.static.flickr.com/8137/8698961908_28d4c6975d_b.jpg)
Quelle: https://hiveminer.com/Tags/factory,warbird
... and a drawing on the backside of the Datafile for painting the struts using a acryl pencil.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=15jWvKfL2jO13RNN7p4bOWsG8SL3YU6t_)
Finally it was painted with Gunze H338 grey (according to the manual). But I think I have used to much paint layers?!?
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=18dm-jCuooCKuATFnh8CsCI4VMeAhBDP0)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1uNxDK7_H6OALC7qKsyjkFBhWQdJ2HVWR)
Should I redo the painting to have better visible struts?
Cheers,
Frank
-
In my opinion, no you shouldn't. I'm not a great fan of paint schemes that try to show every lighting effect under the sun
I rarely look at a WW1 aeroplane and think 'wow, look at those ribs/struts/longerons'
On the other hand, it's your model, how do you want it to look?
Richard
-
Richard, thank you for your wake up call ;)
It was a problem of the light: now in Winter here I'm leaving and coming back in the dark, so I've seen that only in artificial light. Today I was a bit earlier at home and could look at it with rest of daylight, even on a cloudy grey day. But in that light it looks much better, so I decided to let it as it is.
Cheers,
Frank
-
Moving along nicely, await your decision on painting.
Ed
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Glad to be of help, Frank
Richard
-
The painting looks excellent to me! Really moving along on this one!
RAGIII
-
I agree with Richard and am pleased that you are leaving things as they are. Sometimes modellers overdo things and forget that what we see on the real thing is very much larger and therefore more apparant than would be the case if the size of object in question (the model) is properly taken into account. This is an excellent model - keep it as it is pleae!
Stephen.
-
I agree with all the above comments: it just looks right as it is.
And very well done.
Ciao
Giuseppe
-
I just read all the way through this build, what a beautiful model. A work of art and craftsmanship in the making imho... I’d leave the fuselage just the way it is. It’s subtle which looks better.
Ray
-
Hello my friends,
thanks for all your nice answers and recommendations - yes, I will leave it as it is.
Really pity, that I have no time on this weekend and both the next ones for modeling. May be some hours during the week.
Hopefully I can finish it until Christmas, at least that is the plan.
Cheers,
Frank
PS: Stay tuned for another surprise 8)
-
Peerless. A masterclass.
Cheers
Syd
-
Thanks Syd!
Decals
After clear coat I added the decals.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HAGMytUyGy6U5_T8-Iba97vfZK9a-DHu)
The decals of the kit are very thin! Sol or something like that was not needed.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1RgIYA-aKH_kxop62q-QdrpJ_GFz598Bg)
The length of the struts was cut according to the drawing.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1h-hkiZNxaZlwngfI2pDg62o9YaROHHHg)
Further metal parts was needed.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=14pUjiFcpopTapht6LQqgO2-S2pPDNe2W)
In this state, with plug-in gear the piece was shown in the mentioned medeler meeting as WIP.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1pprszySVGguvU5gDC7K0y3B7a1Aruqkq)
The holes in the wings are matching.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1aAsq72xNZHVc04Tqm_KpSKrDKBMnfRzz)
Then I started to work on another detail.
This brass guide pulleys has a diameter of 1,5mm:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=16ECfN5aUuRV_ElRAADkYBYk5ZfzK8ZdL)
As casing I soldered a box from thin brass, with a brass rivet on the upper side.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_L0Qe0AxUB5xKLXWF-NX2yHwqkvbk-05)
The boxes are sitting on the backside struts and the first rigging work is done.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1PlYnUIAYyZBpGlGy9TyjXMnaTul78LEJ)
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ZYMwcfUD7K8Zeh7vJgCr2hWVWz4sNOqy)
The small pulleys are finalized with chemical black and sitting crossways to allow a wing warping.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1LArODuHFqj8ft3DQkDn-c4kyU1XsXbEo)
I hope you will like it!
Cheers,
Frank
-
"I hope you will like it!
Cheers,
Frank"
Wow Frank, this is simply stunning. What's not to like.... ;D
-
I love it!! Truly amazing work, Frank! Thank you for doing all of this and sharing it with us.
Cheers,
Bud
-
It doesn't get any better than this Frank! Just Gorgeous!
RAGIII
-
Gorgeous work -very inspirational!
-
How could anyone not like this? It's inspiring, and very well executed work!
Ian
-
INCREDIBLE cool. Really great. I hope to see it in march at Fürstenfeldbruck!
Andreas
-
What you are doing is beyond incredible.... but I do not know of any words to describe it!!
Stephen.
-
Thank you very much my friends four your incredible comments! That is a great motivation :)
Mounting
At first some remarks regarding the color of the fittings. I thought about some grey, like the Tabloid in Hendon, but at the moment I think to let them as raw metallic.
Slowly I start to hit the home stretch!
The tail gets the control wires.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1bLOtWF14WG-NXfAVrDOHn2vWmkd5Eg_B)
From below the one for the rudder is visible too. Added also struts made from squished brass.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1Kdso5qG_TwwgD4pNFkA-R51dE3QJfHXf)
The upper wing was painted with a additional thin layer to reduce the strong contrast to the fuselage. After that I added the last decals. Later after a clear coat layer the wing was CA'ed to the fuselage.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1ifR9S1Xk4BblsYS4n3Db8ixy9Y5Iw7hs)
On the gear I added a big amount of Gaspatch turnbuckles (type "One end") and eyelets. I was a bit afraid of this task because of possible damage to the wooden construction. Together with some metal fittings the gear was mounted to the fuselage.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1C_E0-fxN4IaNZZO5hZZRUdJ4jY0QWiny)
The next step was adding the rigging of the gear ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1FDhAnSLxxYNXKQ5cbxpDzvmxPIpaIMKb)
... with nine wires!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=189CaNAjrC34bSX0WNlr7YAZbThn-RKT5)
The middle one needed most of the time, adding it at first instead as last one seems to be easier!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1hr5_u0CDpG5KmI1dD5SeCL_YwKR96yXf)
This was the last update of the old year! I like to wish all readers a great year to come!
Cheers,
Frank
-
The gear mounting and rigging looks gorgeous! Very well done! Looks great with the upper wing mounted!
RAIII
-
8) WOW
-
Every up-date is a pure gem and joy to follow, Frank, my hat is off to your skills!
Cheers and all the best in the new year or "einen guten Rutsch". ;)
Cheers
Ondra
-
I am at a loss for words.... Outstanding is inadequate :D
-
Beautifully done Frank, your work is in a class of it's own!
And Happy New Year to you as well!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Thank you very much!
Rigging
At first a small amount of wood and brass parts are needed:
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1GprFt0gjzEB1eD51mogIoBsPnJ0lLmjm)
The upper right parts are for the tail skid, two layers of wood.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1eOnymKEi_821M-LEDvzbUf1f9_L-kdTx)
After mounting it looks nice, luckily it could not be directed.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1FBULdHNa9Z9W8cGP4X4wTjCRaOiJUuZP)
The upper right part in first pic is a small strut, which could be added due to change of the kit layout of the front. It is clearly visible on the orig pictures.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1aeyCUK9GjeTC_Zu--_tlOgB7S_DWkBDc)
I started the rigging of the upper wing, much easier in this state.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1RVT9nzQ3t88ylWh3Z-xOK2uhoQV6MOYp)
On the lower wing there is a problem! There are only cones, with makes a) the line up and b) the secure mounting very hard.
My solution: I drilled holes in both wings on the backwards cone and plugged in 0.6mm nickel silver.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1o7em876dGS2gbbMHj1LnLbWavAcC1Gju)
Just plugged both parts stays strongly on the fuselage.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=104jIfAbQ2JWe5X5OfKq3mQakGuO3MIll)
After the careful mounting of the struts the rigging could be finalized.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1tA-zrqHUGTfgTL9axeUTgthPOFqMpuYV)
For location of the turnbuckles I used pictures of the Tabloid in Hendon due to missing other sources. E.g. here is a turnbuckle for the wing warping, the wire ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1pixZq2MnGxwjr5mWsjrr3P6dJendBnDu)
... goes over the pulley in the upper struts to the other side.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1t7g2xblT-GG3Q4BlUCVYbeIMpG7FlWhJ)
The Gaspatch turnbuckles are mostly of type "One End" and anchor points, but here I have used two of type "Albatros", ...
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1X_rmjpePOVh1exLR2C85eXmy9gQ9VtoT)
... to connect the foremost struts to the gear.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1I2YA3h4VpeX-XKT_lfEKFITZ-oA4wBMS)
So the battle against the rigging is over!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1aiKPUK_ZO76ScM-a8O9UGXaw4NKIdmN7)
The air screw and the wheels need some care and the whole biplane a bit weathering - this project come to an end soon!
Cheers,
Frank
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A fantastic start to the New Year Frank, she really is looking absolutely outstanding!
Happy New Year!
Ian
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Rigging is beutiful as all the build. Chapeau!
Ciao
Giuseppe
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You have done a brilliant job with this model, the rigging and the undercarriage are superb.
Des.
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Thank you my freinds!
The model is finished now, please see the final pictures in Completed models:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=9167.0
Thank you all for escorting me through this build! See you in next project :)
Cheers,
Frank
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This build report was assumed as finished, but ...
During stow away I looked again into the Windsock Datafile - the pictures of the Sopwith Schneider, the famous float plane, are very nice too! There is also a second Datafile 60 about Sopwith Baby, which contains also drawings of the Schneider including floats.
And yesterday morning there we had snow chaos on the streets. After long time on the street without progress, I turned and was 7 minutes later back at home to call the boss - take a day off for modeling!
Since I was still in the "scratch" mode since the Nieuport cowling on weekend and I wanted to to something with wood I started to create ...
Floats
Cut stripes of plywood. 3 of them are thick enough for one float. At first glued two, drilled bling holes to be filled up with a bad alloy of solder. I want to avoid tail sitter!
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=17ykHU5cwwlPc3LwTX_hl9MqUiziP9wo4)
After gluing the last stripe the lead is no more visible. With my small Proxxon disc sander the floats reaches the final form within seconds.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1qZFR-Do-MsNeKur6WrbADWBud6H758fT)
The sides are also slightly sanded to reach nearly the needed width. After that it was planked with my nice pear wood.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1HVEcnpCoq0akTf63BP6VjwoAM9p3kL09)
After the dry glue a sanded the veneer carefully to reach the contour.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1_1Ck5Gx6B9yP08rhNQ4Dhs0_XpsAPCha)
For the up and down layer I had to bend the veneer with steam and glue it to the floats.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1bDs4NQb3_2i0lc0p-GWtp91eyk4Hfv-S)
The beading was intended and mentioned the the Datafile drawing. I have to reduce the thickness further and sand the beading to the final size.
(http://drive.google.com/uc?export=view&id=1JByzogiKDexodB86J8pp5JJUzsfHLo-h)
After primer and clear varnish it will hopefully looks like spar varnish!
(http://www.ctie.monash.edu.au/hargrave/images/sopwith_tabloid_pixton_500.jpg)
Source:www.ctie.monash.edu.au
I really like the outcome! No, I will not replace the undercarriage of the Lebed. One day I want to build a Sopwith Schneider (or Baby) with the 100hp engine on this floats. I do not want to start a new build report now, but it matches this aircraft and kit very closely. And with a idea in my head sometimes I need to check immediately if it works or not ;)
Cheers,
Frank
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Those floats look gorgeous Frank. I'm looking forward to seeing a Baby being "born"!
Ian
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I totally agree with Ian!
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Great, Frank!
I like the idea with the solder taken as counter weight.
No need to talk about your wood work. Top as always.
Bye,
Manni
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As always, a cut above!
Lovely,
Guy
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Awesome floats and I am also looking forward to your Baby!
RAGIII
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Frank,
Results like that from rescuing a bad day!? Great result for sure, and your project for the future is now assured. Nicely done!
Cheers,
Lance
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Wow Frank, your snow day was not a total loss, those floats are the beginning to another masterpiece.
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Thank you my friends for such overwhelming feedback! I promise to write a build report here, if the final project is running.
The easy shape of those very early floats invites me to try it that way. With more modern rounded shapes it would not be that easy and is may be better to stay with plastic and wood simulation with oils.
Cheers,
Frank
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Hi Frank!
You sent me a message about this work. So, it's really amazing, I enjoyed every steps!
I "stole" other ideas, for example the wooden floats. I work only in 72nd scale so I must to be more carefully for the reduced dimensions, but really I think I will use some of your ideas in the future! I worked sometimes with real wood, I never tried only to build a carved airscrew. Also because I have a good amount of produced ones from Martin Digmayer and sometimes I used oil colors to represent wood. I was convinced that in 72nd scale is not possible to see veener, everytime I saw this I think that they are overscale.
Finally, your Lebed is really a great work!
Roberto
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Thank you very much, Roberto!
I was convinced that in 72nd scale is not possible to see veener, everytime I saw this I think that they are overscale.
I tried it only once in 1/72 and I must admit, that a aircrew in 1/48 is easier to do, but it works:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=8721.msg160381#msg160381
Cheers,
Frank
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Yes!
I know that it works building airscrews in 72nd scale with real wood, do you know Martin Digmayer range? Maybe I think that Martin stopped production, but I have a stock of little gems in my "hangar". The most appreciated thing is that Martin respected the real ones with colors too. I know that everyone of us are fascinating by "two tone" wooden props, they gave to models more beauty. But if you need, for example, a Chauviere for your Nieuport 17, they were "solid brown" because of the type of woods used and of the paints for protection.
If I spend hours and money in searching for the right colors of my models, I enclose also props in this research (and tyres too! Another "weak" point...).
Cheers!
Roberto