forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: kuya on June 24, 2017, 10:51:34 PM
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I have been stocking up on washes.
Mainly for OD colors on Brtish, CDL so a tan and green washes I have purchased from AMMO
And similar for German aircraft and also use oils for metallic
So what's in your box for washes and why?
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Hello kuya
I tend not to use proprietary brands of washes, preferring to mix my own, as needs arise, from my basic set of oil colours. When mixed with appropriate thinners, I can secure excellent viscosity, and get fast drying times. Cleaning any overpaint is very easy with thinners without leaving any tide mark.
Best wishes
Nigel
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I use water colors. Simple to use and simple to clean up. Fast drying time, as well.
Cheers,
Bud
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Hello kuya
I tend not to use proprietary brands of washes, preferring to mix my own, as needs arise, from my basic set of oil colours. When mixed with appropriate thinners, I can secure excellent viscosity, and get fast drying times. Cleaning any overpaint is very easy with thinners without leaving any tide mark.
Best wishes
Nigel
I do also with oil's but on the crankcase, .fins .gun barrels so mostly metal fittings.
And oil pigments are rich in color, the drying time is the downfall .
I use washes in the past with later era's in aviation it's the ease to open a bottle
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I use water based oil paints. They dry quicker and I like the way they allow for a more controlled streaking effect as seen with oil in the slip stream. You can buy a whole set of colors in tubes for $24 USD.
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I use water based oil paints. They dry quicker and I like the way they allow for a more controlled streaking effect as seen with oil in the slip stream. You can buy a whole set of colors in tubes for $24 USD.
I actually was given a set by a fellow club member but never used them.
never thought of using them for streaking
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to me oils are better for controlling the effect. they flow better and after the thinner drys you can moisten your brush and pull them out to fade and gradiate perfectly. water color washes dry so fast it makes them a rush to work them imho. i do ocationally use water thinned india ink in sepia and black but not too often and only when im using enamel paints as thinner in an oil wash will also melt your basecoat if not careful. i mostly use acrylics for basecoats so oil washes work the best. this is of course based on my experience and techniques.
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Over the years I've used home made oil washes, water color washes, so-called sludge washes, and pigment washes. I've found I prefer the oil-based ones but recently I've become quite fond of the various AK and Mig AMMO pre-made washes. Particularly the latter's PLWs (Panel Line Washes).
Eric
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Over the years I've used home made oil washes, water color washes, so-called sludge washes, and pigment washes. I've found I prefer the oil-based ones but recently I've become quite fond of the various AK and Mig AMMO pre-made washes. Particularly the latter's PLWs (Panel Line Washes).
Eric
I basically am the same as Eric. I'll use an oil wash for simulating a leather seat. oily engine, Fokker streaking or wood effects etc. Things were I like the slow drying time of oils because I may be reworking it several times before I get the effect I'm looking for.
For panel lines etc. I have a 4 color set of Tamiya enamel based washes. (Black, Brown, Dark Brown and Gray)
I usually paint in either Mr. Color lacquer based paints of Tamiya acrylic based paints so the enamel based washes don't have an adverse effect on the painted finish.
I've never had much luck with water based washes as they usually dry too quickly or too blotchy for me.
Chuck