forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Scratch builds => Topic started by: RLWP on April 04, 2017, 02:30:45 AM
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This has been nagging at me for years, ever since I came across Harry Woodman's book
This is a wing for a Morane Saulnier Parasol, it's pretty much pure Harry Woodman:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Wing-1.JPG)
Terrible image. That's a scribed 0/010" skin on a 1/16" balsa core. The only deviation from Harry's method is that I sprayed the balsa with grey primer rather than 'paint it with thin cement'
To get the camber on the wing, I made a balsa former and taped it to a build board:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Wing-2.JPG)
I must sort my lighting out
The wing isn't perfect, it's good enough to encourage me to carry on
Flushed with success, here is the fuselage:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Fuselage-1.JPG)
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Fuselage-2.JPG)
Now, I can see how I'm going to tackle the engine, I have a WNW one from a Pup. I've ordered an armaments sprue to provide the Cooper bomb rack. Harry covers how to make the control surfaces, I'm OK on the cockpit details
Where I can see me getting stuck is on the struts and undercarriage. Any advice?
Richard
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Hello Richard, what a joy to follow your scratch build! It looks very nice! It is going to be a fantastic parasol.
When it comes to struts I stick to my albion alloy's 'the strutter' tool, that helps you, using a vice, to squeeze brassrod into strut shape. I insert steel wire in it and - voila, you even can solder it...
Best regards
Borsos
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Hi Borsos, is this the tool?
http://modelskills.co.uk/tools/45-the-strutter.html
(http://modelskills.co.uk/45-145-thickbox/the-strutter.jpg)
Richard
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Exactly!
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That looks promising, making brass tubes that can be soldered would suit the Parasol very well
How do you decide which tube to use, and do you use the wire to make the tube the right width?
Richard
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Just trying what fits the scale plans. I always have a selection of brass rod from 0,2 mm to 1,5 mm width at home to try it out. Normally I use 0,5 or 0,7 mm wire. As you can sand these struts quite well you can shape them, reduce thickness or make two pairs more similar to each other. I know some people dislike that way of making struts as there actually is some sort of guesswork in it. But with some practice you can create quite regularly shaped struts and I don't know any better way to make strong and easy workable struts. There are people that cast their struts in resin using wire as a core but oh, casting resin, that's not my cup of tea....
Borsos
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That all looks like my kind of technology, I'll get some tube
Meanwhile, this evening's fun. This is my rusty trusty, vacuum cleaner powered vacuum forming kit!:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Cowl-1.JPG)
I turned up this from a bit of scrap aluminium:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Cowl-2.JPG)
and vacuum formed this:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Cowl-3.JPG)
I used 0.010", which is really a bit thin. 0.020" would have been better:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Cowl-4.JPG)
Richard
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Richard,
I regularly push mould parts for my 1/72 scale models and I find that 030 thou card is the best because it makes forms which take a shape well but also have strength and are easier to finish. 020 card also works well but I would really hesitate to use 010 card - it is just too thin and flimsy.
This is a super project and of course of an aircraft which is unlikely to be released as a kit. Great to see some scratch building in the larger scale - I will be following with interest.
Stephen.
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Wow Richard, really looking forward to your project progressing.
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Will also be glued to this one, looks like a great subject for a scratch build
Really like how you did the cowling :)
Mark
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Wow Richard, you are doing some "real" modelling here! I'll be following and learning from your progress.
Cheers,
Lance
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Richard,
I regularly push mould parts for my 1/72 scale models and I find that 030 thou card is the best because it makes forms which take a shape well but also have strength and are easier to finish. 020 card also works well but I would really hesitate to use 010 card - it is just too thin and flimsy.
This is a super project and of course of an aircraft which is unlikely to be released as a kit. Great to see some scratch building in the larger scale - I will be following with interest.
Stephen.
Looking back - as always - I remember trying to use 0.010" before and failing. Next time I used 0.020" for this:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/martlesham-misses/pup-cowl-2.JPG)
That is much more manageable. Naturally, I forgot and used 0.010" again. I think I have got away with it:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Cowl-5.JPG)
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Cowl-6.JPG)
Richard
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Fantastic skill, Richard!Looks great.
Bye,
Manni
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I love scratch building so this build of yours has caught my interest greatly. What you have achieved so far is looking excellent, I will be following along closely.
Des.
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I love scratch building so this build of yours has caught my interest greatly. What you have achieved so far is looking excellent, I will be following along closely.
Des.
Your enthusiasm for scratch building shows in your models, Des - it's very inspirational
The Parasol is an aeroplane I always associate with Cecil Lewis, from reading Sagittarius Rising. There's a lovely description in the book of what happens if you land without remembering to wind in the radio aerial
He's in one of the BBC interviews, there's a fascinating bit at around six minutes:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p01tczfx/the-great-war-interviews-4-cecil-arthur-lewis
Richard
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You most decidedly have gotten away with it, Richard. Your cowling looks fantastic, as does the rest of your build, thus far.
Cheers,
Bud
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The cowling looks great as does the rest of your scratch build This is one I always thought would be cool to do as my first. I think you are showing me I am not ready as your build is just awesome!
RAGIII
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Lovely work so far, Richard! I'm looking forward to seeing it progress. I must re-read Sagitarius Rising, it's been many years since I read it.
Ian
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The cowling looks great as does the rest of your scratch build This is one I always thought would be cool to do as my first. I think you are showing me I am not ready as your build is just awesome!
RAGIII
Then I shall stop until you have a go! The cowl aside, most of this is very basic stuff, just following the instructions. I did concise making the cowl from a thick disk and wall, with the radius filed onto the corner
Richard
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This is great work, Richard! I have also found Harry Woodman (MHDSRIP) to be a great inspiration - and yes, you are showing us how to do this in 1/32! Don't be surprised if I grab some plasticard and... But to get back to the M-S - a really favourite subject of mine! I'm looking forward to more! Regards, Marc
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Where are you getting your engine from? It's annoyingly the one which WNW never made available separately AFAIK.
Or are you going to scratch it?
Mark
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Great execution!!
Steve
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Where are you getting your engine from? It's annoyingly the one which WNW never made available separately AFAIK.
Or are you going to scratch it?
Mark
From the WNW Pup. I have a Pup I'm modifying to have a Gnome
Richard
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<snip>
When it comes to struts I stick to my albion alloy's 'the strutter' tool, that helps you, using a vice, to squeeze brassrod into strut shape. I insert steel wire in it and - voila, you even can solder it...
Best regards
Borsos
Well, this has been great advice. My vice has flat, smooth jaws so I have managed without the 'Strutter'
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Undercarriage-1.JPG)
This is 1/16" brass tube with a brass wire in the centre. I found I couldn't withdraw the wire as I have probably used too much squish
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Undercarriage-2.JPG)
Comparing photos to the drawing in the Windsock Datafile, I have come up with my own arrangement for the axle location
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Undercarriage-3.JPG)
So far, so good
Richard
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Lovely job making the undercarriage Richard, the struts look excellent.
Des.
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Lovely job making the undercarriage Richard, the struts look excellent.
Des.
This has been an absolute revelation to me, Des. I have spent several evenings messing about with kit parts to get anything nearly as good as this. Building parts up from scratch takes away all the 'do I keep this/replace that/mend this' that goes with kit modification
Richard
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Wonderful project Richard! This is one I've always contemplated. You are making a splendid job of it! Also, I love your vacuform machine!
Best regards,
Bob
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Wonderful project Richard! This is one I've always contemplated. You are making a splendid job of it! Also, I love your vacuform machine!
Best regards,
Bob
Thanks Bob. I must modify that vacuform tool, I made it to fit a vacuum cleaner that packed up not long after. Naturally, it doesn't fit our new vacuum cleaner
Richard
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Richard, I totally agree with you about scratch building taking away the "do I do this/repair that….etc" There is also something completely different about a completed model: it still has its warts but they are ALL mine!
Rick: do not be shy - give it a go. It does not take much and you have already demonstrated more than enough skill to complete such a build. Richard is demonstrating very ably how relatively simple it all is - much easier than you may think. Come to that so have many other modellers on this site!
Stephen
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When I am finished, am I allowed to run around the house with it going brrrr-brrr-brrr?
Richard
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Absolutely. You can do it after sunset - depends on your neighborhood.
Borsos
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When I am finished, am I allowed to run around the house with it going brrrr-brrr-brrr?
Richard
what about ratatta-ratatta-tat?
Admire your building skills. Perhaps you are channeling Harry. 😉
Cheers
Syd
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I have finished the access panels:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Panel-1.JPG)
And now I have taken the picture, I notice I have missed off a bit of strip!
Next up is the internal rigging wires, and I'm not entirely sure how I am going to do them
Richard
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wonderful work
acces panels are just perfects!
Xan
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I had a complicated plan for the internal wires, and ended up using a simple plan:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Rigging-1.JPG)
I was going to use two complicated zig-zag bits of copper wire. In the end, these are separate bits of copper wire positioned and secured with a drop of superglue
Good enough for an illusion
Richard
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Absolutely! It's very convincing. The more I look at your build the more I want a Morane Saulnier L too...
Can't wait for the next update
Borsos
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Fust enough to give an impression….not enough to make a complete mess!
Stephen.
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Fust enough to give an impression….not enough to make a complete mess!
Stephen.
Exactly. You have described the compromise to perfection
Richard
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Looking really good, Richard! I'm enjoying the pictures and the solutions to the build challenges! Great Modelling! Marc
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Small steps
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/bitsnbobs-1.JPG)
Top left is the WnW engine with a tidied up Academy prop from the scrap box.
Top right is the rudder - a bit of shaped balsa sandwiched between a couple of sheets of styrene. The grey bits are filler from where clothes pegs dented the styrene during bodging
Bottom are the joystick and rudder bar. There is a strong element of creativity going on here as I'm not sure what the originals looked like. Still, Harry Woodman seems clear that completing a model is better than obsessing over unknown details. I'm trying to follow that
Richard
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Coming along beautifully Richard, the little details make all the difference.
Des.
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Thank you, Des. These bits actually worry me - I know that I can get stuck in the middle of these fiddly bits and not finish a project
On the subject of internal bits and bobs, I want to equip this 'plane with a spark transmitter. I believe this is the 'right' unit:
(http://blogs.mhs.ox.ac.uk/innovatingincombat/files/2014/03/Fig6-No1-Aircraft.jpg)
http://blogs.mhs.ox.ac.uk/innovatingincombat/tag/wireless/
In addition, I think there would have been an aerial on a reel, a 6V battery and a key - perhaps fireproof. Does anyone have illustrations of the battery and key?
Richard
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Yes, I was trying to decide between 'battery' and 'accumulator'. I went for battery as I thought more people would recognise the term
;)
Richard
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Whatever term you use you are making an excellent replica of this machine. In this scale these details really matter but equally very few people will know exactly what different components looked like.
Stephen.
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WNW's website has a lot of pics.
Check those out as I found some of the details for other builds there.
Indeed. For instance, the RE.8 has the Stirling spark transmitter, aerial reel and accumulator as optional accessories and they are shown in the instructions. What I can't find is a picture of the actual accumulator, or of the Stirling set installed.
It isn't really surprising. The accumulator would need recharging, and apparently the spark gap transmitters also needed servicing after every flight
Richard
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Brilliant work to date. The bracing wires are certainly convincing and the stick and rudder bar look great!
RAGIII
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Thank you!
This is my take on the pilot and observer's seats:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/bitsnbobs-2.JPG)
The seat back is too tall, I'm leaving it. The box under the observers seat appears to be a pair of boards to stop him standing on the control cables. I have added a top
I've sorted out the lovely tubular hinge arrangement for the tailplane and rudder:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Tail-1.JPG)
And a Blu-Tac assembly:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Progress-1.JPG)
Richard
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Lovely!
Borsos
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A touch of colour:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Progress-2.JPG)
I've also finished the undercarriage, I may have overdone the axle deflection - it looks rather more like a Camel
Richard
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I think I have made a bit more progress on this:
(http://blogs.mhs.ox.ac.uk/innovatingincombat/files/2014/03/Fig6-No1-Aircraft.jpg)
There are other images and articles online, this one for instance:
(http://www.museumoftechnology.org.uk/images/A0137_ex.jpg)
http://www.museumoftechnology.org.uk/objects/_expand.php?key=518
This shows the wander plug for the variable inductance coil and the scales, the aerial connection bottom left, the earth connection top left. I'm wondering if the morse key is the central button of the bit labelled 'spark gap adjuster'
I'd like to run down where the battery was connected, it may be via the ammeter on top for the positive
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Ahhh, this might help!
http://www.tuberadio.com/robinson/museum/Sterling_Spark/
Richard
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Thanks Richard for the link, it is excellent reference material for anyone wanting to scratch build one of these transmitters.
Des.
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Love what you have done so far, looking forward to your progress.
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Thanks Richard for the link, it is excellent reference material for anyone wanting to scratch build one of these transmitters.
Des.
It has certainly helped me. It looks to me like the morse key was probably attached to the observer's leg
Richard
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More progress:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Tailplane-1.JPG)
Richard
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Your scratchbuilding skills are really admirable and very inspirative, many thanks for sharing the photos of the progress.
Cheers
Ondra
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Your scratchbuilding skills are really admirable and very inspirative, many thanks for sharing the photos of the progress.
Cheers
Ondra
Thank you. Do you know how long those tailplanes took? A little less than an hour. They have a 0.020" core roughly sanded to have thin edges. The outer is 0.010" card, scribed for the ribs. In addition, there is a 0.030" piece of pivot steel for the - er - pivots
It really does need no more than basic modelling skills to make them
Richard
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Hello Richard, what a joy to follow your scratch build! It looks very nice! It is going to be a fantastic parasol.
When it comes to struts I stick to my albion alloy's 'the strutter' tool, that helps you, using a vice, to squeeze brassrod into strut shape. I insert steel wire in it and - voila, you even can solder it...
Best regards
Borsos
Well, Borsos, you have provided me with a new way of making struts, and it has made making this model so much easier. I thought I was going to be messing about with bits of shaped sprue wobbling about and falling apart. Instead, squished tube is simple, strong and very easy for me to work with. I cannot thank you enough
My aeroplane has a wing!
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Cabane-1.JPG)
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Cabane-2.JPG)
Richard
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hell yeah ,this looks great so far. keep up the good work
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Your scratchbuilding skills are really admirable and very inspirative, many thanks for sharing the photos of the progress.
Cheers
Ondra
Thank you. Do you know how long those tailplanes took? A little less than an hour. They have a 0.020" core roughly sanded to have thin edges. The outer is 0.010" card, scribed for the ribs. In addition, there is a 0.030" piece of pivot steel for the - er - pivots
It really does need no more than basic modelling skills to make them
Richard
Thanks for the description! I am a bit into scratchbuilding too, so every inspiration is very welcome, especially with step by step documentation as in case of your build!
Great job.
Ondra
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looking at you nice build again i was noticing the landing gear. doesnt the type L have the 3 rods system like the other moranes. in other words the center rod was the axle and was sort of free floating on bungees and the forwar and rear rods were solidly attached to the landing gear center and outer "v" type legs. i will have to check my datafile but i am pretty sure all the early moranes were like this.
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looking at you nice build again i was noticing the landing gear. doesnt the type L have the 3 rods system like the other moranes. in other words the center rod was the axle and was sort of free floating on bungees and the forwar and rear rods were solidly attached to the landing gear center and outer "v" type legs. i will have to check my datafile but i am pretty sure all the early moranes were like this.
Not from my interpretation of pictures, no it doesn't. I know the drawing in the Datafile shows it that way. The early short nosed Parasols may have been like that
Richard
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as well as the plans look at the photos in the datafile under morane L in detail the close up of the fuselage without fabric cover and you can easily see there "is" the standard morane type gear.also at least 4 or 5 other datafile pics if you look close show it to be true. although most pics you cannot for sure see. also there are also at least 2 landing gear config for type L. one is like yours and one kicks forward. the standard morane 3 rod, shock absorber system is as well portrayed that way in eduards 1/48 and az models 1/72. its up to you though its your model i just didnt know if you had seen that this is how they were made so i mentioned it as if i had perhaps missed something i would hope someone would mention it to me. i doubt if it will be a big deal either way.
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Try the picture on the bottom of page 11. It shows the axle at the front and the bungees. It also shows the retaining rod and it's bracket, very much like the ski 'plane in the centre of page 12
I don't doubt that the kits are like that - bet they were made from the drawing in the datafile
Richard
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the ones you site with the skis, perhaps it was different when using skis. although the pic at the bottom of page 12 with the skis looks like you can see another rod peeking out from behind. most of the pics are not clear whats happening due to the angle and crudeness of the pics. to me page 16 says it all ,its the only truly clear picture of the gear ,some a handful suggest there is multiple rods but most are to far away and too unclear to tell. hey like i said its your model do it how you want. maybe some had one axle.
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On that picture on page 16 - can you make sense of the firewall? It appears to extend right across to the outside of the cowl and have a lower part. I cannot reconcile that with pictures showing a clear gap to allow hot gasses out of the cowl.
I'm choosing to interpret the landing gear as I have modelled it. I can't tell if there are two or three bars in my copy. If there are two, the rear is to brace the legs, the front is the axle and is restrained in the same way as the ski example. If there are three, I can't make out the slot in the drawings, and I can't explain the structure added to the front of the legs
There is so little information on these early aeroplanes
Richard
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I can't help feeling I have been told I'm 'doing this wrong' because my interpretation of the information available to me doesn't match the Ian Stair drawing. I've decided to say this rather than just give up on this model, otherwise I'll never get it finished
That might sound a bit blunt, however I currently have a huge pile of abandoned models and I would really like to get this one complete. Yes, maybe the undercarriage isn't 'right', I'm going to stick with it.
Apologies for being forthright, I have tried to say this carefully
Richard
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Hi Richard, I for one am enjoying your build immensely and hope you continue, after all, its your model.
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I didnt mean to cause any grief. I have been heavily into these old bird for the last decade plus only so i dont claim to be an expert. I mentioned it as its been the way i have understood it to be for some time but that doeant mean im necessarily right. What i see is at best an educated opinion but there may have been different ways so build what you want .
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Whatever the state of the undercarriage legs I think that you are making an exceptionally good model. Thanks too for explaining that scratch building does not take an infinite amount of skill - if it did I would not be a scratch builder!!
Stephen.
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I didnt mean to cause any grief. I have been heavily into these old bird for the last decade plus only so i dont claim to be an expert. I mentioned it as its been the way i have understood it to be for some time but that doeant mean im necessarily right. What i see is at best an educated opinion but there may have been different ways so build what you want .
I have also been fascinated by them for a long time, and have wondered about many of the details. I think I have interpreted the legs correctly based on what makes sense, supported by what is on the ski 'planes.
If you use the two tubes as shown, one coming straight down and one sloping from the back, you automatically get one of the faces of the slot for the axle. then you need something to stop it flopping out the front, that explains the round topped bracket with a bar down the front. If you extend the sloping member forward, you get somewhere to anchor the bungees. In my opinion that makes a very simple and strong structure, especially when the legs and the centre vee (for the rigging wires) are tied together with a simple bar.
Putting in a slot between the legs makes sense on the early aeroplanes with the sloping leading leg, on the later ones, it just complicates things and doesn't explain that front bracket
As you say, in the absence of some contemporary information, its all about interpretation. And my interpretation happens to differ from Ian Stair's for the reasons above. I wouldn't like to say mine is right, or that Ian's is wrong for that matter.
Thanks for replying, I appreciate it. And apologies for getting in a bit of a snit over it - anyone interested in these peculiar old birds must have an appreciation of the finer things in life. There are clearly at least two of us!
Richard
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About the firewall in the picture on page 16;
I feel I should be very cautious in offering any interpretation of the ancient pictures in the Datafile(!), but, here goes:
Seems to me the angle doesn't quite show enough ie. it isn't obvious to me that the firewall does go all the way across, because the bare metal edge of the cowl obscures where the gap is/would be - ?
Still following your build with fascination!
Cheers, Mark
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About the firewall in the picture on page 16;
I feel I should be very cautious in offering any interpretation of the ancient pictures in the Datafile(!), but, here goes:
Seems to me the angle doesn't quite show enough ie. it isn't obvious to me that the firewall does go all the way across, because the bare metal edge of the cowl obscures where the gap is/would be - ?
Still following your build with fascination!
Cheers, Mark
Weird, isn't it. The firewall seems to go outside of the wooden framework
Richard
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A bit of impressionism:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/radio-gear-1.JPG)
Spark transmitter in the middle, aerial reel on the right and a completely fictitious battery box on the left
Richard
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perfect :)
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Beautiful work with the three items, the transmitter is excellent and the wood colours are superb.
Des.
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Beautiful work with the three items, the transmitter is excellent and the wood colours are superb.
Des.
More by luck than anything else, Des. It's white primer, then diluted brown acrylic pulled about with a brush until it looks sort of wood like. Then stop - that's the important bit
Richard
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Outstanding, looks like your pictures.
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Cockade masks. I want to paint the cockades, what do I use to make masks?
Richard
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Where are you from, Richard? I have a plotter, so if you can give me the dimensions you need, cutting the masks for you would not be a problem.
Cheers
Ondra
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Where are you from, Richard? I have a plotter, so if you can give me the dimensions you need, cutting the masks for you would not be a problem.
Cheers
Ondra
That's a very kind offer, thank you. I'm in the UK
I'm OK on cutting the cockades, they are only concentric circles and I have a nice Olfa cutter for that. But what material do I cut them out from?
Richard
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I have good experience with Tamiya masking stuff. It's Kabuki paper that works really fine.
Borsos
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I have good experience with Tamiya masking stuff. It's Kabuki paper that works really fine.
Borsos
This stuff?:
http://shop.maketar.com/?product=print-cut-a4-yellow-kabuki-sheet
Richard
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Yes, exactly. Much better than vinyl in my opinion.
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Perfect! I have ordered some
I was tempted to get some of their custom cut cockades
Richard
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Where are you from, Richard? I have a plotter, so if you can give me the dimensions you need, cutting the masks for you would not be a problem.
Cheers
Ondra
That's a very kind offer, thank you. I'm in the UK
I'm OK on cutting the cockades, they are only concentric circles and I have a nice Olfa cutter for that. But what material do I cut them out from?
Richard
Ok, I see. I am fully with Borsos on this, Tamiya is definitely the best choice.
Cheers
Ondra
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There is a ridiculous amount of work in turning these wheels, mostly in holding them to machine the second face:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Undercarriage-4.JPG)
I had a lucky break too. The tyres are 'O'rings, and an AS 586A - 114 is spot on for size. Only I turned the retaining groove a little too small making the tyre loose. But a 113 works!
This does leave the tricky problem of painting a nitrile 'O'ring grey, no matter
Richard
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(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Progress-3.JPG)
Richard
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wow. Hats off for that courageous work making the wheels. Another way would have been to make resin copies of existing kit's wheels. But if you are such a bad resin caster as I am... Well however, great looking wheels!
Borsos
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Amazing work, very inspirational.
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wow. Hats off for that courageous work making the wheels. Another way would have been to make resin copies of existing kit's wheels. But if you are such a bad resin caster as I am... Well however, great looking wheels!
Borsos
Resin casting isn't a skill that I have, however using a lathe is!
Amazing work, very inspirational.
Thank you
Richard
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That model has really moved forward in the last couple of days - and my it looks soooooo good! Those wheels are truly impressive - and I haven't mentioned the engine, cowling and rest of the fuselage yet….!
Stephen.
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That model has really moved forward in the last couple of days - and my it looks soooooo good! Those wheels are truly impressive - and I haven't mentioned the engine, cowling and rest of the fuselage yet….!
Stephen.
Thank you
Well, the undercarriage might be right, it might be wrong. Either way, it didn't look right, so I cut out the hinged axle and replaced it with a straight one:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Undercarriage-5.JPG)
That looks better
Richard
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Very impressive work on the undercarriage Richard, the wheels turned out excellent, and the painting on the fuselage and engine cowl looks superb.
Des.
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It's really coming together nicely now Richard, very impressive even at this early stage, Great work on the wheels and undercarriage, great finish and paint, and that prop is superb!
Cheers,
Lance
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Undercarriage looks painted even better and to go with a straight axle is definitely an additional improvement. This turns more and more into an extraordinary pretty model! I begin to think about doing a MS L as well :)
Borsos
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Simply superb skills! The fuselage painting and the landing gear are spectacular!
RAGIII
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And now we have a bomb release thingy:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Bomb-release.JPG)
I can't tell if Sub Lieutenant Warneford VC is impressed or not
I'm trying to work out how this works. It would be handy to know so I can run the release cable correctly
Richard
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Just wow. This are model skills.
Chapeau!
Manni
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Great work!!
Steve
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Hurray hurrah! The etch for the bomb rack has arrived from HGW
This bomb rack has somehow become an important link in the assembly process. I can't finish the undercarriage without fitting the Cooper bomb rack. I don't want to fit the joystick until the undercarriage is on, otherwise the bit below the fuselage will get broken. I can't put the seats in until the joystick is in. I can't detail the cockpit without the seats. No way can I detail the cockpit with the wing on. I'm not fitting the tailfeathers until that wing is in place...
Funny old game, this modelling lark
Richard
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Uh-oh, here we go again. I had a simple plan - use the WnW bomb rack on the RFC weapons sprue. It'll be fine, right?
This is it:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Bomb-rack-2.JPG)
Now, mounted under a solid fuselage that's probably OK. But under a Parasol, the top face is very exposed. This is the top face:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Bomb-rack-1.JPG)
It isn't a lot like a Cooper bomb rack shown in this image I found on the internet:
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee234/sopsnpe/Cooperrack2.jpg)
http://s231.photobucket.com/user/sopsnpe/media/Cooperrack2.jpg.html
Browsing about, I found the HGW etch to dress up the WnW rack: http://hgwmodels.cz/en/132-scale/173-rfc-bomb-tail-rack-pe-set-132-132020.html
Handy, because it provides the missing curved brackets to support the bombs. This is important as I plan to model an empty rack
This is the etch:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Bomb-rack-4.JPG)
And that's where it all started. The real rack is a thin, pressed metal thing with a tubular frame. The etch is a thin metal thing, so.....
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Bomb-rack-5.JPG)
A couple of bits of brass angle, a bit of copper wire, a few strips of brass and then parts from the etch
It's delicate, and I've already damaged one of the rear brackets. It will be safer when it is in place:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Bomb-rack-6.JPG)
Madness.
Richard
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Not madness Richard but dedication, you are certainly going all the way with trying to add as much detail as possible, this is the type of thing I love to do when scratch building. Looking forward to seeing what you do next.
Des.
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Great work, Richard.
...and a little madness helps to stay nomal in the real life.
Manni
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Madness? Welcome to the house of fun..
At least it's a joy to follow your scratch building progress. The bomb rack looks fantastic!
Borsos
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Madness? Welcome to the house of fun..
At least it's a joy to follow your scratch building progress. The bomb rack looks fantastic!
Borsos
Thank you, I'm pleased with how it has come out
Richard
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Madness? Welcome to the house of fun..
At least it's a joy to follow your scratch building progress. The bomb rack looks fantastic!
Borsos
Thank you, I'm pleased with how it has come out
Richard
You are pleased and I am Blown Away 8)
RAGIII
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Mounting the bomb rack onto the undercarriage was becoming a bit of a nightmare. This is the best I can do:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Bomb-rack-7.JPG)
The card and Blu-Tac supports the rack so I can solder support struts onto it. I'll be damned if I can work out how the RNAS actually did the job, this is my best guess. It looks a bit flimsy across the front for me
Never mind, it's good enough. Just don't go on bombing runs across the Dardanelles if you expect to hit anything with it
Richard
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Hi Richard, you're too funny ;D. Looks really good, truly enjoying your build.
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Parts count is going down now. Blobs and lumps in the cockpit:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Cockpit-2.JPG)
Some of the bits are right, like the tachometer and the fuel level gauge, maybe the pulsometer. The board on the right seems to be correct too, and there is an instrument above it. I have added in a fuel tank pressure gauge, and assumed the instrument above the board is an air speed indicator - but I don't have a decal for one, so I've used an altimeter
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Cockpit-3.JPG)
I'm surprised there isn't a compass or a clock
Richard
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Beautiful work in detailing the cockpit Richard, this is looking super.
Des.
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Beautiful work in detailing the cockpit Richard, this is looking super.
Des.
Thank you Des
A quote from The Big Show by Pierre Clostermann
'Whoever first dared paint markings on a plane's wing was a swine!*'
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Cockade-1.JPG)
I'm trying for something a bit faded from Mediterranean sun
Richard
* Clostermann is quoting fellow pilot Bruce Cole about the death of the Luftwaffe ace Walter Nowotny
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Beautiful work in detailing the cockpit Richard, this is looking super.
Des.
Thank you Des
A quote from The Big Show by Pierre Clostermann
'Whoever first dared paint markings on a plane's wing was a swine!*'
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Cockade-1.JPG)
I'm trying for something a bit faded from Mediterranean sun
Richard
* Clostermann is quoting fellow pilot Bruce Cole about the death of the Luftwaffe ace Walter Nowotny
Richard,
A quote from a much enjoyed book of too many years back, Thanks for that and for motivating me to search my bookshelves; I found it, threadbare as it is! I'll be starting it again, not for the first time, tonight!
Cheers,
Lance
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The spine has fallen off mine, I have read it so often
Richard
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Gorgeous work on adding all of those interior dials. I don't know how you do it after assembly of the fuselage but you have certainly made it work, and then some! The faded roundel looks nice. Looking forward to the next update. Beautiful plane!
RAGIII
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<snip> I don't know how you do it after assembly of the fuselage <snip>
That made me think. I'd say it's partly because the Parasol has such an open cockpit, and partly through using different glues for different things. Some bits are liquid poly, some are UHU and some are cyanoacrylate. If I can scrape paint off, I'll use styrene glue. The clipboard and air speed indicator are done that way. The tank level gauge I drilled a hole for and pushed the end of the rod into that. The pulsometer and rev counter both have long wire tails, so they are carefully balanced in place superglued to the bottom of the fuel tank. Finally, the tank pressure gauge and the speed control sit on blobs of UHU. It's handy stuff because you don't need to make a good face to face contact, and it is more forgiving than superglue
Oh, the other thing is, planning out the assembly sequence so little bits don't stop big bits going in
I may take up making ships in bottles...
Richard
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gret work all the way around.
Ed
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Just caught up with this. You are producing an amazing model here - that would not disgrace a WNW kit - no it is even better!.
I totally agree about getting the assembly sequences right - it does help when parts already in place do not get in the way of the ones you now want to fit. That bomb rack is just something else by the way….
Stephen.
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Thank you, Stephen. You can't see the things I'm not happy with as I don't photograph them!
This is the pylon that sits on top of the wing:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/Pylon-1.JPG)
The forward wires support the wing on the ground and pass through the hole at the top. Two of the rear set of wires are for the wing warping mechanism and pass over the pulley. For a bit of sprue and some scraps of wire I think that pulley has come out well
The parts count continues to go down:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/finals-2.JPG)
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/finals-1.JPG)
The wing will probably come off again as I forgot a couple of rigging anchors on the underside
I spent hours last night fitting tiny little loops of wire through the wing, ready for rigging:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/rigging-2.JPG)
Richard
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Wow Richard, she is turning out quite beautifully.
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All this time and effort is really paying off as you are producing a first class model here. Those wire loops and the pulley on the shuts are truly impressive.
Stephen.
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Wonderfull! it is getting better and better. it's a joy to follow.
Borsos
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Has anyone mentioned what a wonderful chap that Bob von Buckles is? Ordered on Tuesday, arrived today
Just as well as 1/. I had run out with a lot of rigging left to do and 2/. some of the rigging I have done is too tight, so I need to scrap some tubes
Richard
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Phew - how do you guys manage to rig multi-plane, multi bay aeroplanes without going crosseyed or passing out from holding your breath
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/rigging-3.JPG)
These are all the static wires, I still have the wing warping ones to do. The pair on the cabane struts need to be redone as the rest of the wires have pulled the wing down a little
One of the things I like about this process is how it starts to bring strength to the aeroplane, just like the full sized ones
Richard
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Beautiful work, Richard.
The plane looks great and it is very interesting to follow your buildlog.
Manni
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Excellent!
Well done, Richard ;)
vB
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Looks outstanding Richard!
RAGIII
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That looks amazing Richard, lovely scratch building.
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Getting close now:
(http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/morane-saulnier-parasol/finals-3.JPG)
Richard
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Beautiful, Richard! Looks like a WNW kit built up. ;)
Best Regards,
Bob
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Outstanding scratch building! Looks Beautiful!!
RAGIII
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Beautiful, Richard! Looks like a WNW kit built up. ;)
Best Regards,
Bob
My sentiments exactly... :D
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Fantastic scratch build there - really fantastic!!
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You definitely have exceptional scratchbuilding skills, sir!
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Well done with the rigging Richard, this scratch build is looking brilliant.
Des.
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Well done with the rigging Richard, this scratch build is looking brilliant.
Des.
Thank you Des. In fact, the Parasol is a very easy aeroplane to rig. No poking about in bays between wings
Richard
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Whether it be a scratch build or a manufactured kit I find rigging the most enjoyable part of the build, the more rigging the better :)
Des.
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Richard,
Beautifully done and unique in the best of all scales! You can be well proud of this gem!
Cheers,
Lance
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Great work
Steve
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I agree with the others - that is a truly magnificent model which is getting better with each update.
I agree with Des too - the more rigging the better - that is what makes these aircraft so interesting!
Stephen.
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I'm calling this one finished, I'll take some pictures later
Richard
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REALLY a great build. Very nice. I am keen on seeing more pics of that beauty!
Borsos
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I need to get her make-up box out to correct all the chips, rubs and errant paint blobs to make her ready for her photo shoot
Richard
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Richard, this is a fantastic project and you have done a very good job! I really like your brass parts beside all the others. To scratch such a aircraft is really the highest art!
This reminds me, that I have not shown my MS-L yet so I made new photos and will put it to the completed models.
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks Frank. If the weather is OK tomorrow, I'll get the camera out
Richard