forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Wodehouse on February 21, 2017, 08:29:22 PM
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Hi all.
Long time lurker here, generally content to admire the excellent builds and learn from all of you.
This is a project I've been working on for a bit, so it's not a beginning-to-end build log, but rather starting from something around the middle.
So I'm trying to convert the WNW OAW D.Va into a D.V, as I was not in time to get the D.V kit. So far it's not a big problem. The bird I've chosen is the elusive 'polka dot' scheme of Jasta 4, and apparently there's some contention as to the colour scheme and whether or not it had lozenged wings or the mauve/green bit. I'm going with the suggestion of the Pheon decal sheet, (lozenge with red colouring) for no other reason than that I prefer the looks of it.
One very definite inaccuracy in my build, though, is that I'm installing a Mercedes D.IIIa in it when the original photo clearly indicates a D.III. Why? Well, I smashed the D.III half of the engine by accident and lost a few bits of it somewhere in the process, so I'm just doubling down and going full revisionist and imagining that someone upgraded the engine. I was too cheap to order the D.III engine sprue from WNW. :)
So far the toughest thing was to get the black spiral right, and I didn't, but I can rest easy knowing that they're clearly not a perfect barber pole on the real thing either, and that the painter likely didn't sit there doing conic section maths to get it exactly right.
I'm using the new printer-dotless Uschi wood grain decals (Ronny Barr pattern) over Vallejo Golden Yellow, and I decided to use Vallejo Gory Red from their Game Air line for the tail and other red bits. Weathering will all be later. I'll be using Pheon's white circles, though may just cut circles in their size and airbrush them. Still undecided. For the wings I'll be using Aviattic's lozenge sets. Otherwise, I'm using the HGW set for all sorts of photoetch, Taurus Models' timing gear, and I scratched a few things like spark plugs, internal wiring, and that metal fuel valve that everyone does.
I'm an atrocious photographer and my pics seem to enhance every flaw, but that's nothing new I think.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/albfus01.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/albfus01.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/albeng03.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/albeng03.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/albeng02.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/albeng02.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/albeng01.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/albeng01.jpg.html)
All for now.
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Top job.
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Excellent job on the ribbon and wood ! One of my favorite Albatros DV schemes ;D
RAGIII
PS: The engine looks fantastic!
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Thanks, both. :)
I love that scheme too. The dots remind me of the Japanese Mōri clan: https://westcoastmegagames.com/2015/12/03/clan-feature-5-the-mori/
Rick, how did you do the ribbon on your D.V? I had the toughest time trying to get the lines to look straight on each side without having some sort of 'S' curve show up top and bottom, and ended up making a compromise to try and get a barber pole effect all the way around. It occurred to me to try to make the lines concave-concave, right and left, or convex-convex, but trying it was harder than I imagined and I couldn't get it to look quite right.
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Thanks, both. :)
I love that scheme too. The dots remind me of the Japanese Mōri clan: https://westcoastmegagames.com/2015/12/03/clan-feature-5-the-mori/
Rick, how did you do the ribbon on your D.V? I had the toughest time trying to get the lines to look straight on each side without having some sort of 'S' curve show up top and bottom, and ended up making a compromise to try and get a barber pole effect all the way around. It occurred to me to try to make the lines concave-concave, right and left, or convex-convex, but trying it was harder than I imagined and I couldn't get it to look quite right.
I did mine by winding Tamiya tape around in the pattern I wanted then outlined each side with tape. I then removed the original center pieces of tape and sprayed the black.There were compromises here and there as you say. I am attaching the link to my Pfalz DIIIa build to show the first step. The Pfalz proved to be more difficult than the Albie as the curves are a bit more complex. From what I see of yours they are very well done.
RAGIII
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=6115.135
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That looks fantastic and I really like the engine and wood grain on the fuselage. Maybe I need new bifocals; but I don't see any flaws. I am currently working on a D.V with a varnished wood fuselage and I may have to get those wood grain decals.
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Terrific looking bird, looking forward to your progress. :D
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Thanks again all.
Rick, you did it the smart way. I should have done that. I ended up taking fine line tape and running it parallel around the negative spaces of the intended spiral, checking with a ruler to make sure the lines were even all around, then applying Silly Putty all over the thing to keep the tape in place and act as a secondary mask for the larger negative spaces.
Fred, the Uschi decals are definitely fine things. I had to search for an appropriate colour to use underneath them, and as said before I liked the Vallejo Golden Yellow best after about a dozen or so attempts with other colours. There may be something even better out there than what I found, or mixing up something more airbrush friendly than the Model Colour line. It's difficult to get a yellow that isn't too dark, as the decals have a salmon colouring that will darken anything you put them over that's lighter. Uschi's recommendation of Tamiya Flesh is good for a more orange tone, but I didn't like it for an Albatros blonde at all. Deck Tan I didn't like either.
One thing I'd advise is that if you have to do any masking like I did here with the stripe, do it before the decals go on. I already had the fuselage completely wooded over with the old decals, clear coated up, and my first attempt at the stripe ended up in disaster, with rather de-stickied masking tape ripping the stuff up easily. All in all it was still a win, because I happened to order a new set from Alex/Uschi just around the time he came out with the new printer-dotless ones. But as you can see, I now have about 25 panels still to lay down before the fuselage is all wood again. Always more work to be done!
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Thanks again all.
Rick, you did it the smart way. I should have done that. I ended up taking fine line tape and running it parallel around the negative spaces of the intended spiral, checking with a ruler to make sure the lines were even all around, then applying Silly Putty all over the thing to keep the tape in place and act as a secondary mask for the larger negative spaces.
In the end it is the result that counts and as I said your results are excellent!
RAGIII
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Beautiful engine and the completed panels of wood grain look great. The considerable work you've done on this is showing huge dividends, keep it up!
Cheers,
Lance
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What you have achieved so far is excellent, the wood grain really stands out and the engine is beautiful, looking forward to seeing more.
Des.
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Nice work, both on the spiral and wood!
Too late for now probably, but as for the (beautiful!) engine, I've messed up my fair share of parts recently and in the past, and when I put up a "looking for" post in the trade/sell section of the forum, every time someone came to my rescue. As as sideline I'm working on a WNW D.VII which does not use the standard D.III parts for example.
Looking forward to more! :)
Jeroen
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Many thanks once again for the kind compliments. :)
Jeroen, that's not a bad idea, thanks. My current thinking is just to go ahead and buy a Pfalz D.IIIa, which I would like to buy anyway, then plop the engine I've already assembled in it and just buy the Mercedes D.III sprue and the Taurus stuff for it, which isn't going to break my bank account or anything. Plus it would give me impetus to try some new techniques on the engine. I'm not really all that up on current modeling trends, am not a member of IPMS, etc, and had no idea drybrushing is now apparently considered taboo.
One thing I think I'm going to need to take your advice for is asking around for a port side weight decal though. It occurred to me that the Leergewicht, Nutzlazt, Gesamtgew bit that comes with the OAW kit and the Pheon set would be all too heavy no matter what I do. Even if they replaced the engine in one of these, I would think they'd be unlikely to change that along with it.
-Matthew
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You've been lurking too long Matthew!
Lovely ;)
Guy
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When you get the Pfalz, I suppose there isn't a need to get a separate sprue I guess, as all the D.III parts are included in that. :)
How did you do the spark plugs? They look good!
Jeroen
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Thank you, Gisbod. :D
When you get the Pfalz, I suppose there isn't a need to get a separate sprue I guess, as all the D.III parts are included in that. :)
How did you do the spark plugs? They look good!
Jeroen
Crikey, I'm glad you pointed that out. I almost ordered both those things shortly after typing up that post, but had no time.
The spark plugs (which I clearly have to straighten out on that engine) were incredibly crude, but very simple to make. It amounted to bead stringing on a piece of copper wire, then gluing & painting:
1 piece of copper wire from common electrical cable
1 little cut-off cylinder of fly fishing midge-sized tubing (base)
1 of same, micro sized (plug tip)
For the hex shaped nut, I bought a set of Meng's useful nuts and bolts plates and used the smallest sized hex nut on the plate. Drill it on the sprue, then slice off with Xacto or razor. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/230010-meng-model-sps-008-nuts-and-bolts-set-c
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Excellent work on your Albatros.
I am at this time building a DVa & using the Uschi decals as well for the wood grain, am pleased with the results.
Will be watching your build.
Larry
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Thanks Larry!
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So, I'm moving along with decaling this thing. For anyone who hasn't used them, here's some stuff to look out for when working with the Ronny Barr decals (I assume it's the same with the other sheets Uschi offers).
The decals are patterned in such a way that it's like a repetition of the same wood grain over and over. In general, it's smart to be on the lookout for things that pop out as repetition on your model, so one thing that's smart to do is to flip them upside down and not always cut consecutive panels from the same orientation. The grain will still be in the same direction, etc. The things to look out for that actually strike the eye as especially repetitive are whirls and umber-coloured dots.
Here's an example where I was being too clever by half. When I did the nail holes in my Alby, I taped the lines with fine-line tape and then tried to follow them with the rivet tool, not always with success, but the long line on the port side had a slight wobble near the cockpit that I didn't like, so I tried to bury the thing in one of the more active dark patterns of one of Uschi's decals. I was successful actually, but didn't realize that I had a repeat pattern that is impossible to unsee once you see it.
Without visual aids:
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/albfus06.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/albfus06.jpg.html)
Note my high-tech tool, lol. It's just a needle stuck into a piece of sprue that I drilled. The sprue has led a double life and upgraded its duties from paint stirrer to poking tool. Seriously one of the most useful tools I have though.
With visual aids:
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/albfusmistake.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/albfusmistake.jpg.html)
Ugh, same orientation too. Again, can't be unseen.
Another, larger shot:
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/albfus07.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/albfus07.jpg.html)
So what to do? I don't want to try to lift the decal and toss it. But I have options. The two that seem most obvious: I have a ton of Windsor & Newton oils from when I once fancied myself a painter, so I can try to match hue and value and simply subtly cover one of the dots with a reddish or ochre colour blended in, or for that matter I can add more dots and obfuscate the sameness of the pattern by making it more dotty. I'm in the middle of deciding which, but will post the result when I'm done.
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I think it looks great so far!
As far as the repeating pattern, I wouldn't have noticed immediately. But, as you say, once it it is seen it is hard to be unseen. I know it firsthand, MANY times over, & I need to be more like this emoji when talking about my own work. :-X
I think that you can make it work without removing the decal!
Steve
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I think it looks great so far!
As far as the repeating pattern, I wouldn't have noticed immediately. But, as you say, once it it is seen it is hard to be unseen. I know it firsthand, MANY times over, & I need to be more like this emoji when talking about my own work. :-X
I think that you can make it work without removing the decal!
Steve
Thanks, and I agree sometimes it's best to keep silent, but I'm always open to solutions that I might not have thought about, so I don't mind pointing out my warts.
I tried a few things this morning. Mixing colours was too time consuming and difficult. I tried putting the base yellow over one of the dots and positioning a tiny little dot of decal over it too, which didn't work out at all. So I chose the additive method and just added a couple dots, plus changed the shape a little bit of the dots around the cockpit. It turns out that raw umber is a pretty exact match once you soften it with a dry brush.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/DSCF5085.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/DSCF5085.jpg.html)
So I still see the dots, but at least now the eye doesn't say it looks exactly the same. I figure the dots in the front will be mostly obscured by wing shadow anyway, so for now I'm moving on.
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Wodehouse;
I think this looks amazing. And, I think your fix for the repetitive ply pattern worked perfectly. Although I don't think it was necessary; I've bought birch ply sheets that clearly came out of the mill consecutively and looked almost book-matched with mirrored grain. And then, as you say, there's the wings and all the other markings. Easy for me to say, I know, it would have bugged me no end as well. Looking forward to continued progress - thanks for sharing your great work!
Jimbo
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Your DV is looking amazing! The difference between an average modeler and an above average is attention to details. As an average modeler I would have left the dots as they were ::) Your solution was terrific!
RAGIII
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Thanks gentlemen. I appreciate the encouragement! Modelling is one of the few things I do that is deeply relaxing and yet makes me want to throw a boot at the wall.
So more good news: The WNW Pfalz D.IIIa and all the magnificent Taurus stuff for the Mercedes D.III are on their way, so my engine problems in this bird are solved too. I'll just swap the engines and I'm good to go.
-Matthew
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Modelling is one of the few things I do that is deeply relaxing and yet makes me want to throw a boot at the wall.
Hahaha. I can certainly relate to that!
Clever "fix" to your annoying knot. Simple yet effective.
Looking forward to your next progress report. :)
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Moving along nicely !
Ed
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Looking good! I'd never have spotted the duplicate knots, but I know what you mean. Like others wrote, we all see and know things about our models that nobody else will notice. :) Nice fix, though!
And thanks for the little tutorial on the spark plugs, I could not find the Meng sheets here, but I've orderd some resin Masterclub bolts. They do all sort of sizes, so I'll see what I can make of it.
Jeroen
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Again, many thanks for the kind words.
And thanks for the little tutorial on the spark plugs, I could not find the Meng sheets here, but I've orderd some resin Masterclub bolts. They do all sort of sizes, so I'll see what I can make of it.
Jeroen
My pleasure! The Masterclub bolts will surely be even better if you try your hand at that or a similar method.
So onward and upward. I've now wallpapered most of the room and am about to put some furniture in it - specifically all the PE bits that will grace the outside of this thing. I've done the base brown of the cockpit coaming with burnt umber oil. Highlights are next. Then it's a lacquer gloss coat and hopefully decals and I'm moving on to the wings.
Here's where she stands right now.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/albfus19.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/albfus19.jpg.html)
A more frontal shot. Starboard shots will ensue when that side is wallpapered too, but for now I'm still sticking with port side.
Here I attempted verdigris on the gas tank; not sure I'll leave it but I like it so far. It's significantly lighter than the picture shows. This was done with a mix of thalo green and flake white oils. Watching Bo's astonishing Albatros build thread has made me absolutely nutty about using blue-green with metals for various weathering - heat wear, verdigris, chromatic variation in oil stains, etc - and thalo green is just wonderful stuff for all sorts of hues in this range.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/albfus18.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/albfus18.jpg.html)
Regards,
Matthew
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Your Albatros really looks great to me! Love the outcome of the wood decals and of course still love the ribbon!
RAGIII
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Cannot see it in person, but looks really good from where I sit. Looking forward to your progress.
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Simply wonderful piece of modelling - especially the wood grain and spiral, even with the repetitive knots! This is a wonderful thread to follow - so many good ideas.
Stephen.
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Thanks so very much all. The knot solution from the previous page is one I have to touch up. All that handling of the model doing decals has made the oil paint dots fade to little shadows.
More to come soon. I'm a little frightened of the PE stuff I have to do here - how much glue to apply, being careful about scratching through some of the decal and paint layers I've put down in order to get back to a plastic gluing surface, bending PE over compound curves, etc. I'm just not that experienced with the stuff. But we'll soldier on through it and hopefully come out well. Any tips would be most appreciated.
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Extraordinary work thus far, Matthew! Your ribbon and application of the Uschi decals are gorgeous.
Cheers,
Bud
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Oh Matthew,
beautiful work. the engine is a stunner and the wood looks great. Top build.
Manni
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I very much appreciate the positive waves. Thanks!
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/waves.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/waves.jpg.html)
Just in case anyone decides to try out my previously stated love of thalo green on the previous page and buy a tube, I need to make a correction. Don't want to mislead anyone here and have you waste money on my recommendation. The full name is actually Thalo green (blue shade) that I used, from a 20-year-old tube of Grumbacher Pre-tested I had lying around. I think straight phthalo/thalo green is slightly different.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/thalo%20green%20blue%20shade.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/thalo%20green%20blue%20shade.jpg.html)
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The most recent photo (28 Feb) showing the gas tank and engine compartment really capture the quality of your work thus far. I like the weathering effect you've created with the Thalo Green additions and the detail work is superb. Lovely Model so far, and a joy to follow along......
Cheers,
Lance
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Very kind, Lance. Thank you.
I'm going to have to take a little break on this project due to unfortunate circumstances. I want to do one big clear lacquer gloss coat party all at once, including the wings before decals on those, but I'd like to attach all the PE to the outside of the fuselage first.
There are lots of things that scare me. Among them: Bears, bicycle crashes, vampires, people pointing real guns at me even in jest, senility, house fires, Beethoven's Hammerklavier sonata, and attaching photoetch bits to the outside of an Albatros that I've just papered up...
So I ordered a "pick up pencil" from RB Productions to help with this last bit and I'm going to have to wait for it to arrive. In the meanwhile I've just received the Pfalz D.IIIa, so I can start to make the D.III engine for this plane, but I also want to wait before doing anything big to that for the Taurus bits for it to arrive. So for now it seems all I can really do is make a hundred or so turnbuckle attachments with the Gaspatch stuff and wire. Fun.
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Such a stunning model - love your work.
I did verdigris on one of my ship models - it was on real copper tiles and I used my own pee to do it much to the disbelief of everyone - but it worked like a charm. Has to be on copper though. Not recommended for plastic.
Question though - what is a "pick up pencil"? Just got a package from RB and it included a white pencil - not ordered - and I have no idea what it is for? Is it a pick up pencil???
Cheers
Alistair
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Hi Alistair. Thanks much! The urine solution is funny. We've got to accomplish our goals somehow!
Yes, it sounds like you got a pick up pencil. I'm not sure how well it does what it says it does, but I'm hoping I haven't been deceived by the sales pitch.
If it looks like this...
http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_122&products_id=434
...then that's what I think you've got.
Best,
Matthew
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Coming along beautifully, and as for Vampires, just wear a lot of garlic... ;)
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"I'm not sure how well it does what it says it does"
I've had one of these for some time and it's a simple but great idea. The trick is to sharpen it a bit before use to make it tacky, it works like a charm on tiny Photo Etch etc. I think an ordinary "Grease Pencil" (Canada) or "China Marker" might work just as well but for the price this is a good little modelling tool.
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks Matthew
Looks like I got myself a "pick up pencil"! Wonder if it works in my the local pub?...But seriously very kind of RB to include it in my order unasked for and I'll certainly be trying it out on PE.
Will follow with interest your stunning Albatross from here on.
Cheers
Alistair
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This is one spectacular Albie build. I am watching the progress with a great interest.
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Coming along beautifully, and as for Vampires, just wear a lot of garlic... ;)
See, then I scare everything away. :)
I've had one of these for some time and it's a simple but great idea. The trick is to sharpen it a bit before use to make it tacky, it works like a charm on tiny Photo Etch etc. I think an ordinary "Grease Pencil" (Canada) or "China Marker" might work just as well but for the price this is a good little modelling tool.
This just arrived yesterday, but this is good to know. I saw someone on Youtube using cocktail sticks and Mr Masking Sol Neo, and that looked like another option.
Wonder if it works in my the local pub?
Straightman: "Why would you want to make models in a pub? It's so dark!"
This is one spectacular Albie build. I am watching the progress with a great interest.
Many thanks. I've been ogling your excellent work with great interest for years.
______________________________________
So: Onward and upward. The Taurus stuff for the D.III arrived earlier than the pick-up pencil or the Aviattic decals, and that dictated my next steps. This isn't much of a progress report though. The fact is, the Taurus parts are so fiddly and delicate that it took me 3 days just to get it to a more or less acceptable level of built, so I'm just past the point of doing the Mr. Surfacer 1500 black primer coat and not much more.
Current table mess. Where's Wally?
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/DSCF5107.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/DSCF5107.jpg.html)
I have done preliminary painting on the rocker boxes. Bertl's pictures in the Engines subforum here show that the rocker boxes have two different metals. One is a pale brass colour on the bottom and the other a more aluminium sort of affair up top. All the brass paints in my collection tend to be darkish and vivid, and are some of my least favourite paints to work with. The only thing that came close to Bertl's pics in my paint menagerie was AK's Duraluminium, which has problems of its own - namely that it instantly separates within even 20 seconds of mixing the stuff, with all the more goldenish hue going down to the bottom of the bottle straight away.
Nevertheless, I used it as a base tone for the rocker boxes. It ended up looking not as yellow as I would have wished, so instead of using aluminium as the top colour of the boxes I used Model Master chrome, hoping it would contrast better. Nothing doing. You could see a difference, but it wasn't stark enough, so I broke out Vallejo's pre-mixed Game Color umber wash and went to work trying to yellow the duraluminium up more. Much better.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/rocker1.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/rocker1.jpg.html)
EDIT: And no, that rocker box piece isn't glued on yet, which is why it looks to be floating in the back.
More to follow.
Best,
Matthew
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Nice work! I'll let you finish your engine first so I can copy your techniques for mine... ;)
BTW I recieved the resin bolts with nuts for my spark plugs last week, and they are... tiny! Will see what I can do with those. Thanks again for the idea :)
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Thanks Jeroen!
Here's the basic method for these very basic spark plugs.
1. Cut several small lengths of midge tubing for the base. I used the 0.5 mm marker on the RB Productions cutting template. They won't turn out consistently the same even using that, or at least I can't get them to, so I cut about 2 to 3 times more than I need, then start to isolate the ones that are closest to each other in size and evenness (red circle in photo). The plug base is very squat though, so I tend to pick the tiniest ones first.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/DSCF5111.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/DSCF5111.jpg.html)
2. Place the midge lengths onto copper wiring (yellow circle in photo). Make a little J-shaped bend at the bottom of the wiring so the tubing won't slide off it when you pick one up. Try to make several more spark plugs than you need - again so you can pick and choose those that turn out best and most similar to each other when you end up picking them for the engine. Drill holes in hex nuts if they aren't already pre-holed (red circle). The smallest hexes on my Meng template are 1.3 mm. Probably a tad smaller is better.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/DSCF5112.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/DSCF5112.jpg.html)
3. Load the hexes onto the copper wire (yellow circle), then cut the micro tubing (red circle) for the white tip of the plug. Here I use the 1 mm setting on the RB template, but they always end up a bit larger, which is fine, because I can bury as much of this bit in the hex hole as I need to.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/DSCF5114.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/DSCF5114.jpg.html)
4. [Unpictured because undone as of yet]. Load microtubing on wire, then glue all three bits together along straightest section of wire possible, taking care to keep things aligned and not cock-eyed. Airbrush brass when you airbrush the rest of the brass bits of the engine, then hand paint tips white. The bit of wire coming out of the rear of the plugs can then be cut and used as a plug to push into pre-drilled holes in the cylinders when glued into place.
_______________________________________
Engine itself is moving along slowly. It's at the pre-weathered stages right now and I still have to paint the brass stuff and make the plug lead tubes and paint up the magnetos, etc. Here are some photos of a dry fit, though the second one is subject to my camera's penchant for going yellow unexpectedly. I only included it because it shows the rocker arms better than any of the other pics I took.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/Engine1%20005res.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/Engine1%20005res.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee347/charliebucket88/Engine1%20004res.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/charliebucket88/media/Engine1%20004res.jpg.html)
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Can't get why I overlooked this one till now. What a great representation of a Jasta 4 plane (one of my all time favoured). Brilliant use of the Uschi decals and great overall appearance. Very nice!
Borsos
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Thanks, Borsos. :)
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Amazing work, and thanks for the spark plug tutorial!
Cheers, Tom
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Amazing work, and thanks for the spark plug tutorial!
Cheers, Tom
Agree wholeheartedly
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Really well done plugs and wiring! Your DV is really going to be spectacular! I am eagerly awaiting more!
RAGIII
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Heartfelt thanks for the encouragement!
I've been trying to wait until the engine is assembled before I post the next batch of photos. I've had some unexpected snags with this engine - having to redo things due to bad procedure planning and decision making. I'll explain when I post next. :)
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Amazing work, and thanks for the spark plug tutorial!
Cheers, Tom
Agree wholeheartedly
+1
Thanks again!