forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: aliluke on November 06, 2016, 07:16:44 PM
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Hi
Off I go with the Snipe. I'm not sure why I picked this model or even which version I'll go for - I think "E" with the chocolate brown wings. I started with the pilot's seat for getting underway and this post is to remind me to keep going! Certainly a challenge and a steep learning curve. Here is the seat that my pilot's bum will rest upon.
Honestly I'm learning my way to the Albatross DVa. The Snipe is part of the journey.
Best regards
Alistair
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Nice start, looking forward to your progress. Best of luck.
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Very nice work on the openings of the whicker seat.
Manni
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Nice start, Alistair! I think you'll like this kit a lot :)
Cheers,
Gary
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Alistair,
Wow if the wicker seat is any indication of what's to come your Snipe will be absolutely stunning. Fantastic first progress my friend. Keep up the high standards.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks all
I can tell I'm really going to enjoy this kit. Will make the next update more substantial than the first!
Best regards
Alistair
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You have made a great start with this kit Alistair, I'm really looking forward to seeing what you do next.
Des.
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Really nice work on the seat! I commented elsewhere that I think you have chosen wisely as to a first WNW build. The Snipe is still perhaps the best engineered of all WNW releases. ( At least those I have built) 8)
RAGIII
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Nice start!!
Steve
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Hi
Have made the instrument panel. Just amazed by the detail in this kit and really nice to have little models like this amongst a bigger model. Truly challenging - the decals were very scary to do and a few heart stopping moments - but great fun. Also my first go at turning plastic into wood - much to learn...
Very hard to photograph but in macro you can read "Important" on the model brass badge - totally illegible to the naked eye - that is incredible detail for a decal. A useful photo though as it shows me a few touch ups needed. Also need the final overspray.
I'm wondering about glazing the instruments with Micro Glaze but worry that it'll ruin the decals - any thoughts?
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/DSC00251_zpsczzgardv.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/DSC00251_zpsczzgardv.jpg.html)
Best regards
Alistair
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Beautiful dashboard. Great work.
I glaze the Instruments with Micro Kristal Klear from Microscale or (prefered) with Bondic glue, a thick transparent glue, that cures instantly, when exposed to the light of a UV-Lamp.
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Thanks Manni
It is Micro Kristal Klear that I have - I think I'll give it a go. Funny looking at the photo again...the switches look like sh*t but actually they are the best bit of the dash - cameras...
Best regards,
Alistair
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Alistair,
I glaze my instrument faces with Future floor polish, never had a problem and it replicates the glass lens beautifully. I also use it to attach instrument bezels when applied, two steps in one.
Cheers,
Lance
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Looks good Alistair,
I tend to use clear epoxy - certainly looks like glass (if a tad bulbous). Just another option.
Guy
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Looks very nice! I also use Future floor wax for the glass look but all of the methods including the one you mention work.
RAGIII
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Alistair,
Outstanding paintwork my friend. Inspiring works come from your most talented bench. Keep up the Excellence.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks all
After spraying the whole panel with a matte coat I have used the Kristal Klear with a good result. I may add another layer of Kristal Klear to get a bit more build up on the glass. I have updated the photo in the original post but still having trouble getting my camera settings to show the real colours - never mind.
I have figured out what Future is but can't find how to get it in NZ - anyone know?
Best regards
Alistair
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Alistair,
Future has changed names many times over the years I've been using it (must be at least 25!) and it has had different labels in different countries. Look for "Pledge with Future" or "Future Shine" on the label. It is labelled as "an acrylic floor finish for no wax or regular floors". It's made by the SC Johnson Company and I believe most versions contain the word "Pledge" these days. I've been using a 795ml bottle for approximately 5 years and it's still 2/3 full, so the price can't be beat!
Good luck, hope you can find it.
Cheers,
Lance
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This is a great start, Alistair. some very neat and precise modelling on the seat and instrument panel! Enjoy, these kits are a pleasure... Regards, Marc
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http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
This article gives some New Zealand information, but I have to say I've had a quick look in Bunnings and the Warehouse for products under the names they give, but with no success.
Cheers!
Michael
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Hi
Finally finished the very intense cockpit. As many others have noted it is very crowded. The kit does fit together perfectly but some moments of patience and a few deep breathes are needed to get it together. It is very difficult to photograph - you can't see the control cables but they are all there. No way I'm going to try to run them through to the surfaces they work - beyond my skills and hats off to those that do. Very impressed by Mr Model Dark Iron paint which I used on the machine guns. It really does look like metal - a great product. Thanks to all who posted their work on the same here - I poured over those images.
Onward
Alistair
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/cockpit%2001_zps7xclwxpw.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/cockpit%2001_zps7xclwxpw.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/cockpit%2002_zpsy5gaycwx.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/cockpit%2002_zpsy5gaycwx.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/cockpit%2003_zpswc4ydyym.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/cockpit%2003_zpswc4ydyym.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/cockpit%2004_zpsahncmlzb.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/cockpit%2004_zpsahncmlzb.jpg.html)
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Very,very good cockpit. The wood tone is so warm and the details look very sharp. I like it.Great!
bye,Manni
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That is a work of art. Love it.
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Thanks for your feedback. I still feel like a newbie at this.
One thing I wanted to say about the kit is that is over connected in some instances - this is advice for those following. For instance the machine guns are tabbed into the interconnecting piece - the feed chute - and in turn all are tabbed into the machine gun frame. That is 6 interconnecting tabs joining four pieces. My first go at that resulted in it all going together OK but slightly misaligned - a tiny angle from left to right. Couldn't stand that so I pulled it all apart - very, very gently - and removed the tabs that joined the guns to the chute. Made it a hell of lot easier to get everything properly aligned and there is no way you can tell that the guns and the feed chute are not tabbed together. Same could be said for the rudder bar - too many tabs and sometimes better off without them. Just a thought.
Cheers
Alistair
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A very clean, crisp, well rigged interior! The wood color is great! I think I tried running the rigging lines all of the way through on my build. IIRC It didn't quite work out as planned :-\ I have the late model in my stash and am sure I will do as you when I get to the control wire rigging.
RAGIII
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Very nice work on that office space. Looking forward to your next update.
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Outstanding job on the cockpit module, Alistair, the closer I look at the photos the more detail and contrast I see. I'm particularly impressed by the "plumbing" which stands out so well on the lower left wall in the first two photos, marvellous work.
Is that Mr. Metal Colour Dark Iron (#214) you used on the guns? I've never thought of using it for armament but it sure looks perfect here.
I've been thinking a second Snipe would be a great project, seeing yours has really got me thinking more! Keep up your exceptional work. 8)
Cheers,
Lance
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That is truly first class modelling. The wood tones look just like real wood and the metallic finish of the guns is excellent too. The seat and other details are most realistic - in all an extremely feel put together module. Looking forward to more.
Stephen.
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Those guns (and the rest, obviously) look very realistic, but my eye keeps being drawn to the seat... :)
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Thanks for your positive feedback - I feel like I've joined the group now.
Lance - yes it is Mr Metal Dark Iron. I think I got the idea from Des? It buffs up really well with a cotton tip and certainly looks the part to my eye.
Cheers
Alistair
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very nice Alistair
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Very nice - the finish on those guns is very realistic :)
I agree 100% and those lap belts look equally realistic!
Cheers,
Bud
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I keep studying the details on this one over & over. Very nice!
Steve
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Great work Alistair! The WnW Snipe is a fantastic model.
Cheers,
Gary
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Thanks all
Haven't had much time at the model bench lately...must be Christmas. Gave it a spurt today and now all ready to close the fuselage - it all seems a bit sudden.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/close%20up%203_zpsqketkj7i.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/close%20up%203_zpsqketkj7i.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/close%20up%201_zps501vohtg.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/close%20up%201_zps501vohtg.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/close%20up%202_zpsg66kwv7c.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/close%20up%202_zpsg66kwv7c.jpg.html)
Have a good one!
Alistair
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Beautiful work all around! You are tempting me greatly to pull my Late Snipe out of the pile!
RAGIII
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Thanks
Bad day at the work bench today. Pre-painted the cowling over the cockpit and all went well. While waiting for full curing decided to take on the engine. Do not cut the push rod part off the sprue with hedge trimmers!!! I might have mixed up my summer chores...broke four push rods :-[ :-[. Successfully glued 3 back together and then pinged the 4th half of one into the ether off the end of my tweezers :'(. Never to be seen again - waste a summers afternoon looking for half of a 1:32 push rod? Yes I did. The part is stuffed so when Weta reopens I'll have to buy a new engine - fortunately only $14 and being just across town not a big deal but that won't be for weeks as the holidays intervene.
So - my question - what do you use to cut parts like the push rods off the sprue? I have basic side cutters but for these wee pieces they seem like, well, hedge trimmers.
Cheers
Alistair
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Alistair, I use a fine razor saw for cutting delicate parts off the sprue. You can get them from Micro Mark and other online hobby shops.
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I find that on WNW kits at least, even the most delicate parts have been very thoughtlfully designed to be snipped apart with decent side cutters. (Mine are made by Tamiya and are very nice indeed.) Cut very close to the part where the sprue nub is at its smallest section; this will prevent putting additional strain on the part which will happen if you cut the sprue where it is relatively thicker.
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On very delicate parts, I use a pin vise to drill a small hole in each sprue attachment point. Then when I cut the part off with sprue cutters, the stress is at the hole and the part is usually not harmed.
The other day, I used this technique on a very delicate 1/72 Eduard Nieuport 17 engine piece and had no problems!
HTH,
Rob
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Great advice thanks,
I think cutting too far away from the part was the main issue - as Bo says it adds to the stress on the bit being cut off. I'll see how I go.
Cheers
Alistair
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Closed her up - slightly concerning moment but all went to WNW plans! The cowl over the cockpit is just loose fitted and needs a little push here and there to get into shape. But it fit like a piece of Lego. Also have to sand a little to even the rear seams but bugger all - Lego fit again. Extraordinary kit for one OOB as I intend it to be.
Since I have to get another engine I played with what I had. The cylinders are painted with Mr Metal Dark Iron and then buffed. The exhausts are painted in the same, buffed, then recoated with Mr Metal Copper, buffed and then coated with Mr Metal Iron. I just wanted to see what happened...Basically they are slightly more silvery than the cylinders but you also get this hint of copper behind. I like it but it is very subtle. Need new push rod part to finish the engine and I also intend to try to wire the spark plugs.
Changed the outer body colour from WNW recommended XF82 - Service Grey - to XF 83 - Medium Sea Grey. I like this a lot more - paler and with a hint of blue in it. XF82 is a battleship grey - nil chroma.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/sw1_zpsxkrwjfq1.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/sw1_zpsxkrwjfq1.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/sw2_zpsdsw22buk.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/sw2_zpsdsw22buk.jpg.html)
Cheers
Alistair
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Very nice progress Alistair! 8)
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Superb looking innards, Alistair!
Cheers,
Bud
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It's all looking very, very nice Alistair! The cockpit is really beautiful! I have one and I'm looking forward to starting - but two of the engine pushrods are already broken on the sprue! I have been thinking about that and how to tackle it - complicated - I think a replacement part is the best option! Regards, Marc.
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Looking good Alistair, sorry to hear about your pushrod problem. Looking forward to your progress.
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Looks good!
I use a JLC razor saw, too. If I'm very careful, even flimsy Roden struts get removed in one piece. (trying to clean the up, however....) I have also found sometimes the sequence of how to saw helps. If you saw the outer parts of, say, a D.VII wing struts first, they are very flimsy, but doing the "stiffer" inner parts and leaving the flimsy outer parts for last helps, sometimes.
The drilling method is one I'll definately try sometime soon! :)
Jeroen
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Often with delicate parts I cut off with a blade, with the part resting on a suitable block of wood to stop any pressing down or distortion of the part and sprue, before the cut takes... I try to cut in a logical sequence to minimise the stresses on the parts.
I have to say however, that even using the traditional garden shears sprue cutters, WNW parts have seldom broken on me.. It is a different story with other brands though!
Great work on the "office" Alistair!
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Hi Alister,
Looks like a very clean work out what you show here.
Very beautiful!
Looking Forward what you will show us next.
regards
Jörg
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Beautiful work! I like your choice of grey for the Battleship grey cowl potion of the fuselage.
RAGIII
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Thanks all
I have started the exterior colour - chocolate brown - this is for paint scheme "E".
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/Wingnut%20Wings%20-%201_32%20Sopwith%20Snipe%20Late_zpscoudwizp.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/Wingnut%20Wings%20-%201_32%20Sopwith%20Snipe%20Late_zpscoudwizp.jpg.html)
I followed Lance's technique that he used on his Snipe. Sprayed with chocolate and then masked the high points on the frame and then washed the low points. After I did this I over sprayed with another coat of chocolate. The effect is very subtle and hard to photo but it looks miles better than a uniform coat of brown. You get an impression of the underlying structure. I'm happy with the result and after another clear coat I can tackle the wings.
I was a bit dubious about the chocolate colour wondering if it'd look terrible but it is a really nice colour.
Cheers
Alistair
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/DSC00373_zpsrzlixssc.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/DSC00373_zpsrzlixssc.jpg.html)
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Great progress and a nice choice of scheme.
Manni
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The color variations are indeed subtle, but do show up in photos. Looks convincing to me. The "wood" really looks like wood when viewed with the other parts.
Steve
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Hi
Added transfers to the hull...decals to the fuselage. My chosen colour scheme demanded some very difficult ones on the engine cowl. But the decals that WNW provide are incredibly good and they worked out OK after a few words otherwise. As for my modelling....too many glitches and a lack of understanding of the fragility of plastic kits but I'm learning and the advice here is great. It needs a coat of matte but I'd really like to know how you can tone down the transfers? That is muddy them a little - they are too vibrant. Summer holidays tomorrow - yay - so any advice will be welcomed in a couple of weeks time. And yes it does need an engine.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/canopy_zpsylvqe1dm.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/canopy_zpsylvqe1dm.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/canopy%202_zpsbkk4tsio.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/canopy%202_zpsbkk4tsio.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/canopy%203_zpsjp85txk1.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/canopy%203_zpsjp85txk1.jpg.html)
Cheers
Alistair
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That's quick and good advice - all locked up in the studio now but I will trial when I get back from 2 weeks in Abel Tasman NP.
Thank you Red Baron
Alistair
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Very smart looking work Alistair!
Your decal application is excellent, as is your paint.
Looking forward to more.
cheers :)
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Very beautiful! This is one of the "Bickendorf"-schemes, isn't it? I work on the site of this former airport and find it nice that WnW provide decals for planes from there.
Richard
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Very, very good done. RB said already every thing about tonigng down the decals.
Beatiful place were you spend your holidays. I'm dreaming.....
Manni from Ice cold germany
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Excellent decalling, especially on the cowl..
For what it is worth, my method of working over decals is first of all to cov er with a couple of coats of Klear/Future.. This can be sprayed or brushed, and not only seals the decals but also provides a barrier between the decal and further application.
Then I spray with satin varnish from a rattle can. This takes away some of the gloss, but isn't too flat. However there is then a very slight "bite" to the surface. I then dry brush pigment powders or powdered pastels for general staining or exhaust blackening, rib highlighting etc and the pigments then take hold on the surface.
Occasionally I will dry brush over the decal, the same colour that is underneath to show wear and tear. Literally tear, as I have had to hide damage to torn decals before!
Finally and only if necessary, a further coat of Klear or Satin varnish to finish and seal the weathering..
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Looks outstanding with the decals. I like the advice Justin has given about toning down the white. I may give it a try myself...soon.
RAGIII
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Really coming together nicely Alistair, that scheme and the Chocolate Brown are a great eye catcher. Justin's advice on a very thin mix of buff/grey lightly misted on would tone the vivid decal colours down nicely, gently does it being the key! This is going to be a really impressive model!
Cheers,
Lance
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BTW -- I think your snipe is looking great!
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Playing catch up again. Great work!!
Steve
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I've too been following along. I think you underrate yourself. You are making a very fine model. Thanks for the photos. Looking forward to more.
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Thanks all,
Summer holidays and getting that spare engine from WNW slowing me down. Anyway - engine finished with ignition wires added (from stripped electrical cable - what a wealth of fine wire!). I struggle with the photography - sorry. The engine is good enough for my plane and when you put it in the cowl and add the propeller there isn't very much to see. Definitely the advice to scissor very close to the part to prevent breaking it - in my case the push rods - was correct and I got everything off the new sprue without any breakages - still learning.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/DSC00717_zps93x9th9k.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/DSC00717_zps93x9th9k.jpg.html)
I've got an invite to the Vintage Aviators factory week after next from a friendly contact who works there as a carpenter. I'm very lucky by location - here in Wellington - and by contacts. Looking forward to seeing the Snipe at full size plus some other planes.
Best regards
Alistair
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Great work on the engine Alistair!
I'm only disappointed you'll never be able to tell us what you see at the factory. How I'd love to have an hour in there.
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Hi
My airbrush is broken so I'm stalled while waiting for a replacement part.
I've visited the factory and can't say much - that is the way it is. But I did get into a replica Snipe cockpit which was amazing and bloody difficult - I'm very tall and these were not designed for my frame...The visit was a dizzy feast of everything - planes, woodwork, engines, machine guns, drawings, photos and on and on. Wingnut Wings is in the same building. Needless to say I didn't even get close to their engine room!
Cheers
A
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The engine looks great and it sounds as though your weekend was Awesome!
RAGIII
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Hi
I've been away for a while but spending a very little bit of modelling time utterly destroying the wings on my Sopwith. All I want to post here is that Dave Johnson from Wingnut - without questioning my idiocy which I admitted - is sending me new wing sprues next week. It took a while for me to even think of asking and a lot less time for Dave to answer by saying "no problem". That is really incredible service! It does help that WNW is not very far away from me but hats off to them and thanks Dave.
Next pictures will be of a completed plane - none of you need progress shots of such a brilliant model from an idiot like me!
Cheers
Alistair
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Hi
I've been away for a while but spending a very little bit of modelling time utterly destroying the wings on my Sopwith. All I want to post here is that Dave Johnson from Wingnut - without questioning my idiocy which I admitted - is sending me new wing sprues next week. It took a while for me to even think of asking and a lot less time for Dave to answer by saying "no problem". That is really incredible service! It does help that WNW is not very far away from me but hats off to them and thanks Dave.
Next pictures will be of a completed plane - none of you need progress shots of such a brilliant model from an idiot like me!
Cheers
Alistair
We all have our times when things go completely wrong! One of my Triplane builds is destined for the Hall of shame because I was careless and dropped a FULL coffee Mug on the kit breaking a wing tie and totally ruining the entire rare decal set for von Richthofens triplanes, and 2 Pfalz DIIIa sheets that were sitting in the box. It is your choice but I for one would welcome more in progress shots...from another Modeler who makes Human mistakes :D
RAGIII
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Hi
Sopwith Snipe is finished.
A legion of mistakes which would confine it to the Hall of Shame for many here but I'll put it in my Hall of Fame as:
- It is the first WW1 kit I've done.
- It is the first biplane I've done.
- I'll learn from my mistakes - aligning decals between wing and aileron, getting upper wing to fit properly on struts, not snapping off tail plane when installing upper wing (put the tail plane on afterwards - duh), not throwing gobs of glue at things when they refuse to stick, not cleaning up those gobs of glue and scratching paint off in the process - the list goes on and on :-[.
- It is very good looking plane and it came out OKish in the end. I like this colour scheme.
- It is finished and that looked very unlikely at some points...when you break your second attempt at the upper wing in half for example >:(.
Yep a handy large hammer now and again would have been welcomed but I took a few deep breaths walked away and then just rolled on for better or worse.
And it is already gathering dust - photos not great but here:
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/Snipe%202_zpsl8t51cfd.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/Snipe%202_zpsl8t51cfd.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/Snipe%206_zpsqvxgezph.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/Snipe%206_zpsqvxgezph.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/Snipe%209_zpsaxgnfbdm.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/Snipe%209_zpsaxgnfbdm.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/Snipe%203_zps14sfhult.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/Snipe%203_zps14sfhult.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/Snipe%207_zpsuxdi3eqi.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/Snipe%207_zpsuxdi3eqi.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/Snipe%204_zps0za5cgcq.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/Snipe%204_zps0za5cgcq.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/Snipe%205_zpscjdgxj5q.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/Snipe%205_zpscjdgxj5q.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/Snipe%208_zpsgdogbt8p.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/Snipe%208_zpsgdogbt8p.jpg.html)
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii556/aliluke/Snipe%201_zpsqqo9nk4q.jpg) (http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/aliluke/media/Snipe%201_zpsqqo9nk4q.jpg.html)
On with the next one!
Cheers
Alistair
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Very nice finish Alistair, that second photo really shows the outstanding detail work you did and I too like that rich "chocolate" tone a lot! A number of "firsts", a few mistakes, most important some lessons learned and a place in the Hall of Fame all add up to a great model and a good experience. It took me many years to accept that the "perfect" model is an illusion, the name of the game is getting as close as you can to that goal without losing sight of the fun aspect, and going back through your Build Log here I believe you met those requirements "in spades"!
I look forward to your next project.
Cheers,
Lance
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Great looking model Alistair!
Excellent instrument panel, very smooth paint job and excellent rigging.
I do like your representation of replacement ailerons. Really adds character.
Very clever idea!
And please bring on the next one. :)
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Agree with all of the above, congratulations.
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Very nicely done. I like it a lot.
Borsos
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Wow, Alistair! Your Snipe looks very good.
I like it and agree to all the comments above.
Chapeau,
Manni
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It may be your first, but I can guarantee it won't be your last.
Very well done, Alistair ;)
vB
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Hey thanks all,
It is great to be here and receive such a kind reception for my first bi-plane attempt. I still struggle with plastic kits per see - wood is so much more forgiving and easier to repair when you stuff it up. I've also just realised that I exposed much more wood finish on the propeller hub than is correct. Purists will slam me but I don't really care and I'm certainly not going to try to fix this brain fade.
Yep Bob it sure isn't the last - looking hard at what's next. All of the other WNW kits I have stashed are German - so I can guarantee it won't be British. Also it won't be long off as I already want to get back into it. The building is everything - the outcome is nice to look at for just a few days...
Cheers
Alistair
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Hi Alistair,
I only joined this great forum today, and like you have never attempted a biplane before. I am usually a fast jet guy, but a recent experience at Stow Maries Great War Aerodrome in Essex with the TVAL Snipe in the scheme that you have portrayed, convinced me to buy the Wingnut Wings kit.
Your build thread has been truly inspirational to me and has given me hints, tips and the confidence to have a go at mine (not sure when, though!!)
I love your finished model and would be very happy to display that on my shelf! ;)
I hope you don't mind, but here is a picture that I took at dusk of the TVAL Snipe at Stow Maries.
(http://village.photos/images/user/2a3ad818-75e7-43d8-af50-fe865b77c716/resized_da25cdee-afab-4188-83cf-408a24f54fae.jpg)
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Wow! Wow! That is really cool. Thanks!!
I went for the colour scheme on the basis of the cowl stripes - a shameful admission - I just liked them and knew they would challenge me too. At the end the whole Birkendorf colour scheme was a really good choice for me - like the plane = like the model.
I have a friend at TVAL who has built 5 Snipes and is working on the next 2 along with a Fokker DVII - this Snipe is probably one of those he worked on. I got myself into a cockpit of one of the latest a few months back.
I'm intrigued that fixed rigging appears black but the control rigging is silver. Plus the little jointers between the fixed rigging overlaps. All would be a simple add to my "finished" model.
I'll have to take a photo at that angle to compare - my propeller paint fail is definitely evident...the rest is going to be truly scary - I may not post it.
Have a go - these are magnificent WW1 machines and so much more - what's the right phrase?...authentic to pure bravery than their later evolution. Some seem completely mad but they existed just a dozen years after the first powered flight. Keep the love of the machine in your eye when you build.
Cheers
A
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A really outstanding job on the Snipe! Your painting and rigging are excellent. As atestament to how much I like your build I thought that the TVAL Photo was another shot of your build until I read the comments!
RAGIII
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Wow! Wow! That is really cool. Thanks!!
I went for the colour scheme on the basis of the cowl stripes - a shameful admission - I just liked them and knew they would challenge me too. At the end the whole Birkendorf colour scheme was a really good choice for me - like the plane = like the model.
I have a friend at TVAL who has built 5 Snipes and is working on the next 2 along with a Fokker DVII - this Snipe is probably one of those he worked on. I got myself into a cockpit of one of the latest a few months back.
I'm intrigued that fixed rigging appears black but the control rigging is silver. Plus the little jointers between the fixed rigging overlaps. All would be a simple add to my "finished" model.
I'll have to take a photo at that angle to compare - my propeller paint fail is definitely evident...the rest is going to be truly scary - I may not post it.
Have a go - these are magnificent WW1 machines and so much more - what's the right phrase?...authentic to pure bravery than their later evolution. Some seem completely mad but they existed just a dozen years after the first powered flight. Keep the love of the machine in your eye when you build.
Cheers
A
Hi Alistair,
Your friend has a truly incredible job!
I have just revisited my images from the Stow Maries, and have found these of the Snipe. They seem to confirm your observation about the rigging.
I wouldn't have noticed your propeller paint "fail" had you not mentioned it.
I'm returning to Stow Maries this weekend, and hope to get close to the Snipe. Is there anything that you would like a close-up shot of?
(http://village.photos/images/user/2a3ad818-75e7-43d8-af50-fe865b77c716/resized_cad851bc-f065-43f3-a29f-1bd07bd2f487.jpg)
(http://village.photos/images/user/2a3ad818-75e7-43d8-af50-fe865b77c716/resized_bce321f7-9597-43de-a687-09e1717d8a02.jpg)
(http://village.photos/images/user/2a3ad818-75e7-43d8-af50-fe865b77c716/resized_d8927ac9-e8d2-429d-a49d-c42ab5bf2431.jpg)
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Looking good Alistair, I for one will not be taking any measurements to find fault on this beauty. Love what you have done.