forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: stefanbuss on June 19, 2014, 01:20:30 AM
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Friends,
while rigging my Albatros' undercarriage i ran into problems of an unexpected kind. On earlier builds I used the brass-tubing-method that Des described so well on his homepage. The lower ends of the undercarriage's rigging don't have any turnbuckles that should be replicated, just spliced ends covered by leather. I thought that using brass tubes wouldn't be appropriate, instead I want to replicate the splices using knots and drops of white glue to add some volume afterwards.
The problem: I am failing utterly at trying to use "the right knot". I have already destroyed the rigging four times (!).
Please, can someone explain a proper knot to use (and how to use it)?
Stefan
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Stefan
Heres how I do that effect.
I pre-prepare the eye and rigging by looping a short length through an eyelet I have in a clamp (clip) then take the end, fold it back and using a second clamp trap the loose end and the rigging proper together. I twist these together then apply thin Cyano and leave for a little while to set off.
Once it has I unclamp and let the rigging straighten before trimming the excess off with a sharp blade. Once done I reapply a little Cyano and set aside to do the next one.
Hope this helps and offers food for thought.
Keith
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Keith,
I had thought about gluing but did not trust my skills (always afraid of gluing the tweezers to the eyelet), this is why I came up with knotting.
Thank you for the reply, nonetheless.
Stefan
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try polyamide tubing instead of the brass -- looks like leather wrap even when left unpainted.
Edit: the stuff is called polyimide (!) Polyamide is a different material.
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Whenever I need to use a knot when using monofilament for rigging, I always use a clinch knot, widely employed for tying bass lures directly to monofilament line.
(http://i331.photobucket.com/albums/l474/ChrisJohnson56/Misc/clinch-knot_zps30b13199.jpg)
It's simple and effective.
Cheers,
Chris
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Chris,
I have used "your" knot quite often, as it works exceedingly well - if you are able to tug on the long run to tighten the knot. Unfortunately this is not the case here, as the long run is already fixed to the fuselage's interior.
But that is no longer a problem. I had a discussion with the wife (who is a tailor), and she came up with a proposal, that didn't work out as both of us expected (due to my clumsiness), but will suffice this time.
Thank you all for your responses.
Stefan
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Bo, your suggestion about using polyamide tubing intrigued me to the point that I ordered some from A****n, but since I've never used it
before, I "estimated" the size I needed to use with .005" (.12mm) mono. and ordered: 29 AWG, 0.0113" ID, 0.0158" OD, 0.00225" Wall thickness.
Is this sufficient ID, or what should I use?
Will
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Will, you need AWG 30-E.
ID of 0,254mm and 0,025mm Wall thickness.
Use fishing-line 0,08 mm for the control cables and 0,10 or max. 0,12mm for Rigging.
Servus
Bertl
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Will, I got the AWG 29 as I am intending to use it with Steve's wonder rigging (which is .14mm). I don't think I could coax it thru 30-E, it barely fits in 29. And the AW-30 only seems to be available in packs of 50, which is rather spendy (~$300)
When it arrives behold the packaging, I've never had something so small come in such a large container...
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This is what AWG 29 polyamide looks like on .14mm graphite line (top) and .12mm maximal (bottom)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file_zps5692fdba.jpg)
Bertl has pix on LSM of what he uses, of course it looks better but the above even is pretty microscopic.
OD of AWG 29 is .4mm (.0158")
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I used 28 AWG on my Pfalz DIIIa to close off (swage) the rigging ;)
(http://www.bobsbuckles.co.uk/images/21.jpg)
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Bo, you're right about the packaging, holy smokes! Anyway, I couldn't get .12mm mono worked twice through the AWG 29, so I will try AWG 28 next. :-[