forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Des on May 18, 2014, 09:25:22 AM
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I have been doing some work on the Beardmore engine from my WnW Fe2.b kit. I reshaped the top of the inlet manifild where it mounts onto the cylinders, I also made and fitted the locking rings. I made and added the throttle levers and linkages, these are made from brass brass sheet and trass tube, but still need to add cables. I also fitted the fuel primer cups, these came from the Aviattic and are a product of Ron Kootje The rocker assemblies have been hollowed out to define the leaf spring, I also replaced the push rods with brass tube. All the small nuts are brass nuts from RB Motion. The copper colour is a mix of Mr Metal Color Copper and a small amount of Mr Metal Color Brass, these were thinned slightly with lacquer thinners and airbrushed, once dry I buffed it with a soft brush.
Des.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qDRptA0VdNI/U3fsrztlImI/AAAAAAAANcA/HpyK8vmTmy8/s800/beardmore%2520x%25202.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-eS-6O3vyEfM/U3fsrJnqjAI/AAAAAAAANb4/h1fd36J10pw/s800/beardmore%2520x%25203.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dCOk_JWVutU/U3fsrsxPeJI/AAAAAAAANb8/GOXojf8w6QA/s800/beardmore%2520x%25201.jpg)
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Looking awesome so far. I will keeep a close eye on this for my future (distant) Fe2b build
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Thanks Sasho, so far it is an easy engine to work on.
Here are some photos of the engine roughly assembled with what parts I have done so far, everything is just sitting in position for photo purposes.
Des.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0HH-W6KYat4/U3f4l_rHXtI/AAAAAAAANck/0U4YBgwjOx4/s800/beardmore%2520x%25206.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VwXPVZTfHh8/U3f4l5Xd9MI/AAAAAAAANcY/FAXfDWIV2DE/s800/beardmore%2520x%25204.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L8qM63EshXs/U3f4l0LIRjI/AAAAAAAANcg/0AQBeGgBgAE/s800/beardmore%2520x%25205.jpg)
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Beautiful Des. I cannot wait to read the build log. I have learned so.much in such a short time here.
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Des,
Your USUAL SUPERB WORK! Just Stunning as always!
RAGIII
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I never tire of watching and taking notes. Fantastic color and detail.
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Looks amazing. WOW.
James
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Amazing job, Maestro!
Mark G.
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Simply a piece of art!
Dan.
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Exellent work Des.
Martin
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I could have done with these photos when I was scratch building the Beardmore for my 1/72 conversion. The amount of extra detail that you manage to put in is just astounding. I cannot wait to see the rest of the FE 2 build.
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Wonderful detail and beautiful work Des! The rocker assemblies and push rods are brilliant, looking forward to following your progress as you "romance the Fee".
Cheers,
Lance
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Hi Des,
That copper finish, is top, of course such is the rest of the build.
I don't have any experience with this Mr Metal paint.
Do you need the brands thinner, or would a general lacker thinner do the job?
Would an acrylic primer be good, or is a special primer be needed?
Does it dry quick and what is there to know about this paint?
Cheers,
Danny
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The Mr Metal Color range of paints are excellent, I use their Stainless to colour all my rigging wires.
Usually the paint does not need thinning and spays very well straight from the bottle, but if thinning is required I use just a tad of lacquer thinners (general purpose). No primer is needed but if you wish a coat of black under the metal finishes gives a very nice appearance, but be careful what paint you use as the lacquer thinners will react with the base coat.
Drying time is extremely fast, just a matter of seconds, but i usually wait a few minutes then I buff the paint with a soft brush or a cotton bud (Q tip).
Constant handling will eventually rub the paint off but if you apply a coat of clear this will solve that issue, but the clear will take away the effect of the metalic finish somewhat. If you dont want to apply a clear coat but plan on handling your painted item wrap it in a tissue paper first then that will eliminate the paint rubbing off.
I always clean my airbrush with Lacquer thinners, this does a great job.
The colour I used on my engine is Mr Metal Color Copper with about 10 - 15% Mr Metal Color Brass added, always stir the paint very well before using, avoid shaking the bottle if possible.
The Mr Metal Colors spray extremely well but can be brushed, because of the very fast drying time brushing can sometimes be a bit of a problem, brush painting small parts is okay.
Des.
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Thanks for the information Des.
I've just ordered this paint, going to give it a try. ;)
Cheers,
Danny
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One word Des . . . . Cracker! Awesome job. You're a master 8)
Cheers
Dave
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Wonderful job of the engine parts, Des. When colouring your rigging
wires with Mr. Metal colour, do you spray or brush it on? I look
forward to more on the FE 2.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Like Des I use their "Stainless" for rigging wires. I keep a few drops of Tamiya Lacquer Thinner close by to dip the brush in as I go along as, like Des mentions, it dries almost instantly. It's a great product line, hard to get in my location as apparently the labelling doesn't meet the warning/caution criteria of the Canadian Safety Association, or so I've been told.
Cheers,
Lance
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really great, work, and give me inspiration, thanks for the tips
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Hello Des:
Just catching up with this one. In a word: Outstanding!
Best
Mark
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Thanks for all the nice comments. To answer your question Ernie I brush the stainless onto my rigging wires.
Des.
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Hi Des,
beautiful work on the engine and getting that non-sparkly metal look (a problem with several acrylic brands). I also must try the Mr. Metal range and get my black rigging painted up.
Probably also got to get my eyes fixed as well for this kind of detail!
cheers,
GrahamB
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Thanks for all the nice comments. To answer your question Ernie I brush the stainless onto my rigging wires.
Des.
I use the same product on my rigging applied in the same way, apart from my Fee which I left in the lines (WNW's elastic) natural almost white state to contrast with the black model.
Des, do you paint the lines before fitting to the model to avoid paint flecks on the model surface? I find other paint types, such as acrylics will flake off when dry when the lines stretch.
Super work on the Beardmore, this model really demands the detail as the engine is so exposed.
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Hello Des,
A work of art once again by the master of modeling. Wonderful!
Kind regards
Patrick
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Thanks guys for all your kind comments.
Ian, I paint all my rigging lines after they have been fitted but care has to be taken not to get paint onto other painted surfaces. The Mr Metal Color paints are lacquer based so are very thin, if you are not careful when painting your rigging lines the paint can easily "flick" off and land on places where you don't want it to go. To avoid this i cut paper to fit under the lines, the paper is cut as wide as possible to cover as much of the model area as possible, moving the paper as you run the brush along the line also helps to reduce the risk of paint getting onto the model.
Work on the engine has come to a stand still at the moment, I am STILL waiting on a delivery from RB Motion of some more small brass nuts, hopefully they will arrive tomorrow.
Des.
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Thanks guys for all your kind comments.
Ian, I paint all my rigging lines after they have been fitted but care has to be taken not to get paint onto other painted surfaces. The Mr Metal Color paints are lacquer based so are very thin, if you are not careful when painting your rigging lines the paint can easily "flick" off and land on places where you don't want it to go. To avoid this i cut paper to fit under the lines, the paper is cut as wide as possible to cover as much of the model area as possible, moving the paper as you run the brush along the line also helps to reduce the risk of paint getting onto the model.
Work on the engine has come to a stand still at the moment, I am STILL waiting on a delivery from RB Motion of some more small brass nuts, hopefully they will arrive tomorrow.
Des.
I found that too Des, a piece of paper between the rigging and the surface helps. Occasionally there are still some paint spots but I find a moistened with lacquer thinner (but not wet!!! q-tip very carefully brushed over the surface removes the flecks without damaging the paint job...
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Those metal parts look really really convincing.
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I managed to do a bit more work on the engine. I have assembled most of the parts, I added extra plumbing to the intake side and a lot of small oil plumbing to the exhaust side, the oil lines are .25mm brass wire so bending them to shape was quite easy. I removed the moulded oil lines from the oil tank and ran the new lines into each side of the tank. All the spark plugs are fitted and the ignition leads are fitted as well. I also fitted the drive gear for the magneto.
Des.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MJEKiGMkgno/U6qO8O-imDI/AAAAAAAANrM/jCfUOv8NVPw/s800/beardmore%2520x%252010.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f4WP26_MMlU/U6qO-ZPZDJI/AAAAAAAANrg/fHne16N7T-Y/s800/beardmore%2520x%25209.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UgsRHRGCvsM/U6qO9wgxVGI/AAAAAAAANrc/ocCOzuU2Xhc/s800/beardmore%2520x%252013.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NUvFAiacRRk/U6qO7ww-t0I/AAAAAAAANrI/hgpPCIEc0dQ/s800/beardmore%2520x%252012.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Du8EfWdxVF4/U6qO8F54oGI/AAAAAAAANrQ/uaqEHspEkJs/s800/beardmore%2520x%252011.jpg)
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Spectacular work, Des! Makes me want to build one more Fee...
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The engine looks superb, Des. Just wonderful.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
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Simply incredible. I look at your wiring harness, and then I look at my efforts, and knowing the struggles I endure while running the wires as poorly as I do, I honestly don't know how you do it. I tip my hat to you!
Cheers,
Chris
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Beautiful detailing Des :)
Terri
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Des,
Your detail work and painting techniques never cease to amaze me! Awesome work as always!!
RAGIII
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Wow what an exellent build Des. :-*
Martin
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The way you paint metallic parts is fantastic - as they look like being parts made from metal, not from plastic. Really impressive.
Stefan.
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Truly magnificent engine, Des! This Fee is gonna be a stunner.
Cheers,
Bud
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I'm lost for words again Des, absolutely incredible detail on the plumbing and wiring. This sort of work is in a class of it's own!
Cheers,
Lance
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I'm lost for words again Des, absolutely incredible detail on the plumbing and wiring. This sort of work is in a class of it's own!
Cheers,
Lance
I wholly agree with Lance. What else can I add?
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Hello Des:
I echo the comments of the others here, outstanding workmanship. Truly inspriational. I will be referring to your engine build when I tackle my Fee.
Best
Mark
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Super work, Des; a piece to be truly admired.
Best wishes
Nigel
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That looks like it would fire up. Great detailing and painting Des.
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How much time must pass me to come to such perfection? ;)
Great job. Congratulations.
Jacek
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Unbelievable work, Des . . . I am continually astounded!
Mark G.
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Beautiful, Des - really beautiful.
Servus
Bertl
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Another work of art Des, I always enjoy watching your builds, and will one day pluck up the courage to post my own work on here. A question, are you building and detailing this engine for a FE.2b? Or do you have plans for another airframe? Just curious
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Thanks very much for all the kind comments, very much appreciated.
Nanks, This engine is from the WnW FE.2b kit and will eventually go into that model, but just for something different I thought I would do the engine first.
Des
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A few more photos with some extra plumbing added to the engine, also the throttle cables and the flexible tacho drive. The two magneto drive gears are watch gears and the ignition leads are braided electrical cables from ear phones.
Des.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oNYC77umMzc/U7k8ck6vbtI/AAAAAAAAN1o/F6QmytdbUSQ/s800/beardmore%2520x%252014.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GepEsAxJ5eI/U7k8dKjc6aI/AAAAAAAAN1s/5PMjo9AZE5I/s800/beardmore%2520x%252016.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TGlRGylVYfA/U7k8ckUh9bI/AAAAAAAAN1k/RtkRu_R2yWA/s800/beardmore%2520x%252017.jpg)
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Wow, Des! This is undeniably your best engine yet and the most realistic Beardmore I've ever seen! Amazing work, mate. What type of earphones did that wire come from? I need to get some of that.
Cheers,
Bud
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Now that is some fine detailing Des. Looking forward to more!
Mark
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Des, I asked Chris Johnson a while ago about his painting workflow on things like engines with a lot of different coloured fiddly bits (thanks Chris!). I look at examples like his and your work, and there is such a clear and definite demarcation of every detail. Even when I paint parts individually I can't get the resolution that you do. What's your workflow for something like this? Paint all the parts individually then assemble? Assemble then mask and paint? Brush or airbrush? Inquiring minds need to know!
Thanks,
Lindsay
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Simply stunning Des.
Cheers,
Chris
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When you fit the fuel lines will it start and turn the propellor as well? Absolutely amazing work. If I had not seen it I do not think that I would have believed it!
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Absolutely amazing.
The metal parts are near perfect. I envy your skills.
S.
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My god des nice work like the trottle linkige how did you do that?
Ron
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<--- speechless! Wonderfully wonderfull work Des :)
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Great work, Des -
Your attention to detail is amazing
Regards
Dave
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Bud - The earphones are the type that push inside the ear, like ear plugs, very small. They can be found at the $2 shops, the cable is a twin cable which is necessary for the two ear plugs, inside each cable are three strands of the braided wire 0.2mm in diameter, the photos explain it better;
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EkP3NAIBhws/U7nUEBkD73I/AAAAAAAAN2E/VhrR2naViSY/s800/leads%2520x%25201.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tzzEs253X04/U7nUD304ETI/AAAAAAAAN2A/wc59kU381iM/s800/leads%2520x%25202.jpg)
Lindsay - I try to air brush as many parts as possible before assembly, as I use Mr Metal Color metal paints spraying gives a better finish due to it's very fast drying properties. As with all parts I scrape paint off areas where glue is to be applied then I assemble the engine. Any touch-up painting can quite easily be done after assembly. Things like plumbing and electrical wiring are painted after they are fitted as were the spark plugs, the ignition leads are natural wire. I try to leave all the RB Motion brass nuts as natural brass, they stand out better.
Ron - The throttle linkage cables are made from 0.25 brass wire bent to shape then fitted to the linkages, a small brass nut was placed near the lingage then the wire was painted black.
Stefanbuss - The Mr Metal range of metal colours are brilliant, they apply extremely well and dry very fast, they can be left as is or they can be buffed to give a nice sheen to suit your desired look. The paint can be sprayed or brushed but spraying is better.
Thanks very much for all the very kind comments.
Des.
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Beautiful. Thanks very much for the explanation.
LT
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Please excuse the quality of the previous photos of the engine, I had to use my old camera as the battery was flat in my new camera, a stuff-up on my part :-[
Des.
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Des,
Another fine update showing just how Spectacular your work is!
RAGIII
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Hi Des
Your engine looks exactly like the real thing! Are you going to dirty it up at all?
Cheers
James