forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: Modelnut on May 15, 2012, 08:30:26 AM
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I'm at the stage where I need to attach EIGHT struts to the wings of my Revell DH-2.
Any advise on mounting all those suckers straight and true would be much appreciated.
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Start with the four centre section struts and get the top wing square/aligned correctly. Use a jig if necessary - I use some of my son's lego bricks. When dry put in the remaining interplane struts. That is assuming the kit is not one of those where the interplane struts are in pairs with connecting strips and trenches in the wings (ugh!)
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To take Jame's excellent recommendation further here's the very simple alignment jig I use. You may still need the lego or simple wood / cardboard jig in combination with this.
Use your top wing strut mounting holes for the reference and drill a straight piece of plastic card stock to "simulate the top wing"..................check the photo for rough dimensions of the jig compared to your model.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_06571.jpg)
Once you have the location/spacing done start with the front or rear pair, drop in your slow curing CA and struts, once perfectly aligned I use my forth pair of hands (seems like it!) to apply some CA Accelerator. The second pair is far easier using the "set" pair to hold the alignment. Then you can pop on the upper wing and, as Jamo says, just spread the wings to insert the interplane struts.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_06591.jpg)
And the result, all four cabanes attached or in your case it will be the center pairs of interplanes.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_06662.jpg)
Here it is ready for the interplanes, the top wing attached only to the cabanes.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_06611.jpg)
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Lance
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Thanks for the jig idea. I've seen people use them, but you made it simple to understand. I would have never thought of the plastic sheet mock-up. The eight struts are all individual parts. Amazingly the spindly rear cage assembled square and with no warpage. It's not attached yet. I'll do that after I get the wings rigged.
Thanks again Guys! :)
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This is a good idea. May I add that if you use transparent plastic for the guide card, you can locate where the holes need to be drilled in the guide card by placing the guide card directly over the top wing and then be able to see through the transparent plastic to see exactly where the strut mounting holes are and ergo where the holes in the guide card need to be drilled out, to match that location. It is also easier to line up the struts and pop them into those holes in the guide card if you can see through the guide down on to the struts. The only thing is you need to find a sufficiently rigid but thin bit of transparent plastic to do the job.
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That's a great jig Lance and I wish I had seen it prior to installing my S.E.5a cabanes. NP's idea of using clear plastic will make it even easier for me . . . I hope!
Cheers,
Chris
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Great tips. Thanx guys!!!
Steve
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Yet another case of "two heads are better then one"! That's why I enjoy these forum discussions so much; the clear vs. solid colour plastic for the jig makes so much more sense, and I'm on it for sure. A good idea made better. Thanks NP, again I've learned something through the sharing of approaches and ideas. :)
Cheers,
Lance
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That's a great jig Lance and I wish I had seen it prior to installing my S.E.5a cabanes. NP's idea of using clear plastic will make it even easier for me . . . I hope!
Cheers,
Chris
Perfect timing for me: my WNW SE is still in the loft! I'll be using this idea when it (and the eventual Snipe!) gets decanted onto my modelling table. Thanks! :)
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Perfect timing for me: my WNW SE is still in the loft! I'll be using this idea when it (and the eventual Snipe!) gets decanted onto my modelling table. Thanks! :)
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Trackpad,
Worked on mine!
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1230.jpg)
If you are building the standard version the cabanes literally "snap" into their mounting holes. I modified with the True Details bulged cockpit (McCudden's B4891) and the jig saved the day as the cabanes had to be carefully positioned in their new holes.
Enjoy the build; it's an absolutely wonderful kit and I really was impressed with the fit etc.
Cheers,
Lance
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Greetings!
I have the 1/72 Eduard DH-2 Profipack and am absolutely lost at how to begin to rig it , once I start assembly it. I have a rigging diagram, all the .004 thread, and .005 wire I might ever need, but I can't fathom which technique to use and where (when) in the building process I should use them. Any thoughts from the collective wisdom on this board would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Rich De Lisi
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Welcome aboard Firechief. On mine, I built the rear cage separatly, making sure it was squared up. I then proceded to build the forward fuselage , painted it and the wings, then decaled. My struts are painted awaiting the time to put the above advise into action. I will then rig as much as possible the forward assembly, then attach the cage and finish rigging.
Des has a rigging tutorial as well as other tips on his main site. We micro-scale fanatics have to adapt our methods a little from the larger scale builds though. (Unless you have eyes like a microscope and hands like a neurosurgeon, which I don't.)
For rigging into the fuselage I drill a tiny hole and insert fishing line, 2 or 4 # test, and secure with a drop of superglue. On stuts I carefully tie a slip knot and secure with glue and carefully pull taunt and repeat the method on the other strut. Work outward towards the wingtip.
There are some other 1/72 scale builders on here that have mastered rigging in the small scale. Hopefully one of them can jump in, or peruse the under construction builds for 1/72 projects.
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Perfect timing for me: my WNW SE is still in the loft! I'll be using this idea when it (and the eventual Snipe!) gets decanted onto my modelling table. Thanks! :)
Trackpad, Worked on mine!
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1230.jpg)
If you are building the standard version the cabanes literally "snap" into their mounting holes. I modified with the True Details bulged cockpit (McCudden's B4891) and the jig saved the day as the cabanes had to be carefully positioned in their new holes.
Enjoy the build; it's an absolutely wonderful kit and I really was impressed with the fit etc.
Cheers,
Lance
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Hey, Lance,
Thanks for this information. I've got it printed out and placed into the SE box. Mine will probably be a standard build, but I can use all of the thoughts and reviews I can find! ;)
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I "sort of" completed the DH2 this weekend. Miles and miles of rigging! And I only did 3/4 of what should be there!
On THE VERY LAST "X" on the cage in front of the tail empendage I screwed up. It was slightly loose and I went to heat tighten it. I thought Man I'm gonna snap it. Sure enough I did. :-[
After spending an entire rainy afternoon rigging the little bird and on the LAST step before finishing I goof bigtime.
She's on the display shelf anyway for now. When my discouragement subsides I'll repair her.
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Photos, Sir, photos! I just have to see this one rigged in 1/72nd scale. Congratulations on this project. I built this as a youngster, and the rigging requirement never entered what passed for my head! ;D
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You persevered and got it done. As mentioned send a pic or two. How do you heat tighten your rigging? I light a toothpick, blow it out and use the glowing ember and slowly move it toward the stretched sprue. Gives a nice control to the process.
Steve
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I used a blown match to tighten. Perhaps my depth perseption went wonky rigging the thing. I'm working long hours this week, but I will try and get a pick up soon. Out of 8 or 10 little builds so far maybe 2 look decent. I need to get them posted warts and all to show everyone.
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For my rigging I use an incense stick: not too much heat, and you can gauge where the heat is going by watching the smoke. And the modelling space smells so NICE!! ;D
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The only thing is you need to find a sufficiently rigid but thin bit of transparent plastic to do the job.
How about a CD case, the front clear part, of couse?
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For my rigging I use an incense stick: not too much heat, and you can gauge where the heat is going by watching the smoke. And the modelling space smells so NICE!! ;D
You old hippie!! (I do the same....)
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The only thing is you need to find a sufficiently rigid but thin bit of transparent plastic to do the job.
How about a CD case, the front clear part, of couse?
I am thinking the lid of the container from my local Thai takeaway (actually not quite so local - the local fell down in the earthquake). Of course a fresh lid will be needed for each model, and maybe some practice meals, oop, models!
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For my builds (all 1:72) I drill and thread the rigging. I have quite a few pushers in the stash (including the Eduard DH-2) and so far my plan is to use plastic stock rod for the tail booms and drill as before. Maybe even square section rod, drill, then sand to what will pass for round...I expect a bit of trial and error before I find a method that works. I used quite a few drill bits on my Bleriot and will probably use quite a few more on these pushers....one thing I do know, I won't be using the brass rod supplied with some of these kits (eg Pegasus Vickers Gunbus).
Ian