forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: IanB on June 03, 2013, 07:31:57 AM
-
This is a build I'm doing for a group build on another site and I thought I'd share it here....
My referances are the Ilya Muromets Special by Harry, along with Windsock International Vol 6, Number 4 and Vol 12 Number 2, which contain articles by Harry, one on the plane itself, the other on the kit and it's many faults. Unfortunately the plans are all for the blunt nose Veh and I'm building the earlier sharp nosed variant, but from Harry's comments in his articles I think I'm pretty accurate on the differances.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4105/34793756054_cec1c76b5a_b.jpg)
I'm not going to beat around the bush - the kit is terrible! The parts are very thick and lumpy, but that's the least of the problems.
This is what you get:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4065/35634466275_8fdda2032f_b.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4137/35634465285_0b01462794_b.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4071/35247991350_5c3e9d7f4f_b.jpg)
As to the errors, I'll list those as I get to them, but since I've started on the fuselage here is the list:
1) The upper longeron is a straight line from nose to tail. It should be parallel to the lower for about 1/5 of the total length, then both upper and lower taper equally to the tail. The longerons should also be parallel in plan form, easily rectified with a little sanding.
2) It's just over 1mm too deep for its entire length. This is not too difficult to resolve as it's about the thickness of the plastic, (except for the nose section which requires a little more to be removed) so I just cut the fuselage bottom off from the inside, using the edge of the plastic as my guide.
3) The windows are too big. Again fairly easy to rectify with plastic card.
4) The door is too far aft.
5) The forward upper gunner's position is too far forward, and the aft one shouldn't be there at all on this early version. (It was only on the later Geh model).
6) All the internal structure and bracing wires are moulded on the OUTSIDE of the fuselage! Since they are joined by many large ejector pin marks it's a case of "get out the sanding block...." anyway!
So, to the first job - correcting this big lump of plastic and making it more accurate!
This first shot shows just how much I had to remove from the bottom of the fuselage to correct the depth. The cockpit section was also cut off where the parallel longerons end, and sanded on their top joint to make them parallel in plan form. The inside of the cockpit sections and the front part of the aft sections were thinned extensively to bring them to a more accurate scale thickness. A little sanding on the aft section where the cut was made brought the tail down to where it should be. A little more sanding on the stern post to square it up, and also at the sides to correct the curve of the tail in plan form. This is all after the outside of the fuselage was sanded clean to remove all the mouldings and ejector pin marks. The door is in its original (incorrect) position in this shot.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4146/35465603052_1f423e5092_b.jpg)
The windows were then corrected with plastic card. I cut "L" shaped pieces and fitted them to bring the rear of the windows forward, and the bottoms upward. The front windows were also fitted with new bottom pieces to make them narrower top-to-bottom. The upper gunner's position was moved aft so that the front of the new opening is about where the rear of the moulded one is, by cutting out the fuselage in the correct place and filling the moulded opening with card.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4131/34824647443_5a24e7e8b9_b.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4019/34824647323_0ef77c5fe8_b.jpg)
I also cut out the engineer's access panels in the fuselage sides - these provided a means for him to crawl out onto the wing in flight and fix the engines! One of these will be fitted open, the other closed. If anyone knows how they opened please let me know! I'm not sure if they were removable, or hinged out from the bottom....
The door was moved forward to its correct position which gave the opportunity to square it up again after the adjustment to the slope of the upper rear longeron, and the rear gunner's position closed up with plastic card. The door will be modelled open (it slid rearwards, between the canvas exterior and plywood interior panels, like a pocket door).
The internal rigging has been fitted across the window and door openings by using a seam scriber and inlaying the rigging line. The joins won't show inside as the cockpit was lined with plywood and this will be fitted over the rigging. I have made these ply panels from card and will fit them soon. I have also drilled new mounting holes for the lower wings. They will be mounted on brass rod to provide some strength, and the rod will be covered with plastic rod (hollowed out to fit over it) where it's visible inside to simulate the spars running across the fuselage floor.
Finally the cockpit and rear sections were rejoined, filled and sanded as necessary.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4024/35247990870_fa4f12eb33_b.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4286/35466482582_14ceb460f1_b.jpg)
The lower pic shows the "ply" panels sitting in place inside the cockpit.
I'm almost to the stage where I can join the fuselage halves and start the interior detailing. One advantage of removing the floor is that I can build it up separately then just slip it in from below once the details on the sides and roof have been done. I will need to add the crossmembers on the roof, and rig them, as they are very visible through those big windows.
One last question: I want to try to replicate the feeling of light coming through the rear fuselage fabric. I've thought of using flourescent or luminous paint and then a thin coat of white or CDL to tone it down a little...any thoughts? Is this type of paint even available?
Thanks for checking in, on what will be a long, and hopefully fun, build!
Ian
-
Ian,
Excellent progress to date my old friend. Love that wooden paneling too. As to your question I would suggest you draw in the framework in colored pencil or pen then lightly overspraying with an off white paint. That would give you the appearance of transparency . Hope this helps.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Very cool 8)
-
Gregory,
I'm looking more for the "light" rather than the transparency. The fuselage will be quite dark inside towards the back and obviously with a fabric fuselage, it shouldn't be that dark....it may be that your suggestion is about as close as I can get but a luminous paint may work, if there is such a thing... the only other option would be to cut out the sides and top, leaving just the frame, and add very thin plastic card as the "fabric" - maybe too much work!
Ian
-
" the only other option would be to cut out the sides and top, leaving just the frame, and add very thin plastic card as the "fabric" - maybe too much work!"
Ian,
Sure a lot of work but I believe the results would certainly be worth all the effort my old friend. Besides the basic kit require extra efforts anyway so my not go for it. No doubt you have the skills and craftsmanship pull it off perfectly. Whatever you decide I'm looking forward to following this thread and enjoying your works.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Outstanding progress, Ian. I'm looking forward to following this one.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Ian,
Great start and progress! Looking forward to the rest of the build!!
RAGIII
-
Although there's still plenty to do to the fuselage, I decided to take a closer look at the engines for a change of pace. I bought a set of Argus engines from Engines & Things, and they are supposed to be specifically for this kit. However there is quite a bit of work to be done to correct them as they appear to be the later 190hp Arguses.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4054/35248299870_0286f20edf_b.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4142/34793756104_9ba5828ecf_b.jpg)
Oddly enough, the drawing is the one that comes with the engines and it appears to be correct. I'm not quite sure why the engines don't match it!
I'll probably settle for correcting the nose around the prop shaft (cutting it off!), removing and correcting the inlet manifolds and maybe carbs, separating the three cylinder banks with a thin saw-cut (shouldn't be an issue if I'm removong the manifolds anyway), adding the oil pipe along the left side, and maybe something to represent the magneto leads into their sheaths - I'm certainly not going to add each individual wire in this scale!
As for the pushrods....maybe - not sure yet but it would certainly make a big visual impact so I may go for it!
I'll also need to make up four small cowlings for the front left side of each engine, which were fitted on the particular aircraft I'm building (and apparently on all the aircraft flown subsequently by the pilot of this machine) to protect the carbs,
Should keep me out of mischief for a while!
Ian
-
Quite a project you are taking on Ian but what you have done so far is very good, the fuselage is shaping up nicely. This will be an impressive looking model when completed, I wait patiently for the next updates.
Des.
-
A little progress on the engines - I know I'm getting a little ahead of myself here, but I needed a change from the fuselage work....
I first removed all the moulded detail on the cylinders (carbs, ignition lead tubes, inlet manifolds, exhausts etc) then separated the cylinder blocks into three blocks of two. A little Mr Dissolved Putty between the cylinders in each pair has reduced the depth of the gap between them. The cylinders aren't quite the correct shape - they should have a little more of a bulge at the top, but short of removing them and recasting my own, they'll have to do. A few more cuts separated the valve rockers from each other and at least gives the appearance of separate valve assemblies.
The engine mounting plates are in the wrong place (the end ones should be a little closer to the ends of the crankcase) but I've left them where they are and just opened them up to look like three plates instead of the moulded triangular lump. I've also removed the conical "nose" on the crankcase and replaced it with a flatter cross-shaped piece.
Next I'll give them a coat of paint, then start adding back the details, including the pushrods.
I also had a look at the kit props - surprise! They're awful! The pic shows one as supplied, and the first of the corrected ones - quite a differance and I'm pleased with the result. I just hope I can match the others to it!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4003/35248299970_321e93d2de_b.jpg)
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Hi Ian,
great build and project,you're a braver man than I Gunga Din.
The cabin structure wall translucency,have you thought about tracing paper panels cut to fit the cabin walls.I just held a sheet of paper up to a wooden ships deck and all the detail showed through,but with a light effect.Don't know wether it will work in that enclosed space though.
Dave.
-
Any progress Ian? I'm looking forward for this big bird.
-
Thanks for the interest!
I'm working on masters for the engine and radiators so that I can cast them in resin. I have a pair of cylinders almost done, the inlet manifold and carburetor are nearly finished and the radiator needs trimming up. The crankcase has been modified from the Engines & Things one, with the cylinders removed. I will post pics when I have the masters ready.
I have never tried resin moulding before - how quickly does this stuff set? Will the resin in the mould cure quicker than any I have left? In other words, will it be possible to mix enough for 3 cylinders, pour one, let it set, pour another and so on? Or will it all set at the same pace?
Ian
-
will it be possible to mix enough for 3 cylinders, pour one, let it set, pour another and so on? Or will it all set at the same pace?
Ian
Yes it will all set at once, so no, not possible. Once you mix it up it has a very short pour life -- like a few minutes at most.
Did you see Albatros1234's link to basic resin casting? Gives some good basics. If not lemme know, I'll dig around for the link...
Cheers
-
Here's the progress so far with the engines.
I've made a pair of cylinders from 2mm rod, and wrapped the top half with .25mm x 2.5mm strip for the water jacket. These were then sanded to the correct shape. The carburetor venturis and inlet manifold are .75mm rod, and the radiator is a piece of stock sheet clad in .25mm brass rod. This still needs the ends and straps adding but I'm pleased with how it's coming on. The crankcase is the engines & things one, modified front and rear, and with the cylinders removed. The plan is to cast all these in resin rather than try to make 12 sets of cylinders and 4 of everything else and get them all the same. I've also made 4 camshaft gears from 2.4mm plastic tube, filled with .4mm plastic rod to make it solid. These were sanded to the correct thickness, drilled and fitted with a brass rod "camshaft". These gears also drove the left magneto, with a smaller one on the right side. The mag drive gears are simply short lenghts of .5mm rod which will be cut to the correct length later. I will make 4 smaller gears for the left mags later.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4216/35595754826_7a14ec2a9f_b.jpg)
This pic also shows the original, already modified, cylinders and should give an idea of why I decided to scratch my own!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4278/35595754926_24753ba029_b.jpg)
I'm hoping that the parts on the rear of the crankcase will cast ok...we'll see!
Ian
-
Keep in mind that the way the pats look now they cant be cast since they wont come out off the mold some parts you have to make a two part mold to be able to get the part released from the mold. Or add styrene/casting blocks.
Also some parts need to be resin injected hence the complex shape of the part to preven intrapment of air bubles wich can result in a half casted part.
Plus resin casting is expensive making rubber molds without air bubles would mean you have to degass the silicone rubber to prevent airbubels in you mold wich will show in your final part.
Myself invested over 2000 euro before i had good results so that i could sel the parts to fellow modelers.
Also keep in mind you get lots of airbubles in your part since the curing is a chemical reaction wich makes litle airbubbels hence the need of a presure pot for curing the parts in.
You can get resin wich curse in 7 min witch has a potlife of 3 min myself am using resin witch cures in 1 hour and has a pot life of 7 min.
The thinner parts are the more time it takes to cure for example your crank case wil cure faster then the propshaft.
Ron
-
Thanks Ron, I'll bear that in mind.
I was planning on a two-part mould, with vents at the end opposite the pour hole to allow air to escape. Should be an interesting experiment if nothing else!
Ian
-
Since the weather here was crappy today and it was my day off, I'd hoped to get the Nieuport a little closer to finished but my strut repair needed repair so....a little work on the radiator master, then what to do? I decided to make a start on the tail surfaces - I know, I'll soon have so many sub-builds going on I'm going to get lost - but I had to do something!
The rudder is the wrong shape and twice the required thickness (2mm instead of 1mm). The two side rudders ditto, plus they don't have the required curve. The horizontal stabiliser has the same thickness problem, is 2mm too short (side to side) on each side and over 5mm too short front to back, and again doesn't have the required curve, and the elevators are too deep front to back (they make the total depth of stabiliser and elevator nearly correct!) and are too thick and the wrong shape! So a good basis for scratchbuilt tail surfaces....
The rudder, elevators, and horizontal stabiliser are 1mm sheet, the outer rudders are .75mm sheet. I hope to replicate the batons that held the fabric in place by scribing the surface and letting in the same fishing line I use for rigging. This should, I hope, give me a decent half-round finish somewhat to scale.....I think I'll have to do something similar for the wing too...
Here's what I have so far:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4257/35634906055_0ba3552ea2_b.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4236/35634905735_fbb53bb8a5_b.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4280/35634905865_e2a69e2c95_b.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4145/35595754946_1c53bae3a6_b.jpg)
Good job I love this part of modelling - the cutting, sanding, etc that is needed to fabricate new and improved parts!
Ian
-
Nice work Ian on the scratch building of the tail surfaces and the fin and rudders, they will certainly be more in keeping with the scale of your model.
Des.
-
Terrific work on the tail surfaces! Innovative method for the batons!
RAGIII
-
Great job Ian! I am astonished at how far off scale the original parts were. :o This is a fascinating aircraft, and I look forward to seeing all that you will do with this kit. Impressive work so far. Bravo! ;D
Regards,
Bob
-
Thanks gents!
I hope the inlay method works for the batons, I haven't tried it yet. I did, however, try some other methods on my Blériot, so I know a few that definitely don't work....
Ian
-
Although I haven't posted anything for a while I have been busy! Apart from finishing the Nieuport 28, I have been experimenting with something entirely new to me: casting my own parts.
May I present my first effort:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4211/35634466175_97eb58a798_b.jpg)
It did actually reach as far as the mould - just! :)
An afternoon of casting and many failures eventually resulted in four crankcases and radiators that are useable, a couple of air pockets to fill on the rads but nothing drastic.....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4216/34824643843_700cddf535_b.jpg)
I decided after a few attempts that it would be easier to make all the cylinder pairs, carbs and inlet manifolds individually - they would require almost as much effort cleaning up as it takes to make them from scratch and wouldn't be as crisp in the detail, so that's a job for tomorrow.....or at least a start on them - I have one pair of cylinders made and need another 11, plus 3 more carbs/inlet manifolds!
Ian
-
Very nice first attempt at casting Ian, looks like you have pulled it off nicely, this is an area of modeling I am going to venture into soon.
Des.
-
Very nice work on your first casting effort! Looking forward to the next update,
RAGIII
-
Superb work from you IanB. Very hard work to get that model in the right shape and casting your own pieces.
Nicely done.
Chers
-
One of my favourite threads recently!
-
Quite a project you have started Ian, looking very impressive so far.
Cheers
Pete.
-
An excellent thread - very interesting how you made the tail units and cast the new parts. This is modelling to the very highest standard and I will continue to follow this with great interest and looking out for ideas. Many thanks.
-
My little Argus production line is making headway...the cylinder pairs are all done and mounted on the crankcases - I may tweak a couple of them to get them a little more level bt that really only shows in the pics...we'll see! The cylinders are 2 x 5mm long pieces of 2mm rod glued together, then the top halves were wrapped in a strip of 2.5mm x .25mm and the heads were filed to the correct shape when dry. I'm very pleased with the outcome and it was a surprisingly quick process - the filing of these tiny little things took just under 2 hours for all 12 pairs - needless to say not a continuous 2 hours! They are already drilled for the inlet manifolds which will be added after I've figured out the pushrods....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4119/34824639683_a86f4fc0de_b.jpg)
Time for a beer...
Ian
-
Your engines look terrific. Very impressive work to date!
RAGIII
-
Hi IanB.
Great job in those tiny engines (http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/TheZabu/magnify.gif).
Your doing wonders in that model.
Cheers (http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/TheZabu/goggleson.gif)
-
Great subject! A pity the kit is so rough, but it looks like you are gaining the upper hand.
-
I've put the engines away until later as there's no point adding all that detail and then putting them in a bag until needed.
So today was spent preparing the fuselage interior and building some of the interior fittings. The fuselage side bracing is just drawn on with a pencil as it really can't be seen, thin strip was added as the formers. The upper fuselage bracing will be done with mono as it doesn't follow the roof contours, the cross bracing likewise, but the floor will also be drawn in.
I found a set of 4 bombs, I don't recall which kit they came from, but the size was almost perfect. The tails were removed and replaced with a small piece of plastic rod. They'll be separated later and fitted into the bomb rack when it is built. The Deperdussin frame was made from .016" brass wire with plastic rod for the switch console and pulleys, and .005" sheet for the main pulley cover. I'll drill the lightening holes in it later. Steering wheel is from .016" aluminium tube bent around plastic rod, with .005" plastic strip for the braces.
I've also started to prepare the cockpit floor and wing spars. Since I'm mounting the wings on brass rod for strength, the spars are plastic rod hollowed out to fit over the brass rod.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4264/34824641343_e21e2ccb23_b.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4285/34824640733_a9a221dcdc_c.jpg)
Slowly but surely....
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Coming along very nicely Ian, the fuselage interior looks great, it will be nice to see the cockpit details start to go into place.
Des.
-
As soon as I finished my model Gotha IV, I had in my hand model Ilya Muromets, but I was very hesitant, and I did not buy it. Frightened me rigging. Maybe it was a mistake, who knows?
Now I can only watch how your beautiful model is created.
Adam.
-
Ian,
Man the ol'big stick never looked better my old friend. Your additional scratch built details First Class all the way as is the entire project to date. Honestly it almost makes me want to drag my Ilya out of mothballs and give her a go. Especially after having been following your Ilya build. Now I can see with extra work the kit is indeed worth building. Keep up the excellent and impressive work.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Nice start on a beast of a kit Ian.
-
I've finally got around to doing some more on this project. Delays due to trying to reclaim the garden/yard from nature, and remodelling a bathroom - both of which are still ongoing!
The fuselage halves have been joined and I've added the gunner's platform and lower wing wountings, which are brass rod. I used evergreen channel to cover the rear one, and rectangular section rod for the front, hollowed out with a fine saw to fit over the brass rod.
I decided the pencil lines for the interior weren't going to work, so I drilled all the holes (54 in the fuselage, 2 each for each roof cross-member!) and have spent spare time this week adding the interior rigging. Most of it will never be seen, but with such large windows up front I had to add it just in case anyone ever decides to shine a torch inside... :-"
All done now apart from the lower cross bracing which will be done in the same way as the upper - by threading the cross members, then gluing them in place. I've also made a little more progress on the interior fittings. I'll post pics of those when I start to install them.
This is the same method I used for the Bleriot upper and lower cross bracing, seems to work well!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4111/34824640223_ce0ac214ae_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4230/34824644173_98d14986db_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4209/34824642373_ece44639ca_c.jpg)
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Nifty!
-
Great looking interior Ian.
Nicely done.
Cheers
-
Ian,
Outstanding craftsmanship my old friend. I believe you made an excellent call deciding to
rig hsr interior. Best luck in your remodeling project too. I've a complete remodeling and update.
for our home before moving back toTexas. Want a job?
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Even with the outside "distractions", you are making good progress, Ian.
The interior bracing is spot-on...worth the extra effort. If I haven't mentioned
the interior wood effects, they are great! Looking forward to more updates.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
A little more progress has been made on the interior detail. A lot of time and not much to show, but it needs doing. The last problem is the gunner's ladder. I'm using .016 brass rod and superglue but every time I get it put together it breaks when I try to touch up the paint. Anyone know of any 1:72 scale ladders that are available, maybe from a train accessories supplier or similar?
Fuel strainers/sumps and fire extinguisher:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4213/34824645473_632c1d687c_c.jpg)
Bomb racks
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4146/34824642223_50e99631aa_c.jpg)
General interior view:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4236/34824643953_55fce95cc1_c.jpg)
Pilot's seat and deperdussin frame/steering wheel:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4215/34824640313_18006a98dc_c.jpg)
Once I get the ladder sorted out I can fit the rest of the interior rigging and the floors, the rudder pedals and framework, then get some paint on it!
Ian
-
Ian you are doing marveolus work on the beastie! I have been snooping around
and am wondering if a 1/72 boarding ladder from a modern jet would work?
Here's a couple of linky ideas...
http://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/Photo-etched-parts/Photo-etched-set/Aircraft/1-72/F-4-ladder-1-72.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dreammodel-1-72-0545-Su-27UB-30-30MKK-Ladder-PE-/360754313445
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
Ian,
Just keeps getting better and better with each new update my old friend. Outstanding project.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
The interior is looking excellent Ian, I hope you have some luck finding a ladder.
Des.
-
Very nice update Ian.
The interior, seat and steering wheel are nicely done.
Cheers
-
It's nice to see the progress, it looks great.
Adam.
-
:o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
-
Excellent interior work! This one is really starting to come together nicely!!
RAGIII
-
What a beast this will be Ian! It's looking very impressive so far and I can't wait to see what you make of the gun positions.
Best wishes
Nigel
-
Beautiful work on the interiors as everyone says... I look forward to getting more pictures!!!!
:D
-
I have a question...are you really going to put a lid on it and hide all that awesomeness inside?
Incredible work.
-
The fuselage on this beast is now closed up.
The ladder came from a set of railway ladders and stairs. It needed a little thinning and I narrowed it slightly and it looks fine. I had to remove the control frame and shorten it a little as it sat too high, I haven't yet reinserted it as I want to finish off the main bodywork first. That is well on its way. This weekend I've finished the interior rigging and added the rear floor, so when that's properly dried I'll fill and sand the gaps, work on the horizontal tail surfaces and fit those, then she should be ready for a coat of primer and no doubt more filling and prep work!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4279/34824645363_d4b2eb8108_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4215/34824643483_93af34862e_c.jpg)
Ian
-
When I`m looking at your effort on this model, and how nice it looks makes me want to buy one someday.
One of my favourite under construction threads ever!
-
Sorry Ian,
Only just caught up with this - fabulous work! ;)
Guy
-
Thanks for all the comments folks!
@xmald - it may well be easier to scratch the whole thing! I believe the ICM kit has better engines, but the wheels on this one are better, so take your pick....
Here's the latest on the "beast":
I've taken a new approach on the batons which held the fabric in place. I scribed the lines into the wing/tail surfaces and then glued monofilament using ordinary plastic glue. The scribing helps keep it straight and also gives it a little more "bite" to attach and hold firmly - it's not scribed deeply, only two light passes with a scriber is enough. It seems to work, the primer will be the teller....
I decided to use the kit wings as they are not too bad in profile. Surface detail has all been removed. They have been thinned drastically and corrected for aerofoil section (not perfect, but a heck of a lot better). The lower wings had the rear tips rounded off and the upper wings have been narrowed slightly in chord and lengthened by adding 3mm and 1.5mm plastic strip to the inner edges of the main and outer sections respectively. The wing tips have also been reshaped and thinned so they don't look like the scaffold planks they originally resembled. Ailerons have been scratched from stock sheet.
The wing centre section has been corrected by removing the pointed rear ends, adding .5mm plastic stock on either side to widen it and 1mm at the rear to move the rear edge further aft. I then filed out the inner edges of the sides to widen the gap, and the front edge of the rear spar to move it back to its correct position. Pins will be added to attach the wings. The additions to the wings add a whole 1cm to the winspan!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4034/34824644953_b5ae561db7_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4047/34824639263_bbfc5e3909_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4143/34824643133_38cf82a2c1_c.jpg)
I've attached the outer sections to the main upper wings and will finish sanding them to obtain the same thickness and section before I scribe and add the "batons".
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Looking really great Ian! Terrific idea using the monofilament!
RAGIII
-
You are making great progress on this model Ian, the use of the mono is a good idea and appears to work well.
Des.
-
Great Idea with the monofilament, Ian. Good indication of your imagination. I am
really enjoying following your build. Thanks for sharing!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
Great idea that you had with the mono.
I would never imagine the work that this model needs to get it right, but you're doing quite a job.
Well done Ian.
Cheers
-
Ian,
Outstanding work on the fuselage my old friend. I almost hate to see the improvements sealed up inside. There are no doubt more awesome improvement will come to light before this baby completed. Looking forward to more.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Thanks for all the comments folks!
I've done a little more on the wings - the aerofoil section is now acceptable and the joints are done - the scribing on the upper wings has been filled and sanded and will be done again - it wasn't far off, but far enough! The lower wings have the the walkways and wing section clamps added and the batons will be added when the upper wings are at the same stage...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4143/34824644613_a764998be7_c.jpg)
Ian
-
Man I cannot wait to see how this build looks when finished.
Excellent work.
-Roger
-
Thanks, Roger.
I haven't been idle, but adding all the "batons" to the wings and control surfaces has taken a long time and I'm not sure I'm happy with it. I may yet remove it all and replace it with thinner mono. We'll see.....
Ian
-
I really want one in 1/32 scale!
-
I really want one in 1/32 scale!
So you better start building a hangar for it ;) I think it`s big in 72nd, would be huge in 48th and in 32nd it would be a leviathan!
-
A hanger! Maybe xmald; some of us may already need house extensions to accommodate our growing collections.
Best wishes
Nigel
-
Hello Ian,
I missed this build as I was quite new on the forum at that time. You achieve an amazing build and show great craftmanship. This is really something.
Kind regards
Patrick
-
I really like the huge multi engine bombers! I'd like to have 'em all in 1/32 size. The WnW Gotha is 30 inches wide. Tha AEG G.IV will be close to that. A 1/32 Handly Page 0/400 would be cool. I need to lurn more about scratch building befor I attempt to start my collection of 1/32's.
-
Hello Ian:
Just catching up on this build. Very impressive work you are doing on this kit. I am looking forward to more progress and seeing what you do to spruce up the kit.
Best
Mark
-
Hi all,
Due to the big snow storm we were hit with last Thurs/Fri I had 4 days off instead of just the weekend, so made a little progress (sort of)...actually it was a slight step back.
I stripped off all the monofilament which I'd carefully applied to the flight surfaces. It was overscale and wouldn't stay attached properly at the leading edges due to its thickness and the curvature of the wing. I have cleaned up the surfaces and started again with thinner mono (2lb and .005" instead of 6lb and about double the thickness). In addition I've switched to Plastruct Plastic Weld instead of normal glue - it's working much better and sticking quicker, making the job much easier and cleaner. It also looks 10x better! So far I have the rudder, aileron upper surfaces, and one upper wing done. I did have the horizontal tail surfaces done (upper side only) but decided after further checking of photos that they should extend under the tail too so I stripped them again and will do those a 3rd time tomorrow!
I've also given the whole thing a coat of flat white primer to see where any further attention may be needed.
Pics to come...
Ian
-
Aweome work on this kit Ian! You are really doing some major renovations.
Mark
-
What a brilliant and inspirational build. Seeing work like this takes some of the trepidation out of attempting a large biplane from an older kit. 8)
-
Very nice work! It will be inspiration when I once build mine. :)
-
Here are a couple of pics as promised. Part of the upper wing, the rudder, and the horizontal stabiliser.
As mentioned, I stripped off all the first effort at the batons and cleaned up the surface as necessary. This explains the patches on the wing. The new, thinner, monofilament is attached first to the upper surface (the pieces long enough to double over), then the lower surface is scribed (this ensures that the top and bottom line up with each other) and the mono is folded under the wing and attached. Finally the ends are trimmed. Seems to be working well, the only slight problem is getting the mono to stick properly with the negative camber under the wing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4153/35465603752_3eec5cf60b_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4280/34824642093_df991e32e5_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4290/34824642913_fc86b9bb5a_c.jpg)
I'll almost be using more rigging line ON the wings than I will between them!
Ian
-
Ian,
Very nice work on your second effort! I probably would have accepted the first ::) Your dedication to getting it right is admirable to say the least!
RAGIII
-
My hat it's of to you Ina. Impressive!
Cheers
-
Just to let you all know I haven't forgotten this one. My bathroom remodel is well on the way to being finished and because we got snowed off (again) today I managed to finish the "batons" on all the tail surfaces and ailerons, only three wings to go now.... :-\
Ian
-
A major milestone has been reached - all flight surfaces are complete as far as the "batons" go! I now need to mark out the strut and rigging positions and drill them.... May need to buy some more beer....
Just for the hell of it, I worked out how much mono I used - each upper wing used 12.5 feet, each lower wing 8 feet! So a total of 41 feet (12.5 meters!) for the wings, plus the ailerons and tail surfaces!
Ian
-
Ian,
That's a lot of Mono but the results are worth the effort!
RAGIII
-
A major milestone has been reached - all flight surfaces are complete as far as the "batons" go! I now need to mark out the strut and rigging positions and drill them.... May need to buy some more beer....
Just for the hell of it, I worked out how much mono I used - each upper wing used 12.5 feet, each lower wing 8 feet! So a total of 41 feet (12.5 meters!) for the wings, plus the ailerons and tail surfaces!
Ian
Good grief, Ian. I think that job would drive anyone to drink! Excellent work on something
ultra-tedious. I look forward to your next update...and more beer. ;) ;D
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
Ian,
Let us know what brand of beer you used, it makes for really impressive results! ;D
Cheers,
Lance
-
I got a couple of small jobs dealt with yesterday, surprisingly enough, actually utilising kit parts! The engine bearers were thinned but otherwise left as is, the cabane struts (which are one piece as they were covered with fabric between them) were also thinned and a small piece added to the upper front to raise it slightly. This will give the wings the correct gap and ensure that the fore and aft struts are the same length - there was no stagger, the wing cellule being a perfect rectangle.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4116/35465603462_5d4859f556_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4114/34824644333_632d89c6bc_c.jpg)
I decided to use the kit fuel tanks, although they will need a touch of putty on the ends to round off the tips...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4067/34824641703_8f7fda5999_c.jpg)
I've also corrected a couple of errors I spotted on the wings - the lower ones needed a little tweak on the trailing edge to increase the camber, and the outer section of the upper wings should (and now does) have dihedral.
Ian
-
Great stuff, Ian. There's no way I'd have the patience to do that amount of work.
May need to buy some more beer....
Perhaps the site members should send you a slab or two- you've earned it!
Dal.
-
Well, folks, now that the Sopwiths are finished and I finally have a clear bench (apart from a 1:72 Airfix Hurricane, but that doesn't count...) it's back to this beast! I've been wanting to get back to it for a while, but kept giving in to temptation and starting something else!
There are pros and cons to leaving something for a while....I have forgotten a lot of the details I'd worked out, so will have to plan again, but my modelling skills have obviously improved over the last 3 years and what was acceptable, now isn't!
In particular, the wings. On closer examination it is obvious that much more work is required to tidy them up. I had given them a coat of primer and that looks as though it went on very dry....it's chalky. So the first action is too rub them down, hopefully without removing too much of the beading I added, (some of them have come loose anyway so I need to reattach quite a few) and see if I can get a decent surface. If not, it may be a case of stripping them and starting again, some areas really are that bad!
Here's what I have:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/629/31655386160_b41db9b0bf_k.jpg)
You can see some of the shadows caused b[y the lines that have come loose....a lot of work to do to get back to where I thought I already was!
Ian
-
I've just browsed through the whole thread -good luck on the mono wing ribs. I've tried that once to repair fuselage stringers, and after a year or so the loosened too, but underneath a finished model. I either used glue too sparingly, or it simply didn't bond that well... I've resorted to thin foil and thicker/thinner decals, but that's for repairs only, not entire wings!
Best of luck, though judging by your other build threads you'll get it sorted :)
-
Great to see you back onto this one Ian, I'm looking forward to seeing the next progress photos.
Des.
-
Thanks Des!
Jeroen, I'm hoping that with all the extra attention the mono should stay attached. I'm looking for something to spray over it all to help seal it all in place.....
5 hours today in addition to the time spent yesterday. I reattached all the loose lines and then took a fresh number 11 scalpel blade and trimmed the ends at an angle to help stop me catching them with my fingers and loosening them. Then any trace of a loose end was taken care of by holding the line against the wing with tweezers and dabbing PlasticWeld on to literally melt the end of the line to the wing. After that, a little Mr Dissolved Putty and more careful sanding to eliminate the last traces of the strut mounting holes and clean up any small imperfections. It seems as though every time I pick the wings up there is at least one more tiny loose end somewhere, but they are getting fewer and fewer, especially since trimming the ends and melting them on. I'm confidant that I have resolved the loose wires problem but would still welcome suggestions as to what would be best to use for overspraying to seal it all together.
Ian
-
There are pros and cons to leaving something for a while....I have forgotten a lot of the details I'd worked out, so will have to plan again, but my modelling skills have obviously improved over the last 3 years and what was acceptable, now isn't!
I keep a spiral notebook for each project, which stays with the model, and includes a punchlist (after a while turns into pages) and lots and lots of drawings. I also like to leave myself something really easy to do so that getting back into it isn't so daunting. Worst thing to do is to put it away when you hit something really difficult, then it gets really hard to pull it back down...
-
Bo, I should have done that, but since I never intended putting the thing away for 2 years it didn't occur to me! Great idea though, I'll try to remember that.
I have seen many people on Britmodeller forum referring to Halfords High Build Primer as a good product to use for filling minor surface blemishes etc. Since I live in the US that's not available, so I bought a can of Rustoleum Filler Primer. I've given the wings and tail surfaces a couple of thin coats and I like what I've seen. It looks thick when first applied but seems to even out and leave the detail clear once it dries - unless of course you're too heavy handed with it....
It appears to seal everything together and it goes on very nicely, leaving a good smooth surface for further paint. Here are a couple of pics of the wings and tail. It's hard to really get the detail to show in the pics, but I think you can get the picture. It has also highlighted a few small areas which will need a little more attention before final painting.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/546/31730353390_dc3780e112_k.jpg)
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/751/32066603686_6739f262b3_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/259/31730355880_053c4c275e_k.jpg)
I'll leave it all until tomorrow before any further work in them, thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Excellent work! I am glad to see you back on this one!
RAGIII
-
Very nice work on the wings. And a "chapeau!" for the bravery to start and to restart this kit!
Borsos
-
Really great to see you ice this one up again. This looks to be a major build without improvements - it will be worth following agin - hopefully to the finish line this time!
Stephen.
-
Thanks Krow, Rick, Borsos and Stephen! I'm going to need all the support I can get for this one......
I finished cleaning up the wings and tail surfaces this morning. They're not perfect, but I think they're as good as I'm going to get them, and I'm happy with them, so they've been wrapped in kitchen towel and put away until I'm ready to paint everything.
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/692/32009583271_52241b9ce2_k.jpg)
The major problem I had was how to make the complicated rudder pedals and their support frame, especially as I couldn't build them in situ, and I couldn't do them before I put the fuselage together as the floor section was separate from the front spar crossmember, and the pedals are attached to both!
This problem was resolved for me as the Deperdussin frame had come loose and to refit it I had to get inside....the only solution was surgery....
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/626/32128168765_1f8426ddff_k.jpg)
This made access easy, but I still had to figure out how to make the frames. I decided to use 0.010" brass rod and started by drilling two holes in the spar and 2 more in the front of the floor. A simple U shape piece was attached to the 2 spar holes, giving me the basic top and sides to the frame, and the front end pieces were attached to the floor and CA'd to the top frame.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/690/32009582761_c071ce9fd4_k.jpg)
2 simple triangular pieces were then added in the centre of the frame, and the triangle at the ends completed with the addition of a single piece at each end. The pedals themselves were made separately. The frame and pedals have now been painted and when they're dry I'll trim the pedals to size and attach them.
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/547/32128166445_89bd755f6a_k.jpg)
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/334/32009581901_ad7bb6be38_k.jpg)
Hopefully the nose will be back on by tomorrow evening and I can then continue the finishing of the fuselage ready for painting.
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Nice to see this resurrected. I wasn't around here when you started on this, but you are making great progress with the additional pieces. Are the brass pieces held together with CA glue?
Steve
-
They are Steve, that's why I drilled for the frame, just to give it a little more strength.
Ian
-
First job today was to complete the fitting of the rudder pedals and replace the nose. that all went without any problems...
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/1/500/32148861275_0a2115ec2b_k.jpg)
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/680/32000240252_785ae598c0_k.jpg)
I then decided to take a look at the lower transparency and see what work it needed...the answer, of course, was a lot! This is what came with the kit....
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/328/32000239822_e9c6f04305_k.jpg)
So, first off, out came the sanding sticks. It was thinned drastically in the inside, and the surface detail on the outside was removed - it was nice and crsp but there weren't enough frame pieces, so they'll be replaced. The micromesh was next and it was polished up inside and out, and finally it was trimmed to fit. This is how it looks now, I don't think I'll get a better fit than that!
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/501/32148860525_cb2b2d2895_k.jpg)
It's nice to finally use a kit part, albeit highly modified!
The last task for today was to add some more detail up front. I stretched a piece of clear sprue for the bank indicator, added that and then added the central post on the nose.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/1/725/32148861475_ad07d14e54_k.jpg)
Tomorrow will see a start on the side parts of the front windows. The 2 main windows at the front will be left until the end as I want to position them open.
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Since we're under a blizzard warning here on Cape Cod it's been a good day for modelling. I spent quite a while just doing final tidying up on the fuselage and making sure all the joins were taken care of. I then added pins on the centre "cabane" sections and another pin at the rear of the upper wing to make sure it all stays together. After that I couldn't resist a first dry fit to see how it all looks and check the angles..... she's a big bird!
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/347/31361457893_19546f2adc_k.jpg)
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/589/32133513646_bebb4ce1dd_k.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/474/32053515201_0ec9b4b2b5_k.jpg)
Then while reviewing pics I realised that there should be 2 small circular windows in the cabin roof. I had noticed them before but thought they weren't on the aircraft I'm modelling....unfortunately they are!
So I measured out the centres, guesstimating the size and position from the pics, and marked them on a piece of masking tape, then stuck the tape on the cabin and drilled through the marked centres.....
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/534/31361455973_3e1a0209eb_z.jpg)
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/676/32133510316_8b72ee37eb_k.jpg)
The size of the windows was a combination of guesswork, looking at the proportions in the pics, and the fact that I had both 3mm drill bits and a 3mm punch to make the windows! I think they may be slightly too far apart but I'm happy with it, it's certainly not going to be changed now!
Ian
-
Ian, some really clever scratch Mods and additions going on here, very impressive work! The brass and CA combo is a tough one that you've pulled off very nicely with great results. This is going to be one heck of a big and beautiful addition to your line up! 8)
Cheers,
Lance
-
Ian, some really clever scratch Mods and additions going on here, very impressive work! The brass and CA combo is a tough one that you've pulled off very nicely with great results. This is going to be one heck of a big and beautiful addition to your line up! 8)
Cheers,
Lance
I can't say it any better Ian! Big and Beautiful Indeed!
RAGIII
-
Ian, I love the work you're doing, masterclass as usual...
How did you polish the transparent under the cockpit?
After sanding it to make it thinner which treatment did you use to make it transparent again?
AnDonio
-
Been following this since the start. Very impressive. Can I second Antonio's request re the transparencies.
Regards, Steve
-
Lovely work, Ian! And a great pleasure to follow along. Your attention to detail is fabulous, and there are great tips and hints for us less-skilled modellers! Regards, Marc.
-
Thanks for the positive feedback gents, much appreciated!
Antonio and Steve - I used micromesh to polish the transparencies. After reading of others using it a lot to polish canopies and paintwork on car models I bought some and I'm glad I did! It starts at 3200 grit and goes all the way to 12,000. I just used each sheet in turn, leaving the result you see.....
I'll loose modelling time today due to having to clear the snow from yesterday, but the next step will be to get all the strut and undercarriage mounting points marked and drilled. That should keep me out of mischief for a while....
Ian
-
Lovely work, Ian! And a great pleasure to follow along. Your attention to detail is fabulous, and there are great tips and hints for us less-skilled modellers! Regards, Marc.
Agree wholeheartedly. Outstanding.
-
This is a really impressive build. A bit bigger than the two Sopwiths……. A masterclass in improvement. Many thanks.
Stephen.
-
... I used micromesh to polish the transparencies. After reading of others using it a lot to polish canopies and paintwork on car models I bought some and I'm glad I did! It starts at 3200 grit and goes all the way to 12,000. I just used each sheet in turn, leaving the result you see.....
Thanks Ian for sharing this technique, I will indeed give it a try!
Antonio
-
Thanks Juan and Stephen, there's a long way to go yet though.....
I spent 5 hours today looking through pics, measuring, and marking out the strut locations. I started with the upper wings, laying them on the plans and marking them, then I transferred those measurements to the lower wings. The locations didn't match the walkway positions I'd already added which meant either I would have struts that weren't vertical, or the wing walkways wouldn't be in the right place relative to the struts! After a lot more comparing and thinking, I realised that the fuselage for the sharp-nosed Veh is narrower that that of the blunt-nosed version, which is what the plans are for. Since I had marked up the lower wing walkways from these same plans it meant that they were slightly off. I decided the easiest way out was to mark the lower wing strut positions in the right place by lining up the correct positions with the upper wing, and add 0.5mm strips of plastic card to the inner edge of each lower wing to push it out a little and straighten the struts.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/655/32181305696_15319feda7_k.jpg)
A lot of time and thought but well worth the effort, wonky struts just won't work!
Ian
-
Although I've been quiet for the last week, I have been busy. There's just not much point in posting pics when all I've been doing is cleaning up the joints. This last week has seen a succession of prime, fill, and sand, repeat...more than a couple of times! I finally reached the point where I was happy and got some CDL colour on her over the last couple of days. I have deliberately left the colour a little uneven as I don't want a uniform "painted" look to the linen surfaces.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/339/32373148885_8c4cba2807_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/383/31530473254_23fada710a_k.jpg)
There's a little touching up needed around the windows and door but not too much as the framework for the windows will cover most of it. The nose section forward of the side windows will be aluminium so that's not an issue either. The next step will be to get the wing walkways painted: wood for the walkways and aluminium under the engines. I'll do the nose and engine bearers at the same time and will start on that tomorrow.
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Taking shape beautifully Ian.
Des.
-
You have been putting a lot of work into this build , she is shaping up lovely so far . Your efforts have paid off excellent .
Terri
-
Great, very impressive, which effort you put into this kit. Shapes up very nice.
Chapeau,
Manni
-
This one is really looking great Ian! Has anyone mentioned the effort you are putting in is really paying off :-X Seriously the extras and detailing are awesome!
RAGIII
-
Very impressive modelling indeed. When the paint is added the improvements really begin to show - and it makes all the time and effort really worthwhile.
Stephen.
-
I think the technical term is WOW
-
Thanks everyone, your feedback is much appreciated!
Not much to report for this week's work as it took 3 or 4 attempts to get the woodwork right and of course, after each failed attempt I had to repaint and wait for it to dry before going any further! However, it is now done, although apparently my masking skills could use a little improvement!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/781/32405307596_176f867823_k.jpg)
I'll leave that to harden properly before masking for the aluminium areas under the engines, the nose, and the tops of the engine bearers. So due to work schedules, it will be midweek before any further progress is made.
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Nearly missed this. Great work as usual - a little bit of touching in will not matter - you will be the only person to know!
Stephen.
-
Very nice work getting the woodwork painted, a very intricate and fiddly job especially in 1:72 scale.
Des.
-
Thanks Stephen, Des.
I got the aluminium done over the last couple of days and I'm pleased with how it's turned out. I wasn't sure exactly where the demarcation line was between the panels and the fabric, so I took a best guess based on the 2 or 3 pics in the datafile special that show what look like rivet lines.
Unfortunately, after all the trouble I had getting the woodwork right, the masking removed a couple of edges on one wing so I've had to carefully touch those in. They still need a coat of clear orange which should help to hide them, and if they're still too visible, a little dirt may come in handy!
So here are the lower wings, engine bearers, and cockpit section with just a little touching up to do.....
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/602/31695564373_6c3c79f43a_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/368/31695565413_bb09cd631a_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/440/32355046162_ad26faebb6_k.jpg)
The mechanics access panels may also need a little tidying up with a scriber. I think I should have just scribed them instead of trying to cut them out and fit panels separately.
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Another excellent update! Looking terrific.
RAGIII
-
Ilya is taking shape - I`m glad that you haven`t abandoned this project cause it`s a joy to follow your work!
-
Coming along very smartly Ian
-
Looking really good Ian, I like the 'drivers' compartment.
Des.
-
Really looking good Ian. This will be truly impressive when finished.
Stephen.
-
Keep plodding on Ian. Really looking the part.
Regards, Steve
-
Great looking build, looking forward to your next update.
-
Thanks for the positive comments everyone, this is going to be a long slog, and they help remind me it's all worth it!
It seems that most of the time I spend at the bench on this one is spent trying to figure what the best order of construction is. I'll decide to do a particular area next, then look again next time I sit down, and decide it would be better to do something else! The result this time is that the windows have been fitted. They were cut from 0.010" clear sheet using a scalpel and sharp scissors. The pairs of windows next to the pilot are one piece, scored with the scalpel, then bent to the correct angle to fit. Once I'd got them the right size and made sure they fitted ok, I added ordinary glue to the window opening with a toothpick and dropped them into place. Once the glue dried, I sealed any small gaps with Mr Dissolved Putty. I also decided I liked the look of it with the front windows open, so they'll be left off for now and installed near the end.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/408/32494250651_ef31a44001_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/752/32494252221_58a9f557e7_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/592/32494254161_d07874bf12_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/645/31804764773_109a0b2253_k.jpg)
The round roof windows have also been added since the pics. I now have to decide how to do the frames on the side windows. I'm leaning towards printing up decals and using those as I don't think I could cut .005" sheet accurately enough 4 times for it to look right, and I'm not sure I could get it stuck cleanly and firmly in place even if I could! Oh, and don't worry about the ugly double scribing at the bottom of the engineers access panel - they were rescribed using the wing as a guide, so the bottom part won't show as it's hidden by the wing when fitted!
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Looks great with the windows fitted Ian, you did an excellent job.
Des.
-
Thanks Des,
The side window frames have now been masked and painted, and the nose frames added with strips of painted decal paper. I think they're a little thick, but they're about as thin as I can get them so they'll have to do.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/509/32731651125_1b9299f581_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/316/32731648975_941ef38aa7_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/540/31888404004_861028ad5a_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/356/32731644435_7ff1e1880c_k.jpg)
I have also now painted the national insignia as I wanted them done before adding the wings and making everything much more fragile!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/689/32731642315_3ad4f60320_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/669/32731652795_6b2fe31d77_k.jpg)
The blue is Tamiya Sky Blue, I think it works quite well! I should have masked the red areas on the roundels when I srayed the blue though, as the red is now much darker than the fuselage, which was all masked off and had a white base coat instead of blue overspray as was the case on the wings. Lesson learned!
There's a little touching up needed on the wing roundels, and some clean up of a little overspray (more careless spraying on my part), but I'm very happy with how the fuselage pennants have turned out. I used clear plastic masking sheet for the roundels and I won't use it again. It's very stiff and won't conform to the surface well, or stick down properly. Next time I'll just use basic masking tape.
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
The windows turned out great! Lovely work on the markings!
RAGIII
-
Thanks Rick!
I wasn't quite sure whether or not they were up to standard and were centred properly, but after a little careful touching up today I think they'll be ok...tomorrow I think I'll start on adding a little wear and tear to the the fuselage....
Ian
-
That giant still deeply impresses me. It looks very well with the window frames on (I can't see any too thick). And the national insignias really look great as well.
Borsos
-
Thanks Borsos!
I have added a little texture to the fuselage with pastels, just enough to break up the single colour without being obvious, and give it a faint dirty look. I'm happy with it.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/517/32785351076_01d5ff623f_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/599/32011861653_49e747277f_k.jpg)
That marks the end of the "easy" stuff.........
I decided to do the fuel tanks next. I will build them, attach them to the cabane strut side panels, then fit them as a unit to the fuselage. Then I'll rig them and the centre section before moving on to the next step. I started off by marking the positions then making a template to drill holes for mounting pins. I'll pin the tanks to the panels with .010" brass rod to give them a little more strength and ensure they are positioned correctly.
Here they are on a dry fit. I think the rear may be a tad too low to allow for the cross bracing, so I'll check that tomorrow.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2352/31983350254_2fdecb6645_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2892/32011863593_b5c271b639_k.jpg)
If they need adjusting I'll do that then start on the detailing. Fillers have already been added, I need to add mounting straps and braces, vents, and some rudimentary fuel level guages (at least that's what I think they are!)
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Ian,
Fantastic works my old friend. Keep up the outstanding progress.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Outstanding progress Ian! This is continuing to be a great build of a unique subject!
RAGIII
-
I really like the way the pastels gave variation to the colour. I am going to have to try that.
Jamie
-
Thanks for the feedback gents, much appreciated!
I did a little more on the fuel tanks today, but they needed a little touching up so I've had to put them down until that dries.
I used .010" brass rod for the vents and level indicators (calling them gauges is perhaps being a little optimistic!). they have been fitted and painted as necessary. When the touch up on the brass is dry I'll dirty them up a little and attach them to the side pieces. Then I can attach the whole lot to the fuselage and rig it all.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3760/32824194106_c5dfc51efd_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2862/32484227450_eb7e7beb2c_k.jpg)
I also started to take a more detailed look at the rigging, and creating a plan for it. Harry Woodman provides some very useful diagrams in his Datafile special, but these are for the later blunt nosed Veh. The sharp nosed one had some extra wires (MORE? Really?) in the inner bays. There were two more double wires, one from the top and one from the bottom of the inner engine struts to the bottom of the cabane struts (both front and rear), and the inner two bays had single cross bracing wires on the lower halves for and aft, presumably to aid the engineer if he needed to clamber out and fix the engines in flight. I've marked the extra wires on the diagram....
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3704/32050799503_11a9f39f6c_k.jpg)
If i'm going to do all that, I might as well do it correctly!
Ian
-
Wow, Ian, what a magnificient build! Great job.
Cheers
Ondra
-
Continuing to be awesome Ian! Looking forward to the rigging!
RAGIII
-
I'm glad someone is Rick!
Ian
-
Coming along really well Ian, great job on the fuel tanks.
Des.
-
Beautiful work Ian, love what you have done so far.
-
As always Ian , enjoy following your builds and this is turning out wonderful so far :)
Terri
-
Ian, superb build. Very,very nice. I am looking forward to the rigging. Top.
Manni
-
Thanks everyone, Terri - good to see you're still here, albeit a little more in the background!
I added all the support wires to the tanks using 1.5lb monofilament...
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3670/32765503571_301278b4ab_k.jpg)
(yes, it is there!) then attached them to the side panels.
After that there was only one thing to do...attach the assemblies to the fuselage and finish them off. That meant adding the support braces under the tanks, attaching the support wires, and rigging the centre section. For that I used 2lb mono as it is a little thicker. The rigging on the real thing consisted of single wires, and double/triple wires taped to batons to stop any broken wires fouling the props. I will use these 2 sizes of mono, plus thin strip for the larger 3 wire assemblies, to give a better sense of the variation in the rigging.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2919/32509159280_fbdd043fb4_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2194/32765500161_c4f432970d_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/457/32509157610_9c0e4dc27f_k.jpg)
Unfortunately there's more touching up to do. I clamped some scrap plastic against the sides while attaching the cabane panels, to keep them vertical and aligned with the fuselage, I then used a little PlasticWeld and some must have crept under the scrap. When I removed them some of the paint came away too....Other than that I'm pretty happy with how it's coming on!
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Don't know how on earth I missed this one, Ian. Fantastic progress! I need to make one of those and display it next to my Staaken!!!!!!
Cool. 8)
Dan
-
Superb modeling at this scale (or any other, but specially 1/72). Looking forward to your progress.
-
Continues to impress. Outstanding
-
Ian,
The fuel tanks and rigging look outstanding in place! Excellent update!
RAGIII
-
Thanks folks!
Not much to show this time around but I have been busy...drilling holes! All the rigging holes have now been done (I think!) and for the sadists out there here's the count:
Lower wings: 32 each side
Upper wings: 42 each side
Centre section and fuel tanks: 20
Fuselage: 8
Horizontal stabiliser: 8 each side
Elevators: 7 each
Ailerons: 9 each
Rudder: 8
A total so far of 232 holes at a cost of 3 drill bits killed in action! A pretty good rate! (The 10 additional holes in the fuselage for the control cables were done much earlier and haven't been included in this count!)
That of course does not include all the holes I'll have to drill in the struts and undercarriage when I make them........
I feel a beer coming on!
See you all later.....
Ian
-
Ian,
Much the same as the "Fee" but in this case more! I remember it well and, like you, invoked the universal pilot's solution to temper the experience once done, an ice cold one! Enjoy it, it's certainly been earned!
Cheers,
Lance
-
This is really going well - and at speed too. It would have taken me many times longer to have drilled all of those holes.
Stephen.
-
A total so far of 232 holes at a cost of 3 drill bits killed in action! A pretty good rate! (The 10 additional holes in the fuselage for the control cables were done much earlier and haven't been included in this count!)
That of course does not include all the holes I'll have to drill in the struts and undercarriage when I make them........
I feel a beer coming on!
See you all later.....
Ian
The beer is really well deserved! And a rate of 232 holes to 3 broken bits is a dream, I won't ever be able to reach that...
Borsos
-
Thanks Borsos! I could never have achieved that rate with the drills I used to use, plus they never really drilled a hole, merely seemed to screw themselves into the plastic! I found these which are much more durable and don't break nearly as easily...
https://drillsandcutters.com/30mm-hss-jobber-length-drill-bit/
I also had an "aaargh!" moment when looking at the pics to sort the rigging out. All the plans, as I said, are for the blunt nosed, later Veh, and it was those I had been using. Upon more careful analysis, I noticed that the upper wing attachment was different on the earlier sharp-nosed Veh. You will notice from previous pics that I have squared off the rear of the centre section, and the wings butt-join against it to give a squared off rear edge.This is wrong! The earlier wings joined the cabane framework further inboard. There is no centre section frame butting against the wing, and the wing overlap at the rear is slanted. Hopefully the pics will show you what I mean a little better.....
Here is the extra piece of plastic I added to the rear inner wing edge...
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/477/32163095443_fd45db0368_k.jpg)
This gives the overlap I need, and the slant to the inner edge. I then filled down the rear edge of the centre section, but only that part of it directly behind the opening as there was simply a shaped piece of wood between the rear wing spars, where the wings were bolted on......
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3903/32163097033_4f2371add3_k.jpg)
This is what it looks like now. You'll see the new wing joint is level with the front inner edge of the fillet I just added, not where the kit wings actually join the centre section (that is where the later wings joined!).... A dry fit to see that it all works.....
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2614/32133886094_7dbfeb8629_k.jpg)
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
232 holes!! But, things are looking good! Nice work on the upper wing.
Steve
-
Great catch and correction on the wing mounting! Looking better with each update. Very impressive ! 232 holes.... Probably one of the reasons I build mostly fighter types ::)
RAGIII
-
Thanks Steve, RB, and Rick - still plugging on with this one!
Having decided that the earlier effort was not up to par and a little oversized, I decided to remake the engines. So having now received the plastic stock I needed (4mm half round and 2.5 x 3.2mm rod) I have made a start. I cut the stock to the lengths needed (the rod is 0.5mm shorter than the half-round) and glued them together, making sure that one end was flush, and that the gap either side was equal. I then added Perfect Plastic Putty to the sides and when dry, sanded it down to give me the slight slope I needed on each side of the upper crankcases .
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2941/32797437250_3ac8ddaddb_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3832/33137933186_49f6311d4f_k.jpg)
The front and rear extensions for the prop shaft and rear accessory drive were added from 0.020" stock sheet, punched out with my 2mm punch.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2870/33137934986_bfcad28caa_k.jpg)
I will take the edges off those when they're dry, just to make them look a little more like cast items, not something that was stuck on later. I now need to add the engine mounts, the flange around the crankcase joints, and the strengthening fillets at either end........
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Fantastic start on the new engines. I am looking forward to your next step in the improvements!
RAGIII
-
Engines can be a pain to get right - 4 means an even bigger pain! You are doing extremely well with these so far - interesting to see how another modeller uses different ideas. Am following with great interest…
Stephen.
-
Having done a superb but nevertheless laborious and long-lasting job on the wings and the fuselage correcting the flaws of the kit and bringing everything together would lead many modellers to the point to say: Well that's it, I'll leave it as it is. It honours your skills not to rest on what's offered but to go on with that huge work and to improve the engines as well. I'd better say making four engines from scratch... hats off for that!
I go on following this build with huge interest and respect.
Borsos
-
Rick, Stephen, Borsos - many thanks, the feedback certainly helps keep this one going!
Not much of an update this time but I thought I'd at least let you all know I'm still plugging away at it! I added the mounting points using 1.5mm channel. I know they're not really accurate, the sides should be sloped upwards towards the top of the crankcases, but a) unless you compare to a pic you won't know, and b) it's just too damn fiddly to add the small extra pieces. I think it will look better as it is rather than attempting to be a little more accurate and having joints and slightly wonky sides on the mounts! I have also added some of the strengthening fillets at the front and rear of the crankcases - again, just an attempt at getting a little more detail without ruining it by trying to be 100% accurate. Most of the front and rear of the crankcases will be hidden by either the front fairings or the radiators anyway.....
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2937/33078949742_34740b6db1_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/750/32852446100_b7ccadd580_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2838/33078948112_c71fc59872_k.jpg)
Maybe a coat of paint next, then take another look at the cylinders.....
Ian
-
Those should do the trick just nicely Ian , looking forward on the next up-date :)
Terri
-
Coming along quite nicely, great to see your progress.
-
Continuing to look great Ian!
RAGIII
-
You are doing a great job with the engines Ian, looking forward to seeing the cylinders fitted.
Des.
-
Thanks everyone! I must admit it would be a lot easier without the guesswork. I just can't find pics of these early Argus 6 cylinder engines with the flat underside to the crankcase, so I'm basing most of it on pics of the 4 cylinder engines which appear to have been very similar in layout.
I got a few more hours in this afternoon, most of it trying to work out what needs to go where, and what size stock I should use. I did get the magnetos done, using HO scale 4 x 6 (1.09 x 1.68mm) rod and fitted them to one of the blocks, along with the PE gear that I have from the Miniworld Scarff ring, so that I could then gauge the sizes needed for the other gears. I think I'm going to use left over PE Vickers gun ends from an Airwaves set I have (Airwaves have to be useful for something surely?) for the other large gear, and just use plastic rod for the mag drives.
Here's how it looks with those bits on...
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3925/33230851096_21f197147f_k.jpg)
Ready for some paint I think, then I can start to think about adding the cylinders........
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Nice! So much difference than what it in the box!
Steve
-
Engines are not the easiest of thing to make - you make it look easy! That is really good - I doubt whether anyone knows any better than you so why worry?
Stephen.
-
Thanks Steve and Stephen,
I'm not really worrying, I just want them looking the part! I also think I'll skip the extra details and just use the one gear wheel, I think it adds enough and gives the look I'm after...
Here is where I am now, with the cylinders and the gear wheels added..
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/778/32525360854_63d3ebdd77_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/661/32554152333_4640e24f13_k.jpg)
I now need to start adding the induction and cooling pipework....
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Cool stuff!
-
Those engines are coming alive (incredible at this scale). Look forward to your progress.
-
Excellent engines Ian. I would have scratch built the whole thing I think - the work you are doing you might just as well!
Stephen.
-
Many thanks for the feedback!
I had another day to work on this today due to the airport being covered in ice, so I worked on the plumbing. First, the return plumbing for the cooling system...made from some scrap copper wire (I have no idea of the size I'm afraid, but it looks right!)....
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3760/33260772821_93ed5d530e_k.jpg)
and all done....
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/662/32545593314_d041faa0b4_k.jpg)
I then decided to do the inlet manifolds. For these I used .020" brass rod. Aluminium would have been nicer but I didn't have any in stock, so I'll just have to paint it!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3922/33005511160_1e4a69dfef_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3870/32545594704_dc59cb32eb_k.jpg)
I'm happy with that!
The biggest problem now is going to be adding more detail without breaking off what is already there, so I may mount the engines on the wing for the next steps...not sure yet, but it's a definite option.....
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
The engines are looking superb Ian, looking forward to seeing them mounted on the wing.
Des.
-
Thanks Des!
I'm a little disappointed in myself for not checking the engine mounts before painting them. All the mounts are the same, but the inner engines sit slightly further forward, so that meant I had to add a small piece of plastic card to the front of 4 of the mounts, then sand them down to a wedge shape....
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3668/33402574026_d7e3815c6e_k.jpg)
This will allow the mounts to fit the wing in the same place, but for the engines to sit further forward on the mounts. They are now in the process of being painted, and once done, I will start to attach the engines to the wing. I'll do that one engine at a time, starting on the right, so that I have easy access to the left side of each engine in turn to add the push rods and other final details without having to worry about actually handling the engines and breaking bits off. The wings will be attached to the fuselage only after the engines are done.
At least that's the plan......
Ian
-
Thanks Des!
I'm a little disappointed in myself for not checking the engine mounts before painting them. All the mounts are the same, but the inner engines sit slightly further forward, so that meant I had to add a small piece of plastic card to the front of 4 of the mounts, then sand them down to a wedge shape....
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3668/33402574026_d7e3815c6e_k.jpg)
This will allow the mounts to fit the wing in the same place, but for the engines to sit further forward on the mounts. They are now in the process of being painted, and once done, I will start to attach the engines to the wing. I'll do that one engine at a time, starting on the right, so that I have easy access to the left side of each engine in turn to add the push rods and other final details without having to worry about actually handling the engines and breaking bits off. The wings will be attached to the fuselage only after the engines are done.
At least that's the plan......
Ian
…..and the best laid plans of mice and men……..
Wishing you the best of luck Ian. Will be following with interest when I get back from my next trip.
Stephen.
-
Great job on the engines Ian, they really came together nicely. From what I see on the News Channel you will probably get more then one day off, fairly serious weather down your way! Enjoy the break and keep those updates coming!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Thanks Lance,
Here on Cape Cod we pretty much dodged the bullet. Nothing but some rain and high winds for us, so mostly a non-event!
Ian
-
Ian,
Perhaps a little off topic, where on Cape Cod are you? I have many fond memories of flying into Otis AFB, Falmouth and vicinity long ago. Beautiful country and great times!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Lance, I'm not far from either. I live in Hyannis and fly out of there to Nantucket for a small regional airline. It is indeed a beautiful area!
Ian
-
Lance, I'm not far from either. I live in Hyannis and fly out of there to Nantucket for a small regional airline. It is indeed a beautiful area!
Ian
Nice......... Hard to beat that combination!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Evening all!
I got the engine mounts finished and attached this morning, then started on the engines. I did (of course) change my plan, when I realised after a dry fit that there is plenty of room between the engines and they could all be mounted at the same time with no worries.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/639/33081463680_3f472715a6_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2821/33081464200_c27a872920_k.jpg)
That first pic also shows the difference in position between the inner and outer engines.
Of course I couldn't resist a dry run with the wings on to make sure it all looked good...
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3922/33081462630_cec4ee391f_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3892/33308808252_2e5716625a_k.jpg)
Before I finally attached the engines, I added an oily black wash to the crankcases and under the engines to dirty them up just a little.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/752/33308806842_aa1ba0d590_k.jpg)
After all that was done to my satisfaction, I made a start on the next step....the push rods! It took over 90 minutes to make and fit them on one engine - hopefully the rest will go a little quicker now I know what is involved....
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/580/33081464640_728f52b336_k.jpg)
I will probably add a touch of thin CA to the joints with the cylinder tops just to make sure I don't knock them all off when I attach the rest of the cooling system,
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Wow! That looks fantastic!
Steve
-
Really coming together beautifully.
-
Beautiful idea to use copper wire and brass rod for the plumbing system on the engine, I'll take the idea for my Albatros DIII.
Antonio
-
Superb skill.
The engines look terrific.
Manni
-
Great modelling, Ian. Though not commenting frequently I watch this with great interest!
-
Fantastic engine work... times 4.
RAGIII
-
Thanks everyone, your comments are very much appreciated!
Another day spent on the Argus production line today, this time fitting the ignition systems. I used .4mm aluminium tube and .010" brass rod bent into little "S" shapes for the leads. I will NOT be adding the plugs and wires! :o
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2816/33368874311_9bbcdfe154_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3669/33368873261_174011fa3c_k.jpg)
That leaves just the carbs to make, and the exhausts, both to be added now, and the upper half of the coolant system, which I may or may not leave until the wings are together to be sure that the clearances are ok. I may just add the coolant lines then clip them to length later....
I also need to add the Bowden cables for the tachometers, which ran along the upper wing surface into the fuselage.
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Progress is coming along well , really like how the engines are shaping up with the added detail .
Terri
-
Awesome update on the engines! Continuing to be an education in adding detail in a small scale!
RAGIII
-
Thanks Terri, Rick - much appreciated!
The last couple of days have been spent getting the carbs done. I used .030" x .040" rod for the centre piece, 0.4mm aluminium tube for the trumpets with tiny pieces of .040" plastic rod for the float chambers, and .020" brass rod for the upper mounts. They are now finished and attached!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3715/33495466656_867e52db93_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2907/33379400062_b85995aff0_k.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3847/33536536955_5663d1022e_k.jpg)
I'm calling those finished!
I have also painted some thin copper wire to use as the Bowden cables and those will be fitted tomorrow.
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Sorry Ian I have been away and missed some of this. This is looking terrific - those engines are great. This is going to be more scratch build than kit when finished methinks!
Stephen.
-
Sorry Ian I have been away and missed some of this. This is looking terrific - those engines are great. This is going to be more scratch build than kit when finished methinks!
Stephen.
I agree with Stephen!
RAGIII
-
I finished repainting the national insignia today, and although I'm much happier with the colours (the blue is Modelmaster Acryl Blue Angels blue) my masking is apparently not up to par.....some touching in to do!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3947/33747499295_e1d9f29ea6_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3951/32934326863_a5958cd3c1_b.jpg)
A huge improvement though, the more I looked at the pale blue the more I didn't like it!
Ian
-
Hi Ian, good job as usual.
I agree with you in appreciating the blue tone, the touch up is not a big effort I think...
I love following your build log!
Antonio
-
Ian,
The new blue shade looks great! I am sure you will accomplish the touch up with no issues!
RAGIII
-
Thanks Rick...
I was a little worried, and was prepared to sand it all off and start again, mainly because I didn't know whether the circles would be concentric after touching in parts of the edges. It turned out ok though and I think I'll leave it as is!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3791/33635231081_de0380f807_b.jpg)
Ian
-
It looks excellent to my eyes!
RAGIII
-
Ian if it is any help I paint the roundels on my models and believe me what you have done is very good indeed. They are extremely tricky things to do and I think that it is unlikely that you could improve much on those. My advice - leave them while you are winning!
Stephen.
-
Awesome Ian, truly impressed by you have done thus far.
-
Well, folks...as promised, the beast is back!
Before I attach the lower wings there are still a couple of things that need doing. The first of those was tackled today.
Exhausts. 24 of them. I bought some Albion Alloys aluminium tube of 0.6mm od and 0.4mm id specifically for this job. All I had to do was find a way to cut it into 4mm lengths, with one end cut at an angle....and keep them all the same!
After thinking a while, I remembered Des' tip for cutting lengths of rod so I decided to make a little jig. I first marked a drill bit with tape so I knew how deep to drill....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4421/36116349893_d4e4027e5c_c.jpg)
Then I found a piece of scrap suitable for the jig and drilled the hole. The angle I needed was marked with a permanent marker, and the corner of the piece of scrap was carefully sanded back to the mark....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4360/36784613981_7119a37e2d_c.jpg)
Insert tube, cut with a PE saw, and see if it works......
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4436/36784616471_711abc52f8_c.jpg)
After a bit of fine tuning, and making sure the tube was fully inserted every time, it was actually a fairly quick process once I got going.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4392/36784615781_7207765b28_c.jpg)
24 exhausts! Not all absolutely identical, but I sorted out the longest and the shortest and put them together so the differences won't show once they're all mounted.
After that I realised that the inner engines had been mounted slightly too far back, so those were removed and positioned correctly. They have to be spot on as the middle pair of exhausts bracket the struts, and the exhausts are longer than the gap between the engine and the struts so if it's wrong, the exhausts won't fit, they'll hit the strut!
Here's hoping it's now correct.
The next task is to finish the cooling systems, which means fabricating the 4 radiators (the ones I made earlier are too small so I'll make new ones), and the reservoir tanks and fittings.
See you soon!
Ian
-
You are moving along very well with this build Ian, you did a great job with the exhaust pipes.
Des.
-
Nice work on the exhaust Ian! Great to see this one back on the bench!
RAGIII
-
Thanks Des and Rick for the comments. I spent most of today going crosseyed - the exhausts were fitted!
I made up a simple little jig to keep them level and held that in place with a piece of blu-tack while I attached each one. The trickiest part was actually trying to ensure that the cutouts at the ends were pointing the same way!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4405/36130527804_37c767a2fd_c.jpg)
One done...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/36569068040_70efc352b5_c.jpg)
I left each one for about 30 minutes before sliding the jig out and starting the next one, which gave my eyes a bit of a rest too!
Two down...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4407/36130525474_5faf373c18_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4429/36130530624_05c92927e9_c.jpg)
I'm pretty happy with that, so on to the second wing....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4366/36569071060_cff1fa04b7_c.jpg)
All done! I want to give each of them a little shot of thin CA to ensure they're secure before trying to paint them, but my bottle has thickened up too much so I need to go and get some more.
The last job for today was cutting some blanks for the radiators out of 1mm sheet.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4438/36156885403_86c01b82f7_c.jpg)
Now I just need to figure out what I'm going to do about getting a decent radiator "look" to them...cladding with brass rod is one option but is very tedious....
Any suggestions?
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
The exhaust turned out beautifully! All four engines are awesome!
RAGIII
-
That is a great jig!
Richard
-
Blimey, Ian, those engines are mighty impressive. What a fascinating build this is.
Best wishes
Nigel
-
Lovely jig Ian. I always think that the simpler ones are the best. The engines look super - what an improvement on the kit!
This si going to be one of those builds to remember - more scratch than kit!
Stephen. (von Jigmeister)
-
The radiators were causing a little angst. Namely, how to attach the brass rod to the plastic cores. I went out this morning and bought a couple of items to try. the first was a normal glue which turned out to be rubber based and totally useless. the second was this
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4371/36942791472_48e0c5ee8d_c.jpg)
Very thin double sided plastic sheet. I think it may work! It allows me to attach the brass rod and still be able to adjust it slightly to get everything straight.
Here's the first attempt, not bad, but could be improved...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/36971487041_6a07ec4ce2_c.jpg)
Actually , I have only just noticed the gaps from looking at the pic, they are not really visible by eye. Hopefully they will stay in place, particularly the edge pieces. I'll leave it a day or two and see how well they have stuck before moving on.
Ian
-
Ian, do you think that the gaps will be visible when the radiators are mounted on the model? My own opinion would be to see what they look like from a short distance first before spending a huge amount of time trying to get a perfect fit.
Stephen.
-
Maybe you can go the easier way and scribe them on a sheet and copy them in resin. Stephen is right, think if the effort is worth it ;)
Great work all around. I thoroughly enjoy your build and I`m glad that you got back to it.
-
I am sure whatever you decide will look great! waiting for your next update as always!
RAGIII
-
I decided to try a suggestion from another forum and solder the ends to ensure they all stayed put, and then realised I know absolutely nothing about soldering. I tried again and again to get some solder to stick to the tops of the brass rods, but all that stuck was little blobs here and there.....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4365/37192019235_8153834176_c.jpg)
Not very pretty! Then I looked at the other end.....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4419/37192018805_149c71a825_c.jpg)
Oh drat...( not quite the exact words, but you get the idea). It's warped!
So that was left and I went for a pint (or 3).
Yesterday I removed all the brass rods and started to clean up them and straighten them (again). I made another core, then went for another pint. (or 2)
Finally, today I had another shot. I made sure the rods were straight, aligned them all, and then dropped the wrapped core onto them. A few minor adjustments, repeat for the other side, and we have this....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4341/36378065353_6168cd3572_c.jpg)
Much better! Now, how to ensure they all stay put...without solder!
Same idea, different medium - CA gel!
This was applied fairly generously to the ends, and will be left until tomorrow before I attempt to even up the rods and finish it off....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4391/36378069123_9840d4b3c0_c.jpg)
I'm happy with that, and will be even happier if it works and I can file the ends level! the next set of brass rods will be cut fractionally shorter to (hopefully) negate the need for the filing!
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
(Off for a pint!)
-
Ian,
So that was left and I went for a pint (or 3).
"Yesterday I removed all the brass rods and started to clean up them and straighten them (again). I made another core, then went for another pint. (or 2) "
Stop it, I'm laughing so hard my Pacemaker/Defib might activate! Typical Pilot, something goes well, go for a beer; something goes poorly, go for two!! (I can say that as a retired Airframe Driver!)
Seriously, don't give up on soldering, I just finally got it to work for me for the first time........ and in the meantime nice fix with the CA.
Cheers,
Lance
-
I've had a few that drove me to a pint or several! I had several "differences of opinion" with my Eduard Sopwith Pup, but we did get there eventually!
-
Ian, again I am sure you will persevere! As for the Pints, I cant Model at all without a few beers to calm my hands ::)
RAGIII
-
Well, nearly 3 months on and another build done, and I'm back on this one again. Every once in a while I need to actually finish something, so this may not be the last installment on this build!
Whilst working on the radiators I paid a little more attention to trying to work out how they were mounted. That resulted in the realisation that the lower end was attached to the engine mounts - not possible with the way they were on the model! They should extend further aft and have a curved upper rear edge, as confirmed by photos. So, that left only one option, remove the engines and mounts, make new mounts, and refit it all.
I managed to remove everything without any damage - a feat in itself!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4518/38755197481_34c3fef53c_c.jpg)
I then used the existing mounts to mark out the basics for a template, which I tweaked as necessary, and used that to mark out the replacements.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4533/38038775394_b2e756eb6d_c.jpg)
Repeat, cut out, sand, group together, sand to get them all the same (it sounds easy when you say it quickly!), repeat...etc...
and finally I had 8 new mounts as identical as I could possibly get them....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4578/38755194441_aab123a88a_c.jpg)
I now need to file off part of the top at the front of 4 of them to let in a small square section rod to extend the top for the inner engines which were mounted slightly further forward..... then they need to be painted and refitted and I'll be back to where I left it 3 months ago!
Ian
-
Great to see you back on this build Ian, looking forward to seeing more updates.
Des.
-
Thanks Des! Unfortunately one of the drawbacks of letting a build sit for a while (apart from forgetting all the details you'd worked out..) is that sometimes when you come back to it, some areas jump out at you as "below standard" when you'd thought they were ok! (At least for me, and particularly with this build!). Consequently the first few posts are going to deal mainly with upgrading what I'd already done. I few things - apart from the engine bearers, need attention. The most serious was the lower wing rear mounting pin. The wings on the Muromets don't have backstagger, they are a rectangular section, but mounted at such an angle that they look to be staggered backwards. They didn't look quite right when I dry fitted them so I measured everything again and found that the rear pin for the lower wing was 1mm too high, so the angle of the lower wing was wrong. I thought about it for a while and decided a) it had to be corrected, and b) I couldn't pull the pin out for fear of disturbing detail inside the fuselage. So I bit the bullet and snipped the ends off! I redrilled immediately below the pin and as luck would have it, a .020" brass rod slipped easily right through the fuselage. It's slightly narrower than the original pin but should work ok.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4519/23907407037_4f3b35da01_c.jpg)
You can just see on that pic the snipped end of the original pin. You can also see the second issue I had - the terrible fit of the mechanics access panel to the wing! I applied PPP to both sides and will rescribe the panels later! The main cabin door also needed attention so PPP was also applied there.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4553/23907404737_6ffea5fc73_c.jpg)
The underside has been giving me problems for a while due to the method I used to fit it (inlaying the floor instead of butting it up against the fuselage sides from underneath). This keeps resulting in the joint popping apart as it's handled. I think the best solution here is to add a sheet of .005" card to cover the whole underside.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4586/23907406077_f8a8f09390_c.jpg)
Finally today, as I was thinking about painting the engine bearers, I decided I would get the props ready for painting too, and then also decided that since I will be needing the struts soon, I might as well get those done. So I spent a couple of hours cutting them (all 24 of them!) from .020" x .060" rod, then paring the corners to round them off. That's all done, fortunately the struts are very simple staright ones, so all that needs doing now is adding the pins and painting them...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4540/37885270845_585f6fd5e5_c.jpg)
Ian
-
Way to persevere. This model looks like a nightmare. Great ugly beast of an aircraft like that deserves to be modeled though. I hope you keep going. I'm watching closely.
-
Good to see this is back Ian. I'll bet you enjoyed making thise struts!
Stephen.
-
Like the others I am glad to see you back on this one. It looks like you are sorting out all of the small issues you have discovered since the Sidelining of this build. I am looking forward to your next update!
RAGIII
-
Stephen, I think you, and everyone else here, know exactly how much I "enjoyed" making the struts! :o
Anyway, not much progress to speak of, but a quick update anyway. The struts are finished! I cut a slot in each end of all 24 of the little s*** and inserted a piece of .010" brass wire, secured with CA. A quick dab of PPP over the top and a sand down should leave no trace of the incision. Paint will, of course, show whether I am correct in that assumption!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4533/37988221455_01451e98e3_c.jpg)
I have also completed the corrections to the underside. A sheet of .010" card (I decided against the .005" as I could see work being needed to level off areas that saw a little too much glue and melted it...) was stuck on after cutting out the square for the bomb aimer's window, After leaving it to dry for a day, it was trimmed to shape and any loose edges treated with PlasticWeld. It was left another day before I added a skim of PPP and cleaned it all up.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4534/23990203277_b004f83838_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4530/38874713021_163e00566e_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4534/38874709601_4e80dcd040_c.jpg)
I think that's ready to be masked off and painted now so Friday should see an airbrush session on that and the start of all the wooden bits.
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
Hi Ian, your dedication is paying off. :D
-
You are going way above and beyond to make this kit right! Your results will be worth the effort!
RAGIII
-
That's an impressive amout of work on a real beast. You are doing a great job, Ian. It will look awesome once completed.
Borsos
-
Juan, Rick, Borsos, thanks for the comments! To be honest the wings could probably be better too, but I'm NOT going to redo all that work, it will have to stay as it is - lesson learned for next time!
I got a good session in with the airbrush yesterday, and today decided that some of it needed a little extra work, so the underside of the nose was done again. I'm now happy with the fuselage! The red on the banner needs a little touching up, and I obviously need to redo some of the pastel work to blend it all in again, but other than that it's done!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4534/38231940134_1dfe607142_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4737/38061633155_f4317b1bd4_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4599/25076466078_bb7a572d45_c.jpg)
I also got the base coat sprayed on the props, engine mounts, and struts. Tomorrow should see some advance on those.....
Almost back to where I was a month ago!
Ian
-
Looking really good Ian.
Des.
-
Very well done Ian! No evidence of the additions and corrections and all looks beautiful! I am as always, impressed!
RAGIII
-
I'll bet you enjoyed shaping those struts..... This is going to be half kit and half scratch build by the time you finish it, and I know which parts will be the best!
Stephen.
-
Thanks Des, Rick , and Stephen!
A little more done today, and I think by the end it will be 90% scratchbuilt, 10% kit - and the kit parts I've used are so heavily modified they bear no resemblance to the kit parts!
Today was woodwork time. The leather was brushed on and the clear orange sprayed as usual.
Engine bearers, props, and struts all done.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4647/38935598122_ae1816a066_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4581/24107579257_a900292f1e_c.jpg)
That is the good side of the struts, the other side is a little blotchy. I'll take another look tomorrow in decent light and see if they're ok or need redoing.
Ian
-
All of your wood parts look excellent to me! Well done as always!
RAGIII
-
Thanks Rick!
The engine mounts have now been finished off with strips of Bare Metal Foil, and attached to the wings. The next step was the big one, to make sure the engines fitted correctly without the exhausts fouling the struts. That meant the first trial fit of the wings with a couple of struts in place to check the clearance.....and all is well! The props are only slid onto the shafts for clearance checks....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4634/38198413365_21471421cb_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4725/38198414805_a9af5bbf7b_c.jpg)
The extensions on the front of the inner engine mounts were then trimmed back and the starboard engines CA'd in place.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4558/27302191349_f41b241ede_c.jpg)
I'll fit the port ones tomorrow, then I need to finalise the rigging plan before going too much further in case further holes are needed which can't be drilled after attaching the lower wings.....
Thanks for looking in!
Ian
-
I have written before Ian that this model is more you than Maquette! Looking at these pictures I am doubly convinced that I was right. This is going to be a winner when finished as it looks like one in even its partially assembled state.
Stephen.
-
Lined up perfectly and ready to roll! This is continuing to be an absolutely awesome build!
RAGIII
-
Before I got too far along I decided to do a plan for the rigging, and to try out an idea for the bound lines around the engine area.
To explain a little: The rigging wires in the area of the the props were double or triple wires, with a wooden strip added between them. The whole was then bound to form a solid piece which would not result in loose cables fouling the props should they break.
This photo shows what I mean. It is used with the kind permission of Ray Rimmell/Albatros Productions.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4680/39157600411_de78bd63e5_c.jpg)
You will also notice that the wires in one direction go around (or through, depending on which one you're looking at!) other wires - another complication!
Originally I'd thought of simply using thin strips of plastic rod or sheet, but I couldn't think how to get the look right where the wires passed through each other. That led me to thinking in a different direction, but I needed to try it on a dummy run to see if it would actually work. That brings us to the trial...
I put together a couple of pieces of scrap to form a small jig, then attached some "rigging wires". The idea was to use either white glue or Mr Surfacer to fill the gap between the wires. I started with Mr Surfacer, mainly because it's grey so it wouldn't need to be painted afterwards! I have both the 500 and 1000, and decided to go with the heavier 1000. Immediately I could see that it could work, so instead of white glue on the other side of the jig I used the 500.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4646/39127320022_11bdc84bb3_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4643/39157598801_7813477d29_c.jpg)
This is with just one large "blob" added to one end and drawn out with a small brush. The 1000 is certainly easier to apply as the 500 wanted to pull along the wires and I had to drag the ends back down with the brush a couple of times. The key seems to be making sure you have a good sized blob (technical term!) on the brush to start with.
Here's one showing both sides, with a ruler to show the sort of gaps I'm dealing with. There's a slight dip in places but nothing that a second coat shouldn't sort out, and more importantly, it hasn't sagged underneath but has stayed taut between the lines as required, It is also flexible and doesn't crack if I press on the wires.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4634/39127322172_d29726f97c_c.jpg)
This should also enable the wires to be run around each other with no problem. I think that problem has now been solved, so more rigging holes are needed before moving on.
Ian
-
There's no way one wire passes through another one. It would be impossible to tension them properly
What'd probably going on is one wire is bound to another to stop them fretting in use
Richard
-
Great solution to a challenging problem Ian. I used thin decal strips on my Ni.28, it worked and looks the part but is extremely labor intensive and very delicate. I'll be using your Mr. Surfacer method in future if required! 8)
Cheers,
Lance
-
Great solution to a challenging problem Ian. I used thin decal strips on my Ni.28, it worked and looks the part but is extremely labor intensive and very delicate. I'll be using your Mr. Surfacer method in future if required! 8)
Cheers,
Lance
ME TOO! As for wires passing through wires it is easy to pick up the openings in the "Filled" sections. The wires do not actually pass through other wires but through the filling Richard.
RAGIII
-
When I said the wires pass through each other, I meant they pass through the batten that binds them together, and between the wires, not actually through the wire itself. Sorry, bad choice of words!
Ian
-
When I said the wires pass through each other, I meant they pass through the batten that binds them together, and between the wires, not actually through the wire itself. Sorry, bad choice of words!
Ian
OK, that's a lot more sensible
Richard
-
Very clever solution to a difficult problem Ian. Just wish I had thought of this when I made the SSW R1 last year - too late now!
Stephen.