forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: Chris Johnson on April 28, 2012, 11:58:59 PM
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I'm coming up to the point where I need to install a clear acetate viewing port to the inside of the front deck of my Roden S.E.5a. I'm wondering how you fellows glue these items in place, and then mask them for painting. I usually use white glue to attach a clear plastic port and I mask it with a commercial or white glue masking solution. However, acetate is flexible and I'm a little concerned what might happen when I start to peel the masking off.
Cheers,
Chris
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I would paint first and then install said window. Plug the hole, paint, unplug hole, touch up and then apply window with thinned white glue or Gator glue.
Simples!
;) ;)
Von Windowintime
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Like Bob said.
Des.
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..and dip them in Future floor wax ..think its actually called Pledge with Future floor wax. Really makes them crystal clear.
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have you ever seen that window maker stuff? i dont have it in front of me,maybe testors makes it. its in a diamond shaped bottle that sits crooked with the long stem. i have used that stuff to make small view ports. i just stuck the nozzle in the hole and squezed then kinda stretched it across. it looks milky when wet but drys clear and looks damn good. i was surprised how easy it was. i did it on a 1/48 se5 and be2e. just letting you know thgere are options.
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heres the stuff
http://www.testors.com/product/0/8876C/_/Clear_Parts_Cement_Window_Maker
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Here's what I'm up against.
(http://i331.photobucket.com/albums/l474/ChrisJohnson56/FrontDeck.jpg)
I was hoping to assemble the Front Deck and other fuselage pieces before painting the whole thing. The window maker Albatros1234 speaks of would do the trick in that regard. Alternately, I could paint the Front Deck separately, install the acetate port inside it, and then glue it to the fuselage. I'd have to do some filling and touchup after the fact though.
Am I making this more difficult than need be? That's usually the case. :-\
Cheers,
Chris
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How about masking what needs to be masked with a fluid like Maskol and then installing the panel? As you mask the panel, incorporate a small length of thread in the fluid so you have a starting point to unmask it.
Trevor
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I second that. Put the acetate in from underneath then mask it.
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How about masking what needs to be masked with a fluid like Maskol and then installing the panel? As you mask the panel, incorporate a small length of thread in the fluid so you have a starting point to unmask it.
Trevor
I never would've thought about embedding a thread in the masking agent. That's a great idea.
I second that. Put the acetate in from underneath then mask it.
So you fellows don't think that the inherent flexibility in the acetate will cause it to come loose when I pull off the masking?
Cheers,
Chris
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Chris,
I wouldn't think so as long as the acetate glue is fully cured. I use regular superglue to attach my acetate panels after having given the piece several good coats of future to prevent fogging. Never to date had any problem pulling the acetate panels off. That being said I would imagine the larger acetate panel used the greater the chance the flexibility being a problem.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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A masking solution such as maskol or my favourite is the Gunze offering should do it. I've found that in this situation there is a fair degree of risk in using a bog standard PVA glue as you could well push the part inside the aircraft. May well be worth Futuring the part and then using CYA or something like gorilla glue.
Apparently if the part does come loose a cocktail stick with a blob of blu tac, some patience and a fair degree of swearing will coax the part back. :-[
Did I mention i've built one of these before
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Apparently if the part does come loose a cocktail stick with a blob of blu tac, some patience and a fair degree of swearing will coax the part back. :-[
Did I mention i've built one of these before
Reading between the lines, it would appear that I'm right to be concerned about that piece coming loose. I think I'll give it a couple of coats of future, superglue it in place, and hope for the best.
Cheers,
Chris
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i guess if all else fails you could get some window maker after the fact. its what ive used on my 1/48 se5a and be2e. on the se5a i forgot to put the window in so afterwards i went to the hobby shop and its what they suggested. worked so well its how i did it on my be2 which has 3 windows. after everything is done made it easy for me.
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Yep, I'm definitely ordering that window maker stuff Albatros1234 but I'm too impatient to wait for it to arrive for this build.
Fingers crossed and forging ahead . . .
Cheers,
Chris
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Maskol doesn't put up much of a fight when you remove it. And the fall back of making your own windows still remains. PVA works well as do the proprietary products like Gator Glue and Microscale's Kristal Klear. If you use these products, don't forget to leave the window in a horizontal position to cure and paint the edges of the frame before making the window.
Trevor
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Chris following what everyone else has input, you could also knock up an inner frame around the opening, trapping the edge of the acetate window and preventing it moving to ensure its not going anywhere fast?
Keith
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Thanks for all of the tips you fellows have given me. I took the plunge today and so far, all is going well. See:
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=7.msg2502#msg2502
Cheers,
Chris