forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: gedmundson on October 23, 2022, 04:07:43 AM
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I've had this kit on the to-do list for a while, and thought I'd crack it open and put it together with markings of Manfred von Richthofen's later 127/17. With Aviattic decals and some seat belts from HWG I should be all set. I also have Ray Rimmel's recent publication on modelling the Dr.1 which is quite helpful.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/6kCwgVX.jpg)
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Gary,
I’m looking forward to another great build from your workbench.
Kevin
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Gary,
I’m looking forward to another great build from your workbench.
Kevin
Thanks for that, Kevin! I've started with painting the propeller and detailed the engine with some ignition wires (barely seen from the front!). I have to say that the detail and fit of everything so far looks really nice. My wings did have that slight warp upwards, but some careful bending seems to have set them straight.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/a7iodyD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TvV5i7X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/P5QQkX5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xDnTwKv.jpg)
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Excellent start, Gary
The fit of the Meng kit pieces is excellent, as is its engineering.
Needs a little more cleaning at the seams. be careful with the plastic, it's pretty soft.
Enjoy the build
Spyros
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Looks good, Gary, and it looks like you're going to really enjoy the project. Regarding MvR Dr.1's, the partially red schemes like Nos. 127, 152, and 477 and are certainly my favorites and I'm looking forward to seeing such progress that you might share here.
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The contrast between masked/primed prop and painted prop is startling - utterly gorgeous work, Gary!
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Gary, another time both a great engine and a beautiful prop. I really like the colors you chose.
Looking forward to the next updates !
Kind regards
Jörg
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Thanks folks - your encouraging words are appreciated!
I airbrushed the aluminum parts with Alclad II Duraluminum, and made a "squiggle" pattern with Vallejo acrylic silver. Ray Rimmels book talks about the fuel tank being made of copper, with a dull green paint on it, so although you can barely see it on the finished model, I went through the motions to paint and weather that too.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/8WX6WOM.jpg)
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Off to a great start. I'll be following as I have the same combo ready to do 152.
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Off to a great start. I'll be following as I have the same combo ready to do 152.
Thanks Allan - it'll be great to compare notes! Right now I'm searching for a Tamiya acrylic paint mix for the red to match the Aviattic decal colour. Any thoughts? Probably a XF-7 and a bit of black/brown added...but how much?
Cheers,
Gary
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Gary
I used 5:1 (red/hull red) according to the WNW instructions.
(https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/09bf41544a/74384.JPG) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/74384)
i think a 7 or 8:1 ratio is close to the red of aviattic.
Spyros
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Sorry Gary, I'm not going to be much help with paints as I've switched over to Vallejos a while ago.
In my past life, I was a commercial illustrator and did color illustration paintings so colors are kinda my thing. DO NOT add black, black will kill the color and you will get a brown.
I just checked my Aviattic sheet. To get the cherry red you need and on my Camel, I started with a medium red and added Mahogany. For me the 5-1 ratio worked well.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/P1010065_7abg9icCqzRWaQHXNBkGtA.jpg?width=undefined&height=undefined&fit=bounds) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/jj307/Allanscott31/P1010065_7abg9icCqzRWaQHXNBkGtA.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)
The stripe on the rudder is probably your Tamiya red, the vertical stab is the cherry I'm referring to. Sadly, the camera made that cherry red much brighter in the pics than it is in than real life.
Hope this helps.
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Lovely clean work, Gary. Your prop masking is really effective with splendid results.
Nice work.
Sandy
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Spyros and Allan - thanks for that helpful advice. I think I can mix up a decent colour without having too much of a bright “candy apple” red shade, and have it somewhat close to the Aviattic colour. So I’ll apply the decals first then start airbrushing. I saw a build by Wolf Buddee on LSP where he discusses using his Tamiya lacquer mix which was interesting. Also, I’ve often seen reds coming up more reddish in photos than in-person, as Allan points out.
Cheers,
Gary
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Good luck Gary.
I forgot to mention that reds, like yellows don't cover well so your base coat is important.
I spray down white, then the red with a touch of white in it for better opacity, then my finish color.
Will be watching !!!
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Thanks again Allan!
It's been a while since I've been able to get some photos downloaded so here is some more progress. As previously mentioned, I'm using the Aviattic decal sheet for the colour scheme, and am impressed with what the package included. The white linen interior has a fabric look to it, and I toned it down a bit with some weathering. The seat belts were replaced with the after-market set from HGW.
In addition to base-coating the parts with gloss white for Aviattic decal application, I also added some streaks of XF-57 Buff, following the angles of the Aviattic lines. This, of course was given a few coats of gloss before adding the decals.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/WwG9oDe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/b36C9mB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TDgZC7L.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ME0Alm5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/h9EUhgL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ufoXGW0.jpg)
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That cockpit assembly is amazing Gary. The wings look very good too: and an excellent idea to use transfers for the streaking on the wings and fuselage.
Stephen.
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Those are very nice looking wings! Good advertisement for the Aviattic decals.
/Fredrik
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All looks great. Just warm water for the decals?
Steve
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All looks great. Just warm water for the decals?
Steve
Thanks Steve. Yes - all I'm using is warm water, and then after everything is dry I've gone over some of the edges and details with a scalpel and tiny amounts of X-20A Tamiya acrylic thinner (one of the best tips I've had - from Mike Norris) to get everything to settle in and stay stuck down. Keeping the base extremely glossy with Future sure works well and I've had very few problems with silvering.
Cheers,
Gary
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Thanks for the info!
Steve
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Beautiful work, I'm stunned by just how good the decals look. The surfaces look so perfect. The subtle changes of tone in the set belts look incredibly realistic too!
Richie
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Beautiful!
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Lovely stuff
Sandy
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Nice work Gary,
Having just finished the old Revell in 1/28 scale, I'm not sure I'm ready for another big tripe.
But...... I have had the Roden kit spread out on my desk along with the Aviatic decals the last hour....
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Thanks to all for the comments!
I have had the Roden kit spread out on my desk along with the Aviatic decals the last hour....
Alan - I've also begun to build the Roden kit too, using the Aviattic "Blue Max" conversion set. Lots of work there, actually.
During my build on the Meng kit I've hit a bit of a snag. The right machine gun is prevented from sitting properly due to interference with the two items circled in red in my photo. Has anyone had this happen when building the kit? The instructions sheet (and Ray Rimmel's book) don't mention it so I must have done something wrong. Also searched build logs here to no avail. Snipping off the offending part on the combing seems an obvious fix?
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/a4ZyMTx.jpg)
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Dear Gary, you have put the machine guns on the wrong side.
The part that prevents the correct placement of the machine gun is for the disposal of the cartridge cases.
Fokker's machine gun ejection was done by slats on the sides rather than tubes underneath.
(https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/09bf41544a/74774.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/74774)
sorry for my English
Spyros
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Dear Gary, you have put the machine guns on the wrong side.
The part that prevents the correct placement of the machine gun is for the disposal of the cartridge cases.
Fokker's machine gun ejection was done by slats on the sides rather than tubes underneath.
(https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/09bf41544a/74774.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/74774)
sorry for my English
Spyros
Ah! I see - thanks for that Spyros! Disaster averted - and I should follow the instructions more closely! Edit - although when I check the instructions...they do ask to place that gun on the right hand side. Very strange.
Cheers,
Gary
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I am really in awe of your work on this one and the Roden kit! Using the airbrushed streaks prior to the decals has really worked well! Looking quite awesome in My opinion!
RAGIII
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Thanks for that, Rick! I need to add a few more build pictures since this one came together quicker than planned...
I'll put some finished photos in the "Completed" section when I get them uploaded soon.
Cheers,
Gary
(https://i.imgur.com/WOhYiNV.jpg)
The struts all fit beautifully into their sockets securely. I added EZ-Line for the tail controls, too.
(https://i.imgur.com/MoQA7mW.jpg)
The upper wing fit nicely with no troubles.
(https://i.imgur.com/v9UNL8I.jpg)
One of the trickiest parts of the build is adding the aileron control cables. I attached brass tubing to the EZ-Line, then stretched and glued it into holes under the top wing.
(https://i.imgur.com/qjqp6L8.jpg)
The area of the lower fuselage behind the engine got some streaky washes of oil paint.
(https://i.imgur.com/VtB501l.jpg)
I used Gaspatch 1/48 metal turnbuckles for the few I needed for this build.
(https://i.imgur.com/E8x83Tc.jpg)
Although I considered the model complete at this point, there were a few more tweaks as always after looking it over for a day or two.
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Inspiring to say the least! A real beauty and makes Me want to do another DR1!
RAGIII
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I like it,
neat job, well done Gary.
Spyros
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What a great looking Tripe!! Perfect balance of weathering.
Steve
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Nicely done Gary !
Ed
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Best tripe I’ve ever seen! Excellent finish.
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Inspiring to say the least! A real beauty and makes Me want to do another DR1!
RAGIII
Yet another masterpiece Gary.
I agree with RAGIII, I will now have to resist the temptation of pulling one out the stash.
Alan
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Great looking tripe Gary.