forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Armour, Artillery, Vehicles, Ships => WW1 Armour, Artillery, Vehicles, dioramas, associated figures and Ships => Topic started by: Des on January 18, 2013, 07:23:04 PM
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I have decided to have a go at converting my old Pyro (1967) T Model Ford Pie Wagon into a Huck Starter. The chassis length of the pie wagon is pretty close to the correct length for the Hucks. The Pyro kit is very basic, when I say basic I mean really basic, hardly any detail at all, the sprues are done in a light blue with the plastic being very hard, there is a lot of flash on all sprues. It has four vinyl tyres which are not too bad and a sprue of clear parts which I will not need, also the brass parts apart from the radiator will not be used. This will be an interesting project and if it works it will go well with a diorama setting, the starting mechanism can be adjusted to suit all types of aircraft.
Des.
This is what I hope to create, the vehicle itself is very crude having all the usual T Model Ford lights and horn removed, no windscreen and not even a proper seat, a plain wooden box is fitted at the back. There is a wood platform at the front so a guy can stand there and fit the starting mechanism to the propeller.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ikdSaSt8fwc/UPkQxXDpBhI/AAAAAAAAD-c/WuugTPbFj9w/s700/hucks%2520x%252011.jpg)
This is the Pyro kit from where I will be starting, looks good on the box front but believe me it is not what is inside the box, stuff that nightmares are made of. :o
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H8lmQPak7jU/UPkQxaVCmhI/AAAAAAAAD-Y/Hv4wSLo7A-I/s800/hucks%2520x%252032.jpg)
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Knowing your scratchbuilding abilities Des you'll probably only keep the box.
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Knowing your scratchbuilding abilities Des you'll probably only keep the box.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D 8)
Andrew
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Knowing your scratchbuilding abilities Des you'll probably only keep the box.
Wrong; he'll use it to add scratch built details to the Build! ;D ::)
Cheers,
Lance
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I plan on trying the same thing with my Lindberg 1:32 Model T some day. I'm glad I hadn't already built it. I started looking for material yesterday and was amazed at the quanitity of photos available for this and the variety of chassis used for the platform. Should be fun to watch you do your build log!
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Thats gonna start as a Vintage Brass Car and turn into a Bad Br-ass Hucks Starter...not much of a play on words - Im looking forward to the build!!
Steve
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I plan on trying the same thing with my Lindberg 1:32 Model T some day. I'm glad I hadn't already built it. I started looking for material yesterday and was amazed at the quanitity of photos available for this and the variety of chassis used for the platform. Should be fun to watch you do your build log!
Todd,
You might want to consider getting a hold of the old Pyro Model T for your project . The Lindberg is a repop of the old Pyro kit but the molds are really showing their age with massive warping of parts and beaucoupe flash. I'd bought a total of three for conversions and found them lacking and all had the same problems warping. Whatever you deside I'll be looking forward to seeing you Hucks come to life.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks for the advice on the Lindberg kit. It was so cheap and unusual to find a kit in the right period and scale I bought it last summer. It's pretty bad, but I thought maybe I could do something like this with it. I'll watch the log Des will probably put together and that will help me make up my mind to use mine or buy the Pyro.
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I had never heard of a Huck Starter before this. Very interesting, and wonderful to see so much interest and information on it. Thanks! Once again, we can all go to school on Des. ;D
Regards,
Bob
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I have made a start with the conversion. The very basic 'undercarriage' has been modified especially the rear axle assembly, I also had to scratch the entire front axle/suspension assembly as the kit supplied item was totally wrong. I am using Humbrol No.31 Slate Grey which is fairly close to the colour used on a few machines I have seen on the net.
Des.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lUEpERsyK7Q/UPsblHNxo4I/AAAAAAAAEA8/4p0UsxkCUWU/s800/hucks%2520x%252044.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eXBBdCRdhJE/UPsblL51NmI/AAAAAAAAEBA/tyF9s_VrMT4/s800/hucks%2520x%252045.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wkUDsfmA-Ao/UPtbFP-8dcI/AAAAAAAAEB4/CdXjGqT7m_k/s800/hucks%2520x%252050.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7XG_cCiiqdo/UPsblNdB29I/AAAAAAAAEA4/uGJmURcxf0g/s800/hucks%2520x%252046.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EJnrq-bp3Ys/UPsbmdSV8LI/AAAAAAAAEBQ/hDKrnP66u_Q/s800/hucks%2520x%252049.jpg)
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Good start. They are pretty basic machines so getting all the details like you have makes all the difference!!
Steve
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Des,
Excellent progress my old friend. I'm looking forward to seeing this project getting the full treatment in detail. Maybe not as detailed as your Packard but I've no doubts you'll come up with a finished project just as awesome. Eager to follow this project.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Brilliant start on this one, Des. I'm going to enjoy watching this one as I did your last. Thanks for breaking ground on these Pyro conversions.
Cheers,
Bud
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This will be fun to watch. All of that tubular steel construction in the 1:1 conversion will be perfect for your skills with brass tubing. What do you plan to use for the drive chain?
Cheers,
Chris
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That is a very good question Chris, and a question I am looking for answers to. Does anyone know where I can source very small square chains or something similar, any help in this area would be very much appreciated.
Below is a picture of the type of chain I am chasing, it's the same as a motorbike chain.
Des.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X8ck5y_Knps/UQBUYS9vrwI/AAAAAAAAEGc/9Pi1hVJAiBw/s700/hucks%2520x%25203.jpg)
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Des,
I'm not positive but believe small ships chains are available from anybody selling ship fittings for wooden ships. I've never seen any with the square profile but those I have seen are semi round in profile and do look the part at least on ships. I'll check around with the suppliers I use and see what I can come up with for you. Maybe some of our armor modeling friends will be able to come up a suitable chain or a good subsitute.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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I'm also not certain, Des, but I could swear that I saw this type of chain on a web site (sorry, can't remember which one) for model car detail parts. I think I found it while searching for instruments a few years back. Good luck, mate.
Cheers,
Bud
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That is a very good question Chris, and a question I am looking for answers to. Does anyone know where I can source very small square chains or something similar, any help in this area would be very much appreciated.
Below is a picture of the type of chain I am chasing, it's the same as a motorbike chain.
Des.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X8ck5y_Knps/UQBUYS9vrwI/AAAAAAAAEGc/9Pi1hVJAiBw/s700/hucks%2520x%25203.jpg)
The stuff is called "roller chain" -- you can find functional miniature roller chain made of plastic resin; the smallest I could find so far is .4 mm wide -- too big I suppose?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#roller-chain/=l5yeik
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sorry I read it wrong ... more like 1.5mm wide (0.06")
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Des,
Try Here: http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/caldercraft_modernchains.html
And Here too:http://www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/Billing_Chain.html
http://www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/Amati_Chain.html
If you remember My Renault Airfield Truck these are the type of chain I used for the project. I hope this help you out my old friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
(http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t342/GJouette/WW%20I%20French%20Airfield%20Diorama/IMG_1269.jpg)
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Thanks Gregory, Bud and Bo for the information, I now have some research to do.
Bo - the link you gave appears to be the exact chain I am after, I will have to work out my scale size and see if they have anything to suit.
Des.
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i think there are several styles available in the model railroad sector. ive seen several at our local hobby shop and thought they were so cool that i should find a use for them
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Bo, I looked at your chain link (nyuk nyuk) but couldnt find the .06" I have a couple of 1/24th projects Im playing with and it would be very useful.
Steve
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Bo, I looked at your chain link (nyuk nyuk) but couldnt find the .06" I have a couple of 1/24th projects Im playing with and it would be very useful.
Steve
It's there -- it's the smallest pitch. .123"? Something like that. The C dimension is .06" (width)
I've used this stuff before on art projects and it is amazingly cool.
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Great stuff guys! Thanks for sharing this info.
. . .and Gregory, I LOVE that Renault airfield truck! Not to hijack the thread, but can you tell us a little more about it? Scale, etc.? Thanks.
Bob
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Bob,
It's from an old project in 1/32 scale. If there's enough interest I could repost the thread. Thanks for your kindly remarks my old friend,very much appreciated.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks Bo. If I had read a little more carefully I would have seen the 06 is width. I was getting greedy and was looking for 06 pitch. Still, Im going to get some.
Steve
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I have had three very busy days this week so little was done on the Model T/Huck Starter. I managed to perform major surgery on the mudguards and ended up with just the front mudguards and part of the running boards, these have now been fixrd to the chassis. I also completed the wheels and they are also fitted, the tyres are not too bad and are a tight fit on the rims, so no glue needed. All engine covers are glued together and fixed to the radiator and firewall, it will be painted today.
Des.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jRXOdZJiOls/UQIQFhvTsdI/AAAAAAAAEHk/AKyyyjzZ0GM/s800/hucks%2520x%252053.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zUEkJnToZ9Y/UQK7-J_UC6I/AAAAAAAAEJU/du1E9hdEbjI/s800/hucks%2520x%252055.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8uK51cigJlE/UQK7-Ezl8DI/AAAAAAAAEJQ/NQ7RGYEZGvg/s800/hucks%2520x%252056.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-AldKvzue8kQ/UQK7-NepbRI/AAAAAAAAEJY/8GpyYwx20kQ/s800/hucks%2520x%252057.jpg)
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Just a few tiny steps while I wait for materials to arrive in the mail. The front end is now painted, had a bit of trouble getting all the engine covers to fit properly but I won out in the end, marvelous what a big hammer will do. I also added the mudguard stays, these are just 0.6mm copper wire bent to shape.
Des.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Gpc0j1-moC4/UQY6Hjp9xNI/AAAAAAAAEKI/e6KM-KM46M0/s800/hucks%2520x%252059.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5pcyMKKu6TA/UQY6Hhz-ltI/AAAAAAAAEKM/e7CJaWe4N-M/s800/hucks%2520x%252060.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X_62yKK5jfA/UQY6Hkh8SMI/AAAAAAAAEKE/a0lQjGmGQHE/s800/hucks%2520x%252061.jpg)
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Even with being away from your bench for three days, you're still making remarkably good progress. I'm with you when it comes to big tools. Why use sandpaper when a grinder is a much more efficient way of removing material. ;D
Cheers,
Chris
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You're making outstanding progress, Des! This is really going to be fun project to watch.
Cheers,
Bud
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looks great des. just so everyone knows lindberg has the pyro "t" molds and its still in production i got one 8 months ago. it stll says pyro on the parts.
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Gregory: I'd love to see you repost the build thread for your Renault Feild Truck at an appropriate place here on the forum. I think period vehicles can add a great deal of interest and open up new possibilities for displaying our aircraft models.
Des: Great work! Your Huck Starter build has really piqued my interest in period vehicles to go along with the aircraft. Thanks!
Anyone know what other 1/32 kits might be available for period vehicles, other than the Pyro/Lindberg Model T?
Regards,
Bob
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http://members.ziggo.nl/dwijsman/
Have a look at the link Bob, they deal only in 1:32 scale old car kits, a bit expensive but they have a lot of hard to find models, this is where I purchased my Model T Pie Wagon.
Des.
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Very cool site, Des! Thanks for the link.
Regards,
Bob
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your mods are looking great on this des. i checked it out on your father site and saw the full build. after looking at the sprue shots i am certain that the 1/32 lindberg 1915 model "t" ford kit is the old pyro kit re-popped. it even says pyro on the sprues. the only diff btw mine and your besides the plastic being white is the sprue which has the pie wagon body is replaced with a sprue for a basic 1915 "T" body. so if anyone is wanting to get a 1/32 ford ford whatever ww1 aero projects they can get this " in production" linberg version for $12. keep up the good work i'll check in here time to time .
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I spent a bit of time today building the body for the Hucks Starter. The main frame is made from 1.0mm styrene sheet and the strengthening blocks from 1.0mm square. The timber panels are scribed into the back of the truck, the seat and the front platform, simulated punched nails were done with a 0.3mm drill bit. The body is just sitting on the chassis for photo purposes.
Des.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kFbi2y19-nM/URYkWnXosXI/AAAAAAAAEbc/RZzW8BX-oLg/s800/hucks%2520x%252065.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sgmg_LkVvd4/URYkWrhR4gI/AAAAAAAAEbg/VKLvF91Eybw/s800/hucks%2520x%252066.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--b3fqFpAbIQ/URYkWmSqmPI/AAAAAAAAEbY/Q8mzXRsKdOs/s800/hucks%2520x%252067.jpg)
And with some paint applied
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6AIqSqsyLVU/URYkXi4A8LI/AAAAAAAAEbw/bQ-vaSEtr6k/s800/hucks%2520x%252069.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qk5uNStNBnQ/URYkXhxoUxI/AAAAAAAAEb4/bRmJJ8aqdGc/s800/hucks%2520x%252070.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bml6CysliB4/URYkXzCtNTI/AAAAAAAAEb0/QasMWVMdJug/s800/hucks%2520x%252071.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yaTWpk5tLQ0/URYkYq1U7jI/AAAAAAAAEcE/fexTx7NvFfY/s800/hucks%2520x%252073.jpg)
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WOW! Looks great Des. Definately not your grandfather's Model T! Very nice work indeed. Thanks for showing us the way.
Regards,
Bob
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Very nice, clean work Des. It's starting to look the part now. My bet is that you used a (shudder) ruler and maybe even plans to get everything looking so true and square! ;D
Cheers,
Chris
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Looking fantastic, Des! The paint really brings the detail out. Everything's nice and straight and crisp.
Cheers,
Bud
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Great work. This is coming together very nicely.
Steve
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Thanks guys for all your nice comments, much appreciated.
I fitted the steering wheel, the wheel is the kit supplied item but I replaced the oversized shaft with a length of brass tube. The rear mudguards are now made and fitted, strange looking arrangement but functional. As per the original photos the mudguard support rod passes right through the tray section, a bracket fixed to the outside of the tray body would have been a better idea. I have also started to work on the cockpit floor, this will take a bit of figuring out.
Des.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wUHICqt3GdE/URgMxt_HNwI/AAAAAAAAEgU/rjRKfJ1DogU/s800/hucks%2520x%252074.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Mz7VR58BYw8/URgMxnE0OBI/AAAAAAAAEgY/ryIxvO7BlfQ/s800/hucks%2520x%252075.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SKN1MXedmuA/URgMxo1UJaI/AAAAAAAAEgc/78oVo_q-tj0/s800/hucks%2520x%252076.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s9apt9AHeDE/URgMyY8R70I/AAAAAAAAEgo/mxrdMinbwaI/s800/hucks%2520x%252077.jpg)
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That's looking fantastic Des! You are a maestro with the plastic card and it's always fun following your builds.
Is the Hucks Starter going to be connected to any specific model? It would look great next to your Bristol F2B.
cheers
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
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Thanks David. I was tossing up between the Bristol and the RE.8, either would look good with the started hooked up to it. The project will now be shelved for a time, I have started work on my new WnW Snipe, this is a build I have been wanting to do ever since Wingnuts first announced they were doing the kit.
The Huck Starter build will resume soon.
Des.
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I have recommenced work on the Huck Starter. I made the forward floor and cut the slots for the foot pedals, I also made the pedals and fixed them to the floor. I made the hand brake lever as well and fastened it in position.
Des.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--EhytCfl3w4/UTiBJCONDtI/AAAAAAAAFB0/KwJV5xTfot8/s800/hucks%2520x%252084.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KaNUoUCxxtk/UTiBJDAZ9NI/AAAAAAAAFBs/Sb1Ob83wGKE/s800/hucks%2520x%252085.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-o1NU8TQiG6g/UTiBJBezLII/AAAAAAAAFBo/rSX3l68RSsA/s800/hucks%2520x%252086.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lNRZxnOwUX4/UTiBJtyNGiI/AAAAAAAAFB4/3hZnyRfDKDQ/s800/hucks%2520x%252087.jpg)
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coming along very nicely des.
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Nice detail work. Which a/c is this going to be linked to or is it a free standing project?
Steve
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I made the frame work to hold the large gear for the starter shaft, the frame is made from various sizes of brass tube. I also had to make the drive gear (sprocket) for the chain to run over. The whole assembly is quite solid and well braced. The top bar needs to have a rope either end with the rear tied to the tray body and the front will support the drive shaft.
Des.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q5mgRFaBq00/UTxWly1oaVI/AAAAAAAAFGk/K6g8e2XC9So/s800/hucks%2520x%252088.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lIZrIfs74Hg/UTxWl3WtRVI/AAAAAAAAFG8/HatRwZF0ABg/s800/hucks%2520x%252089.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sq1bpNhU6Sg/UTxWl2gdBUI/AAAAAAAAFGg/DCamznamPpM/s800/hucks%2520x%252090.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QZdaLzBCbK4/UTxWmTObw3I/AAAAAAAAFGs/ZwM8h1y937c/s800/hucks%2520x%252091.jpg)
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I have done a mock starting set-up using my Se.5a, the drive shaft from the Huck Starter needs to have the coupling for the prop, there will also be another two support bars at the front of the vehicle holding the drive shaft.
Des.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eZ8T69pP_wQ/UTxWnG7vxeI/AAAAAAAAFHM/jdkK9Vd_Pig/s800/hucks%2520x%252093.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EM-QmCeYaHY/UTxWnHcZs6I/AAAAAAAAFHE/a_U-YcLjy40/s800/hucks%2520x%252094.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cyqpYceLf3E/UTxWnkypMEI/AAAAAAAAFHU/IKnj7OUqdzc/s800/hucks%2520x%252095.jpg)
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Brilliant, Des! I love it!
Cheers,
Bud
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It's going to make a great looking display Des.
Cheers,
Chris
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Des,
Outstanding mock up my old friend. The Huck's Starter is excellent and beautifully constructed. I'm looking forward to seeing the completed diorama. Did you ever find a chain at scale or near it for the chaindrive?
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Gregory - There are quite a few companies that make micro roller chains but unfortunately they are all too large for my project, so a lot of head scratching will have to be done to come up with something suitable.
Des.
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Des,
I wonder if any of these Huck Starter's may have been converted to belt drive? If so you could use several layers of decal stripes as the belt. Just a thought.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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I have not seen any photos of a belt drive being utilised, but I do have photos where the chain is covered by metal tubing the full length from floor to just before the sprocket at the top, only the small amount of chain that runs around the sprocket is exposed, this would be one way out of having to make a long length of chain. Food for thought but would not look as good as seeing the full length chain.
I was thinking of going to a few toy shops and having a look at their toy motor bikes, they might have a roller chain (plastic would be good) that could be used if it is the appropriate size, just a thought.
Des.
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Gregory - There are quite a few companies that make micro roller chains but unfortunately they are all too large for my project, so a lot of head scratching will have to be done to come up with something suitable.
Des.
I was afraid of that. :(
FWIW, an observation that only segments between the sprockets need to be open. If I were modeling this, I think this is what I might try first. Essentially a sandwich of sprocket wheels. "roller chain sides" . On the straight lengths small wire for the rollers. On the sprockets, simply notch the circle to represent the teeth and rollers:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/b54ee5952630bcf5a4c1139306c4ade6_zps8f8cfaf7.jpg)
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Thanks Red for your input, notes have been taken. I have seen a few 1:24 scale motor bike kits so the chains on them might be getting close to the correct size, the roller chain used on the Huck Starter was quite beefy.
Des.
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Hi Des'... [first time caller]................
Here's an example of a 1/9 scale chain used in a 1/24th scale context: although these are built up as individual working links, but even this wildly out of scale the difference still makes a "believable" heavy duty chain??
So you may be onto something using the 1/24th within a 1/32 configuration - only problem I can see is cutting and shutting the chain in order to get it to fit your required layout - but just a case of fiddlin' till it fits I guess?
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x248/Andismodelpages/Belle%20Lane/Crane-challenge-022.jpg)
Your Huck starter is an excellent build by the way - enjoyed that on it's own - even though I was supposed to be here for the Aircraft!!!
Although .................. !! sorry for this...........
The rear axle on your vehicle: Ford TT, is a worm gear drive which actually attaches to the upper [top] portion of the axle casing and not at the axle midpoint as you have it - an easy fix to snip it off and bend up gently - re-attach.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x248/Andismodelpages/3c4fb6e6.jpg)
And one I made earlier.............
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x248/Andismodelpages/472f7017.jpg)
Hope I've been helpful rather than blotting my copybook already?? .......... Cheers for now.............................
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Thanks Andi for the heads up on the tail shaft diff connection, all I did was to follow the instructions which at best are very vague.
Thanks also for the photo of the roller chain, this is exactly what I am after but as you know, in a smaller scale, the hunt continues.
Des.
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Apart from the roller chain the Huck Starter is finished. I made all the final prop starting drive mechanism and have it set up to suit the SE.5a. I also made and fitted a battery to the left side of the vehicle, and made and fitted the lever for actuating the drive gear from the gearbox. Now comes the battle to find a suitable roller chain, if my search fails I will have to comtemplate making one, some how....
Des.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N1DzfNQe19A/UUKdYSB6CoI/AAAAAAAAFL4/DR3cs4qywjc/s800/hucks%2520x%2520103.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Liurg7bOI3E/UUKdY8ChqXI/AAAAAAAAFL8/PLcMymS_O1k/s800/hucks%2520x%2520104.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RNoGimsBu7w/UUKdZMmmo1I/AAAAAAAAFMI/wdvYX4-YDzw/s800/hucks%2520x%2520105.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-y-Xc2IdGnDE/UUKdZWU23cI/AAAAAAAAFMM/FRxD5UJi8Io/s800/hucks%2520x%2520106.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aGgu7EeCm3E/UUKdZlxZURI/AAAAAAAAFMU/CHkovCe1uEY/s800/hucks%2520x%2520107.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-28yz8Zg-kAw/UUKdaOoq_dI/AAAAAAAAFMo/NxywKUCLa0A/s800/hucks%2520x%2520108.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kKzYTYv22rc/UUKdYcP0y0I/AAAAAAAAFLs/iyoGbTj4t-8/s800/hucks%2520x%2520101.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NTMacEIrbdY/UUKdYVu_NiI/AAAAAAAAFL0/vB-7axm7OhE/s800/hucks%2520x%2520102.jpg)
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Looks great with the Se5a. Hope your chain search is successful. Sounds like 1/12 motorcycle kits might be the route to go. Doesnt one of the Japanese model shops sell individual sprues? I remember their site was a real jumble but they had everything. - bingo - Rainbow Hobbys
Steve
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Thanks for the tip Steve but I think 1:24 scale would be a closer match to what I am after, the search continues.
Des.
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She's truly brilliant, Des! She lines up perfectly with the SE. Almost like she was built with that in mind. ;)
Cheers,
Bud
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have you tryed to google photoetch roller chain sets? seems like someone has got to be a crazy detailer for 1/24 motorbikes. try a model motocycle forum too.
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Already done Scott, a 1:24 scale photo etched motor cycle chain is heading my way, I don't know the dimensions of this chain but hopefully it won't look too out of place. If this fails I will be asking for someone who does photo etch to make me a sheet of chain plates, I have the dimensions but I don't have photo etching facilities, I am willing to pay someone for their services.
Des.
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Basic p etching can be done with a black permanent marker to draw your parts on brass sheet and electronic stores sell etching fluid that you put the brass sheet in and the unmarked brass is "burned" away. Radio Shack or whatever theyre called now carries it - used for circuit boards I think.
Steve
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Thanks Steve for your suggestion.
My biggest issue is the size of the parts I need, very tiny. As you can see by my rough sketch the dimensions are tiny, but I would need as many as these that would fit onto one sheet of brass PE.
Des.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eqCu9voZMlc/UV1OsEwzWCI/AAAAAAAAF5c/ytZItL7O5XY/s800/chain%2520x%25201.jpg)
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Des,
Jeez that's tiny little links my old friend. But I'd hazard a guess that if you should decide to go with the scratch built chain,you'd pull it off magnificently.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
PS: Ever thought for doing the same conversion in 1/16 scale. I believe there's Model T kit available in the scale.
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I think I would etch the basic shape then punch the pin ends that cover the holes out of plastic.-or are the holes depressions where they link?
Steve
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If I have to go this road, and this will be my last resort, I would use the links as illustrated, the rollers would be 0.5mm brass tube and the individual pins to hold it all together would be 0.3mm brass tube, the pins would slide inside the roller tubes. Total width of the chain including rollers and links would be 2.0mm. It would be a very intricate thing to put together but it is possible, it does not have to be a functional chain as it will be there for show only.
All I need is the name of a company somewhere who could produce the links for me in the sizes I have mentioned, I know there are a few companies who do orders but I don't have any contact information for them.
I am still awaiting the arrival of the 1:24 scale motor bike chain which is a PE chain set with individual links, rollers and pins and is a fully functional roller chain, but like I said, I don't know the size of this chain so it might be too large.
Des.
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Very creative use of the Pie Wagon kit, Des! I think this is the first one I've ever seen depicted in scale. Excellent demonstration of conversion and scratch work, too. It looks excellent paired up with the SE5; marvelous diorama potential in this project.
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i do have rudimentary pe set. the one you get from micro mark. where i'm limited is the size of the sheet i can produce(3x3 inches) and producing the artwork on a clear mylar sheet. if you want i can try to etch this for you. if you can mail to me your art work arranged in the 3"x3" fret on clear sheet i will try for you. basically how it works the art is printed on a clear sheet. the art must be in negative, so where you want the brass to be eaten away it must be black and the areas that are to remain must be clear. the reason is the black areas prevent the uv light (during the exposing process) from hardening the photosensitive film which has been previously laminated to the brass sheet. after you lay the art on the laminated brass you expose it to uv. next you put this in a sodium hydroxide bath. this will remove the film that wasnt hardened(black areas) therefore exposing the brass to the upcoming ferric chloride acid bath. hopefully if you did a good job and are meticulous and neat the areas you want are dissolved and the areas you want to remain,remain. so like i said. if you want to make the mylar sheet and mail it to me i will try to etch it for you. no charge of course cuz your my ole buddy. pm or email me if you want to ask any questions. actually you need a back and front version of the art on the clear sheet. one side will be the side plates on the fret with the sprue like attachments. the other side will look as if the side plates arent connected to the fret side rails. that way the connecting parts are only half the thickness of the metal. you see what in mean? the acid eats from both sides obviously and you expose both sides with perfectly aligned art work. you can do 2 identical sides but this will make it harder to trim your parts from the fret as the connections will be the full thickness of the metal. i hope i am explaining this as plainly and easy to understand. sometimes its hard to convey thoughts on the web. any questions just pm me.
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Sorry to come late to the ball, Des, but would any of these work for you?
https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/p/LArsenal+Black+Chain+55+linkscm+50cm+length+CH+257/10002/
Cheers,
Bud
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Thanks Scott and Bud for your help.
As I said earlier, I am still waiting the arrival of the 1:12 PE motor bike chain, if this proves to be out of scale for my project I will then look at making my own, I will keep you informed.
Des.
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Bandai did a 1/16 Model T van which pops up on e-bay fairly regularly
Des,
Jeez that's tiny little links my old friend. But I'd hazard a guess that if you should decide to go with the scratch built chain,you'd pull it off magnificently.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
PS: Ever thought for doing the same conversion in 1/16 scale. I believe there's Model T kit available in the scale.
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The 1:12 scale detail aftermarket chain set arrived and I have started work with the assembly, this is a link by link, roller by roller assembly. The size is probably a tad over scale for my Huck Starter but it will do the job nicely and will look the part. The photos show the first section of chain, this is how much that can be made with the jig supplied, there is enough material to make eight sections, I will probably need five for my Huck starter.
Des.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Jox6_tB_97s/UWqgsbLd9QI/AAAAAAAAGCw/yY4h1PU8jKI/s1000/chain%2520x%252014.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D4qpfKZu3fw/UWqgs4_pQYI/AAAAAAAAGDA/_B_FBbWhbdo/s1000/chain%2520x%252015.jpg)
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That looks the part!! - Pretty much like the real thing!! How do they all stay together?
Steve
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The rollers in each link extend past the outer plate on both sides, the jig comes with a guide which fits over the chain allowing the small pins to protrude through the guide, once all set up it is a simple matter of lightly hitting the pins to flatten them slightly, as the chain is sitting on a hard surface the pin on the opposite side flattens as well, this will lock the plates in place and allow the chain to move freely, it the pins are hit too hard the chain will become tight.
This photo shows the size of the rollers and the different sizes to fit the side plates, these are precisely made and the with the inner and outer plates having a different size hole they fit the shaped rollers perfectly.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bGG2sX9i1ss/UWqgrxHSqyI/AAAAAAAAGCk/NZwzWGlm_2M/s800/chain%2520x%252011.jpg)
Des.
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Wow Des, that chain is amazing!
Superb stuff.
Alan
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Wow!! That is delicate work. You've done a magnificent job!!
Steve
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Good eye and a steady hand. Very impressive work Des. Looking forward to seeing the chain installed.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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To work with such small parts, you must have the dexterity of a brain surgeon Des. Incredible.
Cheers,
Chris
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To work with such small parts, you must have the dexterity of a brain surgeon Des. Incredible.
Cheers,
Chris
...or a watch maker! Brilliant stuff, Des. Can't wait to see it installed.
Cheers,
Bud
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After a very long drawn out affair the Huck Starter is finally finished. The 1:12 scale Top Studio Motor bike roller chain is now fitted, assembly of the chain is very time consuming and extremely fiddly. The chain is slightly over scale for my vehicle but it is as close as I could find, near enough is good enough in this case. The entire chain has been painted with Mr Metal Color Stainless and lightly buffed.
A full build log of this vehicle can be found on my website - http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com/page40.html
Des.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2_ZewvaBy7s/UW9_aN9B70I/AAAAAAAAGIQ/A6AWjXJjLaI/s800/hucks%2520x%2520112.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kfK8vOLsz4I/UW9_aI_S8eI/AAAAAAAAGIs/NUzl2eBZzuY/s800/hucks%2520x%2520113.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CJyr5_ekO0Q/UW9_aGWjyWI/AAAAAAAAGIM/Uf5wJc11Ipw/s800/hucks%2520x%2520114.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BWhtIVXRp8I/UW9_az2DWpI/AAAAAAAAGIc/GtELg8UTn00/s800/hucks%2520x%2520115.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a3mZ7RB6LMg/UW9_bSL_1II/AAAAAAAAGI4/Gt6x-iBc-_c/s800/hucks%2520x%2520117.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X6UGtcXl_fg/UW9_bm_gfAI/AAAAAAAAGI0/hyf9_pgAKKs/s800/hucks%2520x%2520118.jpg)
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Des,
The chain and drive are magnificent my old friend. Overall an outstanding project which I'm certain will become part of an awesome diorama shortly.
Congratulations and Well Done.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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What a wonderful project this has been. I've enjoyed following and am delighted that you were finally able to find an appropriate chain. I don't think it looks over scale, just...er...robust! The overall effect is brilliant. Superb craftsmanship from beginnig to end.
Cheers,
Bud
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Great wrap on this one Des!! The chain looks the part and it was an impressive piece of construction.
Steve
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I can well imagine the eye strain involved in assembling this chain. I tip my hat to you for having the perseverance to track it down and put it all together. It really sets off the model and was well worth the effort. Good job!
Cheers,
Chris
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Knowing the work you have put into this scratch build Des the result is outstanding and the chain looks really authentic. We who cannot scratch build are in awe of your talents.
This would make for a wonderful diorama with the Huck starter connected to a WNW model and some suitable ground crew figures.
Outstanding work !
Kindest regards
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
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Very nice indeed Des.
In these days of Health and Safety I reckon an inspector would have a field day with that chain thrashing around your legs!
Alan