forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Brad Cancian on August 08, 2022, 07:20:43 PM
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Hi all - recently I reviewed the re-release of the Eduard Albatros DV, kit 8113:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=13239.0
(https://i.imgur.com/9waWHK8.jpg)
As part of that review, I promised a build log. Well, here it is!
Up front, I want to state that this is a build of a kit provided free to the forum by Eduard as one of our sponsors (and many thanks again to them for the kit). As a kit provided by a sponsor, i'll state that I did not pay for the kit personally, though I may have paid for some of the bits and bobs i'll add along the way.
Now, that aside - I've built a few of these kits before. They go together well, and without a hitch. I decided that I'll make a couple of enhancements along the way; noting too serious, but a few tweaks along the way.
I've started with the cockpit. Out of the box, the kit cockpit is quite comprehensive, with nothing really needing to be added. I did decide though to replace the kit floor and rear bulkhead with items scratch built from sheet and strip plastic. The only reason I really did this was to crisp up a little bit of the detail, and more accurately represent the cockpit floor, which only stretched across one fuselage frame and not two frames in the fuselage as is provided in the kit. The bulkhead behind the pilot seat is likewise moulded as a solid piece in the kit. This is generally correct, as this was a fabric covered panel. I decided to 'remove the fabric', so to speak. I used the kit part as a template for the shape and hollowed out the centre. I also used the forward cockpit floor bulkhead as a template, and added the seat rails from brass rod and foil. I also did the same for the bulkhead that holds the ammunition boxes and oil / fuel tanks. Again, not really necessary (as the kit parts are perfectly fine, buried away in the fuselage), but I wanted to give it a go. Again, I used the kit parts as a template:
(https://i.imgur.com/Pz3i4s5.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/Ei5Qe9M.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wwvkzff.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5ecClFJ.jpg)
The fuselage sides were detailed with strip, to help them 'pop' under paint and a wash. I also added the omitted diagonal structural reinforcements, which the moulded interior omits.
(https://i.imgur.com/TiLzSpn.jpg)
And squeezed into the fuselage:
(https://i.imgur.com/eeQ8AFw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JkEbvom.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aeLx5SU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dI5UVu4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vFWqQlf.jpg)
This should give me a solid basis for more details.
Again, not a huge amount of progress, but I really wanted to get this build log started, so here we are :)
Feedback and hints / tips always welcomed.
Cheers!
BC
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Excellent progress Brad :o
Do you own the Smithsonian book on the restoration of 'Stropp' DV.a? Well worth a look.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41KvmTnOCiL._SX373_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg)
Cheers,
Bob
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Excellent progress Brad :o
Do you own the Smithsonian book on the restoration of 'Stropp' DV.a? Well worth a look.
Cheers,
Bob
Thanks Bob! I do indeed have the Smithsonian book. I agree it's an excellent reference.
Cheers!
BC
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:o :o
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Simply SPECTACULAR Brad! It looks to be better than a WNW kit 8)
RAGIII
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Really nice looking upgrades! This, or an older version of it, was my first attempt at a WWI kit, maybe it's time for another go?!
/Fredrik
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Wow!! I enjoy that kind of work. Almost therapeutic.
Steve
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Very nice improvement over the OOB cockpit!
Andreas
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This is much more amazing than WnW.......
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Nice work on the details Brad :)
Alexis
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Thankyou everyone for your kind words!
To demonstrate the scattered way in which my mind works, I turned my attention to the engine this weekend. The Eduard engine is basic out of the box, but has all of the major components you need. The kit represents the 160hp mercedes D.III engine, which is most easily identified by the rocker springs being in line with the rocker arm boxes (the 180hp D.IIIa models had the springs and rocker boxes offset). A feature of the 160hp engine is the lack of air pump atop and infront of the forward cylinder. As I intend to model an early D.V (right now I am thinking perhaps that flown by Von Schleich whilst with Jast 21s), I decided to stick with modelling a 160hp D.III engine.
There are not too many options for the D.III engine in 1/48 in terms of aftermarket. One aftermarket D.III is that released by Karaya, but this seems long out of production, and I have long since used up my stash of these engines. There are D.IIIa aftermarket options available but these are not cheap. So, I figured I may as well add a few details to the kit engine and be happy with that.
Thankfully, most of the engine is hidden within the Albatros' cowls; the most visible aspects are the tops of the cylinders, and anything you can see when you look down into the cowl. The first thing I did was remove the thick 'bar' that sits lengthwise across the cylinders. This it there to represent the tube through which the ignition wires run:
(https://i.imgur.com/QUt4Qft.jpg)
This turned out to be far more tricky than I thought, but once I had removed this chunky item the best I could, I replaced it with brass tube. I then attached some ignition wires and fed them into the tube at the back end, and attached the wire to the magnetos. I added some tape to represent the lagging on the air intakes (this should hopefully look better once painted). Rocker arm springs were added from wire wound around a drill bit, with the caps made from small discs punched from sheet plastic. The arms themselves were simple lengths of wire (heck, this thing is small enough as it is). Some other little bits and pieces were added here and there, but not too much. The exhaust is a metal one from REX, which I will likely use on this build. Anyways, here's some pics of it all roughly dry-fitted:
(https://i.imgur.com/YHXvGkC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sP06NCF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ewt8xfw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qfzF3YQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FsCc4e6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LKnFrQ2.jpg)
Again, I see how close up pictures make things look really sloppy.... :( Oh well. I remind myself that this thing is smaller than a #11 hobby blade, and try not to be too harsh on myself...! ::)
Next, onto the fuel and oil tanks and details at the rear of the engine bay, then back to the cockpit...
Cheers again!
BC
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Wow! - amazing engine details, Brad.
I would'nt mind that level of sloppyness on my builds ..........
Regards
Dave
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I'm quite sure that paint and a normal viewing distance will show this to be more than adequate. Good job!
/Fredrik
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Simply SPECTACULAR Brad! It looks to be better than a WNW kit 8)
RAGIII
I second that!
Willem
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Wow! - amazing engine details, Brad.
I would'nt mind that level of sloppyness on my builds ..........
Regards
Dave
My thoughts Exactly!
RAGIII
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Exquisite work Brad. The paintjob on the exhaust is beautiful!
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Amazing work on the model, Brad. That work on the interior forms and engine is very impressive indeed. Looking forward to seeing how you manage the rest of the build.
Cheers,
Gary
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Certainly not easy work but your photos and descriptions make it very clear what your process is!!
Steve
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This is brilliant, Brad, will be following with great interest!
Cheers
Ondra
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For goodness sake Brad, just when I think I might be getting a hand on this modelling lark something like this comes along - Brilliant ;D
Love an Albie and have stocked up on popcorn waiting for the next instalment
Paul
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Thanks all! This one is far from perfect but I am having fun so far, I really appreciate the encouragement :)
No more progress on this one this week so far (work is kicking my behind this week), but here's a little size comparison with a standard #11 blade.
(https://i.imgur.com/o4IOgJG.jpg)
Zac - I can't claim the paint job on the exhaust; the REX exhausts are metal and this is how they come. I am thinking I could leave it as is and it would still look about right?
Cheers again!
BC
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Nice work on the details Brad . For the blot heads , is that standard rod or did you use hex rod ?
Alexis
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Zac - I can't claim the paint job on the exhaust; the REX exhausts are metal and this is how they come. I am thinking I could leave it as is and it would still look about right?
To quote Mutt Summers after the maiden flight of K5054: don't touch a thing!!
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When you get to this point I'd love to hear about the decals. I think they switched to the new style ones after this kit was originally issued and I'm wondering if this one has the same subjects redone in the new style or they are just a reprint of the old style decals.
And ... nice work so far :)
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Hi all - progress has been slow, but ongoing... I have kept my focus in the engine bay for now.
The kit engine is mounted on a "C" shaped flat piece of plastic. I decided to trim the back end of this piece off, and make up some formers to sit around the engine bearers. I didn't add too much detail here, as much of this will be hidden.
(https://i.imgur.com/DBM2NvY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/M1tnVYh.jpg)
I now had all of the basic formers in place:
(https://i.imgur.com/AlVyzjO.jpg)
The kit models the front of the fuselage as fully closed off behind the spinner, whereas this area was open on the real aircraft. I thus removed the plastic at the front end and thinned the walls down with a dremel.
(https://i.imgur.com/vEgiSm7.jpg)
Next, I fashioned the small tank that sits next to the engine, using an offcut from the kit sprue sanded to shape:
(https://i.imgur.com/LUZ4lZZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZZ2Krja.jpg)
I added some bearers to the rear engine bay former for the guns:
(https://i.imgur.com/4aY1ro5.jpg)
...and then fashioned the fuel tanks out of laminates of plastic, with a couple of details added:
(https://i.imgur.com/sqmQ813.jpg)
And with the kit ammo boxes:
(https://i.imgur.com/D9CuRvG.jpg)
I now have all of the essential components needed for the engine bay. It's all starting to take shape...
(https://i.imgur.com/EdhO8Nr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/54bNwRv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7Kfbuaj.jpg)
Cheers!
BC
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Amazing craftsmanship! You make my efforts look like child’s play! Eagerly looking forward to seeing more.
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Wow! 😲😲😲
/Fredrik
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Excellent work Brad, it looks fantastic! I love seeing the extra work you're doing.
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Thanks Tim, Fredrik and Zac!
Another small update today - one of the other aspects to the kit that can do with a little attention is its spinner; it's a little too rounded and slightly too bulbous, which makes the front end of the model look slightly fat. The spinner should be slightly longer and slightly more pointed. Though the difference is only small, it is something that stands out when you look for it.
Accordingly, I tried my hand at vacforming a new spinner. I have a small vacform machine that I purchased some time ago with small jobs like this in mind; so I turned up a master in balsa and vacformed a new spinner. As I said, the difference is only small, but it helps make the business end of the aircraft look sharper.
(https://i.imgur.com/OUgi1Q2.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/2li2CCZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YRKudIr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ed5qigw.jpg)
As the first time really trying this kind of scratchbuilding, I learned a thing or two; firstly, don't go too thin on the plastic; it needs to be able to hold up to handling. Second, if you can avoid it, don't use balsa as a master; I effectively destroyed the master trying to remove it from the plastic once formed. Hey, this is how we learn, right? ;)
Cheers,
BC
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Nicely done! That really does look a lot more like it. :)
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Thanks William! ;D
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I really like the detail work inside the cockpit and engine compartment and the vacu-spinner.
Really a great job.
I hope the cowling stays open.
It would be a shame if this sight would remain hidden from the viewer.
Servus
Bertl
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You set the standards how to build Rodens Albatros D. III in 1:32 (at least - and not only - for me…), now you’re setting the standard how to build Eduards Albatros D. V(a) in 1/48. hats off, mate!
Andreas :)
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I hope the cowling stays open.
It would be a shame if this sight would remain hidden from the viewer.
Hi Bertl - I am starting to think the same; most of the work I have done will indeed be hidden... I may have left it too late to remove the cowl panels and thin the fuselage sides down as that will make the frames not fit well. I'll have a think and see if there's anything else I could do here...
You set the standards how to build Rodens Albatros D. III in 1:32 (at least - and not only - for me…), now you’re setting the standard how to build Eduards Albatros D. V(a) in 1/48. hats off, mate!
Thank you Andreas! I am very humbled that you remember my Roden Albatros from way back when... 2008 if I remember correctly! That one was a commission build, I have no idea if it's still in one piece today...
Cheers again,
BC
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Wonderful build, Brad. I am checking back regularly for updates.
Chad
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I hope the cowling stays open.
It would be a shame if this sight would remain hidden from the viewer.
Hi Bertl - I am starting to think the same; most of the work I have done will indeed be hidden... I may have left it too late to remove the cowl panels and thin the fuselage sides down as that will make the frames not fit well. I'll have a think and see if there's anything else I could do here...
You set the standards how to build Rodens Albatros D. III in 1:32 (at least - and not only - for me…), now you’re setting the standard how to build Eduards Albatros D. V(a) in 1/48. hats off, mate!
Thank you Andreas! I am very humbled that you remember my Roden Albatros from way back when... 2008 if I remember correctly! That one was a commission build, I have no idea if it's still in one piece today...
Cheers again,
BC
@Brad Cancian
I think Andreas (@Borsos) means this Albatros D.III - built.
(https://up.picr.de/44274820as.png)
(https://up.picr.de/44274821oo.png)
That's right funny, because exactly this model, this build report was the inspiration for me regarding super detailing and exact representation of the wood structure and much more.
I was amazed at what is possible - for me, it was "the kick in the ass" to do more with a model than just OoB.
....... many years have passed, but for me this D.III, even today, is an absolute masterpiece, Brad ;)
Servus
Bertl
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Yes, Bertl is absolutely right in all points!
Andreas
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Wow, Brad, you are making a WNW model in 48th scale! Great work all around.
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All parts of your construction seem to be going well, Brad. I totally agree about your thoughts on the Eduard spinner. The one you fashioned looks great. And the tiny gap between it and the circumference of the cowling looks spot-on.
Cheers,
Gary
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Hi all - I have not forgotten this one... work has been kicking my butt, however I have still made some snail-paced progress. The engine now has some paint...
(https://i.imgur.com/cgM0rgF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pj7ZmvP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GL98sWd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gxwW7Ms.jpg)
Next, paint on the rest of the interior...
Slowly but surely, we soldier on!
Cheers,
BC
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More awesomeness Brad!
RAGIII
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Outstanding Brad!
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This engine looks really nice as well. Kudos to you getting the asbestos wrap replicated on the intake pipes. I gave it a try on another build with miserable results. Will try again, but I really like what you were able to achieve.
Chad
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A very convincing looking engine: just needs some fuel and a magneto and you could test run that!
Stephen.
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I'm glad to see you are still working on this Albatros Brad.
That engine is looking very good!
Cheers,
Willem
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Hi there everyone - another long time between drinks here, but after two WW2 builds between times I am back at the bench with this one. The interior is now largely complete.
I added a seat cushion from milliput, some wiring and details here and there, and added a compass. Otherwise, the rest of the bits and bobs come from the Eduard etched fret.
Here's the core part of the cockpit:
(https://i.imgur.com/hqnLc0u.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zqRgvOc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SOSOFYm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kvPHBaG.jpg)
And the engine with oil tank (in the end, I had to remove the former to get everything to fit, but this isn't too noticeable when one peers through the cowling):
(https://i.imgur.com/vAVFlS4.jpg)
The sidewalls:
(https://i.imgur.com/h4wYQsy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1gufqYy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YmZ5eof.jpg)
And it all dry fitted together:
(https://i.imgur.com/bjImW8m.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VGfVEL7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LftNssu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3hjdjij.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VBKgJNf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jXFR7oa.jpg)
Naturally, most of this can't be seen with the fuselage halves together... but hey, I know it's there...!
Cheers,
BC
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Hi all - while the glue dries on the now joined fuselage halves, I've turned my mind to colour schemes.
I want to do an early D.V with the headrest characteristic of the early production models. So far I have a few candidates.
Sticking with wooden fuselages to start:
A factory fresh scheme, from the line up famously destined for Jasta 11:
(https://i.imgur.com/htxPYet.jpg)
D.1187/17 from Jasta 10:
(https://i.imgur.com/Kyb44gg.jpg)
Karl Thom's machine from Jasta 21 (Thom would later go on to earn the Pour Le Merite in November 1918, so I like this one as a candidate. There's speculation as to whether this machine had a varnished wood fuselage, or a fuselage painted light blue):
(https://i.imgur.com/71F2fZ4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GtMD6W8.jpg)
Others that appeal to me that don't have varnished fuselages:
Von Schleich's famous machine:
(https://i.imgur.com/rnpNf8y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FEI2IRQ.jpg)
Eberhard Von Seel's stiped D.V of Jast 17 is also appealing:
(https://i.imgur.com/ZWF4er0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Xvkmiqh.jpg)
As is Windisch's similar machine from Jasta 32b:
(https://i.imgur.com/GUGjGuI.jpg)
What say you all? I am inclined to stick with a varnished wood fuselage, but interested to see any other early D.V schemes that might fit the bill...?
Cheers in advance!
BC
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Nice progress! I like the Karl Thom machine. Any chance the fuselage is varnished wood ahead of the stripes and light blue behind? Looks like the blue continues onto the vertical and ends roughly on the rudder - not white. A darker wood or varnish for the headrest too?
Steve
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Excellent work on that interior!
/Fredrik
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Nice to see you back on this Brad, and with a great update!
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Gotta be one of the best builds I’ve ever seen Brad!
Awesome.
Guy
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Nice progress! I like the Karl Thom machine. Any chance the fuselage is varnished wood ahead of the stripes and light blue behind? Looks like the blue continues onto the vertical and ends roughly on the rudder - not white. A darker wood or varnish for the headrest too?
Steve
I’d also go for Thom’s Albatros, this mixture of warm wooden tones and cold black and white makes it attractive in my eyes. Great work on that Eduard fuselage!
Andreas
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I know it's a 100 year old photograph but the Thom machine is in mostly direct sunlight. The significant panel line does not appear past the vertical stripes and the "textures" seem different in front of the stripes vs behind. Just a thought. Are there other pictures of this machine?
Steve
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Beautiful work Brad! Really like the wood effect you have achieved.
I’m liking the Karl Thom Jasta 21 machine as well. Seems to me the rudder is some other color than white given the contrast between it and the white cross outline. Probably just doped linen.
All the best,
Tim
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Here’s a different profile picture from the web:
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Beautiful work so far Brad.
I would go for the varnished wood fuselage version.
Cheers,
Willem
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Thanks gents - really appreciate the feedback!
Looks like Thom's machine has the vote :)
I note the serial number range indicates green / mauve wings. I do wonder if the rudder may have been a replacement rudder, i.e. lozenge...?
Cheers,
BC
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Beautifully detailed and painted interior surfaces Brad! I am looking forward to your overall paint scheme. For what it is worth I liked the Jasta 10 scheme ::)
RAGIII
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Hi all - some more slow but steady progress.
The fuselage, lower wings and tail feathers are attached. I've added the headrest, which didn't fit too well and needed a bit of sanding. I also made a headrest cushion from putty:
(https://i.imgur.com/kWRoMe0.jpg)
The horizontal tail feathers also didn't fit too well. They needed to be shimmed out at the roots:
(https://i.imgur.com/K0ddCeq.jpg)
The lower wing generally fit well, but benefitted from some shimming at the aft end:
(https://i.imgur.com/uBEA6jM.jpg)
One of the enduring criticisms of this kit are its short undercarriage legs; they give the model a 'squat' appearance which, in conjunction with the bulbous spinner, makes the whole front end of the aircraft look 'fat'. As such, I'm also replacing the undercarriage legs with extended resin replacements (can't remember the name of the chap who made them). They are rough and need some clean up, but should look much better than the kit legs and give the model a better 'sit':
(https://i.imgur.com/TIdb8pc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nI6Bb4V.jpg)
And here's where I am up to; she's primed and ready for some paint...
(https://i.imgur.com/XNmlNno.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iHWLW3m.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GxKTlzO.jpg)
Now the fun really starts...!
Cheers,
BC
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Your work on your Albatros continues to be impressive Brad! The simulated nail heads should look amazing with a wood finish on top of them!
RAGIII
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Very nice work Brad - tidy job with the shims and the replacement gear really do help the look.
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Brilliant work so far, Brad. The nail-head lines are especially great. Your correction for the undercarriage legs is a “must have” for this model since the kit offerings make it look stumpy as you’d described. Looking forward to your progress with great anticipation.
Cheers,
Gary
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Excellent work Brad. That engine is just amazing!
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Hi everyone! This one has been battling me in the painting stages, and boy, she fought me all the way.... but I wanted to post some progress to keep myself motivated...
The undersides were pre-shaded in light brown, and the light blue went down over the top. No dramas there.
(https://i.imgur.com/0CXNJRl.jpg)
I pre-shaded the upper fabric surfaces in a dark brown to start with. I mixed the lilac colour myself; whilst it looked more 'brown' in the cup, it came out quite...well... pink. I tried to adjust this with some brown oversprays, but it's still quite pink. Not wanting to have to re-start, I said "fine, pink it is", and moved to the green. Well, I was happier with the green mix that I made, but I stuffed up the feathered edges a few times. Arg. This meant I had to go heavier as I moved the edge masks, which meant I lost the pre-shading at the colour boundaries. This meant I had to go back with some more masking tape over the ribs and some post-shading to even the shading effect out. Even then it's a bit obvious. Arg. After all of that, here's how it came out:
(https://i.imgur.com/oDBLjxW.jpg)
So, gritting my teeth, next came the simulation of the ply fuselage. I used a base colour of very light tan (white with a dash of brown), and used oils to simulate the 'wood'. I use a mix of raw umber, burnt sienna, yellow ochre, black and white for this step, the aim being to have quite a significant contrast at this stage, knowing that subsequent stages of painting will really pull this effect back. Now, in the depths of winter here in Australia, it took well over a week and a half for the oils to try. See if you can spot the fingerprints where I 'tested' how dry the oil paints were (or weren't...)... sigh!! Here's how she looked at this point (the excessive contrast is deliberate and quite apparent at this point):
(https://i.imgur.com/EukX18G.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NJ4Aqu6.jpg)
Next, I did some coatings of clear yellow, which helps to 'pull' the panels together visually a little more (noting there's still a little bit of contrast, which will again be 'pulled down' with washes and flat coats):
(https://i.imgur.com/9JuU2uz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zIY1enQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Tv7vwlW.jpg)
Next, the cowlings, again my own mix of grey with some pre-shading and tonal variations here and there:
(https://i.imgur.com/Fewzvt7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/anNgEaT.jpg)
At this stage, she looked like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/o7Wco6g.jpg)
Next, came some selective gloss coating with brush-painted Future, and decals. The future worked too well, and the decals stuck hard and fast once on the surface. Many decals got ripped at various points in trying to manoeuvre them into place, which is obvious if you look closely. Darn!). Some of the decals were also slightly out of register, sadly. Oh well, no going back now...
(https://i.imgur.com/Koa4yIx.jpg)
Then came another clear coat, and an oil wash. First, the wings (I made the aileron actuators from sheet styrene and wire, as the kit etched parts proved impossible to fold...):
(https://i.imgur.com/T2WnUc1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qXkNoiu.jpg)
And here is where she stands:
(https://i.imgur.com/GW2leaN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gWc2pvB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zKijAyg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/o2OVa7C.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cPGe3Im.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9gWD6zI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vxf2L2W.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Zu5QBNT.jpg)
As you can see, the various stages and washes 'tone down' the panel contrast, but leave enough of a contrast for the model to be visually interesting, I think?
There's still more weathering to do, and some more effects i'll try with some thinned oils, but I am just happy that I have made it this far.
Given how long it's taken me to get to here, in the interests of trying to give myself a chance of more build completions this year, I have set myself a completion date of end of June, so we'll see how we go. I find that once I get to this stage, things generally tend to pick up pace to completion. Fingers crossed things from here don't give me as much grief as the painting stage...!
Thanks for looking - all comments, criticisms and feedback welcomed as always!
Cheers,
BC
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In a word BEAUTIFUL
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Well Brad, any trouble this build has given you is definitely not evident from your pictures. You certainly have mastered this one. Looking forward to seeing more!
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In a word BEAUTIFUL
Yep! Another word would be Brilliant!
RAGIII
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Wow!
I know your troubles might be staring you in the face, but that is a very nice looking model! Great wood representation!
/Fredrik
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Proof we are our own worst critic! I think she looks fantastic. The colours work, the wood effect works and the weathering works. Lots of character there.
Steve
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Amazing work, Brad -
Great wood tone to the fuselage too!
Regards
Dave
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Big thanks everyone, I really appreciate the kind and encouraging words, especially from excellent modellers such as yourselves! :)
Thanks again,
Brad
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Hi Brad,
Quote
"Now, in the depths of winter here in Australia, it took well over a week and a half for the oils to try. See if you can spot the fingerprints where I 'tested' how dry the oil paints were (or weren't...)... sigh!!"
I use the ‘Windsor & Newton’ Griffin Alkyd oil paints.
Same range of colours and brushed the same with moistened white spirit brush.
Same results as standard oil paints, but no need to leech out linseed oil beforehand and the are touch dry within 30 minutes.
Fully cured withing around 24 hours,
Mike
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Beautiful wood grain effect, Brad.
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Brad,
I'll add to Mike's suggestion here that if you prefer to stay with the oil based wood grain application investigate Winsor&Newton "Liquin Original". It's a product that accelerates the drying process and is impressive in reducing drying time to approximately 24 hours. I've used it for years and it has never failed. Just mix a small brush full into a "blob" of your oil paint about the size of the recess on a Humbrol paint lid (probably a 10% mix of Liquin to paint) and use your normal woodgraining technique. It has saved me from the fingerprint trap since I started using it!
Cheers,
Lance
Hi Brad,
Quote
"Now, in the depths of winter here in Australia, it took well over a week and a half for the oils to try. See if you can spot the fingerprints where I 'tested' how dry the oil paints were (or weren't...)... sigh!!"
I use the ‘Windsor & Newton’ Griffin Alkyd oil paints.
Same range of colours and brushed the same with moistened white spirit brush.
Same results as standard oil paints, but no need to leech out linseed oil beforehand and the are touch dry within 30 minutes.
Fully cured withing around 24 hours,
Mike
-
Personally I Like the Longer drying time. I found the Resin Oils to be difficult to work with when doing wood finishes larger than a floorboard :-[ The only concession I make to speeding things up is using Testors Airbrush thinner as it is Hotter than Oderless Turps ! As your results speak for themselves I think Leaving your method as is might be wise 8)
RAGIII
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Weighing in on the "tip" posts - I put my artists oils on a piece of cardboard first, soaks out some of the linseed
Steve
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No tips here, only admiration for the mix of "wood"s. Very nice work Brad!
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Beautiful work!
Warren
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Thanks all for the tips and suggestions here on the wood grain and paints. I did use an 'accelerator' of sorts a few years back, which was mixed in with the oils. I can't remember what it was called, and it did dry them quicker, but it changed the consistency of the paint and I didn't like it as much.
I might try the alkyds and see how they go.
Otherwise, I might just have to stick with being patient in the colder months (in the warmer months, the oils can be dry within a couple of days) :)
Cheers again,
BC
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This is all of a quality I can only dream of...
Willem
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Hi all - small update; the undercarriage is now on. I still think that these replacement legs could stand to be a tad longer, but here we are (they are definitely an improvement over the kit legs, none the less). I think they are slightly uneven in length also, as it took a but of cajoling to get everything straight (or straight enough...).
Here is where she stands (pardon the pun... wheels are not yet glued on):
(https://i.imgur.com/G0wJphe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6XwjVUs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zBqqDhu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nDujeQ1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uijnoUK.jpg)
I also did the radiator today, and rigged the elevator. Next is to attach the rigging anchors to the wings, then the most daunting part; mounting the top wing...
Cheers,
BC
-
Hello
Your work is always so incredible and inspiring!
This assembly is a reference for any owner of a 1/48 Albatros D.V!
Arnaud
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Superb work on this Brad, your detail painting is amazing and the wood effect is ultra realistic!
Richie
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It is hard to believe your DV could look any better but the gear assembly makes it so ! Stunning Model Brad! I will say it again, Don't Change from the Slow Drying Oils, Your wood finish is Perfect!!!
RAGIII
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I thought the look of the fuselage was really good before, but now with the wings attached it looks even better! The model looks kind of matte/flat (in tha absolutely best of ways), have you added a flat coat on top?
/Fredrik
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Many thanks all! :)
Fredrik - indeed I do seal with a clear flat coat, in this case, gunze premium clear flat acrylic. This is the one that I have found produces the most consistently dead flat result for me.
Cheers again!
BC
-
Looking very good, Brad. I think the nail heads really add a touch of realism.
-
superb work and magnificent rendering Brad, but how did you do the nailing lines, freehand or with rosie?
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Stunning. Absolutely stunning.
I'm just catching up, but wanted to chime in on the oil paint discussion. I've been using the stuff since 1972 (for pictures, not models!) and wondered if the accelerant you used was called cobalt drier?
Dave V.
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Great modelling Brad and I think the woodgrain is very convincing.
I absolutely love it!
It looks like it could just fly away with just the underwing ;)
Cheers
Willem
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Thanks for your answer about the flat coat! As I said before, it looks great!
/Fredrik
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Wow Brad! That looks amazing.
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Hi all - thanks for the ongoing kind words, it's helping to spur me along :) To that end, the upper wing is now mounted, and rigging mostly done. On the home stretch now!
superb work and magnificent rendering Brad, but how did you do the nailing lines, freehand or with rosie?
Hi Osterkamp! The nail lines are done free hand with a pointed scriber. I have a rosie wheeled riveting tool, but every time i've tried to use it on curved surfaces such as this, it goes awry... the freehand riveting also is very far from perfect, but it will do. I certainly welcome any tips you or others may have using one of the wheeled riveting tools?
Thanks again!
BC
-
I think this model has a great amount of character. It looks great!!! The landing gear struts look fine to me but if you had to, would the kit struts be usable to extend?
Steve
-
Thanks Steve!
Yep the kit struts are able to be extended, you just need a similar aerofoil shaped plastic to splice in 2-3mm worth anywhere along the length; I've done this on previous builds. The only annoying thing is the clean up. Remember though that the extra length also changes the distance between the attachment points to the fuselage, so the struts will need to be gently 'squeezed' (recommended under hot water) to keep the original distance.
Cheers,
BC
-
She be done!
(https://i.imgur.com/SNQkbo6.jpg)
Completed build photos are here:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=13870.0
Again, many thanks to everyone that provided me with kind words and encouragement along the way with this build!
Cheers again,
BC
-
Awesome Results Brad!
RAGIII
-
This is a marvellous build, Brad. Well done!
Your wood effect is as good as any I’ve ever seen! Do you apply the oil paint with a brush only? Or with a sponge or some other clever tool? Every time I try, it just ends up looking like a sloppy paint job rather than woodgrain.
Also, I’ve been thinking of buying this vacuform machine for things like this too https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/404306459367?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=gyim9o_rqro&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CblkPjc_TM-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/404306459367?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=gyim9o_rqro&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CblkPjc_TM-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY).
But balsa is exactly what I imagine making the master from. No idea what else to use? And what thickness sheet did you end up using to make the spinner?
-
Hi Lance,
I also use Winsor & Newton Griffin Alkyd oils but find they still take a few days to dry. So this "Liquin Original" product is pretty tempting. Do you use it instead of a thinner? Or as well as a thinner (and if so, which thinner do you use)? Thanks so much for your help!
Brad,
I'll add to Mike's suggestion here that if you prefer to stay with the oil based wood grain application investigate Winsor&Newton "Liquin Original". It's a product that accelerates the drying process and is impressive in reducing drying time to approximately 24 hours. I've used it for years and it has never failed. Just mix a small brush full into a "blob" of your oil paint about the size of the recess on a Humbrol paint lid (probably a 10% mix of Liquin to paint) and use your normal woodgraining technique. It has saved me from the fingerprint trap since I started using it!
Cheers,
Lance
Hi Brad,
Quote
"Now, in the depths of winter here in Australia, it took well over a week and a half for the oils to try. See if you can spot the fingerprints where I 'tested' how dry the oil paints were (or weren't...)... sigh!!"
I use the ‘Windsor & Newton’ Griffin Alkyd oil paints.
Same range of colours and brushed the same with moistened white spirit brush.
Same results as standard oil paints, but no need to leech out linseed oil beforehand and the are touch dry within 30 minutes.
Fully cured withing around 24 hours,
Mike
-
Great work, Brad -goes to show, even if rather basic, how nice these kits still are :)
-
Thanks gents!
This is a marvellous build, Brad. Well done!
Your wood effect is as good as any I’ve ever seen! Do you apply the oil paint with a brush only? Or with a sponge or some other clever tool? Every time I try, it just ends up looking like a sloppy paint job rather than woodgrain.
Also, I’ve been thinking of buying this vacuform machine for things like this too https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/404306459367?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=gyim9o_rqro&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CblkPjc_TM-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/404306459367?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=gyim9o_rqro&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CblkPjc_TM-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY).
But balsa is exactly what I imagine making the master from. No idea what else to use? And what thickness sheet did you end up using to make the spinner?
Indeed I do use a brush, usually one that's flat and around 3-4mm wide. I do slightly thin the paint which helps with the 'grain' effect.
Yep that's the same little vac machine that I have. I used balsa for a master but I pretty much destroyed it trying to get the mould off the master. I think next time i'll use a hard wood of some kind (I welcome any tips from those more experienced at vac forming than I...!). I think the thickness of sheet I used was 10 thou, if I remember correctly.
Cheers again!
BC
-
Thanks for the beautiful photos and all the tips! :)
Have a nice day from New Caledonia!
-
Basswood might be an option. Light weight like balsa but with a tighter grain. It's still easy to carve and sand.
Steve
-
Thanks Brad for this information, but like you, I always have a little problem using a Rosie.... your Albie is superb, thanks for this wip, now it's my turn to try and make one.