forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Umlaufmotor on May 02, 2022, 03:15:41 AM
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Hello together,
well, after years of active abstinence (since the crazy action of Photobucket) I would like to start an active build report again.
In this case a Morane Saulnier Type N "Bullet" from Special Hobby in 1/32 scale.
A few small parts from the aftermarket I will use, otherwise the model will be built strictly out of the box - but let's see what's in the box (grin)
I have to add that the model was already started in January 2021, the model itself is about to be completed in the foreseeable future.
(https://up.picr.de/43521265ds.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43521267cd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43521270yw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43521272xn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43521263mm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Here compared to the fuselage of a Wingnut Wings Albatros it is nice to see how small the plane was.
I started by exposing the openings in the rear of the fuselage for the control cables.
A massive amount of material was milled off from the inside.
The fuselage fairing above the fuel and oil tanks was also milled considerably thinner.
(https://up.picr.de/43522426fi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522434id.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522436sz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522437ek.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522438mb.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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All hail the master! ;)
(https://media4.giphy.com/media/jXIK2C2XBsAVi/giphy.gif?cid=ecf05e479erc4majgv3ugti62grye4ru0flidfwei132nu3u&rid=giphy.gif&ct=g)
Bob
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Hoooray, Bertl is back!!
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Glad to see you back to the bench, Bertl!!! - I feel another masterpiece is coming...
...Out of the box means you will take all the pieces out of the box and then modify 98% of them, right? ;)
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After that I started with the propeller and the spinner.
Explicitly on the spinner and the fuselage cover above the fuel and oil tank, the many raised rivet heads on the original catch the eye. Unfortunately, there is relatively little of this on the model.
The spinner had to be machined accordingly.
Since I did not want to show the plane brand new but used, I also added some dents and dings to the spinner.
(https://up.picr.de/43522665wt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522666aa.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522667yc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522669kc.jpg)
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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0.2mm holes were drilled to show the raised rivets.
I glued copper wire into the holes, cut them with pliers and ground the heads.
You don't want to believe it, but it works ..... but honestly, it's a crazy job.
(https://up.picr.de/43522671nt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522672je.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522673xy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522675fs.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The engine hood also had to be milled considerably thinner on the inside.
Of course, some dents and dings here too ...
(https://up.picr.de/43522851dw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522852dh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522853zy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522854si.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Fantastic work on that spinner. And the milling you've done looks like very delicate work (to be careful enough not to break through!).
Happy to see your work again.
Cheers,
Gary
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Thank you Gary ;)
The spinner was primed with a metal primer. Over it several thin layers of aluminum from Mr. Metalcolor. On it irregular spots were dabbed with Stainless.
Finally, the spinner was polished.
(https://up.picr.de/43523005tv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43523004il.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43523003eh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43523002nn.jpg)
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Great to see you back to modeling, Bertl. And the start certainly does not disappoint!
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I was going to say "beautiful work" and then I saw the rivets on the spinner...incredible!
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Welcome back Bertl, and so nice to see you back to your old form, the work so far is extraordinary for detail as is your hallmark! I recently built this one, looking forward to your production of what is a pretty nice Kit!
Cheers,
Lance
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Very nice detail work!
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Exceptional work as always. Great to have you posting a build again! That spinner Looks like metal!
RAGIII
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No, it doesn't look as metal, IT IS METAL!!!!!
Incredible work Bertl!!!
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It is really, really wonderful work Bertl! Great stuff to enjoy... and learn! I will be following closely, Marc.
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Hello together,
Thank you very much for the warm welcome. I have to say, I haven't really been away. Over all these years I have read along, but rarely commented.
I have also noticed that the forum has grown in time, but am extremely happy to meet many old acquaintances here "from the early days".
Now I have found an image upload provider that makes sense for me and I am able to upload images here again.
BtW and Off Topic to @bobs_buckles:
I got myself a second bike, a Honda V2, more precisely a Vtr 1000 SP-1, more than 20 years old, but a nice occupation to renovate this old racing legend over the years (I think I'm retiring at the end of next year, I need the smell of gasoline and oil and the sound of the bikes, in short I need an occupation in retirement).
(https://up.picr.de/43529439gp.png)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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But now back to the Morane.
I made a small tool out of brass to mount the motor, propeller and spinner exactly in one line.
In the tip of the spinner I glued a small self-made plastic bushing as a guide.
(https://up.picr.de/43529270aa.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529264cf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43522675fs.jpg)
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Great to see you again, Bertl! And the spinner of your Morane looks amazing.
Best regards,
Andreas
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The propeller was painted in sand color, then painted with colored pencils in fine lines (unfortunately I don't have a picture of this).
After that, the wood grain was depicted with oil paints.
The propeller was finally darkened with highly diluted brown.
The metal fittings were painted with Mr. Metalcolor "dark iron".
(https://up.picr.de/43529278oo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529279cs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529288ih.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529286xs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529306jf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529308ek.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The metal triangles for deflecting the bullets were also modified based on original images.
(https://up.picr.de/43529496uf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529302jo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529276gb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529277sz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529275nl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529300fx.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Here the two metal triangles are already attached to the propeller
(https://up.picr.de/43529537ax.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529536tp.jpg)
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The rear cover for the spinner and the two hub plates for the propeller were punched out of a thin Evergreen plastic sheet.
(https://up.picr.de/43529319un.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529542mv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529541gb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529507qi.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The back of the propeller mount was built as close as possible to the original.
(https://up.picr.de/43529543nz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529544cw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529547fl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529549en.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529554kf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529553ne.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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More pictures of the propeller backside
(https://up.picr.de/43529556el.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529562jw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529563ut.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529569yj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529568wo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529567dt.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Here the propeller front in the model and original.
This concludes the chapter on propellers for now ;)
(https://up.picr.de/43529566yx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43529573ph.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Superb results on that propeller. It is truly great to see you back to modeling bench.
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BtW and Off Topic to @bobs_buckles:
I got myself a second bike, a Honda V2, more precisely a Vtr 1000 SP-1, more than 20 years old, but a nice occupation to renovate this old racing legend over the years (I think I'm retiring at the end of next year, I need the smell of gasoline and oil and the sound of the bikes, in short I need an occupation in retirement).
(https://up.picr.de/43529439gp.png)
Servus
Bertl
Respray her in Colin Edwards colors!
Lovely bike, Bertl :o The SP-1's do sound lovely when you roll off the throttle.
Happy project for a happy retirement ;)
Enjoy!
Cheers,
BMW Bob
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Absolutely stunning work on the prop and deflector assembly Bertl - there's much more to it than I thought! Just beautiful.
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Wonderful work - I especially like the way you handled the rivets on the spinner. Great stuff!
Cheers,
BC
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Thank you very much for the flowers to all! ;)
Servus
Bertl
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It's not a big step from the propeller to the engine.
The rotary engine is cast in resin, not bad, but not in the quality that I could have used it without problems.
The engine is too large in diameter, many of the cylinders are twisted so that the valve timing linkage is off by several degrees of angle, and there are some flaws in the casting of the cooling fins.
In short, it needs a little work.
(https://up.picr.de/43535601yq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535600gj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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So that the motor can be turned without errors in the finished model, I glued a homemade part on the back.
The back plate was shaped so that the distributor disk for the ignition cables and the bearing are made of one part.
This back plate was then used as a guide to drill a centered hole with a suitable drill bit.
Through this hole runs later the shaft (made of brass) for the engine.
(https://up.picr.de/43535617uw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535618gl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535619ok.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535620df.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535621qy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535622hk.jpg)
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So that the cylinders do not collide with the inside of the thinner milled engine cowling, they were all separated from the engine block.
The separation point was filed down a bit and all cylinders were glued in a neatly adjusted manner.
Of course, the missing spark plugs were also added.
I used the fine Taurus plugs here.
The pushrods were represented with a thin brass tube.
(https://up.picr.de/43535603wt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535604hz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535605ec.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535606ji.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535607px.jpg)
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The engine mount on the inside of the firewall was reinforced with a cross-shaped mount similar to the original.
This also served as a bearing for the motor shaft.
The bracket was milled from FR4 GRP.
(https://up.picr.de/43535593tf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535590cm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535594gi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535599zb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535598lq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535597mb.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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After the main work was done only some glue and some paint was needed and the engine was finished.
The ignition wires were represented with thin copper wires.
No big deal.
You can see almost nothing of the engine later.
The big spinner covers almost everything.
(https://up.picr.de/43535611kw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535610eu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535866go.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535865pf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43535614ul.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Good to see you back Berti - and in fine form too. As Beto has already commented, you are of course only building this out of the box....with 98% modification!
Stephen.
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Hi Stephen,
Thank you very much. :)
Well, @Beto is very close with his guess. ;)
Servus
Bertl
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Now to the fuselage of the little Morane.
Here, the cast-on stringers on the insides were all removed and made new from thin Evergreen material.
(https://up.picr.de/43536024ww.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43536022uj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43536023mb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43536020if.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The side panels have also been revised.
I have to mention about all this rebuilding work that I found almost no pictures of an original MS Type N cockpit.
A little bit in the Windsock Datafile, but many conversions are based on feeling, guesses, pictures of other Morane's like Parasol Type "P", "H" etc. and various conclusions like "it should have been something like this".
(https://up.picr.de/43536026yn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43536025jm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43536028mp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43536027tp.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The side panels of the cockpit were scraped a lot thinner with a scalpel blade.
Here in comparison the right side in the picture to the left.
Note the fuselage wall (edge)
(https://up.picr.de/43536030dp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43536031cd.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Of course, the thinner milling of the material was noticeable elsewhere.
The joints showed gaps in the plastic.
These were filled with waste plastic.
(https://up.picr.de/43536032dx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43536033fm.jpg)
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Really a lot of time went into detailing and rebuilding the back wall.
Here I wanted to make the view into the rear part of the fuselage visible. of course only as far as it was the case with the original.
But this also meant that some rework and scratch-building was necessary at this point in the fuselage.
In general, it must be said that the large cockpit opening provides a lot of insight into the aircraft - but unfortunately very little can be seen there out of the box.
So, in fact, a lot had to be rebuilt and displayed "by hand". But that's model building - that's exactly why we love our hobby ..... or am I wrong?
(https://up.picr.de/43536044rl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43536053be.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43536051fy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43536054dw.jpg)
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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With these pictures of the painted back wall I say goodbye for today.
Stay healthy
(https://up.picr.de/43536230ep.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43536229ro.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43536228ye.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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I worship Master.
Spyros
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Hi Bertl,
Impressive use of your machining skills and construction.
Pleasure to watch,
Mike
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Truly inspirational and aspirational work, Bertl!
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Nice work, Bertl. Did the MS type N have a round tubular metal framework?
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Hello @ kensar,
thank you very much.
The very sparse pictures in the www show a cockpit with round tubes - I assume that is metal.
There are also some nice CAD drawings on the web, also there you can see a structure made of tubes.
Servus
Bertl
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The plywood floor was made from Evergreen plastic sheet.
Unfortunately, this floor is not included in the kit.
(https://up.picr.de/43542342gt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542341vj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542340vo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542339rf.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Here in the pictures the bottom is fitted in the fuselage.
(https://up.picr.de/43542351fe.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542350ep.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542348du.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542347ui.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The pilot's seat and the seat cushion were also completely redone.
(https://up.picr.de/43542417hh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542419qo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542418zn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542422kt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542421vl.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The next step, the creation of the Rudderbar
The thing was scratch built from plastic, brass tube and copper wire.
Also the bearing for the rudder bar was built from scrap plastic and resin screws.
(https://up.picr.de/43542436zt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542435mm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542437vx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542439nx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542440go.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542442nu.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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With paint, the rudder bar and plywood floor look much more realistic.
The steelwires for the rudder were created from 0.10mm fishing line.
(https://up.picr.de/43542447bv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542448jr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542449ox.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542454mo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542453tk.jpg)
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The rudder pedal was movably mounted on the cockpit floor.
Here the underside of the floor in neutral position:
(https://up.picr.de/43542555xv.jpg)
Here the top side neutral:
(https://up.picr.de/43542558bx.jpg)
Rudder to the left:
(https://up.picr.de/43542557qq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542554gr.jpg)
Rudder to the right:
(https://up.picr.de/43542556ti.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43542559ae.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Knowing this build, I can only recommend everyone to secure their chin!
It's simply unbelievable what's still to come.
Enjoy the show!
Frank
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Knowing this build, I can only recommend everyone to secure their chin!
It's simply unbelievable what's still to come.
100% my feelings - exquisite work so far Bertl!
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Bertl,
Thank you for sharing your techniques. The spinner I never would have thought to do, but it really adds to the model. I look forward to the continuation!
Stuart
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Knowing this build, I can only recommend everyone to secure their chin!
It's simply unbelievable what's still to come.
Enjoy the show!
Frank
I saw it (in the German forum) and I completely understand what will follow.
A few small parts from the aftermarket I will use, otherwise the model will be built strictly out of the box -
Servus
Bertl
Bertl definitely the kit is made OOB, since you use the fuselage, the wings, the rudder, the wheels, the propeller and the engine.
I honestly admire your builds.
Spyros
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Let me say it once more, it is great to see your work again. Every touch is just amazing.
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Definitely top shelf work!
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:) :) :) :) :)
Alexis
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@Alexis, @kensar, @PrzemoL, @acewwi, @Stuart Malone, @KiwiZac, @Bughunter
Thank you very much to all of you.
Frank and Spyros talk about a show - it's not going to be that great, it's just plastic modeling plain and simple.
Servus
Bertl
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Today only a small thing - scratch built from the seat cushion for the pilot.
The following pictures are from February last year.
Some of you know I'm a big wingnut wings fan.
Also here on this model I used material from New Zealand - even if it was only waste plastic in this case.
(https://up.picr.de/43547026rq.jpg)
I used the outline of the kit seat as a template for the cushion.
(https://up.picr.de/43547028mo.jpg)
The buttons were marked with a thin pencil ...
(https://up.picr.de/43547030xu.jpg)
and drilled with a thin CNC drill.
(https://up.picr.de/43547032wt.jpg)
The imprints of the pilot's thighs were indicated with a small half-round file.
The cushion should look used and crumpled.
(https://up.picr.de/43547031oy.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now the two dents left by the pilot's butt.
I used a small ball sander and the Dremel to create the two dents.
(https://up.picr.de/43547034yr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547033nu.jpg)
In the next step, the surface of the cushion was "raked" a bit with a small sharp cutter so that the surface of the cushion looks even more used.
(https://up.picr.de/43547035de.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547038gq.jpg)
Now the holes, in which the buttons are inserted ,were slightly widened and deepened with a cutter on the top side.
(https://up.picr.de/43547036fo.jpg)
Between the machining steps, the surface of the cushion was smoothed with fine steel wool.
Using a pointed scalpel blade, the typical small indentations and folds were now made, which run from the center of the buttons to the outside.
(https://up.picr.de/43547039nu.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Time for the thin circumferential leather bead with which sewed the top and bottom of the pillowcase.
Hot drawn casting bast is the right choice here.
Gluing is done with thin Tamiya plastic glue.
This glue has the advantage that the thin casting branch is slightly dissolved, making it softer and more pliable.
(https://up.picr.de/43547040ps.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547041ps.jpg)
Nun die Knöpfe.
Zur Darstellung der Knöpfe benutzte ich Resin-Nieten von Masterclub.
(https://up.picr.de/43547048zf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547046oq.jpg)
Here in the picture the finished cushion in comparison to the kit part.
(https://up.picr.de/43547047mn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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color makes the world more attractive ... .
Here are the three different color applications in order:
(https://up.picr.de/43547050ef.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547051lv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547052ri.jpg)
Done
(https://up.picr.de/43547056rt.jpg)
And here the cushion together with the scratch built pilot seat:
(https://up.picr.de/43547058xy.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The mount for the pilot's seat in the model was created using various Evergreen plastic materials.
(https://up.picr.de/43547062vk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547061gt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547060in.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547059pq.jpg)
That's all for today.....bye until soon ;)
Servus
Bertl
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Catching up on your build is inspiring! Brilliant work as always!
RAGIII
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Thank you very much @RAGIII ;)
Servus
Bertl
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So, the plywood floor is done, the rudder bar is done, as is the seat ....... now let's move on to the next step.
The control stick and its mount.
Again, I had no use for the kit parts.
In my opinion not correct and also much too lean in the representation.
Here again scratch-building was the order of the day.
I started with a 1mm diameter copper tube.
The copper tube was sawed in the middle, widened a bit and provided with a cross hole.
The white plastic rod on the right served me as a counter bearing, so that the tab of the copper tube was not deformed during drilling.
(https://up.picr.de/43547599aq.jpg)
This picture shows somewhat the later position of the transverse control and bearing for the control stick in the fuselage bottom.
(https://up.picr.de/43547601ei.jpg)
A separate bearing became necessary for support the transverse control.
This was "carved" from a piece of Evergreen plastic.
As a template for this complete construction, I used CAD drawings found in the www.
I do not want to link these drawings here because I do not own the copyright.
But they are easy to find via google etc..
(https://up.picr.de/43547597ph.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547596no.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547600tq.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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The control stick was made of a (Wingnut Wings :) ) plastic rod which was pulled over a candle flame.
A cross hole was drilled in this plastic rod and connected to the copper tube.
Thin and fragile at first sight, but in scale ..... and movable ;)
(https://up.picr.de/43547603sx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547607zd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547605pe.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547606ei.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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..... a small remark:
English is not my native language, which means that I certainly cannot render some terms correctly ::)
Certainly, the correct sentence structure will also suffer. :-\
Please bear with me, but feel free to give me info and correct me if it gets too out of hand ;)
Servus
Bertl
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Small plastic parts were glued to the control stick to hold the elevator control cables.
With a small file and sandpaper these plastic parts were filed in contour.
(https://up.picr.de/43547608hs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547610un.jpg)
Fishing line was again used as control cable.
(https://up.picr.de/43547615li.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547614os.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547612zm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43547611ap.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The control stick handle is a separate component in the box.
Well, I have not used it.
The contour and the type of finish do not match the CAD drawings described earlier.
Also an original picture of the cockpit, which I found in the www, shows a different contour than the kit part.
Again, waste plastic from Wingnut wings.....
(https://up.picr.de/43555186gw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43555185am.jpg)
The handle was wrapped with thin copper cable.
Hard to believe, but this work took a whole hour.
In the middle of the handle you can see the button for the ignition interruption (in German called Schnirps-knopf).
(https://up.picr.de/43555190tg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43555191gb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43555189gs.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The control stick has now been painted.
(https://up.picr.de/43555196ey.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43555194db.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43555195rr.jpg)
The control cables for the elevator linkage were also mounted.
Also good to see, the electric cable leading from the "Schnirps-Knopf" to the ignition distributor.
(https://up.picr.de/43555204bn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43555201lh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43555199vq.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
A test to see if everything fits properly in the cockpit.
(https://up.picr.de/43555241bu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43555240od.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43555238od.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43555222jw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43555221bj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Exquisite work as always, Bertl! Beautiful pieces and it's fascinating to see how you arrive at the end result.
-
Thank you Zac ;)
Servus
Bertl
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I was not sure how far you can see into the fuselage through the open rear panel.
For this reason, I depicted the second fuselage wall in a very rudimentary way.
A frame made from an Evergreen plate, reinforced with two pieces of wire served its purpose here.
To say it in advance - you can't see any of this on the finished model.
It's too dark back there in the fuselage ;D
So I could have spared myself this work.
But what do we modelers say? .... I know it is there ... ::)
(https://up.picr.de/43566754mi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43566752ei.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43566753hs.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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Die beiden Rumpfhälften wurden auf der Innenseite mit Gunze "Radome" und die hölzernen Stringer mit Tamiya "Flesh" lackiert.
Die Holzmaserung auf den Stringern wurde mit Ölfarbe gemacht.
(https://up.picr.de/43560200ca.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43560197mb.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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As mentioned in the post before, I wasn't sure how far you could see into the fuselage through the open back wall.
For this reason, I also took the precaution of showing the bracing of the side panels and at the bottom of the fuselage.
Again, thin fishing line is used as tension wire.
The turnbuckles are made of 0.4mm brass tube, the eyelets on the turnbuckles were made of 0.1mm silver wire.
(https://up.picr.de/43560204ka.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43560202ho.jpg)
Due to the fact that the bracing on the bottom of the fuselage was crossed, I had to come up with a way to run wires from one half of the fuselage to the other and tension both wires.
In principle, this was quite easy to solve, I drilled a slanted hole at the end of the tension wire on each side of the fuselage and before gluing the fuselage halves together, the tension wire was threaded through the hole.
After both fuselage halves were glued, I was able to tension the wires and glue them in place with super glue.
After that, the two holes were filled and sanded.
In the original, tensioning wires were also attached to the top of the fuselage structure, but on the model these would not have been visible in any case when assembled - so I spared myself the display on the model.
(https://up.picr.de/43560208xy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43560205is.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
In the next step you will see the assembly of the bracket for the wingwarping.
(https://up.picr.de/43568255mg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568256gt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568253ol.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568254hd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568252gi.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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As always your work is superb! You take the simplest of Materials and make them look like you have used finely machined metal or soldered brass! Brilliant Modeling!!
RAGIII
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In the following pictures the assembly of the lever for the wing twisting.
This bar (or lever) transmits the transverse movement of the control stick to the lower tension tower.
From there, the movement is transmitted via steel wires to the trailing edge of the wing and to the wing tips.
..... the canvas has already soaked with Castor oil in the meantime ::)
(Tamiya "Smoke" was used for this).
(https://up.picr.de/43568293nn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568292ay.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568296ac.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568297uv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Hi @RAGIII thank you very much.
And you are right, I actually try to get along with simple materials ;D
Servus
Bertl
-
Now things got trickier.
The rudder and elevator control cables had to be routed at the correct angle through the airplane to the end of the fuselage and out there.
For this purpose, I mounted a small auxiliary bulkhead with various holes in the rear end of the fuselage.
Thus I could determine the correct position for the course of the control cables.
So that the control cables lead without bend from the exit from the fuselage to the rudder horns, more material had to be milled off inside.
(....the red line in the last picture).
(https://up.picr.de/43568271ou.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568265tn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568263bs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568264as.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568270rl.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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To avoid overstressing the control stick and rudder bar later when moving the rudders, I added end stops for the control cables made of plastic material. These are the white parts in the pictures.
(https://up.picr.de/43568535kd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568534tl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568530rc.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Now the rudder:
On the model, the rudder and fin consist of one part.
This was separated and seen with a hinge.
I used 0.4mm brass tubes as the pivot point.
(https://up.picr.de/43568538nb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568539lq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568542jd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568541ul.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568547al.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568544xx.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
(https://up.picr.de/43568563nv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568559em.jpg)
An aluminum tube was glued to the end of the fuselage to provide sufficient stability for the rudder.
(https://up.picr.de/43568560vb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568566gn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568573hk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
First test:
Rudder is movable.
(https://up.picr.de/43568574gn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568572iy.jpg)
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Photo-etched parts are included with the model to represent the rudder horns.
However, these were too unstable, too flat and unsuitable for my project.
Do-it-yourself was the motto.
The rudder horns were carved from scrap plastic.
The challenge is to make both horns look exactly the same and to keep the scale effect.
(https://up.picr.de/43568575ym.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568581mk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568580eq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568578pi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568584ka.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568583jz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
And now the next test:
Note the rudder at the end of the fuselage and the position of the rudder bar in the cockpit.
(https://up.picr.de/43568586sq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568582gm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568587xq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568591ro.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568588zg.jpg)
It works ;)
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I was waiting for this, to see the working rudder. Will you do this for the elevator, too?
-
Magical work, Bertl :o
Pure magic.
Bob
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What a great detailing!
Incredible job on the prop and the spinner to begin with.
The miniscule scratched turnbuckles and control cables are awesome.
And a working rudder and elevators is just genius Bertl!
Slicing up such a tiny engine and rebuilding it is very courageous but it turned out very well.
Your detailed build log is a feast to follow!
Willem
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@PrzemoL
Yes, the elevator are also movable.
I'll get to that for tomorrow with the next set of pictures .
It wasn't quite as easy as with the rudder, but in the end it works very well ;)
The model itself is now almost finished, the only thing missing at the moment is the mounting of the wings to the fuselage.
Otherwise everything is finished except for a few small things.
@bobs_buckles
Thanks Bob, but that's just the little wizardry .... I learned that in Gryffindor ;D
@Rookie
Thank you very much for your kind words, Willem.
It goes even further with the built log, the next challenge was the scratch built of the interior of the cockpit.
Unfortunately, very little is included in the box.
Servus
Bertl
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Bertl, the word I keep coming back to describe your work on this N is "exquisite". Truly exquisite craftsmanship.
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Incredible, magical and a bit of Stardust, Bertl! This is a very inspiring thread to follow! Well done! Marc.
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Catching up after being away for a few days. This is scratch building at a level that only Frank and a few others can match. Brilliant.
Stephen.
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Absolutely beautiful work. Thank you for sharing it.
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@PrzemoL
Yes, the elevator are also movable.
I'll get to that for tomorrow with the next set of pictures .
It wasn't quite as easy as with the rudder, but in the end it works very well ;)
The model itself is now almost finished, the only thing missing at the moment is the mounting of the wings to the fuselage.
Otherwise everything is finished except for a few small things.
Servus
Bertl
I am eagerly looking forward to see it complete. Your attitude to the modeling and the results are... I ran out of appropriate words...
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Amazing miniature engineering!!
Steve
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Well, after a very tedious and busy week I only manage to post pictures again today.
But that's life..... .
But first, thank you all for your kind words, I'm glad if you enjoy the build report.
Servus
Bertl
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Before I post pictures of the elevator, I'll jump briefly to the wings.
Both wings are bent and cannot be installed oob.
I first dipped them in near boiling water and straightened them.
But the next day they were bent again.
Now I resorted to stronger weapons, a hot air blower.
With this I managed to permanently straighten the two wings.
(https://up.picr.de/43569758ur.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569760le.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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After that I adjusted the connections of the wings to the fuselage.
There are round holes in the fuselage and semicircular sprues with edges at the wing roots.
This does not fit together.
A small needle file and sandpaper are enough for this work.
(https://up.picr.de/43569770pp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569782vy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569780wn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569787sg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569785uu.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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But also on the fuselage, the passage of the rear wing spar had to be reworked.
Oob here is only a small leather border indicated.
But this is not enough to make the spar passage halfway realistic.
I used a sharp tool to scrape the spar passage deeper into the fuselage.
Small note:
The metal plate on the cockpit is not glued, the picture was taken during the adjustment of the plate.
The spar passage before
(https://up.picr.de/43603888gj.jpg)
and after the rework
(https://up.picr.de/43603893cm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43603894hw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Of course, the rear spar of the wings had to be represented as well, otherwise the previous work would have made no sense.
In retrospect, I must say that I could have made the spar a little wider.
In the pictures, the adaptation of the Evergreen material to a spar.
(https://up.picr.de/43603896xr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43603895jr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43604006kh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The wing bracing connections were made with bifurcated fittings mounted on the spar.
On the model wings, small recesses are indicated at this point.
These were drilled out diagonally in the course of the direction of pull and suitably bent wire was glued in.
In the picture a first attempt. I used later somewhat thicker copper wire.
So that this gets the right metallic color I have annealed him over a candle flame.
(https://up.picr.de/43569698ak.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569699jx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569697ig.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569695ks.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
The wings were painted with Gunze "Radome".
(https://up.picr.de/43569704pj.jpg)
After that, the canvas reinforcement bands were displayed with lightened "radome".
Some masking work was necessary here.
(https://up.picr.de/43569705vv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569706je.jpg)
The next step was to paint the fabric band leading from the leading edge of the wing to the trailing edge with slightly less lightened "radome".
(https://up.picr.de/43569707rv.jpg)
Now the ribs had to be masked to show the nailed-on wooden rib rails.
(https://up.picr.de/43569708yy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569712gm.jpg)
I used oil paint here to represent the rib rails. If I had to do this work again, I would go for a lighter oil paint.
A light coat of Tamiya "Clear-Orange" sealed the oil paint.
(https://up.picr.de/43569714hi.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Here the result after the finished painting of the wings
(https://up.picr.de/43569716cf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569715bl.jpg)
The French cockades are decals from the kit.
The decals are very thin and nestle excellently to the surface structure.
The problem, only one of the four cockades could be attached without accident - the other three broke into several pieces.
But, I was able to manage it so that nothing of this accident can be seen.
(https://up.picr.de/43569723lz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569721bj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569718os.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43569710qy.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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After the decals were well dried, the wings were sealed with Tamiya "matt-clear".
A slightly blotchy color gradient was painted over them with very heavily thinned Gunze "Sand".
(https://up.picr.de/43569724qo.jpg)
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Afterwards again a sealing with Tamiya "matt-clear".
With various oil paints, the traces of aging and dirt were indicated on the wings.
(https://up.picr.de/43604179cs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43604180ib.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43604181ri.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43604178no.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43604182fk.jpg)
.... and ...... afterwards again a sealing with Tamiya "matt-clear". ;D
Small comment:
Good to see in the picture - the use of thicker, annealed copper wire for the wing bracing linkage mentioned in a previous post.
Servus
Bertl
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A Rotary-engine (in German: Umlaufmotor ;) ) is anything but a clean fellow.
Oil thrown around in combination with dust and dirt from the airfield makes the canvas covering of the aircraft look dirty and used very quickly.
To depict the castor oil and dirt, I used heavily diluted oil paint.
This was applied to the relevant areas with a small brush. Oil soaked canvas, spread over the wing, oil along the rib bands, oily dirt along the spars ... .
On the bottom of the wings more oil dirt than on topside and due to the rotation of the "Umlaufmotor" also on the left underside more oil dirt and dust.. .
(https://up.picr.de/43604220hd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43604219oi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43604224nh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43604222sx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43604223xs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43604225hm.jpg)
At this point with these pictures the topic wing is finished for now.
We will come back to this point later in the report.
I just wanted to show you a glimpse of the direction in which the coloring of the model will continue.
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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Excellent lesson on the wing attachment and especially the painting technique. I always learn a great deal from reading your posts. The subtle outlines of the oil stains are brilliant - suggesting the under-lying framework.
Cheers,
Gary
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I can only echo what Gary said - this is an excellent reference, Bertl, as well as being another stunning piece of work!
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Beautiful work and magnificent weathering. Well done!
Cheers,
BC
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@gedmundson
@KiwiZac
@Brad Cancian
Gary, Zac and Brad, thank you very much for your kind comments.
-
Now for the elevator.
The kit part looked very fragile and the appearance admitted the typical short-run pattern.
Indistinct casting and many flashes in the plastic.
I cut up the kit part and kept only the two elevators.
Both elevators were carefully drilled out with a drill bit so I could install a thin but sturdy brass tube as a bearing.
The two holes in the elevators are there so that I could glue the brass tube later without the super glue running into the hinge.
The hinge itself was created from simple plastic waste.
Two small strips left and right at the end of the fuselage.
That is all.
The big challenge was that the holes in the hinge had to be drilled exactly perpendicular to the course of the rudder.
(https://up.picr.de/43610854ex.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568670bc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568669tj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568673kj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568674zu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568671if.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
Here are more detailed pictures.
A very steady hand was needed to make the two hinges as small as possible, yet as sturdy as somehow possible.
I used small needle files and fine sandpaper here.
(https://up.picr.de/43568684mb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43568685qh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606179fr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606178yi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606177qm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Of course, two rudder horns were also needed.
I again used Wingnut Wings scrap plastic to carve the rudder horns.
A nice detail on the side:
In the German forum, Frank (You all know him as @Bughunter) commented that he would be very afraid to use plastic at this point.
He would advise me to use metal in this case.
I know Frank's build reports, he is the uncrowned master of soldering and finest metal work on his models.
I told him, soldering is not necessarily my world, I do better with plastic.
Well the truth is, I lack the tools, the skill and probably the patience to achieve such an excellent result as Frank, the boss of miniature soldering.
........ well, unfortunately he should be right - one of the hinges broke a few weeks later when I was working a bit carelessly on another part of the model.
(https://up.picr.de/43606172rk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606173nl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606175so.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606174lt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606171st.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606176bn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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The metal linkage to which the tail and the lower bearing of the rudder are attached is incorrectly shown on the model.
Changing this would have been too cumbersome with the kit parts.
For this reason, I built the linkage completely scratch.
It was made entirely from hot-drawn plastic-sprue over a candle flame.
(https://up.picr.de/43606182ks.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606181xu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606180vk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Again, the real challenge was to get the rudder mount exact to line up at right angles and in the correct position with the mount for the tail.
I think the following pictures explain this better than my (translated) words.
(https://up.picr.de/43610898ec.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606187lf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606186ee.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606185fq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606184xq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43606183nm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Oh yes, almost forgot to say:
My self-made control horns for the elevator were a bit too big, I had to carve them again - smaller and thinner
Here is the corrected version.
(https://up.picr.de/43610181zu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610180um.jpg)
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The elevator was now mounted movable, it could be moved from top to bottom and back without problems.
Now only the lateral play had to be eliminated, then it would fit perfectly.
Here I helped myself with custom made bushings, which were made from a thin aluminum tube.
These bushings are not glued to the finished model, it is sufficient if they are simply pushed over the brass tube as spacers.
(https://up.picr.de/43610187gm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610186yw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610185ik.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610183uz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610184ny.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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This is So Impressive I don't think I am even worthy of comment 8)
RAGIII
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Rudder and fin were painted in the first step with Gunze "Radome".
After that, the rudder got a coat of gloss white from Tamiya.
(https://up.picr.de/43610251xb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610250ax.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610249yz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610244gp.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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no comment
Spyros
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Woooow. Jaw hit the desk. This is mind-blowing.
Andreas
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It's a pleasure looking at works like this!
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Thank you RAGIII, Spyros, Andreas and andonio.
I am very happy to read your approval.
Now a little break from the tail unit, let's turn to the cockpit.
There are some instruments and components oob, but none of them really impressed me.
I'll start with the air pump.
This is included in the box, but I'm not sure if it was really necessary.
In principle, the fuel system in the Morane works like a motorcycle.
Fuel-Tank above the carburetor, due to gradient and gravity, petrol runs to the carburetor.
Well, it may be that this caused problems on the plane and it was better to fly with a slight overpressure in the fuel tank.
Regardless, the air pump was completely scratch built.
I needed a brass tube, various plastic rods and some steel wire.
glue and some paint, of course.
First, the Kit-part
(https://up.picr.de/43610909sq.jpg)
Now a brass tube cut to size with a plastic rod as an end cap.
(https://up.picr.de/43610915ut.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610914fn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610912uj.jpg)
A hole is drilled in the end cap and the steel wire inserted. A thin round plastic rod was glued to the end of the steel wire.
(https://up.picr.de/43610913tz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610921nt.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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A thicker plastic rod was used to represent the both metal retaining clamps.
For this purpose, a hole was drilled which corresponded to the diameter of the brass tube.
I cut off two thin slices with a sharp scalpel blade and pushed them onto the brass tube.
(https://up.picr.de/43610922qr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610925sn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610924qn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Here you can see how the wooden handle of the air pump is made.
The contours of the handle were created with extremely small round files.
(https://up.picr.de/43610928ac.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610927vg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610926kv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The pump ultimately consists of only eight parts.
The brass body, two clamps, a base and a cover, the piston rod with stopper and the handle.
(https://up.picr.de/43610932at.jpg)
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Lightly sand and polish with steel wool, add some paint - done.
The little thing works 8)
(https://up.picr.de/43610933ay.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610931si.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610935yo.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Here the air pump is attached in the cockpit.
.....something faint to see, the hole in the end cap.
From there, the pressure line runs via a shut-off valve to the Fueltank.
(https://up.picr.de/43610945kp.jpg)
That's all for today.
Maybe I'll get around to posting more pictures next week.
Thank you for watching - I wish you all a nice week. ;)
Servus
Bertl
-
(https://media4.giphy.com/media/TKeOAQlzwVLkAi7WBM/200w.webp?cid=ecf05e47juoh9bw0nhushc6r813pw98tg6p58mkrs80cond8&rid=200w.webp&ct=g)
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This is So Impressive I don't think I am even worthy of comment 8)
RAGIII
Me too - I just shake my head in amazement!!
-
Champions League!!!
Willem
-
Thank you all so much for your wonderful comments. ;D
Servus
Bertl
-
The next instrument in the Morane's cockpit was the altimeter.
Again, the kit part was not to my liking.
A plastic part with a casting ridge and a film as a dial.
Not so bad the kit-part, but it would have taken too much of my patience to build an altimeter usable for my project from this piece of plastic.
(https://up.picr.de/43612072wd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43612071sa.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43612070vo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43612069np.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
I made myself a new altimeter out of scrap plastic.
A ww1 cockpit decal from airscale and the clear part of a packaging were also used.
The kit part served me as a template.
Here I took the appropriate dimensions.
An original picture of the cockpit and various photos of a museum altimeter served me for detailing.
Here the decals:
(https://up.picr.de/43612077es.jpg)
And here the waste plastic-sprues:
(https://up.picr.de/43612079pa.jpg)
From these plastic sprues I filed myself two round bars of different thickness.
Here it was important that the thinner rod fit exactly into the thicker one.:
(https://up.picr.de/43612083xn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43612081xz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43612085ky.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43612084jp.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The next step:
Cut a narrow ring from the thicker round bar.
I used a resin saw for this.
(https://up.picr.de/43612076yl.jpg)
The ring was reworked with file and sandpaper according to my mind.
Now a suitable part was punched out of the clear part of the packaging which was used as a glass pane.
(https://up.picr.de/43612092kf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43612091id.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43612098xa.jpg)
The finished ring serves as a bezel for the altimeter housing.
Here with the corresponding decal
(https://up.picr.de/43612096yx.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The next step:
Cut a narrow ring from the thicker round bar.
I used a resin saw for this.
The ring was reworked with file and sandpaper according to my mind.
Now a suitable part was punched out of the clear part of the packaging which was used as a glass pane.
:o :o :o - and now comes the part when you have the outer casing of the altimeter and make the inner parts to make it functional. ;)
What you do is absolutely amazing Bertl, I'm speechless...
-
The thinner plastic rod is modeled into an altimeter housing using a needle file and grinding tool.
(https://up.picr.de/43612094dd.jpg)
Here in the picture the cover on the housing.
The cover - or the bezel - is ground even smaller in the outer diameter.
(https://up.picr.de/43612095ok.jpg)
The altimeter case has now been painted in Nato black.
A challenge was to place the decal exactly in the center of the housing.
(https://up.picr.de/43612097tm.jpg)
The bezel was provided with small holes on the edge to indicate the screws.
It was painted with Mr. Metalcolor "brass
(https://up.picr.de/43612104ze.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43612103ay.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43612102bg.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Great to see you back and watch another masterpiece in the works, Bertl!
Excellent progress so far and thanks for sharing the inspirative methods you use.
Cheers
Ondra
-
The altimeter was mounted on a wooden board in the original.
This wooden board itself was screwed on the left side in the front area of the cockpit.
The wooden board was made from a piece of waste plastic.
(there is a lot of Wingnut Wing waste plastic in the model) ;)
(https://up.picr.de/43612101uz.jpg)
After the wooden board was fixed in the cockpit it was painted with Gunze "Radome".
I did the wood grain with oil paint.
(https://up.picr.de/43612105os.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43612107kv.jpg)
The scratch built altimeter has not yet been installed in the model.
This was actually done towards the end of the build so that it could not be damaged.
(https://up.picr.de/43612106gn.jpg)
Here is the only really meaningful picture of the cockpit that I found on the web.
The altimeter is very prominent here.
(https://up.picr.de/43612109md.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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@Beto
Thank you Beto.
Well, the altimeter does not work - unfortunately >:( .... ;D
But the air pump can be moved ::)
And if you have patience, there is still an instrument coming which will be movable...... but more on that later ;)
@ondra
Thank you very much ondra for the praise. :D
-
Now a tiny little something to finish off for today.
The ignition switch.
Completely scratch built from various materials such as Evergreen rod, copperwire and - of course - waste plastic from Wingnut ::)
The pictures in order of how the part was built.
Part one:
(https://up.picr.de/43619539ko.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43619540kp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43619544zk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43619546zm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43619547ek.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43619548xd.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Part two:
(https://up.picr.de/43619550nx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43619551zb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43619553xn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43619555nx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43619556ge.jpg)
Here is the last picture, the ignition switch installed in the cockpit on the left cockpit rail.
The small toggle switch is clearly visible. The copper wire was annealed and flattened with pliers so that it looks similar to the original.
And yes, this thing is really tiny. ;D
(https://up.picr.de/43619538ut.jpg)
That was it for today.
See you soon.
Servus
Bertl
-
That was it for today.
:o jaw = dropped hard. WOW.
-
INCREDIBLE!
RAGIII
-
Gobsmacked!
Stephen.
-
Thank you so much Zac, Rick and Stephen.
Servus
Bertl
-
The next instrument in the cockpit is a pulsometer.
This small and very finely rendered instrument is from Taurus.
A bit of paint, a fuel line made of painted copper wire, a selfmade wooden board, plus a shut-off valve for the air pump.
Nothing more is needed.
(https://up.picr.de/43649717ij.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649715fv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649714ug.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649713ko.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649721ju.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The pulsometer-board is mounted on the left side of the cockpit, above the air pump.
(https://up.picr.de/43649723ym.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649722np.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649724dp.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Exquisite!
-
"nothing more is needed"!
This must be the understatement of the whole website!
I'm scared this aeroplane is going to actually take off and fly away.
Perfection.
Sandy
-
@macspooan
Believe me Sandy, I came close to actually flying it several times while building the model ... ;D
@KiwiZac
Thank you Zac ;)
Servus
Bertl
-
Now to the next, very important instrument for the pilot.
Without this thing, many - on both sides - would not have found their way home.
I think you know which instrument I mean, it is the compass.
It was even included in the kit ... well, not the parts, but at least the material for it was mostly included 8)
The first picture was the only original picture of the cockpit I could find.
This picture served me as a template for all scratch installations in the cockpit.
(https://up.picr.de/43654348nr.png)
I again used some scrap plastic, this time from the kit, but also from WNW.
First the compass housing was needed.
A small lead ball was used to represent the curved lower bottom cap.
In the pictures you can also often see the tool I used - all no witchcraft.
(https://up.picr.de/43649765qn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649766oh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649767xl.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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The future housing was provided with a 0.4mm hole on the side
(https://up.picr.de/43649768bs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649769ne.jpg)
I inserted a 0.4mm brass tube into this cross hole as a bearing....
Later a wire will be glued into the tube, therefore the tube must be re-drilled again with a 0.2mm drill.
(https://up.picr.de/43649773ug.jpg)
Now the lead ball is glued in place.
The housing is almost finished ... almost.
(https://up.picr.de/43649774ss.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The compass housing is now inserted into a ring in which it is movably mounted.
The material for this ring - of course, again waste plastic.
The steps are almost the same as for the housing.
(https://up.picr.de/43649775hj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649777jb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649778iy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649779jz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The principle can be seen in the following pictures.
A CNC drill inserted through the brass tube serves as the bearing shaft at the moment.
(https://up.picr.de/43649771ws.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649783ja.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649782lf.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Compass housing and ring also need a mount.
This bracket will be semi-circular in shape.
Finding the right material was the biggest challenge in this case.
It is very rare to find sprues with such a large diameter in the box.
Anyway, in the next pictures very easy to see, the evolution from waste sprue to a compass mount.
(https://up.picr.de/43649784sg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649790xj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649789lw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649791vn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Now the bracket for the bracket is needed.
Yes, again waste plastic.
(https://up.picr.de/43649793vr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649795vm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649794vl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649796ju.jpg)
The eagle-eyed viewers will have spotted the two short brass tubes in the semicircle.
These are needed as bearings.
Four resin screws are used to represent the screw connection from the compass to the aircraft
(https://up.picr.de/43649799qa.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The first components are painted.
Tamiya "semi-gloss-black" mixed with a drop of light gray.
(https://up.picr.de/43649808ui.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649801sf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649792ed.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
....Holy Smokies!!!!
Steve
-
The base plate for the compass decal, the bezel and the glass pane were punched out of various plastic materials.
OK, the punching in the bezel is not 100% in the middle ::)
(https://up.picr.de/43649797za.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649798bj.jpg)
The base plate is painted glossy white and the decal is placed in the center.
(https://up.picr.de/43649800oh.jpg)
A tiny drop of vallejo acrylic water texture is used to glue the base plate onto the compass housing.
The glass plate is then glued onto the decal on top, also with "vallejo awt"
(https://up.picr.de/43649813vz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649811tu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649814sr.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The brass bezel is painted with Mr. Metalcolor "Brass".
After drying, glued with vallejo awt.
Vallejo awt has the advantage that it dries completely transparent without leaving any traces.
The disadvantage is that it is basically not a glue at all.
So you have to work very carefully so that the glued parts can not be shifted.
(https://up.picr.de/43649810lg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649816vi.jpg)
The edge around the bezel was made with bare-metal foil.
The actual compass housing is now finished.
(https://up.picr.de/43649806pc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649823mb.jpg)
Vallejo Still water, or water texture (awt), is needed to represent water.
In the following link you cand find a video which explains the processing very well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0y4chY7hwM
Servus
Bertl
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....Jumpin!!!!
Steve
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In the pictures you can still see the provisional attachment with long and soft copper wire.
The housing is later fixed in the ring with small pins made of hard copper wire.
The housing can be moved laterally in the ring.
(https://up.picr.de/43649825gt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649824uj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43649821aq.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now the housing and ring are installed in the semicircular - bracket.
Yes, the thing is now completely movable.
No, the compass does not show the cardinal direction ::)
(https://up.picr.de/43655552ug.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43655551sv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43655557cw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43655556uz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43655554kh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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This is the place in the cockpit where the compass will be mounted later.
The mounting is done quite at the end before the fuel and oil tank are fixed.
Damaging the compass otherwise seemed very high to me. :-\
(https://up.picr.de/43655569xp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43655571ho.jpg)
So, I think that's enough with the compass for today.
See you soon.
Servus
Bertl
-
(https://i.postimg.cc/NFbRyH57/hats-off.jpg)
Willem
-
Thank you very much Willem and Steve ;D
The next gap in the cockpit which must be closed.
The oil and fuel-tank.
I think you guessed it already? ???
Yes, waste plastic ;)
In principle a very simple matter.
Measure, cut, glue, grind, drill, set rivets, install filler neck, gasoline and oil feed valve. Paint on it - done.
(https://up.picr.de/43656241ak.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656240mz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656245gf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656244zg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656246la.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The tank is fixed in the cockpit at the later installation position with Tamiya tape.
After that, the fairing is put on.
The opening of the filler neck can be seen on the fairing.
There, the position on the tank is marked with a drill to be able to install the front wall of the fuel tank at the correct position.
(https://up.picr.de/43656254dz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656255tp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656252ls.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The front wall of the tank is glued on.
(https://up.picr.de/43656253vz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656256ma.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656257ed.jpg)
After a position check, the top side of the tank is adjusted to the inner contour of the fairing.
(https://up.picr.de/43656260sf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656261kw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656263fi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656262rz.jpg)
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The glued seams are sanded with a file and sandpaper.
(https://up.picr.de/43656266of.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656265rz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656264qf.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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To make the gas tank look as real as possible, small rivets were depicted.
(https://up.picr.de/43656268ow.jpg)
The oil filler neck is also in place.
In these pictures you can see very well how thin the upper sheet metal covering was sanded.
(https://up.picr.de/43656278co.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656271sx.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The tank was now primed with black paint and then painted with Mr. Metalcolor "brass".
There is a possibility that the brass sheet was originally painted with light gray paint, but I personally like the idea better that he was unpainted.
Because of weight or whatever the reasons could have been.
(https://up.picr.de/43656280vp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656285lh.jpg)
The connection point from the filler neck to the tank was indicated in silver color to show the soldering.
(https://up.picr.de/43656297dj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656290gr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43656300dh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The oil tank attached in front of the gasoline tank got a shut-off valve and the oil line on the bottom.
The end of the oil line is flanged to the oil pump on the front firewall.
Traces of oil was represented with Tamiya "Smoke".
(https://up.picr.de/43656334ux.jpg)
The oil line was attached to the nozzle with two hose clamps. This is thin wire which was used here to represent the clamps.
Note the hole in the drain nozzle of the gasoline tank, where the actuator for the gasoline tap will be mounted later.
(https://up.picr.de/43656310oy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657264ob.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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My hats are off to you, sir! Incredible craftsmanship and attention to detail!
Cheers
Ondra
-
Thank you very much @Ondra. :D
Servus
Bertl
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The next step will be to fill the space below the fuel tank.
Again, there are no parts for this in the box.
This means that scratch building must be done here.
I'm telling you, it's going to be tight, in front of the pilot's legs 8)
Now, for the representation of the carburetor, I used a spare part from a Copper State Nieuport XVII kit.
Of course, the spare part carburetor could not be mounted on the Morane without massive rework.
But more about that next week.
So you can imagine what is coming - see picture.
(https://up.picr.de/43657347lu.png)
I wish you all a great week.
.... see you soon
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
.... see you soon
Not too soon I hope, I need time to recover! Simply incredible!!
-
I am watching and admiring. Speechless.
-
I remain gobsmacked and like Prez, speechless.
Stephen.
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SPECTACULAR
Alexis
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No Words to describe your work are adequate!
RAGIII
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Beautiful work.
WD
-
Many thanks to all of you for your kind comments.
Thank you also for visiting the build report of the little Morane.
Zac, I hope there are no problems that I'm posting new pictures so soon? ??? ...... ;)
Servus
Bertl
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Intake manifold, carburetor, air intake pipes, fuel and oil lines, ignition distributor etc., await you in the next pictures.
As already written, if the model is built oob, then almost everything in the cockpit remains empty.
Ok, let's start.
Directly behind the carburetor housing is a flange with holes.
At these holes, the complete intake housing is clamped to the cockpit frame via pipes/brackets and/or steel cables.
I created the flange from waste plastic.
(https://up.picr.de/43657359kr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657363pi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657360yb.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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the next components to be created were the air intake pipes.
I used aluminum tubes which I filed thinner in diameter over the entire length.
At the point where the air intake pipes come out of the fuselage, a reinforcing plate was mounted from thin Evergreen cards.
(https://up.picr.de/43657368hg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657367ie.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657372wi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657373ie.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657371pd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657370zx.jpg)
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The rear panel of the motor housing was also made of simple plastic card.
The screw connection is indicated by small holes.
(https://up.picr.de/43657375pd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657377wm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The oil pump with the connection for the oil line was made of Evergreen plastic.
Likewise the ignition distributor.
All lines and pipe connections were represented either with copper wire or solder wire.
(https://up.picr.de/43657389fe.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657388cx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657393fd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657392ig.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657390dw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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First primer, then Mr. Metalcolor "Stainless
(https://up.picr.de/43657395cc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657394qg.jpg)
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Now the details were painted.
(https://up.picr.de/43657400px.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657399ur.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657398fq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657397wd.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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First oil traces were represented with Tamiya "Smoke".
(https://up.picr.de/43657404ge.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657403wl.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The next step was a washing with dark brown, very diluted oil paint.
(https://up.picr.de/43657413qk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657412bm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657410tk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Finally, the entire front fire wall was covered with heavy oil spills.
Don't forget, Rotary engines are very dirty cronies.
Here is the intake and carburetor installation mounted to the front firewall.
(https://up.picr.de/43657422ts.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43657420ud.jpg)
That's it for today, see you soon.
(@Zac, I try to delay the next picture posting a little bit)
Servus
Bertl
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Awesome stuff !
Alexis
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This build report should be printed and published as a book. i‘d buy it (even as an untranslated Bavarian original ;))
Andreas
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This build report should be printed and published as a book. i‘d buy it (even as an untranslated Bavarian original ;))
Andreas
I totally agree!
Willem
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Bertl, this level of detail is just outstanding. I do hope you are going to leave some panels off so this fantastic work can be seen. It would be such a pity to hide it away inside.
Sandy
-
Amazing work, Bertl.
As Sandy says, I hope you can find a way to make the detail visible.
-
(https://media2.giphy.com/media/BWil6X0F7a1mE/giphy.gif?cid=ecf05e47tuiet5mc0h5sp12hyba3joakvz2oaj42eus6jnm0&rid=giphy.gif&ct=g)
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(@Zac, I try to delay the next picture posting a little bit)
I thought it was safe to go back onto the forums... ;) ;D My goodness Bertl, your extra work on this is nothing short of incredible!!
(https://media2.giphy.com/media/BWil6X0F7a1mE/giphy.gif?cid=ecf05e47tuiet5mc0h5sp12hyba3joakvz2oaj42eus6jnm0&rid=giphy.gif&ct=g)
I wholeheartedly agree.
-
Amazing miniature engineering followed by incredible paint and weathering!!
Steve
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Amazing miniature engineering followed by incredible paint and weathering!!
Steve
Yep!
RAGIII
-
Hello together,
Thank you very much for your kind comments.
Thank you also for visiting the build report.
Some of the details - not all - can be seen through the cockpit opening.
I did not mount an open maintenance hatch or similar on the model.
Servus
Bertl
-
We turn back to the right side of the cockpit.
In the only original image available to me, a part of the throttle quadrant is still visible.
This is used to regulate the mixture and the carburetor via two different levers.
On the model, unfortunately, one looks for this in vain - there are no parts for it in the box.
So scratch build again.
Again I used Wingnut waste plastic.
Small files, drill, sandpaper and a lot of patience.
First, the original image.
(https://up.picr.de/43672993jj.png)
This is where the carving begins.
(https://up.picr.de/43672958pd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43672957bx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43672959gf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43672960zt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43672961xj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
The two levers for mixture and carburetor regulation were made of the same plastic.
(https://up.picr.de/43672965hk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43672963ew.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43672964rl.jpg)
The two levers are actually mounted movably, but this had a rather negative effect later on.
I ended up gluing them on.
(https://up.picr.de/43672966gy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43672968sk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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A little paint on it and the throttle quadrant could be installed in the cockpit.
With the longer lever on the outside the carburetor is regulated.
With the short lever the mixture is regulated.
(https://up.picr.de/43672969eh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The mixture controller.
A small but very complex component.
I have scratch built several mixture controllers, but was not so satisfied with the results.
One of the selfmade regulators consisted of more than 15 parts - tiny parts.
That was unmanageable in the end.
The parts broke between the fingers ::)
I had already gotten used to the idea of doing without this component, until by chance I found the exact right part,
in the box of the CSM-Nieuport XVII.
Only a "special holder" had to be made so that it could be mounted in the cockpit of the Morane.
(https://up.picr.de/43672972kq.jpg)
In order for the mixture regulator to be mounted in the correct position, it had to be ensured that it was not in the way of any other component.
Here is the inspection view through the fuselage opening for the two intake pipes.
There is very little space between the intake manifold and the mixture control.
(https://up.picr.de/43672976lf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43672977xn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43672986jn.jpg)
As linkage from the lever to the mixture control I used a 0,15mm thick copper wire.
(https://up.picr.de/43672987cd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43672985yq.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
Now the fuel line is routed from the mixture regulator to the carburetor.
I used copper wire 0.2mm thick here.
The wire was annealed over a candle flame so that the wire is easier to bend.
The connection points on the carburetor were drilled with a 0.3mm drill so that the wire (the fuel line) could be inserted.
(https://up.picr.de/43714907kd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43714908ge.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43714906ni.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43714913tx.jpg)
That was all for today.
See you soon
Servus
Bertl
-
Bertl, as always with you, this build is also exceptionally good. I am impressed every time by your eye for detail and your precise way of working.
Your way of modeling is very inspiring, thank you for sharing !
Kind regards
Jörg
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I continue to be amazed at your scratchbuilding skills, Bertl. Taking lumps of plastic and creating very realistic miniature parts from them. And your painting & weathering makes them look the part. Do you get it right first time? I typically make three little things before even one of them is the correct shape/size ;)
Cheers,
Gary
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I just don't know what to say anymore.
You scratch microscopic parts from left over sprues. I took me 7 tries to get the parts for my tailplane right and I used a truck load of Evergreen in the process.
I think you could build three aircraft from what's in my scrap box now.
Willem
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What Willem said, and then some. Like him, I'm out of superlatives for this build.
WD
-
Oh my, what a pleasure it is to follow your builds with step-by-step reports...
-
Very nice work. Soon there will be no more room for details in the cockpit!
-
Just echoing what everyone else has said!
RAGIII
-
I continue to be amazed at your scratchbuilding skills, Bertl. Taking lumps of plastic and creating very realistic miniature parts from them. And your painting & weathering makes them look the part. Do you get it right first time? I typically make three little things before even one of them is the correct shape/size ;)
Cheers,
Gary
Hi Gary,
First, thanks for your kind comment.
Now to your question:
Most of the scratch built parts will work on the first try, but these are usually the larger parts like compass, throttle quadrant, air pump etc. .
Smaller parts can take three, four or more tries ::)
There are also days when it doesn't matter which part you try, nothing works >:(
Then it is best to try again the next day.
Servus
Bertl
-
Bertl, as always with you, this build is also exceptionally good. I am impressed every time by your eye for detail and your precise way of working.
Your way of modeling is very inspiring, thank you for sharing !
Kind regards
Jörg
Thank you very much, Jörg for your warm comment. ;D
Servus
Bertl
-
I just don't know what to say anymore.
You scratch microscopic parts from left over sprues. I took me 7 tries to get the parts for my tailplane right and I used a truck load of Evergreen in the process.
I think you could build three aircraft from what's in my scrap box now.
Willem
Thank you very much, Willem for your kind comment.
I know what you describe.
There were parts - not on the Morane, but on the WNW LVG C-VI - , that I would have liked to throw against the wall, because my hands did not bring together what my brain wanted ::)
Servus
Bertl
-
@WD, @PrzemoL, @kensar and @Rick
Thank you very much, I'm glad you like this build report.
Servus
Bertl
-
One little thing, the glue seam in front of the wooden bottom board.
I was not sure if this will actually be covered by the scratch work on the carburetor.
I used simple 0.20mm thin plastic sheet to cover the seam.
(https://up.picr.de/43717604ip.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43717606cw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43717612lw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43717602tw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The front firewall, with the Fuel tank on top, is now attached to the model and glued.
From this moment on I only had the possibility to work with thin tweezers when I wanted to work on the carburetor or underneath the tank.
Very tricky :-\
In these pictures you can see the further course of the fuel line from the mixture regulator to the carburetor.
(https://up.picr.de/43717905vv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43717895vv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43717902xj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43717899vx.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
To ensure that gasoline can also flow through the lines, we need a gasoline tap.
The fuel tap is located in a recess (fuel sump) below the tank.
To allow the pilot to open or close it as needed, a long operating rod was attached to the right side of the cockpit.
You can see it here in the original picture.
(https://up.picr.de/43718286qz.jpg)
On the model, this operating rod was made from casting branches hot-drawn over a flame.
The end of the operating rod is also attached to the model - as in the original - under the tank in the gasoline sump.
The fuel line runs below the fuel cock, past the compass, to the mixture control.
This can be seen in the last picture.
The fuel line is not yet attached to the tank.
(https://up.picr.de/43718293gm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43718291tc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43718318fk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Here is the built of the operating rod and the bracket.
A fairly simple component.
Waste plasic of course ::)
(https://up.picr.de/43718288bo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43718289bl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43718278iq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43718294wm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43718296fi.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The fuel tap is installed in the cockpit, now.
Slowly you can see the tightness in front of the pilots.
There is not much space.
(https://up.picr.de/43718284lw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43718279ap.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43718283hv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43718281kn.jpg)
...... still some color on it and .... done.
(https://up.picr.de/43718363pv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The linkage for carburetor regulation also had to be scratch-built.
A tiny bracket was built from scrap plastic.
Fortunately, I found a suitable bell crank in the parts box.
The carburetor adjustment runs from the long lever on the throttle quadrant via a linkage to the diverter. From there a long rod leads directly to the actuating lever on the carburetor.
The position of the lever and the position of the linkage was placed on the model so that it could work from the point of view.
Here was not the problem to make the small parts, that was "child's play".
The real challenge was to fit all the levers, brackets, linkages into the cockpit.
It only worked with very sharp tweezers.
I had to work with 2K glue (UHU Plus 2 minutes).
I needed a glue that did not drip, did not flow away and remained workable long enough.
All parts were installed unpainted, so that means work with a very fine brush, do not wiggle shake or anything else.
Hold your breath works quite well to stay calm 8)
(https://up.picr.de/43718338tx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43718339ty.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43720120jh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
Good, the space under the fuel tank is now well filled ;)
Let's turn to the space above.
The MG was not fed with ammunition drum or ammunition belt in the French version.
On the Hotchkiss, ammo rods were used (sorry - I can't find a better word for it right now).
These ammo rods were stored in front of the pilot, directly on top of the oil tank in a wooden box.
This wooden box is now being built.
In principle a very simple thing, but the plastic for the box had to be very very thin.
The box had to fit between the fuel tank and the oil filler neck and it had to be possible to install an ammunition rod in the box.
The upper engine and tank cover had to be milled extremely thin on the inside for this.
(https://up.picr.de/43720142uq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43720138go.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43720144fl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43720152zo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43720151qh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
The box is now filled with a strip of ammunition.
I used the kit parts here, also the etched part is included in the kit.
The cartridges are painted with Mr. Metalcolor "Brass", the "bullets" with "Copper".
After drying, the ammunition was polished.
The etched part was annealed over a candle flame and remains unpainted.
(https://up.picr.de/43720158le.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43720157iv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43720162sn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43720161ou.jpg)
That's all for today.
Hope you like the progress of construction.
See you again soon.
Servus
Bertl
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Just gets better and better!
Sandy
-
Bertl, this just gets more amazing with every post.
I believe the correct term for that ammunition storage is "clip".
WD
-
Bertl, this just gets more amazing with every post.
"Speechless" seems inadequate to describe my reaction to these last posts. Simply exquisite work!!
-
Thank you very much, @Sandy, @WD and @Zac.
@WD
thanks for the right word - at least it sounds much better ;D
Servus
Bertl
-
A small incident by the way:
With this model I was confronted with problems which I had not had before.
On the left half of the fuselage, the top of the plastic began to peel off during construction.
I don't know why, it only occurred on the front part of the fuselage.
No solvents or anything like that were associated with the plastic.
In the end, my only options were to throw the model in the trash or do a cosmetic surgery.
I decided on the latter ::)
Partially there are more "air pockets" under the surface, these are the lighter milky spots on the surface.
However, I have not opened these - I hope that no further damage to the surface happens here.
Have any of you ever had such problems?
(https://up.picr.de/43726633sq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726632cs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726639mf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726637we.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726636lx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726635zm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
That's very odd, Bertl - I've built a few SH kits and never come across something like this.
-
Well, the cockpit is crammed with parts, it's time to put the "lid" on.
But first, some work is necessary on the "lid".
The upper fairing was - as already described - partly milled massively thinner on the inside.
The well visible edge should fit the scale of the model in terms of material thickness.
In addition, the openings for the pipe linkage which supports the MG to the rear were opened in the fairing.
Like on the spinner, the missing rivets on the upper fairing were replaced by copper wire.
Here in the original picture the presence of the rivet rows can be seen very well.
(https://up.picr.de/43731066hh.png)
(https://up.picr.de/43726625no.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726618kt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726616vs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726624uu.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
The cover was painted on the inside with Mr. Metalcolor "Aluminum" and dabbed with "Stainless".
Then gently polished.
Glued was with extra thin, liquid plastic glue.
Also very nice to see in the pictures, the dented and liver damaged engine cover.
(https://up.picr.de/43726628sh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726627rv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726626it.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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On the original, a thin rectangular plate was riveted to the engine cover as a muzzle flash protector.
Unfortunately, this is missing on the model.
Thin plastic sheet is sufficient to represent the sheet.
Hot drawn sprue was used to show the rivets.
Here is a picture during production.
(https://up.picr.de/43726663iz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726664xl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726662hc.jpg)
The Morane logo, unfortunately missing from the kit, was also glued to both sides of the engine cover.
A hole was drilled at the correct position and the logo was glued from the inside with 2K glue.
After the glue had cured, it was milled off on the inside.
Before the logos were glued to the fairing, I rounded them slightly with a thick brush handle to match the curvature of the engine cover.
(https://up.picr.de/43726661is.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726659dj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now the fuselage is painted.
First, along the longerons - for this, "Radome" from Gunze, whitened with white, was used.
Then the longerons are masked with 0.5mm narrow tape.
(https://up.picr.de/43726643nq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726647bg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726646gs.jpg)
After that, a mixture of matte black and dark gray is used to paint on the first traces of Castor oil.
Somewhat stronger on the underside, medium on the left and weaker on the right.
Due to its rotary motion, the engine spins and spreads a little more oil on the left side as seen in the direction of flight.
The canvas soaks up oil, but primarily the oil (and dirt) spreads along the longerons - where the canvas fabric also "stretches" directly over it.
(https://up.picr.de/43726652ou.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726651xy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726650hi.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now carefully peel off the thin masking strips along the longerons....
(https://up.picr.de/43726657jw.jpg)
.... and the fuselage is then lightly airbrushed with "Radome" as a test.
(https://up.picr.de/43726656ne.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726655sp.jpg)
Yep, it works ... the oil dirt and lighter longerons are clearly visible.
Now the complete fuselage is painted with thinned Radome.
This needs to be somewhat glazing though, don't paint an opaque coat of paint.
(https://up.picr.de/43726660nj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726658sa.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Now the black fabric stripes are painted on
These black borders were also applied to the fin and elevator.
I used Tamiya tape for this - the white tape is also from Tamiya and is very easy to stick around tight corners.
The stripes were painted with Tamiya Semi-gloss-Black , mixed with a drop of Brown.
(https://up.picr.de/43726668xn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726667sn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726666dw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726672av.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726671tw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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I was not able to satisfactorily mask off the Tail-skid mounting linkage.
A little trick helps here so that the strips can still be attached.
An old unneeded decal is painted and the required strips are cut from it.
If it is done cleanly, then the difference is not noticeable.
(https://up.picr.de/43726673ho.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726675qt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726674jr.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
::) ::) ::)
Magic!
-
Bertl, another excellent update! The rendering of the rivets is very well done. Is there a reason why you use copper wire one time and stretched sprue another?
Kind regards
Jörg
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Thank you Bob and Jorgo ;D
@Jorgo
Jörg, the copper wires need a lot of grinding until they look like rivet heads.
On the thin plastic of the muzzle flash protector far too risky for me.
I was worried that too much material would be ground off from the thin white plastic.
Therefore here "plastic rivets".
Servus
Bertl
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The next step is to paint the Cowling.
On most of the original pictures you can see that the upper paint layer (black on the French type "N" and later red on the English "Bullet") is peeling off very quickly and very heavily.
Presumably, it was only painted on the raw aluminum sheet, without any primers, etc.
The weight also played a role.
Due to the weather and the strong oil mist, these characteristic paint flakes are very typical for this aircraft.
Of course, this should also be shown on the model.
As a primer, a medium gray paint was used.
The raw aluminum sheet was imitated with Mr.Metalcolor "Aluminum" and "Stainless".
(https://up.picr.de/43732821ds.png)
(https://up.picr.de/43726676nz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726677bw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726679zr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726678xx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726680tf.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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You are doing some amazing and beautiful work, Bertl! This is a wonderful and detailed lesson to us all on really detailing and improving a kit beyond the good - it is simply superb! Thank You for the detailed explanations, us ordinary modellers learn so much more with every post, there is so much we can try to incorporate in our own models! Regards, Marc.
-
@Monty
What a great compliment! :o
Many heartfelt thanks, Marc.
Servus
Bertl
-
There are various methods to lift surface color from the underground.
Salt technique, hairspray technique, various expensive chipping miracle secret agents, all sorts of things.
On this model, I opted for the simplest variant:
Semi-liquid masking agent dabbed on with a sponge.
Dabbed on all relevant areas - more masking was used on the side and underneath the fuselage, where the effects of the castor oil are strongly felt - and then painted on the surface color (Tamiya semi-gloss-black with a small drop of light gray).
Immediately after painting, the masking agent was removed with pointed tweezers.
Now additional black paint was removed with a medium-hard brush and warm water.
Yes, you are right, this looks very ugly at first sight :o
But wait .....
(https://up.picr.de/43726687nv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726689tl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726690qa.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726691br.jpg)
..... until soon.
Servus
Bertl
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Beautiful work!! Cant wait for the next instalment
Steve
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Thanks Steve, the next batch will follow. ;D
Servus
Bertl
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Now the paint chips are dampened with Tamiya "Smoke".
The complete engine cowling is fogged with "Smoke".
On the underside and on the right side, however, much stronger.
The color "Smoke" is very well suited for the representation of oil contamination.
But not too much of it, it should be applied glazed.
(https://up.picr.de/43735905mm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726696oa.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726695cq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726694iw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43726693zw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The engine cowling and the base of the fuselage paint are now complete.
But this is only the temporary state.
The model still looks a bit pale and lifeless.
Note the heavily thinned edge of the upper cowling.
This was originally almost 1mm thick.
Now it is only a few tenths of a millimeter.
Just a tip:
Wherever possible without compromising the strength of the material, mill the edges thinner. It looks much better from the scale effect and makes the model look more realistic.
(https://up.picr.de/43735917vt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735916pq.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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On the type "N", the fabric covering on the left side of the fuselage could be opened.
This was also necessary to be able to repair the inner frames or steering cables in the event of damage by shelling.
Of course also to be able to remove the fabric cover if necessary.
A similar situation can be seen on other fabric-covered aircraft fuselages.
On the model this time, I made it extremely easy for myself to show the fabric seam.
The fabric strip at the seam was painted with "sail-color" and the rest was simply painted with colored pencils.
Works fine for the normal eye of the beholder ..... and after weathering, it even looks quite usable.
(https://up.picr.de/43735921cw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735922et.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735923xk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735920du.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
Now it's time to add more castor oil to the fabric.
And again Tamiya "Smoke" does a good job here.
(https://up.picr.de/43735925hp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735924cf.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The cover image of the box shows a beautiful weathered Morane.
In particular, I like this brownish-beige shade exceptionally well and looks very convincing in my opinion.
Well, beige is the hull of my Morane, the shade "Radome" takes care of that.
I was thinking about it and tested several color combinations, but I achieved the best effect for my project by spraying the entire model several times with a very thin "Sand" color.
The color symbol on the back of the fuselage indicates which pilot flew this Morane in the original.
BTW:
I have already noticed that on the back of the fuselage there is still a (very) small stripe white primer on the edge of the red field, but I have not yet managed to fix it ::)
(https://up.picr.de/43521265ds.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735934vj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735933gw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735932qw.jpg)
A really small fighter, this Morane-Saulnier Type "N".
Here in the picture still everything without weathering
(https://up.picr.de/43735935sd.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
Jedi Master at work :o
(https://media1.giphy.com/media/8hMD9YakVza3452SpN/giphy.gif?cid=ecf05e47lja4fekfymdq62pq37fqgaom9rxr9w57elqclwm9&rid=giphy.gif&ct=g)
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Wow, just wow!!
Steve
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Your treatment of the cowling and fuselage results in some extraordinary visual effects of weathering and use. Very realistic.
Excellent demonstrations of model building!
-
Hi Bertl - amazing work! I see that you installed your control cables prior to painting and have something covering them during the painting. Could you explain what you are using?
Thanks!!!
Dave
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No words come to mind that do your work justice!
RAGIII
-
Many thanks to you, Bob, Steve, Kensar, Dave and Rick.
Sevus
Bertl
-
Hi Bertl - amazing work! I see that you installed your control cables prior to painting and have something covering them during the painting. Could you explain what you are using?
Thanks!!!
Dave
@davec.
I used thin heat shrink tubing to do this.
I heated it up over a hot hair dryer and pulled it out to make it even thinner.
Servus
Bertl
-
Time for a little update.
A look at the picture of the original cockpit shows a metal surround at the edge of the cockpit for stiffening.
These metal strips have holes lined up to save weight.
I didn't manage to fix the strips also on the sides, that would have had to happen in a much earlier stage of construction - unfortunately I missed that.
But for the attachment "on-top" it still worked.
I used 0.10mm Evergreen-Card, which were provided with 0.40 and 0.45mm holes in a row on the CNC machine.
In the end I decided to use the 0.45mm series.
Narrow strips were cut with a scalpel, painted and attached with superglue - this was a minor operation, the small Morane-model is very fragile and extremely little glue could be used.
(https://up.picr.de/43748767xk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735939qe.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735940dg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735941gc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735943hz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
The metal cover to the right and left of the pilot's shoulders were also mounted.
These are etched parts from the kit. Painted with Tamiya "semi-gloss-black" and a drop of light gray.
After that the edges were chipped.
(https://up.picr.de/43735955eq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735957sn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735954gs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735959ln.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43735960jv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Ah, by the way, this is my template for the color scheme.
(https://up.picr.de/43737758jr.png)
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Continue with the upper tension tower.
(https://up.picr.de/43748672ou.png)
The kit plastic part was sanded considerably thinner.
I also adjusted the shape so that the profile was thinned towards the rear - more or less like an airfoil.
(https://up.picr.de/43610345oa.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610346hb.jpg)
The tensioning tower was sawed in at the top with the resin saw about 2 tenths of a millimeter and the etched part for attaching the tensioning ropes was glued into this slot with super glue.
(https://up.picr.de/43610363dc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610362si.jpg)
Missing mounting holes were completed with a 0.2mm drill bit.
(https://up.picr.de/43610367kl.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The kit includes a very nice resin pulley.
This is refined a bit and anchored at the top of the tension tower, at the last hole with a piece of copper wire.
(https://up.picr.de/43758939wl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43758937mg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43758941gm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43758940nd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43758942rg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43758936sj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The tension tower is painted in the same way as the engine cowling.
Primer in light gray, over this painted with Mr. Metalcolor aluminum and over that a layer of Tamiya semi-gloss-black with a drop of light gray.
A little bit of chipping..... more at the front of the tension tower, where wind and weather have greater influence.
With 0,1mm thin silver wire, the eyelets are shown.
(https://up.picr.de/43758963cw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43758954cr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43758952qe.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
From top to bottom, the lower tension tower.
(https://up.picr.de/43748646of.png)
The same procedure, the material was ground considerably thinner.
Here also, a contour similar to a wing contour was created.
The plastic parts from the box also had to be significantly reworked.
(https://up.picr.de/43610350rk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610349rv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
It took quite a bit of work to build a tension tower that is very close to the original.
The following pictures describe the way of work.
(https://up.picr.de/43610355wt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610353rn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610347vc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610356cy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610358ej.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610357mn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Scratch-built was the motto.
Waste plastic from Wingnut Wings, Evergreen Profile and brass tubes were my material suppliers.
(https://up.picr.de/43610394dy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610395sw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610397ee.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610385qr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610398oz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610384lh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The result satisfied me very much (which is rather rare)
(https://up.picr.de/43610389at.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610388fp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610402xp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610393ko.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610391on.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610390nn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
I could watch this build thread for hours...
-
The painting was done in the same way as for the upper tension tower.
(https://up.picr.de/43610409fk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43610408jd.jpg)
Here again for comparison, the original.
(https://up.picr.de/43748646of.png)
Servus
Bertl
-
I could watch this build thread for hours...
Thank you @PrezemoL ;)
-
The turnbuckles were made from 0.4mm brass tubes and 0.10mm silver wire.
The tensioning ropes are 0.10mm fishing line.
(https://up.picr.de/43759627ci.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759626jx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759629rp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759628om.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The following pictures show the course of the steering and tensioning ropes.
The landing gear can also be seen there - but more about that soon.
(https://up.picr.de/43759635hi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759634cn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759633so.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759645po.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759935ct.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759807yy.jpg)
That's it for today - I thank you for "looking in" - bye.
-
Magic! It's probably done with mirrors and smoke... 😀
Awesome work!
/Fredrik
-
Bertl, it's incredible what you conjure up out of plastic. Each update is an enrichment, because you explain the individual steps very well. You also take good photos to illustrate them. What do you use to paint the fishing line to give it the metal effect?
Kind regards
Jörg
-
Good to have you back, brother!
:o :o
Bob
-
Bertl, I'm showing a fellow modeller these recent posts and he too is in awe - utterly magnificent work!
-
Excellent work and attention to detail, Bertl.
-
Magic! It's probably done with mirrors and smoke... 😀
Awesome work!
/Fredrik
Thank you Fredrik
Correct .... however this works only in a full moon night shortly after midnight ;)
Servus
Bertl
-
Bertl, it's incredible what you conjure up out of plastic. Each update is an enrichment, because you explain the individual steps very well. You also take good photos to illustrate them. What do you use to paint the fishing line to give it the metal effect?
Kind regards
Jörg
Thank you very much for the flowers, Jörg.
The fishing lines are painted with Tamiya XF-16 "Flat-Aluminum".
The paint was heavily thinned and is applied with a thick brush.
I usually stretch several pieces of fishing line about 20cm long between "helping hands" and paint them very quickly.
The paint dries extremely quickly, you have to thin very often otherwise the painting becomes very irregularly thick, or small lumps develop on the fishing line.
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
Good to have you back, brother!
:o :o
Bob
Thank you very much Bob. ;D
Servus
Bertl
-
Bertl, I'm showing a fellow modeller these recent posts and he too is in awe - utterly magnificent work!
Thank you very much Zac.
The little Morane is certainly not perfect, nor is the model all that easy to build.
It is definitely far from Tamiya or Wingnut Wings.
I had a year to finish it, it was a contest from Jan. 2021 to the end of Dec. 2021.
I ran out of time because I added this and that in addition ::)
Some things I probably should have done a little differently, or put more effort into, but that is often only noticeable in the macro image.
In the end I am satisfied with the result.
I am also pleased that the model meets with approval.
BtW: I did not finish the model in the required time ... :(
But, I must say clearly, I really enjoyed building this little plane. ;)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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Excellent work and attention to detail, Bertl.
Thank you very much kensar.
Servus
Bertl
-
Now to the chassis and wheels.
The struts of the chassis were also ground much thinner.
In addition, the complete axle mount was built scratch.
I used 1mm thick copper tube as the axle.
The two axle stiffeners were represented by injection needles.
The connectors are made of Evergreen material and the suspension is simple wire.
The wire bracing under the axle beam was represented with fishing line.
The complete chassis was primed in light gray, then a layer of Mr. Metalcolor "Aluminum" and "Stainless" and on top of that several very thin layers of Tamiya "Semi-gloss-black" mixed with a drop of light gray.
Then chipped again.
Then aging and weathering with thin dark brown oil paint broth and Tamiya "Smoke" for the oil marks.
A big problem was gluing the metal parts to the Evergreen brackets.
I used super glue for this. But this of course does not penetrate metal but only glues on the surface.
As soon as the axle beam was twisted only minimally, the glued joints broke.
(https://up.picr.de/43748682nl.png)
(https://up.picr.de/43759727lp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759732at.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759731lz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759729hf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759728xn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
(https://up.picr.de/43759737ib.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759736qw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759735gw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759734pa.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759733oe.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
(https://up.picr.de/43759744og.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759743hv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759741fw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759740kk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759739oo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759738zl.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
(https://up.picr.de/43759747ew.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759746iu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759750ui.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759749dr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43759748na.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Four components for the wheels are in the box.
These components show a very strong structure of the spokes lying under the surface.
It looks like this rims are covered with fabric.
Interestingly, original pictures of the Morane used by the French show dented cladding on the rims.
It looks like aluminum to my eyes.
On the other hand, the original pictures of the Morane used by the English, show clearly spokes under the cover.
Anyway, I decided against the wheels from the kit.
I used wheels from a Copper-State-Nieuport kit.
These are exactly the same size as the wheels from the Morane kit.
Here is a picture of a French Morane - dented covers on the rims without being able to see the spokes behind them.
(https://up.picr.de/43759819dc.png)
And here the Kit-parts.
(https://up.picr.de/43762362zn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The Nieuport Copper-State rims still needed work.
First the mounting of the aluminum trim....
(https://up.picr.de/43762367st.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43762366du.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43762363gn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43762368tc.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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.... then the axle split pin
(https://up.picr.de/43762364wl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43762365ec.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43762369jy.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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...... Inside the missing valves for the rubber hoses
(https://up.picr.de/43771238rr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771239kw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771237bd.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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..... and an additional bushing so that the wheels can be mounted on the copper axle.
(https://up.picr.de/43762370gf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43762372ig.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43762371ie.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43762373ar.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The rubber tires were painted in two colors.
The tire itself in light gray and the surface, which rolls on the ground, in a slightly darker gray.
In addition, the flanks of the tires were somewhat soiled with oil paint.
In addition, a few small dents were applied to the rim covers. 8)
(https://up.picr.de/43762374rj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43762376zm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43762375ju.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771237bd.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The rim covers were painted as usual - light gray, aluminum-colors, semi-gloss black with a drop of light gray, some chipping.
Sorry for the poor quality of the pictures at this point, I had some problems with the camera at the time.
(https://up.picr.de/43762378lu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43762377em.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Here, in the second image, the landing gear is already mounted to the fuselage.
Note the bracing wire on the underside - I discovered this detail only by chance on the original pictures.
(https://up.picr.de/43762380hs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43762379zt.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Also a small detail, the missing step in the kit for mechanics and pilots.
Simple brass tube as a step and the bracket is represented with flattened copper wire.
(https://up.picr.de/43763274np.png)
The copper wire was pushed into the brass tube.
On the strut of the landing gear I drilled a small hole at the right position for mounting the step.
Thin tape was used to represent the flat sheet metal strip.
(https://up.picr.de/43763273ki.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43763272vy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43763271zp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43763270gk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Magic! It's probably done with mirrors and smoke... 😀
Awesome work!
/Fredrik
Thank you Fredrik
Correct .... however this works only in a full moon night shortly after midnight ;)
Servus
Bertl
I knew it! So I should be building after midnight on Tuesday...
/F
-
The pylon for the lower wing bracing.
This was located in the "V" of the landing gear strut.
See original pictures.
Unfortunately, this is missing on the model.
But Wingnut Wings continues to help here, with a donation of scrap plastic.
The holes for the two turnbuckles are drilled in the appropriate position and also in the appropriate direction.
(https://up.picr.de/43771380iz.png)
(https://up.picr.de/43771379vf.png)
(https://up.picr.de/43771386ya.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771393qk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771392oj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771391lm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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(https://up.picr.de/43772755od.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771374an.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771373sp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771376sx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771375ob.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The tail skid was used from the kit.
However, it was slightly reworked and also provided with the appropriate suspension (in the original probably coiled springs made of spring steel).
In the picture the revised tail skid from the kit in comparison with the original kit part.
(https://up.picr.de/43771402vm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771401ce.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771400px.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771399om.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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(https://up.picr.de/43771403nv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771406kp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771405da.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771404tl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771407xe.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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To attach the suspension to the fuselage, holes were drilled at an angle at the appropriate position.
(https://up.picr.de/43771411wq.jpg)
Here the spur is already attached in the correct position.
Well, I could have added appropriate brackets for the suspensions on the fuselage, but .... 8)
(https://up.picr.de/43771441hg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43771429gh.jpg)
Here is an original picture for comparison.
(https://up.picr.de/43771453rk.png)
That's it for today, see you soon.
Servus
Bertl
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Fascinating and exquisite, Bertl!!
-
This is just gobsmackingly awesome.
WD
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My kinda of detailing !
Alexis
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oooh Bertl is back!
I was missing in the last couple of years and decided to check on you guys today and oh my, such a surprise :)
I briefly reviewed the topic form my phone and already have ideas how to improve my current build :)
Best regards,
Sasho
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Remarkable Details!
RAGIII
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Thank you, Zac, Rick, Alexis and WD!! :D
Servus
Bertl
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@Ssasho0
Hi Sasho, I have not really been away from the forum over the years - often sitting in the back corner as a silent reader. ;D
Servus
Bertl
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Here are a few pictures of the oil contamination adjustment and aging - so the wings and fuselage look about the same.
(https://up.picr.de/43772915tf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43772914vw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43772909gh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The weathering/ ageing are truly awesome Bertl!
RAGIII
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Elevator and rudder are movable on the model.
The movements are transferred to the movable control stick and the movable rudder bar via control cables (thin fishing line) - or vice versa would be correct.
Of course, it was very important to me when building the model, despite the movable odds and ends, to stay as close as possible to the original.
As with the original, here at the upper bearing point of the rudder the screw connection.
A small resin screw was prepared for this.
The shaft of the screw was removed, the screw itself was drilled in the middle (OK, almost in the middle) and provided with a long copper wire.
This wire was then inserted into the rudder hinge (brass tube) from the top.
It was not glued, the screw head and the copper wire hold through the black paint on the model.
(https://up.picr.de/43796327ca.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796329oc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796330ou.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796331rv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796326xn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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The weathering/ ageing are truly awesome Bertl!
RAGIII
Thank you very much, Rick! :D
-
Now things got tricky.
At some point during the build, the idea grew to try to make the rudders moveable.
I wasn't sure if this would really be feasible down to the last detail.
Well, here in the following pictures the last section to the movable rudder.
By movable I mean that the rudder movement is actually transmitted to the rudder pedal via the control cables.
The model had to be fixed for this, rudder and rudder bar fixed in neutral position, the control cables both had to be tensioned equally far and then nothing could go wrong.
Glued with a tiny drop of super glue.
Fix the Bird ;D
(https://up.picr.de/43796334bn.jpg)
And yessss, it works.
Rudderbar and Rudder position neutral.
(https://up.picr.de/43796337ru.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796336ln.jpg)
Rudder/Rudderbar left:
(https://up.picr.de/43796341tq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796339al.jpg)
Rudder/Rudderbar right:
(https://up.picr.de/43796340vv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796342sn.jpg)
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
I had to cheat a little here, a real turnbuckle with wire would be too inflexible at this point, so a brass tube and a drop of wood glue pretend the turnbuckle.
(https://up.picr.de/43796346oz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796345es.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796348np.jpg)
I will go the same way with the elevator, it worked for the rudder, so I hope for the same success with the elevator. We will see ... .
Servus
Bertl
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D amn! That is just more incredible work Bertl!
RAGIII
-
A short detour to the windshield.
On this model, the windshield is made of a clear casting plastic.
The thing is way too massive in terms of scale - more like a armored glass window from a WWII fighter or bomber etc.
The windshield was sanded much thinner, polished, painted, oil splattered and glued to the model.
I used superglue gel for this - two tiny drops only.
The first painting of the windshield frame was done with Mr. Metalcolor "Aluminum".
Then, the frame was painted with Tamiya "Semi-gloss-black".
To achieve an aging effect, the black paint was chipped a little on the Frame, so that the aluminum appears again.
(https://up.picr.de/43796591pj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796592xl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796593gj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796594vv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796596gt.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
Here the oily windshield already fixed on the model.
On these pictures the Hotchkiss MG is already mounted.
I will show the way to mount the MG soon.
(https://up.picr.de/43796608ik.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796606nm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796612sn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43796610il.jpg)
That's it for today.
Greetings from Bavaria to the rest of the world ;D
Servus
Bertl
-
:o
RAGIII
-
D amn! That is just more incredible work Bertl!
RAGIII
And again, thank you very much, Rick. ;D
Servus
Bertl
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Bertl, each update shows me what can be done with kits in ways I never imagined. Thank you for sharing your process in such detail: it's truly inspirational!
-
Wow, just wow what amazing detailing... Thumbs up!
Cheers: Kent
-
You recreation of textures is exceptional.
Cheers
Syd
-
Bertl
Your spectacular Morane Saulnier work has been seen by Special Hobby who are really impressed with your model and describe you as 'A Master". They will be featuring your model as well as Kent's in their blog.
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
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Well deserved praise, guys!
-
Spectacular!
Sandy
-
Superlative modelling and great inspiration!
-
This build.
Oh my.
It just continues to climb. :)
What did you use to recreate the smeared oil Bertl?
WD
-
Bertl
Your spectacular Morane Saulnier work has been seen by Special Hobby who are really impressed with your model and describe you as 'A Master". They will be featuring your model as well as Kent's in their blog.
Dave Wilson
Gold Coast
Australia
And rightly so - jolly good show, Bertl! ;D ;D
Cheers,
BC
-
Bertl
Your spectacular Morane Saulnier work has been seen by Special Hobby who are really impressed with your model and describe you as 'A Master". They will be featuring your model as well as Kent's in their blog.
And rightly so - jolly good show, Bertl! ;D ;D
Hear hear!
-
I’ve been over this thread more times than I can count. There are so many good modelling tips to see. Such attention to detail. The study of photos and the methods in which realistic parts have been modified or created. And a rudder pedal that actually works...wow that takes it to an even higher league. The time you take to answer everyone’s questions is sure appreciated too :)
Cheers,
Gary
-
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Alexis
-
My mind, it gets boggled every time I look at this thread.
Such wonderful work.
WD
-
Stunning work!
-
So, on your next build, will the machine gun work ? This is just stunning, well done. Regards, Pete in RI
-
So, on your next build, will the machine gun work ? This is just stunning, well done. Regards, Pete in RI
I'm standing by to act as engine starter!
-
LOL, and you are probably the most qualified here for that job Zac!
-
The lessons you teach here Bertl are not just for this kit, but apply equally to all of our models. We just have to read carefully, take note, and practice. Thank you soooooo much for taking the time to show us all how you do this, we all benefit from your tutorials. Regards, Pete in RI
-
LOL, and you are probably the most qualified here for that job Zac!
8) Just say the word, Bertl, and I'll be at the field!!
-
Just love your work my friend ! :)
Alexis
-
Hello all,
after four weeks without visiting the forum, no time at all for modelling but a lot of stress at work, I find some time for it today.
First, many thanks to all of you for your many and kind comments.
Many thanks also to Dave W.
He has contacted Special-Hobby.
Mr. Ondrej Hajek from Special-Hobby then contacted me about featuring the little Morane on Special Hobby's model blog.
Also Kent Karlsen's beautiful Morane-Built will be featured in the Special-Hobby-Blog.
Again, many thanks to Dave W.
Of course I will also answer the questions you have posted.
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
This build.
Oh my.
It just continues to climb. :)
What did you use to recreate the smeared oil Bertl?
WD
@WD
I mainly use very diluted "burnt umber" - oil paint broth - to depict the oil-soaked canvas.
This broth is applied with a thin brush along the longerons. More "oil" is also applied to areas where landing gear struts or other parts are attached to the fuselage.
On the windscreen I used only very diluted oil paint broth.
Fresh traces of oil are painted with Tamiya "Smoke".
Diluted a little, "Smoke" can be applied very nicely with a brush.
It also works to apply a relatively large amount of "Smoke" to certain areas and then distribute it with air from the airbrush in the opposite direction to the direction of flight.
But be careful, too much air pressure spreads the colour uncontrollably.
See you at
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
I’ve been over this thread more times than I can count. There are so many good modelling tips to see. Such attention to detail. The study of photos and the methods in which realistic parts have been modified or created. And a rudder pedal that actually works...wow that takes it to an even higher league. The time you take to answer everyone’s questions is sure appreciated too :)
Cheers,
Gary
@gedmundson
Thank you so much Gary. Now keep your fingers crossed that the elevator also works together with the control stick ;)
Servus
Bertl
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@Alexis, @jeroen_R90S, @WD ,@Brad Cancian, @Monty, @Sandy, @kensar, @Syd, @Kent, @Zac, @Europapete, Thank you very much to all of you. ;)
Servus
Bertl
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Now for the biting side of the little Morane, the Hotchkiss MG.
The parts in the box are sufficient to be mounted the small MG on the top of the cowling.
There are etched parts, resin parts and plastic to be able to make a model-faithful representation.
But I wanted something more ::)
The linkage, i.e. the complete mounting for the MG and also the MG itself, I wanted to depict in much greater detail.
I thought the solution would be very simple - get the 3D-printed Hotchkiss from Gaspatch and everything goes very easily .... that was my thought 8)
For those who want to know how the MG works, here is a very interesting link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fU1xzzyugew
Servus
Bertl
-
The Hotchkiss MG out of the box is a little, hm, let's say - a little very low on detail.
Gaspatch offers a superbly detailed, 3D printed Hotchkiss.
So far so good - but the Gaspatch MG is clearly too long.
Here is a comparison:
Above the plastic MG from the kit (no idea if the size is correct, but it serves as a reference).
Below the beautifully detailed Gaspatch MG. - The difference in size is enormous.
(https://up.picr.de/43837077pm.jpg)
The incorrect dimension becomes really clear when the MG is seen on the cowling.
(https://up.picr.de/43837079so.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837080qa.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
But since I didn't want to give up the nice detailing of the too large GP-MG's, I had to resize it awkwardly.
(https://up.picr.de/43837082hu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837083iu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837084ju.jpg)
The master-problem is, that the 3D printing material is very brittle.
You have to work extremely carefully with a resin saw, drill and file otherwise the material crumbles.
Each cut was drilled on both sides and stiffened with a thin brass rod. The parts were glued with superglue.
I needed two attempts before I was satisfied with the shortened Gaspatch MG.
Servus
Bertl
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Here are some steps in the pictures showing the step-by-step shortening of the MG.
(https://up.picr.de/43837097yg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837099hs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837094rg.jpg)
In this picture the MG out of the box on top, the shortened gas patch in the middle and at the bottom the original gas patch.
The white plastic rod shows the reference point, this small round knob to the left of the plastic rod on the MG's is the mounting point for the bracket on the cowling.
(https://up.picr.de/43837095rz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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In order to attach the ammo clip from the box to the Gaspatch MG, the cartridge chamber must be adjusted accordingly.
This work was done with small needle files.
(https://up.picr.de/43837088pw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837087bq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837086zl.jpg)
The firing pin repeater was represented with a thin plastic rod
(https://up.picr.de/43837093uk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837091ok.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837090ef.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Making the MG's mount on the Morane turned out to be a big challenge.
A mix of waste plastic and Evergreen-rod was used here.
Constant adjustment and control was necessary to achieve a good result.
In the pictures you can see very well that the retaining rods run through the sheet metal of the cowling to the mounting points in the cockpit, just like in the original.
Cutting and adjusting the length of the rods at the correct angle at the end point was not easy. I needed several attempts until I was satisfied.
(https://up.picr.de/43837172kd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837139af.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837133kk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837129ad.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The position of the MG on the cowling was determined by the two round knobs on the MG, by the height of the bullet deflectors on the propeller and by the position of the ammo clips.
Also the horizontal and vertical position of the gun itself.
These positions had to be taken into account when creating the mounts.
(https://up.picr.de/43837181br.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837179if.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837176rm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837170vq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837169gx.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Grüß Dich Bertl!
Incredible what you can always create from waste Plastik! Admirable performance as always!
Jörg
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After I was satisfied with the complete bracket, it was painted.
I used Tamiya "Semi-Gloss-Black" mixed with a little light grey.
At this point it was important to me that the bracket was a shade different from the black of the cowling - everything in the same colour quickly looks boring and unrealistic.
The eagle-eyed among you will also notice the tiny and fine scratches and paint chips on the tube mounts - these were depicted with a light grey coloured pencil.
(https://up.picr.de/43837269le.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837267ce.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837266te.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837264el.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Grüß Dich Bertl!
Incredible what you can always create from waste Plastik! Admirable performance as always!
Jörg
@Jorgo
Ich grüße Dich zurück, Jörg!
Yes, never throw waste plastic in the bin - you can build (almost entire) aeroplanes out of it ;D
Servus
Bertl
-
Now for the painting of the small machine gun.
I didn't use ready mixed gunmetal colors for this.
In most cases I use Tamiya "Semi-gloss-black" with some brown.
This makes it very easy to show the somewhat brownish burnished surface of used weapons.
Don't use too much brown, the weapons were by no means rusted!
This is only the first step of the MG painting - more then tomorrow.
(https://up.picr.de/43837398ls.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837397qn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Silence is golden....
Willem
-
Silence is golden....
Willem
What he said! Or, didn't!
I'm sorry to hear of your tough times at work Bertl and I'm excited to see these wonderful updates - the ammunition in particular looks terrific!
-
More amazing work. Cliff hanger ending too!!
Steve
-
The Master has delivered! :o
Keep up the great work :)
Bob
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Truly masterful Modelling Bertl, a real lesson in detailing and so much pleasure to follow your progress. I am lost for words, this Build is an exceptional learning experience and just keeps getting better. This "Club" of ours is privileged and grateful to host such work! Many thanks for all you share with us.
Cheers,
Lance
-
I agree with Lance, sometimes I feel like a college student fascinated by reading some Nobel prize scientist works...
Chapeau!
-
I had still written in my last post "more then tomorrow".
Sorry, too much has happened this week.
But today I have some opportunity to post more pictures here.
But before that, my heartfelt thanks to you for the great comments.
Many thanks to Lance, andonio64, Bob, Steve, Zac and Willem ;D
Servus
Bertl
-
Back to the painting of the MG.
Here the result of the first priming with semi-gloss-black and a little bit of brown.
(https://up.picr.de/43837398ls.jpg)
The next step:
The first highlights are set on small corners and edges, but also on the MG's tube with Mr. metalcolor "Stainless".
These highlights were made with a soft brush.
A very fine makeup sponge also works very well.
(https://up.picr.de/43837431fg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837429uf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837426hf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837422on.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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After the "makeup" with "Stainless", the grip of the Hotchkiss-MG was painted with Mr. Metalcolor "Brass".
The two grip plates I painted again relatively dark.
Both times I used a very thin but pointed brush.
The brass screw, that holds the two grips to the brass part, was made with the tip of a toothpick.
In addition, more light metal effect with "Stainless" were applied.
The two pictures were "shot" through the magnifying glass of a table lamp, therefore the MG appears distorted in length.
(https://up.picr.de/43837433sm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837415gy.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The MG was now gently sprayed with the airbrush with Tamiya brown and some Tamiya smoke, both mixed with 90% thinner.
This fine mist of paint serves as a filter to break up the metallic shine a bit and capture the "used" look.
Depending on the incidence of light, you will now see a slightly stronger metallic shine or a slightly weaker one.
(https://up.picr.de/43837418xf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837421qo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837420ak.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837419tt.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The modified Gaspatch Hotchkiss-MG can now be mounted on the top of the cowling.
Easy to say, but it wasn't quite that simple after all.
The whole plastic stuff is very fragile. In addition, all the correct angles and alignments had to be observed.
But in the end it worked.
(https://up.picr.de/43837319ol.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837325wl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837324gp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837323ja.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837321hg.jpg)
If you look at the mounting of the MG on the original pictures, you will notice that the MG tube was additionally fixed on the cowling.
For me the question arose, do you want to represent this on the model as shown in the original?
You can probably guess the answer .... .
(https://up.picr.de/43977532tw.png)
Servus
Bertl
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For the representation of this holding clamp around the MG-barrel I resorted to old proven home remedy - waste plastic 8)
(https://up.picr.de/43837220xh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837222bq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837226us.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837227rz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837225yh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The creation and assembly of the small retaining clamp required a lot of patience.
The two long screws for fixing were made of simple hot-drawn plastic sprue.
(https://up.picr.de/43837452ck.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837475pl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837518nx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837488km.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837476ze.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837553qa.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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After the MG was fixed to the model, the repeating lever could also be installed.
The repeating lever was carefully inserted and adjusted on the MG.
Finally, the repeater lever was attached without glue.
Due to the color it holds very well in the bore.
(https://up.picr.de/43837520hq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837522qw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Now the upper tension tower could also be inserted, aligned and glued.
With these pictures I say goodbye again for today.
See you soon,
Servus
Bertl
(https://up.picr.de/43837564uz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43837563bq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43992543jj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43992539he.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43992538nb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43992534jr.jpg)
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Bertl, modeling at its best ! Your eye for details is impressive. By the way, the color of the fuselage, the weathering and shading are very well done.
Kind regards
Jörg
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Bertl,did you fire a testshot to see if the Bullet deflectors work?
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Bertl, I have not enough hats to take off my head for this!
SUPER
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More exquisite scale engineering, Bertl. Truly inspirational stuff!!
I had still written in my last post "more then tomorrow".
Sorry, too much has happened this week.
I hope everything is okay with you and yours, Bertl. I know I'm always happy to wait for model updates while my fellow forum members have real world things to tackle.
-
I showed this project to my wife and mentioned there was quite a bit of scrap plastic used in the details. After expressing her amazement the next thing she asked was "So why do you buy all those extra parts?" ....a small amount of squirming, shrugging and the sound of crickets was my reply.....
Steve
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....and then you bit off your tongue....
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I have Nothing to say ! 8)
RAGIII
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I recently went through the entire thread again... there is a lot of things to learn from here! The first thing I will put to use is the use of the colour Radome and then those shrink tubes to protect the painted control wires and then...
Fantastic work and so very well detailed and explained.
Thanks!
/F
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I showed this project to my wife and mentioned there was quite a bit of scrap plastic used in the details. After expressing her amazement the next thing she asked was "So why do you buy all those extra parts?" ....a small amount of squirming, shrugging and the sound of crickets was my reply.....
Steve
;D ;D ;D
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;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Jörg (@Jorgo),
thank you very much ;)
Mathias (@Malaula)
No, that was not possible. At that time the chamber was not yet installed ;D
@andonio 64
Many thanks ;)
@KiwiZac
Sometimes things don't work out the way they should - but better days will surely come again.
I don't want to complain, it's going well so far ... ;)
@pepperman42
It looks like your wife is pretty smart 8)
(Sometimes "our girls" leave us quite speechless) ;D
@RAGIII, @FAf
Thank you very much.
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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Isn't there a book called God of Small Things? I think it must be about you. Amaaaazing work!
Cheers
Syd
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Magnificent craftsmanship Bertl, your detailing is beyond comparison! A beautiful model, the break certainly didn't harm your skills and this is a real pleasure to follow!
Cheers,
Lance
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Thank you very much Syd and Lanc :D
Servus
Bertl
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After the MG and the upper tension turret were mounted, I could continue with the mount for the ammunition clips.
Directly OoB two etched parts are offered for this.
I used these as well because they look very nice and coherent.
However, I sanded them a little thinner.
Due to the fact that I didn't use the OoB-Mg but a heavily modified Hotchkiss-MG from Gaspatch, the cartridge breech box slipped about two ore three tenths of a millimeter towards the pilot's seat.
For this reason, I had to add a second bracket just below the table-style ammo clip holder.
So that everything could be mounted sufficiently stable, I have shown the ammo clip as half empty.
Thus I could glue both clip holders through the clip etching part.
(https://up.picr.de/44164308au.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44164304ij.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44164294lt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44164290og.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43992549nr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43992548vp.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
Here are pictures of the installation of the small windshield.
I had removed a lot of material here so that the windshield looks thinner and more true to scale.
Of course, the contour had to be adapted to the engine cowling, as well as the opening for the MG.
To determine the mounting position I fixed the Plexiglas windshield with Patafix.
(https://up.picr.de/43992553eu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43992551id.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43992550fh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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You already know the following pictures.
The windshield is already firmly glued here.
But for your attention: Also on this small part, slight paint flakes were shown on the frame so that this small detail fits to the "used" overall picture.
To show the chipped paint, the window frame was first painted in aluminum, then in semi-gloss-black.
The tiny paint chips were created with a knife, sandpaper and steel wool.
(https://up.picr.de/44164310iz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44164308au.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43992556ei.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43992555yb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/43992554xa.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
Here are some more pictures of the upper tension tower.
The attachment of the tensioning ropes.
Here I used 0.1mm thick silver wire, which was inserted into the tensioning tower in the correct direction and fixed with superglue.
In the original ....
(https://up.picr.de/44164224yb.png)
and in the model ....
(https://up.picr.de/44164329qj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44164328mk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44164327xq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44164311wt.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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So my dear fellow model builders, you can see from the date display on the pictures that we are partly already in the "now time", you are now up to date with the construction of the little Morane.
There is not much work left to do, but some time will pass until the little monoplane will be on its display.
Of course I will not say goodbye again after this ongoing built report - I plan to start a new built report here shortly.
So that you can find out which model it is, here are two pictures.
I am really curious who of you will guess it ... ???
To make it easier, it is a wingnut model 8)
(https://up.picr.de/44151097sc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44151098bw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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Beautiful work, Bertl! All those tiny details are really crisp and really look the part. Very inspiring indeed!
/Fredrik
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Eye Candy !
Alexis
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Incredible work Bertl
Alan
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Of course I will not say goodbye again after this ongoing built report - I plan to start a new built report here shortly.
So that you can find out which model it is, here are two pictures.
I am really curious who of you will guess it ... ???
To make it easier, it is a wingnut model 8)
(https://up.picr.de/44151097sc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44151098bw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Hannover CL.II (Rol)
Spyros
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Bertl, an incredibly great build report! Thank you for sharing your model art with us !
Jörg
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Stunning work!!
Steve
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Too cool your Morane, Bertl! Incredible work.
Your next project? Judging from the radiator… a Bf-109? ;D
Andreas
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Stunning work Bertl such fun to read back through all the pages.
I found mention of Photobucket, I am having terrible issues with them, have you gone on to another photo site? If so, with whom?
The thought of loosing over 13,000 images, mostly modeling is scary...
-
Thumbs up ! 8)
Alexis
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Excellent work, Bertl :o
Bob
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I never thought I could drown under a mass of gorgeous photos of a Morane scout... but I always hoped ;D
-
This is as always simply Incredible!
RAGIII
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@all
Many thanks to all of you for your kind comments.
@Borsos
I think this could be a Ju88 in biplane version ;D
@acewwi
You're right about that ....I think you've been peeking at the "Flugzeugforum" ;)
@Allan31
Yes, I migrated from Photobucket - the methods there were not to my taste.
Too bad for the amount of lost pictures - what a shame.
I have found this provider:
www.picr.de
Servus
Bertl
-
Again a bit of work on the Morane.
The model was fixed in a non-slip position and the control stick was locked in an almost neutral position with a carved auxiliary tool.
I then clamped the pendulum rudder in neutral.
The elevator control cables were then very carefully tensioned in sequence and taped to the "assembly stand" with Tamiya tape.
I marked the control cables with different colors of felt pen so that they could be tensioned in the correct sequence.
(https://up.picr.de/44186845ey.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186846nx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186847yh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186842es.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186840oh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186839az.jpg)
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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After all four control cables were well tensioned - always making sure that the control stick and the elevator remain in neutral (!!) - the control cables were glued in the holes of the control horns with a tiny drop of super glue.
(https://up.picr.de/44186848gs.jpg)
As soon as the superglue had tightened, the big moment came - clipping off the control cables from the auxiliary tool:
(https://up.picr.de/44186843ee.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186844ht.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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After I removed the model from the jig, the control cables were glued again for safety and cut off just behind the rudder horn.
To cut the control cables, I always use my "Belzer pliers", an ingenious instrument - see pictures:
(https://up.picr.de/44186876gc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186878ot.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186880pu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186879rf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186881mo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186875me.jpg)
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...... and now the big moment 8):
The control stick moves in the direction of "neutral":
(https://up.picr.de/44186874jd.jpg)
.... and the Elevator moved to "neutral" position:
(https://up.picr.de/44186873xy.jpg)
and now the control stick moves to "pulled:
(https://up.picr.de/44186872pl.jpg)
.... the Elevator moved to position "pulled":
(https://up.picr.de/44186871wx.jpg)
at last, the Control stick moves forward:
(https://up.picr.de/44186869yl.jpg)
.... the Elevator goes to "dive" position :
(https://up.picr.de/44186868qz.jpg)
As a reminder, the rudder also works in conjunction with the rudder bar.
See post # 324
Thus, the elevator and the rudder, including the respective controls, are movably connected and mounted on the Morane via control cables in a sensible manner ;)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
Since the model was just lying on its back, a few pictures of the oily belly of the little Morane- fuselage:
(https://up.picr.de/44186886xb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186889sg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186887jq.jpg)
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Now comes the last big step - the final assembly of the wings - for this the model was fixed on the underside of my sanding plate with the simplest means:
(https://up.picr.de/44186860ot.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186861bd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186863ja.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186862ue.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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When the fuselage was fixed on the plate, I was thinking about what to build as a jig for wing mounting - funny enough, not two minutes later I had two Tamiya paint jars in my hands - put them underneath, I thought - and that fit right away, brilliant!!! ..... You have to be lucky.
The jars were fixed to the base with double-sided tape and all was well.
The model will also remain fixed to the board for bracing - I'm curious how unstable or how firm the wings will be after bracing to the model.
(https://up.picr.de/44186867uu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186864ue.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44186866bd.jpg)
In the last picture, the two wings are already glued to the fuselage.
So, that's it again - see you soon.
(https://up.picr.de/44186865xe.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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Question... Does it get any better than this?
::) ::) ::) :o :o :o
-
Question... Does it get any better than this?
::) ::) ::) :o :o :o
No, probably not! Not until Bertl's next model at least. 😀
I'm guessing that you will find the wings quite rigid once you're done with the wiring. Unless you use elastic thread that is...
/Fredrik
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:) :) :)
Alexis
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Question... Does it get any better than this?
::) ::) ::) :o :o :o
I think we need a new rule: no shrink-rays or 1/1 projects with oversize props to fool us into thinking we're looking at a scale model.
Bertl, this is truly magnificent!!
-
Well, I have been printing this out for future reference. I wish I could print out Bertl's skills too, as mine won't come anywhere near. Bertl, you HAVE TO take this to Telford and the rest of the top European contests, just so that everyone can see how bad the winners are compared to this model.
-
@all
Many thanks to all of you for your kind comments.
@acewwi
You're right about that ....I think you've been peeking at the "Flugzeugforum" ;)
Servus
Bertl
Bertl
the Hannover CL.II radiator is distinctive because of the ring it has below it (see the 3 supports). Daimler - Mercedes radiator refers to (Rol)
I have been following your work for the past 12 years (from the old "aerodrome" to this forum) because it is an apparition in my eyes.
Good job
Spyros
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Great to catch up here on your work on the model, Bert. Looking forward to seeing the rigging completed on the wings.
Cheers,
Gary
-
More and more wows every post!!
Steve
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Absolutely brilliant, my hats are off to your skills, sir. ;)
Cheers
Ondra
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Question... Does it get any better than this?
::) ::) ::) :o :o :o
My Opinion is...I Don't think so!
RAGIII
-
I agree, more about something to aspire to for me.
Alan.
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Let's start with the rigging of the wings.
First, the tensioning ropes of the top side are threaded into the counter bearings of the wings, then a loop is formed and fixed with a short cut micro-polyimide capillary tube.
Then carefully stretch, trim the MPC tubing and glue with super glue.
Glue is applied to the end of the tube - not to the loop, which passes through the wire counter-bearing of the wings.
(https://up.picr.de/44199236wj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44199235mk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44199238ac.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44199237kl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44199242xs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44199241fj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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Here again the front tensioning cables of the upper tower and its counter-tensioning in the direction of the engine cowling.
The upper bracing of the wing warping comes only at the end.
(https://up.picr.de/44204238jg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44204236gg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44199244tm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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It's more difficult on the underside, because the model is fixed to the board.
At the bottom, each tension cable is already threaded and "pre-tensioned" but nothing is glued yet.
(https://up.picr.de/44199230ew.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44199248va.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44199247ci.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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To carry out the tensioning of the wing warping, the model had to be taken out of the fixation - here too, everything threaded and pre-tensioned but nothing glued yet.
So far, only the two front tension ropes on top have been glued.
The next step is to thread and tension the upper tensioning cables of the surface twisting.
Let's see if the resin tensioning pulley can withstand the whole process or if it will break .... .
The model itself is very fragile and can only be handled with extreme caution.
I'll be glad when the thing has finally found a place in the showcase and will be taken out only every few months (years?) To brush off the dust.....
..... and spiders :)
(https://up.picr.de/44204249mq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44204248zv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The small dirty and oily M.S. "Bullet" is now 98% complete.
Below are pictures of the just finished bracing on TOP.
As already written, also on the bottom side the rigging is already finished except for gently tightening and gluing the ropes.
This should be done in a very short time.
After that, there is still some cosmetic work to be done, such as touching up the paint on various glued joints, or finishing the painting of the thimbles on the turnbuckles, and then the Bird is done.
(https://up.picr.de/44204259sf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44204258uk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44204257tm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44204256og.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44204254rc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44204252rx.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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This is superb.... just superb. Beautifully done and one of the best models I have ever seen... Regards, Marc.
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What I would still like to get rid of:
I was about "Photobucket reasons" longer time away from this forum as an active modeller.
I was represented over the time here in this place only as a "silent reader".
I would like to thank you to you all for the warm welcome after the time and thank you for looking into this little Morane-built log!
Also about your many comments and the many invisible "Likes"
I was very pleased.
Once again: Thank you very much ;)
(https://up.picr.de/44204234lf.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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I am also very pleased!
Fantastic build to follow and with so many great photos and explanations of the work done that you really can learn something and try yourself. Although I don't think I'll go for the moving controls myself. :)
/Fredrik
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This is truly an excellent demonstration of masterclas craftsmanship!
Many thanks for sharing this inspirational work, Bertl!
Cheers
Ondra
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Thank you very much @ondra, @Monty, @FAf
You can find the pictures of the finished model here:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=13285.msg247236#msg247236
Servus
Bertl
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This has been a masterclass build log. Thank you so much for the demonstrations, explanations and presentation of this beautiful model!
Steve
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Perfection, Bertl. I don't know how this could possibly be improved.
Wonderful modelling skills.
Sandy
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@macsporran
@pepperman42
Thank you very much Steve and Sandy!!
Servus
Bertl