forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Mike Norris on April 16, 2022, 07:27:35 AM
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Hi all,
My build of the Fokker D.VI is nearing completion.
Therefore I thought I'd have a crack at one of the 'Lukgraph' model in my stash.
I'm going to have a crack at the resin and 3D printed 1:32nd scale RAF BE2c model.
The subject aircraft has been changed - see the current aircraft further down in this thread.
Mike
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I'm excited and ready, Mike. Good luck!
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I am looking forward to this one as always Mike!
RAGIII
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I'm with Rick ! :)
Alexis
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Hi all,
Whilst compiling the basic PDF build log for this model I've already made a few observations:
Care should be taken when working with parts of the model cast in resin, as in dust form and if inhaled, is dangerous to your health.
It is becoming more common for model kit parts to be produced using 3D printing. Whilst this can be a good thing for modelers, it does present some differences to ‘normal’ kits:
The modeler has less to actually build and therefore ‘assembles’ the model rather than ‘build’ the model, which some may find detracts from the challenges of, for instance,
building an engine from separate parts instead of having a completed 3D printed engine.
Care needs to be taken when separating the individual parts from a combined 3D print, as each part requires cutting away from its support structure without damaging the part.
The part would then require sanding to remove any print ’tags’. Also the more fragile parts could be easily damaged during separation or subsequent handling.
Sanding away surface striations (layers of the 3D print) and subsequent painting will be difficult on complete and complex printed parts, such as the engine.
Although reinforcing rods are moulded internally within the wings, axle and struts, additional support is required for locating some parts. For example:
The lower wings have a single reinforcing rod moulded internally within the wing, intended to prevent lateral warp of the wing. However, although the instructions
show that two locating rods are required to locate the wings into the fuselage, the wings have no locating rods fitted and there are no guide marks for drilling the
location holes in either the wings or the fuselage. Although the rod is supplied, care is needed to do this to avoid misalignment of the lower wings to each other and the fuselage.
Building this model should not present major problems for the average modeler, but care and attention will be required, particularly regards providing adequate
support for the larger and heavier resin parts, especially the lower wings.
Mike
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Thank you for these initial thoughts Mike, they're very helpful to know.
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Hi all,
I was thinking about modern day kit production methods.
First off I don't want to be too contentious on this subject.
One off the major costs of producing a model kit in styrene is the cost and time involved in creating the injection/slide moulds.
The retail cost of kits depended largely on this, so it was no surprise that the more finely detailed and complex kits cost more.
I think even the initial cost of some of the early 'Wingnut Wings' kits was higher than expected due to this.
Then we have resin kits, which traditionally cost more than styrene kits due to the manufacturing methods used.
The techniques of creating the moulds differed to that for styrene moulds and I assume the cost of resin was higher.
However we are now seeing more 3D printed parts being created, either by individuals or by manufacturers, such as 'LukGraph'.
This brings me to my thinking.
The initial cost of setting up suitable 3D printing equipment is probably high, but not as much as the cost of creating injection/slide moulding tooling.
The larger and less complex model parts are moulded and it's the intricate, smaller and more complex parts (a major cost in injection tooling) that are 3D printed.
Once the kit parts have been created in CAD etc and test prints carried out, production of identical parts can be started at the cost of materials only.
Also, 3D CAD designs are quicker and easier to modify to create other versions of those model parts.
There is no doubt in my mind that kits from 'LukGraph' and 'CSM' have filled the gap left by the demise of 'Wingnut Wings', both in quality, presentation and subject matter.
However, I assume that for most modelers, much of the satisfaction in modeling is in the challenge of building assemblies, such as the engines, rather than just adding 3D assemblies.
Even though the cost of living generally keeps increasing, I can't help wondering why part moulded and part 3D printed kits cost as much as they do?
My thoughts are that the more a kit is 3D printed, the less production costs are involved and therefore in theory, the retail prices should be lower than they are.
As I said I don'y want to be contentious - just the thoughts of one modeler among many :)
Anyway, first up will be the engine.
As you can see the complete engine is 3D printed, with probably only ignition leads to add.
So in theory just separating the five parts from their supports, removing any residual support tags and sanding away any obvious layer striations.
We'll see ;)
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/3dengine.jpg)
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Thanks for outlining your thoughts Mike. Regarding cost I'm inclined to agree - perhaps it all comes down to labour when it's one person (I believe)?
However, I assume that for most modelers, much of the satisfaction in modeling is in the challenge of building assemblies, such as the engines, rather than just adding 3D assemblies.
For my part sometimes yes - for example I look at New Airfix and Eduard kits and want to build them for the kit itself - but my overriding aim is to have a decent representation of a particular airframe so my choice of kit is often based on that end. When it comes to an aircraft like the BE.2f the one I'd like to build is a restored, flying original so is special to me and therefore demands as much detail as possible.
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I think the reason for the high cost of 3D printed parts is... time. The average resin printer nowadays offer a printing surface of 15x7 cms, give or take. And the printing time depends on the z-axis measure, since that dictates the numbers of layers that are needed to finish the part. From my own calculations only four, maybe six, engines can be fitted in the printing surface, and they will require about 14 hours to print. So in order to produce a decent number of kits you need... more printers. Ant that means more money.
I also think it would have been wiser to produce the engine as individual parts to ease cleaning and painting. Recently I sent some forum members a few Renault V8 engines (very similar to the RAF 1a) and they were split into separate cylinders, magneto, engine block, sump and front gear cover, and admission pipes. See the scratchbuilt BE2A and Be2C projects at the correspondent section...
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Hi Beto,
Yes you are probably correct regards printing times involved.
I would think 3D kit manufacturers print sufficient stock (including pre-orders) to cover the release date for the kit.
Then kits after that are printed to order, rather than creating stock that is not being sold.
You are obviously more knowledgeable than me regards 3D printing, something I've considered.
Do you have links to your creations and their use in models?
Mike
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Mike, that is a very interesting new project! Following.
With injection moulding, the mould is extremely expensive, production is cheap. You have the development effort in any case, but you have to spread the costs over a smaller series in case of resin.
I think the resin is also not cheap, also the UV one for direct printing.
A normal casting can be manufactured faster, but you need also replace the silicon moulds from time to time.
With direct 3D printing, each piece is a prototype and unique. The machine costs (incl. wear parts such as foil) must be covered by the few printed parts. So there is no decrease with higher volumes.
Cheers,
Frank
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Hi Beto,
Do you have links to your creations and their use in models?
Mike
Hugh (hrcoleman66) has printed a Renault V8 engine from my files for his 1/24 B.E.2c project - see thread here: https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=12870.0 (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=12870.0)
I also sent a couple of 1/32 printed engines to Stephen (Lone Modeller) for his B.E.2a but he decided to go the hard way and scratch build the engine by himself. Brave man! :)
And probably the most well known of the parts I have designed are the almost complete inner structure for the WNW Fokker D.VII that is sold by Aviattic - https://www.aviattic.co.uk/store/p280/Shapeways_3D_Printed_1%2F32_Fokker_DVII_parts.html (https://www.aviattic.co.uk/store/p280/Shapeways_3D_Printed_1%2F32_Fokker_DVII_parts.html)
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Hi all,
The engine is completed as far as possible.
I've added the ignition leads and support rails, even though in reality the leads passed through the internal engine firewall.
As expected, painting a complete 3D printed engine wasn't that easy.
Sanding any print layer striations is not really possible on such detail.
I've not fitted the exhaust manifolds yet as I want to align them correctly to the exhaust stack pipes and fuselage later in the build,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/engdone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/engdone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/engdone3.jpg)
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Nice work Mike
Alexis
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Hi Beto,
Do you have links to your creations and their use in models?
Mike
Hugh (hrcoleman66) has printed a Renault V8 engine from my files for his 1/24 B.E.2c project - see thread here: https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=12870.0 (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=12870.0)
Hi Alberto,
So you're the one who designed the Fokker D.VII structure!!
I didn't know but congratulations on such a complex print design.
One of the most challenging but satisfying builds I've done.
https://mikesww1aircraftmodels.com/fok7strip.htm (https://mikesww1aircraftmodels.com/fok7strip.htm)
I've looked at your designs and they are exquisite.
I wonder if I could ever reach such standards :-\
Mike
I also sent a couple of 1/32 printed engines to Stephen (Lone Modeller) for his B.E.2a but he decided to go the hard way and scratch build the engine by himself. Brave man! :)
And probably the most well known of the parts I have designed are the almost complete inner structure for the WNW Fokker D.VII that is sold by Aviattic - https://www.aviattic.co.uk/store/p280/Shapeways_3D_Printed_1%2F32_Fokker_DVII_parts.html (https://www.aviattic.co.uk/store/p280/Shapeways_3D_Printed_1%2F32_Fokker_DVII_parts.html)
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Thank You Mike, I'm really honored for your compliments. And about your painted engine... all I can say is WOW!!! :o - Right now I am installing lots of fiddly 1mm and 0.8mm nuts and bolts into my 1/8 scale Renault engine, so I can't even think about a four times smaller version...
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Very fine results on that difficult material. Great to see you tackle this kit. I am sure I will have a lot of helpful info when I will start mine ;)
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First class engine - and I can well understand that it was not easy to paint. Sensible move to leave the exhausts until later.
Stephen.
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Your engine painting looks Fantastic! Well Done Mike!
RAGIII
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Bravo Mike, the end result gives no indication as to your trials. A beautiful job.
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Hi all,
Preparation of the fuselage and basic cockpit.
The fuselage halves were sand to remove resin artifacts from the mating edges.
Plastic 0.8 mm thick strips were secured to one fuselage half to aid with fuselage alignment during assembly (no locating pegs or holes).
The 3D printed cockpit side frames and bulkheads were assembled, including sanding the top curved edges to fit the contours of the fuselage when joined.
The actual aircraft had 'windows' in the fuselage to allow daylight to illuminate the instrument panels.
The two instrument panels were secured to the cockpit frames to align with the windows.
These are moulded as solid, to be painted silver and covered with acetate sheet.
Instead, I've cut out the three windows to match the supplied photo-etch window frames, which will have just the acetate sheet inserts,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/align.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/cockpit1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/windows4.jpg)
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Nice clean up and prep work Mike. Having the windows actually opened will be a very evident detail in this scale!
RAGIII
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Excellent progress Mike, and good call adding those alignment tabs. I'm keen to see how you tackle "glazing" the windows.
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Excellent progress Mike, and good call adding those alignment tabs. I'm keen to see how you tackle "glazing" the windows.
I usually add alignment tabs to resin kit fuselages as I find its best, especially as it's CA adhesive being used for resin.
Otherwise as soon as the fuselage is joined, any misalignment will be obvious and it'll be too late to separate the fuselage.
As for glazing those windows - kit does supply an acetate sheet for the windscreen and there's enough spare to cut out the three windows.
Hopefully with the pre-moulded windows removed, the acetate windows can be fitted under the photo-etch windows frames, using PVA adhesive.
Mike
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Hi all,
I've been looking at how the pilots seat was fitted in the BE2c.
The 'Lukgraph' kit has the seat fitted onto a metal cradle attached to the cockpit side frames.
The seat has is just a cushion and a padded backrest is fitted to the rear bulkhead.
However, I think this is based on the 'Vintage Aviator' reproduction BE2c.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/seats1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/vintageseat.jpg)
A BE2c restoration was carried out at the Musee de l'Airs on BE2c Serial No:9969.
As can be seen in the following photographs, a wicker seat is mounted on a wood or metal tray attached to the cockpit cross frame.
The tray is also braced with wires to the cockpit side frames.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/Musee de l'Airs BE2c 9969 restoration1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/Musee de l'Airs BE2c 9969 restoration2.jpg)
I think this could be a case of kit manufactures basing their kits on replica or museum aircraft.
Sometimes these aircraft are not always totally accurate, possibly due to modern aviation build regulations,
Mike
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Mike
The seats in the BE 2A were mounted on wood(?) frames which in turn were suspended and braced by wires to the fuselage sides. I think therefore that the Musee example is much more likely to be the accurate/representative one.
Stephen.
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Hi all,
After checking how the pilots seat was fitted in the BE2c, I believe the kit supplied photo-etch seat cradle is based on the 'Vintage Aviator' reproduction aircraft.
However the actual Wicker seat seems to have been mounted on a plinth which was attached to the cockpit side frame and cross member and braced by wires at its front corners.
Therefore I've represented this using 0.5 mm thick plastic card and 0.8 mm diameter plastic rod.
The following photographs shown the modification as well as the dry fitting of the assembly with the 'Barracuda' resin pilot and observer seats.
Note that in general, the observers seat had a higher back rest than that of the pilot.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/pit1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/pit2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/pit3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/pit4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/pit5.jpg)
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I'm very surprised at this difference as TVAL always went to extreme lengths to get every detail right, to the point one could almost call their aircraft "late production". But we all know there are variations in aircraft in service so perhaps both are correct?
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I'm very surprised at this difference as TVAL always went to extreme lengths to get every detail right, to the point one could almost call their aircraft "late production". But we all know there are variations in aircraft in service so perhaps both are correct?
Hi Zac,
Could be both are correct, although as I said, it could be the 'Vintage Aviation' BE2c could have been mofified to comply with either modern day regulations or even pilot preference.
It's always tricky to choose between new build 'replication' or true 'restoration' aircraft.
Out of curiosity, I'll ask Richard Alexander - if anyone knows he will,
Mike
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I think both options are correct. At some point into the production, B.E.2c's were equipped with armored seats for the pilot and many were retrofitted with those steel seats. If you go with the wicker seat, it was on a platform held in place by 8 cables.
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I think both options are correct. At some point into the production, B.E.2c's were equipped with armored seats for the pilot and many were retrofitted with those steel seats. If you go with the wicker seat, it was on a platform held in place by 8 cables.
That's the sort of thing I was thinking of - especially that either could well be correct!
Out of curiosity, I'll ask Richard Alexander - if anyone knows he will
An excellent idea!
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Digging through my files I've just found an original blueprint showing the details to replace the steel seat for a wicker one. Looks like front line units used the armored seat and training and home defense machines had the lighter, wicker seat.
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Hi Beto,
Many thanks - you're reference material is way more detailed than I have.
I've also had the following reply from Richard Alexander:
"Hi Mike, If I recall correctly the pilot of the early production BE.2c (70hp Renault, skid undercarriage, downwards facing exhausts etc) had the shelf with wicker seat, as per the restoration.
The late production BE.2c (90hp RAF engine, side or upwards exhaust and "V" strut undercarriage) had the armoured seat as per the TVAL photo.
And, just in case you're interested, the BE.2e/g pilot seat was also armoured, but of a different design.
The BE.2f pilot seat was just like the late production BE.2c armoured seat, from which they were converted. I hope this helps."
So it seems the later BE2c operational aircraft, fitted with the RAF 1a engine etc, had an armoured seat cradle.
Earlier BE2c aircraft, fitted with the Renault engine etc, had the earlier Wicker seats fitted.
As the 'LukGraph' model has the later RAF 1a engine etc, the armoured seat would be correct.
Given this information from Beto and Richard, I can either modify my 'modification' or remove it and fit the cradle,
Mike
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Just as I suspected - thanks Beto for your info, and Richard via Mike 8)
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Hi all,
The cockpit assembly is finished.
Note that I changed the scratch built pilot seat support frame as the kit armoured seat 'cradle' is correct for this version of the BE2c.
Built OOB apart from:
The kit supplied 3D printed seats replaced with BarracudaCast’ British wicker AGS seats (BR32234).
Instrument decals replaced with ‘Airscale’ Generic WW1 instruments (AS32 WW1).
Added a observers half firewall as protection from the engine.
Ckpit bracing is 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament and blackened 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tubes.
Kit photo-etch seat belts/straps replaced with ‘HGW’ seat belts for the RE8 (HGW132027).
The forward engine support frames and fuel tank are still to be fitted,
Mike
PS: I forgot to add a fuel contents indicator tube onto the pilots instrument panel.
Added now using 0.4 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube, partially dipped in 'Tamiya' Clear Yellow (X24).
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/pitdone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/pitdone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/pitdone3.jpg)
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That's a fine looking interior Mike. I applaud your efforts to make it accurate.
Barracuda must sell a lot of those wicker seats!
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Hi all,
Change of plan.
I've decided to model a different BE2c squadron aircraft.
No.13 Squadron:
No.13 Squadron RFC was formed on the 10th of January 1915, equipped with twelve newly built RAF BE2c aircraft and was dispatched as a Corps reconnaissance unit to France in October 1915.
The squadron served at Savy in France during 1916. Later the Squadron was also equipped with RAF BE2d and BE2e versions.
The role of reconnaissance was maintained until the armistice. In April 1917 the squadron was re-equipped with the R.E.8.
BE2c Serial No.2635
RAF BE2c, Serial No:2635 was built by Ruston-Proctor and was delivered to the newly formed squadron as factory fresh.
The aircraft were finished overall in Clear Doped Linen (CDL) with white wheel covers and battle ship grey painted nose panels and cowls.
The wheel covers were painted as roundels, which was at the pilots preference.
On the 23rd of April 1916, a squadron making was allocated , which consisted of a narrow black horizontal stripe, which was applied to the sides of the fuselage and spanned between the front of the pilots cockpit and the leading edge of the tail plane.
This marking was retained when the aircraft were replaced with the R.E.8.
This particular aircraft has a Type C camera mounting rack on the fuselage starboard side.
The aircraft was also fitted with racks for carrying 112lb ‘Cooper’ bombs.
A Lewis machine gun was fitted for the observers and a second for the pilot. Ammunition drums were carried in racks mounted on the sides of the fuselage.
It’s unclear whether BE2c Serial No.2635 was lost in action or retired and struck off charge.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/header2.jpg)
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Hi all,
The fuselage is now closed up.
The join between the two halves (CA adhesive) needed some filling and sanding.
I airbrushed grey primer over the fuselage which shows up any joint or seam gaps etc.
Then re-filled and re-primed and sanded until a smooth joint was achieved.
After test fitting, I'll be leaving the engine out until towards the end of the build as it makes it easier for painting and applying decals etc.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/fusfilled.jpg)
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A bombed-up BE? A great choice Mike, and how wonderful to have history to draw on for your subject.
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Hi all,
One area of the fuselage may need to be addressed.
The underside of the nose is too square in shape and should be more rounded.
This can be seen on the following photographs, the last of which is the reproduction BE2c at the 'Vintage Aviator Ltd'.
The nose on the kit looks more like that of the R.E.8.
Whether this can be rectified remains to be seen,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/nose3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/nose2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/nose.jpg)
RE8 nose
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/re8.jpg)
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Hi all,
With careful sanding (to avoid breaking through the corners) the kit nose can be re-profiled,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/nose3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/nose4.jpg)
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Great correction! I will remember about it when I will be building my BE2c.
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Lovely work, Mike ;)
Bob
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Good catch Mike and nice work!
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Super work on the interior and I like the "New" choice of schemes. Good catch on the Nose shape although personally I find it a bit disappointing that the issue was there on a kit of this quality and price range.
RAGIII
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Another area that worries me is the combing behind the pilots cockpit. The Plywood combing should follow the line of the stringers all the way up to the padded surrounds. But for some reason, Lukgraph have changed the angle.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52055734634_24594bd4fd_c.jpg)
This, I think, will be more difficult to rework.
Great job so far!
Cheers,
Hugh
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Beautifull work on the interior Mike. I love what you've done to the Barracuda wicker seats.
Great correction of the rounding of the underside of the nose!
Willem
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Another area that worries me is the combing behind the pilots cockpit. The Plywood combing should follow the line of the stringers all the way up to the padded surrounds. But for some reason, Lukgraph have changed the angle.
This, I think, will be more difficult to rework.
Great job so far!
Cheers,
Hugh
Hi Hugh,
Yes you are correct.
I did notice that, but as you say, it'll be difficult to rectify.
The plywood rear decking is tapered to align with the linen covering over the fuselage stringers.
I think 'Lukgraph' assumed that as wood, it wasn't profiled, but fitted horizontal.
Unfortunately it can't, like the nose profile, be sanded, as the fuselage skin is too thin and would be open up.
A more obvious, but not as easily rectified, error on the kit,
Mike
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Hi all,
Another area that I think needs attention.
The kit instructions indicate that the left and right tailplane's should be attached to the rear sides of the fuselage, using two rods.
The illustration shows the inboard ends of the tailplane's being 90 degrees to their leading edges and noticeably clear of the fuselage sides along their entire length.
However, it seems that in reality, the inboard ends of the tailplane's were angled to follow the sides of the fuselage and the only noticeable gap was at the rear, where the fuselage tapered to its end.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/TP3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/TP1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/TP2.jpg)
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Hi all,
Tailplane's:
I cut the inboard ends of both tailplane's to match the fuselage sides.
This only needed a small amount of trimming so doesn't alter the span of the tailplane's much.
The fuselage was drilled through with 0.8 mm diameter holes at the tailplane location points.
Two lengths of 0.8 mm diameter Brass rod were secured through the fuselage using thin CA adhesive.
Both tailplanes were drilled with 0.8 mm diameter holes to match the added rods.
The tailplane's were test fitted to ensure they were horizontal to the fuselage and at 90 degrees to the fuselage centre line.
Now the fuselage (possibly),
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/TP4.jpg)
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Another area that worries me is the combing behind the pilots cockpit. The Plywood combing should follow the line of the stringers all the way up to the padded surrounds. But for some reason, Lukgraph have changed the angle.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52055734634_24594bd4fd_c.jpg)
This, I think, will be more difficult to rework.
Great job so far!
Cheers,
Hugh
Just out of interest, this is a BE2d built under license by the 'Vulcan Motor & Engine Co'.
It was the 76th of 200 built under contract 87/A/124 dated October 1915.
The aircraft was flown by No.67 Squadron RFC.
On the 17th July 1916 and piloted by 2nd Lt. A.H.Earle with passenger Lt. G.L.Paget, it left Deir el Belah, Palestine.
It was shot down on route by a German fighter and both occupants were killed.
As a BE2d is does differ from the BE2c, but not concerning the alignment of the fuselage rear to pilots cockpit or the engine with its cowl shape,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/angle2.jpg)
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Beautiful work so far Mike.
WD
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Hi all,
I'm moving my hosting server for the forum build logs photographs to another server.
In the meantime, all of the build log photographs in the forum will not show.
I'll post once I get them back online with the new server.
My web site (link in signature) is OK,
Mike
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Good luck with the move Mike, I'm excited to see what's next in your build.
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Hi all,
I'm moving my hosting server for the forum build logs photographs to another server.
In the meantime, all of the build log photographs in the forum will not show.
I'll post once I get them back online with the new server.
My web site (link in signature) is OK,
Mike
Hi all,
Back online and with the same URL links,
Mike
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Hi all,
Here's the re-profiled fuselage rear decking panel.
This was done by sanding away the decking panel, the cutting a new panel shape from 0.2 mm thick plastic card.
That was glued in position then sanded with the flats of the fuselage stringers re-instated by scrapping.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/deck1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/deck2.jpg)
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Hi all,
A few more areas of the model that anyone building it might want to be aware off.
1. The instructions have no call out for the parts, apart from the supplied photo-etch parts.
This could cause some confusion with the cockpit, as parts are supplied to make a trainer version.
2. The instruction give the impression that the lower wings butt up to the sides of the fuselage.
In face there should be a gap between the wings and fuselage, exposing the front and rear spars and attachments.
This is important as if the lower wings are not positioned correctly, the interplane struts to the upper wing will tilt inwards at the bottom, when they should be vertical.
I've added a brass rod through the fuselage for extra support and added tube spacers for the necessary gap between wings and fuselage.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/spars2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/spars3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/spars4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/spars5.jpg)
3. The rigging diagram in the instructions fails to show the interconnecting aileron control wires between the upper and lower ailerons.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/ailcontrol.jpg)
Also only one drag wire is shown from the engine bearers to the upper wing, whereas there were two, one to the top of the forward cabane struts and a second to the top of the forward, inboard interplane struts.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/anchorsdrag.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/fusrig8.jpg)
4. The rigging diagram in the instructions shows only two bracing wires for the fuselage cabane struts, whereas there were actually four.
A wire was attached to the tops of the two rear cabane struts and also the forward cabane struts.
These wires were routed through openings at each side of the pilots decking panel and into the cockpit, where there were attached to the cockpit side frames.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/cabwires.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/cabwires2.jpg)
5. The gravity fuel tank (behind the engine) and the main fuel tank (under the observers seat) were interconnected with a fuel transfer pipe.
A fuel supply pipe was also connected between the gravity tank and the engine.
That pipe won't be seen on the model, but the gravity to main tank pipe can be seen from the observers cockpit.
I added this pipe using flexible black tube.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/fuelpipe.jpg)
6. The 3D printed tail skid is intended to be butt glued to the rear, underside of the fuselage.
I felt, given the size and weight of the final model by prove to be too weak.
Therefore I reinforcred the centre strut of the tail skid using 0.5 mm diameter rod.
Apart from that, it's all going quite well ;)
Mike
-
Your research is impeckable as always Mike!
Willem
-
Welcome back Mike! Your work on the fuselage is excellent.
I know you've taken a look at Jamo's TVAL BE.2c galleries before but I suggest they may be helpful when it comes to rigging - if only to provide clearer images to confirm period photos.
-
Welcome back Mike! Your work on the fuselage is excellent.
I know you've taken a look at Jamo's TVAL BE.2c galleries before, but I suggest they may be helpful when it comes to rigging - if only to provide clearer images to confirm period photos.
Yes they are ;)
I go by them to confirm period shots or if there's no period shots available,
Mike
-
The lower wing mounting points are well done Mike.
I take my hat off to your beautiful resin models.
Servus
Bertl
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Hi all,
Another fix required.
The rigging diagrams in the kit instructions fail to show a single bracing wire fitted outboard from the bottom of the inboard front interplane struts.
This wire was routed diagonally up to the underside of the front spar of the upper wing, midway between the inboard and outboard interplane struts.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/bracewing.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wingbrace.jpg)
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Duly taking notes, Mike. Thx for your research!
-
I didn't want to "teach you to suck eggs" (always a weird saying to this millennial's ears!) but I'm glad to hear it :)
-
I didn't want to "teach you to suck eggs" (always a weird saying to this millennial's ears!) but I'm glad to hear it :)
Yes, Jame's photographs of true to type reproductions are a great data source for confirmation,
Mike
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Duly taking notes, Mike. Thx for your research!
Hi Przemol,
I've found the 'Lukgraph' clear backed linen effect decals to be very similar to those of 'Aviattic'.
They are pretty tough and seem to adhere well to the model surface.
However, one thing to watch out for is that the kit supplied markings decals are semi-translucent, especially the white colour.
As such, unless the painted surface under the decals is white, they will show through what is underneath,
Mike
-
Hi all,
A few updates.
I've primed then masked off the wings, fuselage and other flight surfaces, then pre-shaded the internal structures.
This was over sprayed with white primer to 'knock back' the pre-shading.
The linen effect decals will be applied before the kit markings.
The fuselage nose was painted with 'Tamiya' Neutral Grey (XF53) and the cockpit decking panel and under fuselage with Dark Yellow (XF60), in preparation for applying wood effects.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/masking2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/masking3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wood1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wood2.jpg)
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More beautiful work Mike, bravo!
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wood1.jpg)
For some reason this one really appeals. I think it's the seats and the ever-so-slightly soiled engine cowling: she's really coming together!
-
Just getting caught up with your build Mike and as always , you never disappoint us . Outstanding so far !
Alexis
-
Neat and clean work. The painting is exceptional as always!
RAGIII
-
Wonderful work Mike.
WD
-
Hi all,
The Clear Doped Linen (CDL) decals have been applied on the fuselage, wings, ailerons, fin, tail plane's and elevators.
The 'LukGraph' supplied CDL decals supplied with the Premium kit are very much like those from 'Aviattic'.
They are quite strong and adhere well to the model surfaces.
The kit supplied marking decals were applied onto the CDL decals.
The Serial No.2635 had to be made from spare decals, as the kit does not have the markings for this particular aircraft.
The black stripe marking for No.13 Squadron was from the 'XtraDecal' black strip set (XPS1).
Now onto applying the wood effects to the fuselage,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/decdone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/decdone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/decdone3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/decdone4.jpg)
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Lovely decal work Mike!
-
Excellent work!!
Steve
-
Hi all,
Wood effect Applied using 'Windsor and Newton' Griffin Alkyd Raw Sienna.
Some shadowing applied to wings and fuselage using 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).
Cockpit padding brush painted with 'AL Interactive' Brown Leather.
Nose number 1 airbrushed with mask cut on a 'Cricut' Air 2 cutter.
Now onto further weathering,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wood3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wood4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wood5.jpg)
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Some really lovely decal work, there, Mike! I'm enjoying this thread! Regards, Marc
-
Hi all,
Well it happens >:(
I accidentally spilled a bottle of White Spirits over my modelling workspace and, unfortunately the model.
I tried to dab it off but it had already dissolved areas of the applied decals on all of the models parts.
As I had no CDL decal replacements and no wanting to purchase and wait for replacements, I decide to go to Plan B.
This required the removal of as much of the decal as possible, leaving some in place as weathering effect.
The fuselage took the main hit, but fortunately not inside the fuselage.
So I've stripped all of the decals (CDL, roundels and black stripes).
The black stripes were airbrushed and replacement roundels and 'lift here' decals were applied.
My plan is to apply 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt and Grime fine clay wash (which I normally apply anyway).
Hopefully the wash will compliment the residual CDL decal to give the model a well worn, war weary look.
We'll see,
Mike
-
Mike, I'm really sorry to hear that!
But you are not alone: I once managed to knock over a bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin >:( That dissolves everything that stands in the way ...
Good luck with fixing the damage!
Cheers,
Frank
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Ouch! These things happen! I know you will persevere, Mike!
-
Oh dear, Mike!! I'm confident you can recover from this with an even better model!
-
Ouch! That hurts just reading about it Mike...
I had a similar mishap a while ago with Tamaya Extra Thin, but the only casualty was my cutting mat. I could save my work with a quick wipe.
I am confident that a man with your skills and experience can turn disaster into fortune though and make it look even better than intended!
Looking forward to the pictures of her resurection.
Willem
-
Having had to recover from Numerous disasters I feel your pain! I am sure you will make this one a winner like all of your Models!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
PLAN B.
Damaged CDL decal, fuselage decals removed.
Black squadron stripes airbrushed, fuselage and 'Lift Here' decals replaced.
'Flory Models' Dark Dirt and Grime clay washes applied.
Sealed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) clear lacquer.
Hopefully a more dirty, 'war weary' finish.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/5.jpg)
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Nice save!! I've never tried the Alclad clear. Might give it a shot - looks good.
Steve
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Excellent recovery Mike. Looks better than My painting without a Spill to repair !
RAGIII
-
Nice save!! I've never tried the Alclad clear. Might give it a shot - looks good.
Steve
Hi Steve,
I always use that lacquer for final finish and sealing.
Many have problems with Alclad's not drying fully and still being tacky to the touch way after other paints would be fully dry.
I've found this to be true in some cases, but airbrushing in light coats and allowing them to dry between coats is the way to go.
I also wear lint free cotton or nitril surgical type gloves when handling Alclad treated parts.
That way you won't have any direct finger to paint contact and with no heat, no tackyness,
Mike
-
Hi all,
The kit supplies a photo-etch carrier for three spare ammunition drums for the Lewis machine guns.
Various profiles and photographs show these carriers to have storage for different amounts of ammunition drums.
The photograph below show a captured No.13 Squadron BE2c with a four drum carrier, as does the colour profile I'm using for this model.
Therefore I chose to make this type of carrier from 0.2 mm thick plastic card.
This was primed white then airbrushed with 'Tamiya' Dark Yellow (XF60).
I then brushed Windsor and Newton Raw Sienna (Griffin Alykld).
The four ammunition drums are those from the replacement 'GasPatch' Lewis Mk.1 stripped half heatsinks (32-32052) set.
They were airbrushed with 'Tamiya' Gloss Black (X1), then with 'Alclad' Steel (ALC-112).
The rounds were brushed painted with 'Mr. Colour' Brass (219) with 'AK Interactive' Brown Leather (AK3031) for the hand straps.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/13captured.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/ammo.jpg)
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Following your build with great interest!
-
That worked out perfectly!!
Steve
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Mike,
So sorry to hear of your mishap, I've had a few lately myself, but luckily for me I was able to save model bits and pieces from my own ham-fistedness. What a beautiful save you made of it though.
This build continues to inspire.
WD
-
Ammo Drums and scratched bin look awesome Mike!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
The engine is now fitted, including the upper auxiliary fuel tank and it's tube connecting it to the main fuel tank under the observers seat.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/engin.jpg)
The kit supplied top cowl is supplied as either resin or photo-etch, but neither seem curved enough at the top when fitted.
Also the RAF 1a engine had baffle plates fitted between the engine cylinders and these are not provided for in the kit.
Therefore it looks like I'll need to make the cowl and baffles instead,
Mike
-
Hi all,
A few more observations of areas of the model not included.
Later versions of the BE2c had an access panel on the right side of the fuselage and rear of the pilot’s cockpit. This panel is not included on the kit fuselage and will need to be created.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/accesspanel2.jpg)
Later versions of the BE2c had either one or two circular access panels on the left side of the nose, on the triangular panel. This panel is not included on the kit.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/accesspanel.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/accesspanel3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/accesspanel4.jpg)
Also most BE2c aircraft had a twin pitot tube fitted to an outboard interplane strut. Also not included in the kit.
Mike
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Interesting observations, Mike. Looks like you have your work cut out for you - especially with those engine baffles. Great progress so far, by the way.
Cheers,
Gary
-
Hi all,
The weapons are now finished, although the observers Lewis will be finally positioned on its swivel mounting once the rigging etc is completed.
The Lewis machine gun for the observer was mounted on a tubular swivel arm located centrally between the observer and pilots cockpits.
The Lewis machine gun for the pilot was mounted to the side of the cockpit and angled to fire obliquely outboard.
Both weapons and the spare ammunition drums are the ‘GasPatch’ Lewis Mk.1 stripped half heat sinks (32-32052).
The observers weapon has a 0.3 mm diameter rod fitted to allow it to swivel on the gun mounting.
Similarly the pilots weapon has a rod fitted to locate it into a hole drilled into the side of the fuselage.
I chose not to use the kit supplied photo-etch mounting for the pilots weapon as is was way to flimsy.
Both weapons were primed with 'Tamiya' Gloss Black (X1) then airbrushed with 'Alclad' Gun Metal (ALC120).
Then ‘Mr. Colour’ Super Metallic - Super Iron (203) was dry brushed over the weapons.
Finally 'Tamiya' Hull Red (XF9) was applied to the handles and 'AK Interactive' Brown Leather (AK3031) to the drum straps.
A light wash os 'AK Interactive' Kerosene (AK2039) was applied over the ammunition drums.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/gunsdone.jpg)
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Stunning work Mike!
RAGIII
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Nice work!! The late model differences do not apply to your ship-correct? Not very familiar with the type so hoping these aren't changes you have to make at this stage.
Steve
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Nice work!! The late model differences do not apply to your ship-correct? Not very familiar with the type so hoping these aren't changes you have to make at this stage.
Steve
Hi Steve,
I've researched as much as I'm able and it does seem these changes do apply to most of the later BE2c versions.
The kit seems to have been modeled on the later version of the BE2c although even then, there were differences.
The kit appears to be of an earlier 'late' version BE2c as, for example, the observers cockpit is smaller and further rearwards in the fuselage and with a smaller windscreen.
Also the fin upper edge is straight.
The later 'late' version BE2c had a larger observers cockpit, which was moved forward in the fuselage and also had a larger windscreen.
Some had a larger fin with a curved upper edge and Lewis machine guns filled for both the observer and pilot.
Also bomb racks and camera's could be fitted for offensive or reconnaissance missions.
The lower wings were no longer fitted directly to the fuselage and instead had a gap between the two, exposing the front and rear wing spars and their fittings.
Right or wrong I'm adding the changes to the basic model kit.
I did message 'Lukgraph' with some of my observations I thought were important.
They replied thanks, but it was too late to change any that might apply to the BE2e/f kit to be released soon.
For example, the recently released renders of that aircraft indicate the similar anomalies on the fuselage.
Mike
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Well you've certainly done your part to make the modelling community aware of the necessary corrections. Thanks again!
Steve
-
Hi all,
On most BE2c aircraft, linen was wrapped around the four fuselage cabane struts and the landing gear struts.
This was done to protect the struts and to help prevent the wood from splitting.
To represent the linen wrapping I used cut thin strips of plumbers Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) tape.
This tape is by nature very thin and will self-grip to tools and your fingers, so patience and repeated cutting will be necessary.
The tape was secured in position using thin CA adhesive.
Then airbrushed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC311), treated with 'Flory Models' Grime wash and finally clear coated again.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wrap1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wrap2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wrappingsdone.jpg)
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Outstanding...
-
What a great idea!
All be starting this kit soon so your build notes and research are much appreciated Mike.
-
Great idea for wrapping the struts...and great results!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
Well, the most difficult part of this model build, the top engine cowl, is done.
Without going into detail (as it's covered in my build log), I had to effectively scratch the cowl.
The kit supplied photo-etch or resin cowls were discarded.
I used the centre section of the photo-etch panel, annealed and bent into shape.
The retaining straps from the cowl onto the cylinder head bolts, the cylinder baffles and the fire wall were made from 0.2 mm thick plastic card.
The centre support strut under the cowl and into the engine block is painted 0.4 mm diameter tube.
Now it's onto pre-rigging,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/tpaneldone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/tpaneldone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/tpaneldone3.jpg)
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Looking darned good, Mike!
-
Hi all,
Just a few updates.
The bomb racks, wheels, interplane struts and propeller.
I'm now finishing off the eight 'Hale' heavy case Mk.II/C bombs,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/bomb3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wheel2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/interplanes.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/prop3.jpg)
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That looks just great...
-
Lovely stuff, Mike!
-
Love this!!
Steve
-
Hi all,
A couple more updates.
The photo-etch camera mounting, which represents the CFS Mk.II/C mounting.
Also the three fuselage windows are done.
The photo-etch frames for the two square side windows were secured in position over the created openings, using thin CA adhesive.
I then infilled the frames with 'Microscale' Krystal Kleer, which once cured leaves a transparent film.
The opening in the larger rectangular window is too large to apply Krystal Kleer straight off.
Therefore I cut a very thin strip from the supplied windscreen acetate sheet.
The strip was just long enough to span across the centre, underside of the photo-etch frame.
This effectively creates two smaller openings for applying the Krystal Kleer.
The frame was then added to the fuselage in the same manner used for the side windows,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/CFSMk4done.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/windows5.jpg)
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More nice work. I'm amazed the Kleer could span even that small window!
Steve
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More nice work. I'm amazed the Kleer could span even that small window!
Steve
Hi Steve,
Yes, it's surprising how much of an opening you can cover with Krystal Kleer.
I use a toothpick loaded at the tip and just work it from corner to corner.
It'll cling to itself and cover the opening.
Although it seems too much has been applied, it will shrink as it dries.
Left overnight to cure and you have a transparent window,
Mike
-
More Really Good Stuff Mike !
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
The eight 'Hale' 20lb heavy case MkII/C bombs.
The red and green stripes were decals taken from another model kit.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/bomb4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/bomb5.jpg)
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The coaming windows and bombs look excellent Mike! Krystal Kleer and the like are beautiful tools to have.
-
Awesome work on the bombs and rack!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
The pre-rigging is done.
The aileron, rudder and elevator control rigging will be fitted after the wings have been fitted and final rigged.
That way the exposed control lines have less chance of being damaged during handling.
Also the landing gear and rigging will be fitted later,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/prerig1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/prerig2.jpg)
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Impressive rigging prep Mike!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
Tricky to fit but now the pre-rigged upper wing has been fitted.
I've kept the temporary elastic bands over the wings.
This is to keep them the wings restrained until the rigging is done.
The solid lower wings can flex slightly on their locating rods, which can cause the strut joints to separate.
That's due to having to use CA adhesive, which is not as strong a bond as many believe,
Now onto the final rigging,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wingon.jpg)
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THAT is a lot of rigging!! Looks good though.
Steve
-
This kit is going on my building table in the next few weeks,
your build log is a big help!
-
Man alive, this is great!!
WD
-
This kit is going on my building table in the next few weeks,
your build log is a big help!
Hi Grant,
In that case I'd advise the rest of the family to leave and take a good sedative ;)
Mike
-
In that case I'd advise the rest of the family to leave and take a good sedative ;)
Sound advice!! :o
-
Your rigging work is continuing to be impressive. Looking forward to seeing it Tightened up!
RAGIII
-
Yes, the kit looks like an intense build!
Hope I can do the it justice, yours is looking magnificent Mike, great workmanship.
-
Sharp work! Nice to a see a BE2 availble, finally!
-
Great progress, Mike. The rigging looks daunting!
Cheers,
Gary
-
Hi all,
The wings are now fully rigged.
This includes twin flying wires, single landing wires, incidence wires, wing brace wires, drag wires and cabane strut cross and fuselage bracing wing wires.
I've yet to airbrush the rigging to knock back the shine..
Next up is fitting and rigging the landing gear so as to lift the wings and prevent contact damage to the aileron controls (when fitted).
Then it'll be ailerons, rudder, elevator and their control line rigging.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wingrig1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wingrig2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wingrig3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wingrig4.jpg)
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Most beautiful.
-
Agree, outstanding work and detail!
-
Great job there Mike! 8)
Cheers: Kent
-
Amazing. I'm sure you've mentioned here or on another build but what is your rigging material and gauge etc?
Steve
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Hi all,
The aileron control line have now been rigged.
It's difficult to make out on the photographs as it's a larger models to focus on.
Next up is the landing gear before I move onto the rudder and elevator controls,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wingrig5.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wingrig6.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/wingrig7.jpg)
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Amazing. I'm sure you've mentioned here or on another build but what is your rigging material and gauge etc?
Steve
Hi Steve,
I tend to use 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament for control line and some bracing wires.
Structural rigging I use 0.12 mm diameter mono-filament.
I use 'Steelon' or 'Stroft GTM' line, both transparent,
Mike
-
Hi all,
The kit supplied landing gear comprises two ‘V’ struts and the axle/fairing.
The axle is intended to be glued to the bottom of the two ‘V’ struts.
However, there is nothing to retain the axle at the bottom of the struts, except the CA adhesive under the axle and onto the bottom of the struts.
The weight of the model bearing down on the axle and wheels with only the CA adhesive taking the weight is a joint failure waiting to happen.
Therefore this needs to be addressed.
Also the ’bungee’ suspension cords are retained between two discs on the ends of the axle, which are not represented in the kit.
Finally the internal strengthening rod within the axle protrudes from either end for mounting the wheels.
However, the protrusions do not go far enough into the wheels, which is another weak point.
Onward, upward,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/gear1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/bungee.jpg)
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Stunning rigging Mike, truly stunning! Reminds me why the single-bay BE.2f is my favourite ;)
I'm keen to see how you tackle the landing gear bungees.
-
Hi all,
Landing gear and tail skid now done.
I managed to twist and pull the axle metal rod from the axle fairing.
This was replaced with a brass rod, which was longer to fit deeper into the wheels.
The axle retainer discs for the bungee suspension cords were cut from 0.2 mm thick plastic card with a central hole to fit onto the axle rod.
The axle assembly was held into the 'V' struts with CA adhesive, backed up with 0.2 mm diameter annealed copper wire.
The bungee cord, represented by 'EZ' line White (heavy), was then wrapped across and around the axle ends, between the retainer discs.
The model now needs to be held by the fuselage.
Therefore, before adding the elevator and rudder controls and wires, I'll need to fit the remaining parts to the forward fuselage.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/geardone.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/skiddone.jpg)
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Lovely work Mike.
-
Nice work!!
Steve
-
Great work Mike!
WD
-
Hi all,
A few more updates.
Bombs and bomb control quadrant and cables added.
Hand operated fuel pressure pump added.
Engine exhausts with retaining frames added.
Windscreens added.
Upper wing straps added.
Ammunition drum rack added.
Pilot and observers machine guns added.
The tail planes and elevators added.
The fin and rudder added.
Kit supplied 3D printed wing skids replaced with 0.6 mm diameter blackened Brass tube.
The kit supplied CFS Mk.4 bomb sight has been binned.
It was so frail it literally fell off in bits!!
I'll need to make a representation of one instead.
Also the propeller will be fitted (last).
Finally the rudder and elevator controls and cables are still to be added.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/bits1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/bits2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/bits3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/bits4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/bits5.jpg)
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That's really coming together in the home stretch!
Steve
-
;D , awesome stuff Mike !
Alexis
-
Really an amazing piece of modelling. Great eye for the detail!
Andreas
-
Hi all,
Bomb sight recovered from kit part with extras added from 0.3 mm diameter tube and 0.2 mm thick plastic sheet.
Also the pitot tube added from 0.3 mm diameter tube (blackened).
Just the elevator and rudder controls to add then it's onto the figures,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/sightdone.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/pitot3.jpg)
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Hi all,
Elevator control cables rigged.
Now onto the rudder,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/elev1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/elev2.jpg)
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Nice work!
Steve
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Just beautiful Mike!
WD
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Hi all,
The tail plane bracing wires added.
Rudder control cables added.
Propeller fitted.
That's it for the aircraft.
Now onto the figures,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/ruddone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/ruddone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/propon.jpg)
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She definitely looks like she's been through a lot. Some lovely rigging there Mike!
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There have been times while scrolling through these pages, that I have had to remind my self that the photos are of a model and not of a museum replica.
Amazing.
Cheers,
Hugh
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Absolutely beautiful Mike, outstanding work!
Andrew
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Hi all,
Figures done.
‘Model Cellar’ British RFC pilot and gunner (MC32026).
Painted using 'Tamiya' and 'AK Interactive' acrylics and 'Citadel' paints for the flesh.
Once again many thanks for your comments and encouragement - most appreciated.
I'll post the completed model once it's in its display case,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/pilot.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/gunner.jpg)
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Great build, Mike! And those figures.. beautiful!
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Fantastic byuild Mike everything looks gorgeous!
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Fantastic work Mike
Alexis
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Hi all,
Completed model photographs are now up in the 'Completed Models' page,
Mike