forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: IvotB on January 08, 2013, 04:17:26 AM
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As I promised this afternoon I am going to post some progress of my Fokker D.VII here. I see that Epeeman has started a thread on thesame subject. I am sure that his version is going to look more interesting as he is going for the lozenge version D of the kit. I am following the D version as well, but it should in the end become an LVA version as it has flown in the Netherlands in 1919 and 1920. The D.VII have remained into service until 1936. Visually it will be quite boring compared to the WNW versions, but it will be a dutch plane. So the lower surfaces will be LVA blue and the upper parts LVA khaki with orange balls showing its nationality ;)
My progress so far:
The 'after market' decals for the LVA Fokker have been purchased more than 2 years ago. At that time Dutchdecal has produced a set of decals especially for Wingnut Wings 1:32 kits meant for LVA versions. There are a number of options for a Fokker D.VII, but also for a Bristol F2B, SE-5A and the Sopwith Pup. The WNW Sopwith Pup kit has been ordered by me already 2 years ago, but is still awaiting construction.
These are a number of the LVA Fokker D.VII options of the decal set:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_24421600x1200_zps39260512.jpg)
There is only one version that can be build with the WNW kit, as only 10 D.VII's from the LVA were equipped with the Mercedes DIII engine. All others had a BMW engine. Perhaps WNW will bring out a BMW version of the D.VII as well. They will probably have at least one customer for it.
Since arrival of the kit, I have been studying the manual and comparing the kits versions with the WNW versions. Some issues were not clear at first, but an E-mail to WNW soon recieved a reply from Richard Alexander claryfying most questions. I was very pleased with this service.
Now on the 29th I started construction by airbrushing most items that are necessary for the interior.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25771600x1200_zpsb29713b8.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25781600x1200_zps5cd6ae9f.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25791600x1200_zps3e690cc1.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25831600x1200_zpsc001b85d.jpg)
After this there is still a lot of work to be done before assembly can start. The instrument panel for instance has been sprayed light wood and has afterwards been treated by the wood creating tip at the WNW site by putting burnt omber oil paint on top. It has now recieved a cote of clear varnish to start with the decals and some separate parts.
After some painting and decalling it was time to start construction.
First the main items:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25851600x1200_zps4533f286.jpg)
You see here the frames, the cockpit floor with the rudder pedals and the control stick, the instrument panel, the back wall of the cockpit with the pilot's seat and a sub assembly consisting of the fire wall, gasoline tank, empty belt box and ammunition box.
Most work has been done for the instrument panel:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25861600x1200_zps62f050bd.jpg)
Most signs cannot be read, but you see benzin at the left and luft to the right and underneath the handle you can actually read BOSCH.
I am not sure if the german words on the panel are correct. I expect that they had been replaced by dutch versions.
I then first fitted the subassembly to the right hand steel tube frame:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25891600x1200_zps2e2f559f.jpg)
Then the cockpit floor followed. The rudder pedals apparantly found a bearing between the empty belt box and the ammunition box, because it fits in between and there is a small dent in the box to position this part correctly. I just glued the items to the left hand frame and fitted the right hand frame without glue to be able to position all the parts first before glueing all parts together.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25901600x1200_zpsc222ca14.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25911600x1200_zpsb5f2928d.jpg)
Next in line is the instrument panel:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25921600x1200_zps62d22e0b.jpg)
And then the supports for the Spandau machine guns and the altimeter or rpm meter:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25931600x1200_zps7ea45313.jpg)
Now you won't see much of the instrument panel anymore, but that goes for a lot of items in this kit.
And last the back wall with the pilot's seat:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25961600x1200_zpscaaa6ee7.jpg)
And here is the full interior from the side.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25971600x1200_zps5cae45cc.jpg)
I couldn't resist test fitting it into the fuselage halves and as for everything up until now everything fits beautiful:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_25981600x1200_zpsd090861b.jpg)
Next step is the Mercedes D.III engine and the 4 parts for the support in the forward frame section.
I am following the color guide of Wingnut Wings, although it is rather uncertain that everything has been thesame in the LVA D.VII version. I was a little bit surprised at the brass tank for instance, but in a replica built by Vroege Vogels, there was also an unpainted brass tank fitted. I have also seen pictures of metal instrument panels in stead of the wooden version. These instrument panels are a study in itself as I have noticed a large number of variants in indicators and their locations.
The interior still needs som fine tuning. The compass needs to be installed and the control wires should be attached. If you want to really go into detailling you might consider introducing some plumbing between the handpump and the tank and ofcourse at the back of the instrument panel the wires should be connected to the engine compartment. But I will leave all that to the really fine detail enthusiasts ;)/>/>/>/>/>
I am trying to do some pre shading and/or post shading on the wings. The underside will be painted in LVA blue and here the ribs and main girders might be a little bit darker than the rest. So I found a technique on this site which I tried, but I am not completely happy with it. It may require another coat of blue before it is wat I expect:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26011600x1200_zps458c134d.jpg)
Here you see the ribs already done and the main giders in Tamiya tape for the next run of dark grey.
Here is the intermediate result with LVA blue:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26021600x1200_zpsa780d8fe.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26041600x1200_zpsc0c12c6f.jpg)
Then the engine is waiting to be put together. Here are the first 5 parts sitting in the frame:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26061600x1200_zps232a7bd0.jpg)
In the meantime four girders have been glued in the corners. One is also the support for the altimeter.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26071600x1200_zps43f968f1.jpg)
4 parts are needed for the engine support in the forward frame. I misplaced one part, so I replaced that with 0,7mm wire.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26091600x1200_zpsa807bd2a.jpg)
The engine itself is another piece of art from Wingnut Wings. It consists of a large number of parts and decals:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26111600x1200_zps2883418d.jpg)
The intake part is going to painted black, but the carburetor is remaining in aluminium (there are several pictures of D.III engines and in some the intake is black and in others it is unpainted metal):
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26121600x1200_zpsb625dc5e.jpg)
I am considering some extras as they are not part of the kit, but clearly visible. There are holes in the cylinders, but no spark plugs. Also there is a tube which contains the power lines for the spark plugs. The openings are all there, so I am thinking of a suitable way of connecting the power cable between a spark plug and the tube and at the end of the tube the six wires between the magnetos and this tube. I also found on this site here two suggestions for spark plugs. The pictures at pages 11 and 12 of the manual clearly show these power lines, although they are hanging loose from the tube and also I don't see the spark plugs installed.
I am going to make the spark plugs from brass tubes and I ordered the etched nuts from vectornuts. So that will be slowingme down a little bit. Today I also noticed that on the intake side of the engine you see next to the spark plugs a kind of valve. On a picture with german texts they are called Zischhahn, in translation it should be pet cocks or cylinder cocks as they are called in steam engines. I suppose that they are there for cleaning the engine during maintenance, but I am not sure. It seems that I can make these pet cocks with handrail knobs I have somewhere from DJH locomotive kits and som wire. I will show the result if it is worthwhile.
regards,
Ivo
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You're off to a brilliant start, Ivo. Outstanding work on the cockpit.
Cheers,
Bud
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Thanks Bud! I updated my post after your reply a little bit with the engine.
My updates won't be this big in the future as this is all that I have done with this kit for a week. ;)
regards,
Ivo
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Thanks for sharing your build, can't have enough D.VIIs! the scheme you have chosen is an interesting one and will be a path less followed.
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An excellent start Ivo, the cockpit has turned out brilliant.
Des.
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leuk initiatief! nice initiatie; what's the title of your book ?
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Thanks for your compliments.
I am still thinking of items to add to the cockpit. I have the impression that the controls are connected to the engine using bowden cables. I even see a bowden cable from the stick going underneath the instrument panel. Probably it is the gas cable. There are others for the mixture and ignition timing to the left of the cockpit. They can easily be added.
There is so much useful information on this site, that it is difficult to find it all at once. I'll take my time looking around. There is one issue where I would like some advice on: although I am not absolutely sure I expect that the propellors are all from laminated wood. I remember seeing somebody painting laminated wood propellors somewhere, that really looked amazing. Is that somewhere here on this site or does anybody remember seeing the same? I did see the kit replacements of real wood, but I think I want to use the supplied propellors with the kit. They just require correct painting :)
Ivo
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leuk initiatief! nice initiatie; what's the title of your book ?
Which book? You mean the book in the picture with the wings? That book is called: Fokker D.VII and is written by Nico Geldof. All in dutch language.
See here (http://www.aviationmegastore.com/de-fokker-dvii-in-dienst-van-de-nederlandse-militaire-luchtvaart--906720398136-geromy-98136-nederlandse-luchtvaart/product/?shopid=LM5026cbe9d51486429a3c3c7d1d&action=prodinfo&parent_id=0&art=80404)
Ivo
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Have a look here, it might give you a few ideas on laminated props.
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=200.0
if you want to go with a real wood propeller try here
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=1127.0
Des.
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Des,
Exactly what I meant :) So this is how it's done. Now I have to steady my hand in drawing such perfect curves on the prop. I'll give it a try.
Ivo
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the trick is to carefully mark it from the side. I think you can see from this pic; this is the WNW Niendorf prop (Alb D.V)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-91.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-93.jpg)
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Yes, that seems to be the trick. But still complicated. I'll try to go for quality rather than perfection :) It feels a little like drawing a water line on a ship. There is a simple trick to do that. This can be done following the same principle, but because of the much smaller size of the propellor more difficult. But you have given me enough food for thought.
Some thoughts about the engine detailing and more specific the pipe for the plug leads:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26171600x1200_zps075df78d.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26181600x1200_zps1bb77303.jpg)
The brown horizontal pipe is supplied in the kit. I am going to replace that with 0,8mm brass tube. I am not sure if the brass oil tank has been installed on all aircraft. It seems a bit large and of course it is too shiny.
In these pictures you can also see the locations for the spark plugs a little bit to the left on all cylinders, just above the red line.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26191600x1200_zpsc64d2dca.jpg)
On the other side the spark plugs are located in the middle. A little to the right there are stubs, where the pet cocks are going to be fixed.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26201600x1200_zps9e362bb5.jpg)
On the top in front there is the air pump. In pictures I found 3 copper tubes going from the air pump to the left side of the forward bearing house of the engine. They can easily be made with copper wire.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26211600x1200_zps81bc82c0.jpg)
This is the brass tube for the spark plug leads and I have stripped some electrical wire for the plug leads from the magneto to the spark plugs.
I should be able to fit 6 leads into the tube:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26221600x1200_zpsc78230ce.jpg)
It fits!
regards,
Ivo
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There is an awful amount of information here. In another thread about the Mercedes D.III engine, but then fitted into an Albatros the parts that I have called pet cock (as a translation from the german name Zischhahn according to Wikipedia) is called priming cup. That gives an entire different suggestion of its use, but doesn't reflect the word Zischhahn.
Ivo
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There is an awful amount of information here. In another thread about the Mercedes D.III engine, but then fitted into an Albatros the parts that I have called pet cock (as a translation from the german name Zischhahn according to Wikipedia) is called priming cup. That gives an entire different suggestion of its use, but doesn't reflect the word Zischhahn.
Ivo
Yes, I believe the purpose of these valves was to introduce a bit of raw fuel into the cylinders for starting, thus priming cup I think is more accurate. I have the starting procedure in a book at home, I'll look it up.
If you look around at some of the build logs here and on Des's main site, you will find many outstanding examples of this kit motor built up for the Albatros D series, the Pfalz D.III and D.XII and the Roland D.VIa. Might be worth taking a look. Here are a few of my favorites (sorry if I have excluded anybody, there are so many good ones):
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=702.15
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=918.15
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=276.0
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=398.0
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=40.0
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=360.0
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Indeed they are priming cups, the mechanic filled each one wih a mixture of fuel and oil. The compression realese handle was then pulled to the right, to allow the mechanic to more easily turn over the motor (6 revolutions) in order to prime the cylinders. This was about step 50 of the starting procedure. (Slight exaggeration, but it was involved).
Source is the Smithsonian Alb D.V "Stropp" book...
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Very good start. im watching this one.
Steve
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Thanks Bo for the links. Indeed these are excellent examples of the Mercedes D.III engine to use as reference.
Just a small job today. I wanted to get the plug leads from magneto to the spark plugs.
So first I cut a piece of brass tube to the correct length and fitted 6 copper wires in the tube:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26231600x1200_zps5d6b4a11.jpg)
Then I wanted to have small holes in this tube for the plug leads to run from the tube to the spark plugs. I used my Proxxon milling machine for exact spacing and position of the holes:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26251600x1200_zps3f426824.jpg)
I guess I could have done this by hand, but this is much easier and more exact.
Then the tube was glued to the right hand side and the 6 leads were bent and fitted to the magneto. Also I glued the plug leads in the holes, but as the plugs are still missing, they are not yet of much use ;)
On the other side I first want to drill the holes for the priming cups before fitting this tube with the wires.
This is the result before painting:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26261600x1200_zps799c3f14.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26271600x1200_zps4db3f693.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26281600x1200_zpsd90c4db4.jpg)
Ivo
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Ivo,
Very impressive work my friend. I'm looking forward to following along here and taking notes for my own Fokker someday.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Great job on drilling that brass tube! I attempted the same for a similar build and failed completely in doing it by hand drilling.. :(
Your build is looking great - can't wait to see more
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I tried it by hand and failed miserably, so I think your method is the best. Now if I just had one of those milling machines.
Cheers,
Chris
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Looking good. How did you fish the wire out of that tube and out of those small holes?
Amazing!!
Best
Mark
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Yes Mark, that's a good question. And I could be foolish enough to try that too ;D . I think I could have done that, but probably with a lot of frustration. The tube is just wide enough to accept 6 wires, I couldn't fit in a seventh. Now if you realise that along the drilled holes there will be a small dent into the tube reducing its inside diameter. That would mean that 6 wires will not fit anymore. I guess I could have tried it with three or four wires, but fact is I did it with none:
Then the tube was glued to the right hand side and the 6 leads were bent and fitted to the magneto. Also I glued the plug leads in the holes, but as the plugs are still missing, they are not yet of much use ;)
So before drilling the holes I have glued 6 wires in one side of the tube and after the holes were drilled and the tube glued to the cylinders I just glued a wire in every hole.
Now there is another challenge waiting for me and I do intend to follow that one: I am planning to make the control wires from the control stick and the rudder panels all the way to the rudder and elevator through the fuselage. WNW has provided holes in the fuselage to do this and also in the elevator for the upper control wire. The only thing is, is that these holes are there with an angle of 90 degrees to the crossed surfaces instead of a much smaller angle :o . But for this exercise it will have the same effect: nobody will see the difference whether these lines are connected correctly or are there just for cosmetic purposes. So now you may also understand my question in another topic for a pin vice to accept small drills ;)
Thanks for the compliments for drilling the holes in the tube, but that goes to the milling machine. I know it is quite an investment (I estimate the Proxxon MF20 at about 300 USD), but it is always a good investment to buy proper tools. And at that price it means buying one modelloco less or 3 or 4 less WNW kits in your stash ;)
I must wait for the etched nuts to arrive to proceed with the spark plugs. Can't wait....
regards,
Ivo
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Amazing motor work. Thats fine engineering!!
Steve
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Hello, Ivo -
Just catching up with the forum -
Great progress you are making on your DVII and it is looking very, very good. Your certainly getting this together pretty quick - I've only just started to work on my engine. Test fitting my cockpit structure tonight revealed a poor fit meaning the fuselage halves did not meet together well. I obviously made a mistake (somewhere) on this this. I have had to trim away some of the structure to get a reasonable fit. I'll update everyone in due course once I have moved forward from the engine.
Regards
Dave
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Dave,
Maybe you haven't located the canvas back panel of the cockpit in the correct holes of the tube frames or you haven't put the cockpit floor at the correct location. I found that the fit of it all is pretty tight and you have to get it right and then everything fits beautifully. Although WNW suppllies an excellent manual, you have to really find out for yourselves how and where everthing should fit. For instance the back panel doesn't sit between the vertical tubes of the frame, but just before and the upper and lower connection of the back panel should fit into tiny holes in the tube frame. Once you have found this I am pretty sure that the cockpit frames should fit tightly between the fuselage halves. At least mine does and I don't expect much production tolerances in the sprues of this WNW kit.
regards,
Ivo
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Hello, Ivo -
Just catching up with the forum -
Great progress you are making on your DVII and it is looking very, very good. Your certainly getting this together pretty quick - I've only just started to work on my engine. Test fitting my cockpit structure tonight revealed a poor fit meaning the fuselage halves did not meet together well. I obviously made a mistake (somewhere) on this this. I have had to trim away some of the structure to get a reasonable fit. I'll update everyone in due course once I have moved forward from the engine.
Regards
Dave
Dave, I know what you mean, I think the D.VII is rather an unforgiving beast when it comes to misalignment or construcors error. My interior seemed too wide around the ammocans area, also a slight but with WNW tolerances awful misalignent made it a daymare to get sat right, I put it down to my over eagerness. Another warning for all She is ragile I dropped mine due to thick finger syndrome and it cracked around the seam where the fuselage/rist panel join.
Anyway... Not to distract from Ivo's beautiful build. I just wonder why make the spark plugs when Taurus offer some really nice resin ones? Amongst other fine details for this engine now too.
Keith
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Keith,
I hadn't seen Taurus models and their spark plugs before. I could have used them certainly. But on this site ww1aircraftmodels.com I found quite an acceptabele procedure to build your own sparks plugs, which I decided to follow.
I see that they provide a solution to another problem I discovered on the WNW D.III engine: all valves on all 6 cylinders are in the closed position. That is not realistic. So now I found that Taurus models produces a set with valves, rockers and timing gear that will solve just this problem. I have the impression based on pictures of the real thing, that at least 2 valves should be more or less opened and that is an intake valve on one cylinder and then an exhaust valve on the next.
Now I have to decide if I let this detail slow me down further or that I am satisfied with one incorrect item on my build ;D
regards
Ivo
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Ok, I have decided:
I ordered the timing gear, lifters and valves, spark plugs and intake manifolds. I'll decide which spark plugs I am going to use on this model. My own or Tauruses ;D
regards,
Ivo
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Ok, I have decided:
I ordered the timing gear, lifters and valves, spark plugs and intake manifolds. I'll decide which spark plugs I am going to use on this model. My own or Tauruses ;D
regards,
Ivo
You mean you didn't get the manifold nuts? :o ;D
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Bo,
I think I did. In my post I forgot the word 'nuts' after manifolds. I ordered set 3211, which contains the manifold nuts. I have never seen them though, so I'll study the pictures of the real thing a little better.
A small but tedious job today and I am not completely satisfied. The Spandau guns have been made from 4 parts, 2 styrene and 2 etched brass:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26291600x1200_zps18dc75e6.jpg)
I test fitted them in the supports.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26301600x1200_zps50103720.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26331600x1200_zpse7da620b.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26341600x1200_zps81b2b555.jpg)
They just have to be sprayed with gun metal and then the leather backsides will be added.
I need to do some rigging in the cockpit and then I'm going to secure it all in the fuselage.
regards,
Ivo
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This has been a pleasure to follow so far Ivo. Your detailing is excellent, lovely work!
Looking forward to more progress ;)
Andrew
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Spandaus look nice to me. As for the manifold nuts, you can see them in action on Przemol's D.V build
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=1133.15
And they show up very well in the detail photo by Jamo, 2nd post, third thru remaining photos; they are the notched circular rings between the intake manifold and the cylinder, a somewhat lighter grey compared to the black intake mani and cylinders...
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=237.0
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Thanks for the links. Now I know where to look, you just can't miss them. I am really impressed by a lot of work here, if you take the time to look around. I'll have to master some weathering techniques. At least my engine looks too new to me.
I am still trying to find more information about the fuel line between the tank and the carburators, but I think I have found some already and about the connections between the cockpit controls and the engine compartment. The cockpit is clear I even found that there are 4 bowden type cables running from the control stick to other places. 2 are going down through the floor and they are the gas cables and two are running from the machinegun switches with a nice curve under the instrument panel and up again to the machine guns. The connections from the instruments to the left hand side of the cockpit should reach the carborator and/or the ignition, but how remains still a little bit of a mystery.
Although my cockpit is almost finished I will have a go at the bowdencables and will install for sure the control rods from the cockpit to the engine compartment.
regards,
Ivo
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Some of your questions on details might be answered in one of the Windsock D.VII volumes -- I am traveling so I can't consult them for you. Maybe Keith or someone else can.
This thread on the aerodrome might be useful, assuming you haven't run across it already:
http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/aircraft/25846-fokker-d-vii-information.html
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The first picture shown in the aerodrome thread was in fact the only picture where I started to understand some of the required connections. The thread itself reveals almost every mystery about this and even more. Now I understand where the cables for the throttle go after they disappear under the cockpit floor ;). It is a remote control of the throttle which is sitting on the left. I had mistaken that part for a device changing the motor settings when flying in thinner air. I'll read it again and again until everything fits into place.
I guess I'm almost there 8)
Thanks a lot
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This is the picture referred to in the aerodrome thread:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/Aircraft-3475jpg_Fokker_DVII_fuselage_11_display_zps8d5434f7.jpg)
In thesame series also the next picture can be found:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/Aircraft-3459jpg_Fokker_DVII_engine_18_display_zps634c485d.jpg)
The last reveils a lot more about where these strips, rods and cables are connected to.
I haven't checked the copyright policy of this forum. These pictures aren't mine, but were found with google. For sure I don't have any copyright on these, but as this is not a public forum perhaps it is not an issue. I can replace the pictures with a link if that is better.
The first two strips were connected to the throttle and to the spark advance lever. There needs to be fitted a third for the mixture control. This one is not on the picture of the aerodrome thread as the mixture control wasn't installed on the Fokker there (can be seen from pictures of the cockpit in the same series.
These are my intermediate results. I used some nickel silver strip, chemically blackened with Carr's and glued it with CA to the levers. I have to work further on the connections and constructions in the engine compartment. I will also install the high pressure fuel line and I am going to look for the mixture control connection to the carburators and the magneto control, which is hanging disconnected in the toppictures.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26361600x1200_zpsa5d7d73c.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26371600x1200_zpsfb24a207.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26381600x1200_zps74fbae51.jpg)
Ivo
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Hello Ivo:
Thanks for the explanation on how you wired the spark plugs from the tube. I didn't think it was possible to pull those wires out of the tube, but yours sure looks like you did. You are certainly breaking new ground with this kit and it is interesting to read your posts and watch your craftsmanship. Outstanding work Ivo.
Best
Mark
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Ivo,
Thank you for the detail photos my friend, they'll prove very useful. Excellent update as well. Awesome additional details you're including.Your highest craftsmanship and modeling skills show well.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Great progress reports. Tying all these DVII builds together is very handy!!
Steve
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There hasn't been much progress during the weekend. I spent almost the entire saterday evening searching for my copper wires in several sizes, but I haven't found any of them. I have looked everywhere, but they seem to have vanished. I needed those for some lines in the engine compartment.
So yesterday I just made the first cable from 0,2mm nickel silver between the throttle and the remote control on the stick. I'll have to think of an acceptable way to connect them to the control stick and to eachother with some type of tie wrap. I think I am going to use some copper wire from electrical wire to do that.
I also made the triangular hatch in the fuselage for the later Fokker versions. It is supplied with the kit and on the inside of the fuselage halve WNW gave a good indication of its size and which hole to drill and file. If you follow those lines, the hatch sits perfectly. I just can't figure out what kind of equipment was behind the hatch, because it opens up to a space beneath the gas tank, with almost nothing there.
If I find the time tonight and I finish the throttle cables and the machine gun cables, I'll post some pictures.
regards,
Ivo
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I just can't figure out what kind of equipment was behind the hatch, because it opens up to a space beneath the gas tank, with almost nothing there.
Fuel drain petcock?
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Ah, that must be it: fuel drain petcock. Another item WNW missed ;D
On the aerodrome forum (http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/replica-aircraft/24887-my-fokker-dvii-project-211.html) I found a topic with with 217 pages which might contain an answer too. fuel tank sumps, with valves. I didn't read all 217 pages yet......., but sounds like fuel drain to me
Ivo
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I added some more items in the cockpit, but now I must be finished.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26391600x1200_zps61d8f1a8.jpg)
I wanted to add the remote control of the throttle and the cables for operation of the Spandaus. I have used 0,2mm nickel silver wire and tried to bend it in the correct form. It doesn't work very easily, but the end effect is enough for me. You don't see much of it, especially of the throttle remote control, but you do see the MG cables. They surface again behind the instrument panel and the magazine box just between the machine guns. Now I need to find where they are connected to and I can finalise this.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26401600x1200_zpsd25fb0c9.jpg)
After these lines the moment came to connect the control lines for rudder, elevator and ailerons. You could leave the connection in the cockpit itself for the up control of the elevator and for the ailerons out, because nobody is ever going to see them, but decided to do them too:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26421600x1200_zps8bbd7eb4.jpg)
And then it was just too late or I had done too much. I made the control lines long enough to guide them through the fuselage to the back and through the halves outside, but it is quite fiddly to have these hanging around your cockpit sub-assembly. Especially if you are still working with tiny drops of CA glue on your workbench. Somehow they picked up some CA and became a mess:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26441600x1200_zps1bafb1f2.jpg)
The only thing to do is to either cut them off and fix the wires to the back of the cockpit or make new ones. I made new ones, but decided to fix the upper elevator cables to the back of the cockpit, as they cannot be seen at all and because the stabilo doesn't have a hole running through it. It should be at a very small angle to the surface and that cannot be moulded. I considered drilling, but decided against this.
Only thing left were the rigging cables in the cockpit frame:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26471600x1200_zps435dd840.jpg)
And I needed another strip for the mixture control. I found a picture where this is more or less shown and it ends in the engine compartment below the throttle strip:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26481600x1200_zps9f065841.jpg)
The rigging cables at the front are protected with some canvas. I tried to model that with a small piece of masking tape, but that wasn't a success.
regards,
Ivo
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Ivo,
Excellent additional details to her interior my friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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looks great Ivo!
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Lovely detailing Ivo, the cockpit looks great ;)
Andrew
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In preparation of other parts of my Fokker D.VII I have a question regarding rigging. It is almost non existing on this aircraft, but there is rigging in the landing gear and there is (at least on the LVA version) some rigging for the stabilo. So not only the struts under the stabilo, but also some rigging between the stabilo and the rudder.
Now I do see turnbuckles in the rigging of the landing gear, but it is not clear to me what kind. I see different arangements on several websites and books. Would anybody have advice for me on this, or should I just make some with brass tube?
regards,
Ivo
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I think the standard arrangement is a turnbuckle at the lower end, the top end would appear to loop around the frame and slice in on itself. arrangement of course may vary between manufacturers.
I'll be doing mine with brass tube or maybe Gaspatch turnbuckles.
Keith
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I will probably make the turnbuckles as decribed by Des. There are only two, so that shouldn't be much of a problem.
After all the cockpit work it became time to hide all beautiful details ;) I added the high pressure fuel line from behind the instrument panel to the two floater housings. Now I am a little bit at a loss here, because sometimes I miss the correct technical term in english. You may have seen other examples in this topic. But I don't really know the correct translation of the dutch word vlotter as a part of a carburator into english. Maybe it is a floater, but it may well be a very different word. It is the part were the liqued fuel is held at a certain level to avoid the carburator from 'drowning'.
But anyway it can only be seen now in the engine compartment and will recieve some paint. At this stage I am missing the parts from Taurusmodels, so I can't finish the engine. The controls can be scratchbuild and added to the model in such a way that the engine can still slide from the front into the frame.
But first I wanted to get rid of all the control cables. First I glued the right side of the fuselage to the frame and warned by Epeeman I took precaution to get it right.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26531600x1200_zpsdf8e9c2c.jpg)
I guided the control cables of the right aileron through the side and then I glued behind de back panel and at the front beam the frame into the fuselage. This went without any problem and fitted ok.
Then I had to guide 3 control cables to the back of the fuselage, pulled them through and glued them from the inside. This is absolute nonsense, because nobody is ever going to see these anymore.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26551600x1200_zpsc1513597.jpg)
Then I laid the other fuselage halve, after dry fitting it to the frame turned above and guides all other control cables through their respective holes:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26561600x1200_zps03e0aece.jpg)
Then just add glue to the top first (and to the sides as well) as instructed in the manual and close the fuselage:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26571600x1200_zpsf6c1e136.jpg)
If you now look at the fuselage sides fitted to the frame, you see that mine fitted ok. I did find the 2 locator pins on the back rather small and lost them during dry fitting. The 2 in the bottom are fine and the one in the back too and thus the halves sit snugly together. I will apply some filler and start sanding it down, because I want a perfect backside. It was one wooden piece. I have the impression that WNW gave us only a model of a wooden fuselage. The LVA Fokkers had all steel frame covered with linen fuselages with ofcourse the wooden top. Apart from the completely flat fuselage I also notice this because the WNW paint instructions suggest painting the inside area behind the cockpit in light wood color.
Just dry fitting of other parts:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26581600x1200_zps122ce047.jpg)
After the top had set I fixed the bottom too:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26601600x1200_zps1005676f.jpg)
Next step is giving the fuselage a final coat of paint (LVA blue en LVA khaki) before proceeding. As all other panels are separate pieces I like to finish this before adding other parts. Now it is all easy to mask and you can reach everything.
Perhaps the next step is making the spark plugs as today the Vectorcut nuts arrived from NY. I also ordered parts from Taurusmodels, but they will be still trying to find me by mail.
regards,
Ivo
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Nice update. Shes shaping up well. The two build threads for this machine will be kept in a safe place for future use!!
Steve
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Ivo,
Excellent progress my friend. I believe your control wires look great,Well done.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Today the parts from Taurus Models arrived too:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_2663_21600x1200_zps03c32a73.jpg)
There are the spark plugs,valves lifters and timing gear and the intake manifold nuts. Underneath you see the Vectorcut nuts in the middle, for making sprak plugs with different brass tubes. I expect that the brass version is easier to fit into the cylinders than the resin version as there isn't much left to use for glueing it in the cylinders. It will be more on than in ;) They are beautiful though and very small and they look the part.
regards,
Ivo
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Wow, what a beautiful machine!
I really like all the cockpit rigging you've done. Very fragile looking.
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Hello, Ivo -
You are making great progress - all your added details are really excellent.
Glad to see that you got a perfect fit getting the fuselage together.
Regards
Dave
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Not much progress with the engine yet. I started painting and decalling and applying a satin cote. So not much building progress to show. Just some parts lying around:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26681600x1200_zps2ebf0a8d.jpg)
The LVA blue and orange isn't really a nice color combination, but they were painted this way.
I painted the machineguns too. My can of Humbrol 27004 was way too dark in my opinion, so I mixed it with steel metaliser paint from Modelmaster. Luckily it blended very well and the end effect is excellent. I'll show them mounted in a few days.
regards,
Ivo
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Ivo,
Ah the makings of one beautiful Dutch kite. Keep up the excellent work my friend.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
PS: Great to see a Fokker D.VII in something other German colors.
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Today I discovered two mistakes I made. They can be corrected, but can also easily be avoided. Others may not have made these mistakes, but perhaps these hints might help somebody.
First the Spandau Machine Guns fitted perfectly on the forward and rear mounts. But after proceeding, they didn't anymore. I glued the padding on the back, thus creating a good point for clamping it while airbrushing. This it did, but now I found that the padding should be mounted after the machine guns sit on their mounts. The padding has a small square hole in the middle, which fits over a square knob at the back of the rear mounts, thus securing the Spandaus to their mounts:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26711600x1200_zps292476a1.jpg)
The lower gun has the padding still on, but I removed it from the upper one. You can also see the square hole.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26731600x1200_zpsf5ffe112.jpg)
Here you can see the square pen at the back of the rear mount, next to the rpm indicator.
The other mistake I made is with the engine mounts:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26721600x1200_zps2eb32e60.jpg)
You can see the engine mounts protruding from the frame. There should be a small round knob at both mounts, but apparently I either clipped them of while removing them from the sprue or I just filed them flat as I thought how these parts should look. To the left you see the chin cowling with two holes on the inside. These should fit into the knobs of the motor mount.
Correction is easy, but as I said can be avoided by taking a little bit more care in clipping the parts form the sprue. I'm going to drill a small hole in the engine mounts, glue some metal wire in it and attach a small styrene tube, thus creating a connection for the chin cowl.
regards,
Ivo
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Thanks for the heads up. I suspect I would have done the same as you - wanting to build and paint the guns as complete units before installing.
Steve
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Steve,
My thoughts exactly.
First I should put the cowling in place, then give the fuselage its final satin cote, then I will paint the cockpit rim padding and after all that I am going to install the MG's.
Just some dry fitting for fun:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26741600x1200_zpsd98ca373.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26751600x1200_zps945412d2.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26761600x1200_zpsf4f0aa15.jpg)
Don't pay attention to the engine. It is beheaded, because I am going to install the Taurus parts. I need to cut away the valve springs first before I can proceed. Taurus models provides an ignition order, which I haven't seen yet on photo's of the real thing, but I guess he is correct as he has made such beautiful details.
regards,
Ivo
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The spark plugs are not to difficult to put on the engine .just take your time ! hen cutting off the valve springs notice the angle .I drilled holes on my engine and cut the resin part near the base .That way you have some resin plug the glue to the engine .Also take plenty of time with this part so that the timing gear fit in the right place. HTH
Willi
Looks great so far .
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Very nice work. Its really shaping up and a great "different" scheme.
Steve
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Fine modelling all around. You will surely enjoy the parts from Taurus - they add a lot to Mercedes engines.
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There hasn't been much progress during the weekend. I spent almost the entire saterday evening searching for my copper wires in several sizes, but I haven't found any of them. I have looked everywhere, but they seem to have vanished. I needed those for some lines in the engine compartment.
Today I found them in an instant. It came to me that I had taken my copper wires with me on holiday for building in the box of a kit (which I didn't touch during holiday by the way). Located the kit, opened the box and there they were ;D
Ivo
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There hasn't been much progress during the weekend. I spent almost the entire saterday evening searching for my copper wires in several sizes, but I haven't found any of them. I have looked everywhere, but they seem to have vanished. I needed those for some lines in the engine compartment.
Today I found them in an instant. It came to me that I had taken my copper wires with me on holiday for building in the box of a kit (which I didn't touch during holiday by the way). Located the kit, opened the box and there they were ;D
Ivo
Don't feel badly, Ivo, I spent half of yesterday searching for the Instructions booklet for my F2b, finally recalled that I'd been searching through my WNW "Leftovers" box for a scratch build bit and I found the book there. In my case this sort of chaos is brought on by a severe attack of "Oldtimers Desease"! Nice progress on the Fokker, it's going to be a unique and beautiful model when finished.
Cheers,
Lance ;)
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LOL Ivo and Lance,glad to know I'm not the only who's been known to hide his own Easter Egg on occasion.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Lance I suffer OD all the time, along with BOBS (Blind Old B***er Syndrome) How many times have I come home with a p/e, resin, book, kit - you name it - and there it is already on the shelf. I used to forget birthdays and anniversaries and get "Oh sure you'd remember one of your model airplane things though wouldnt you?" I now consider myself fair minded........
Steve
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Worst moments are when I can't find a specific item on my workbench. Mostly my glasses. Then finally I ask my wife to help me out and it is just in front of me. Thanks for sharing your experiences. Makes one feel a little bit less stupid ;)
Progress on the D.VII is slow. The cables from the stick to the MG's got disconnected while the entire cockpit was already inside the fuselage and it was a nice fiddly job to get them connected again. They are now and I don't expect them to move again. I started yesterday with the Taurus parts and already lost one rocker. And there are only two spares on the casting block. What also puzzles me is how to attach the rockers to the camshaft assembly. There are 0,4mm resin pins supplied, that can run through the rockers after drilling the holes (which I already did), but there are just small dents in the camshaft boxes. I understand that there cannot be any holes there, as it would be impossible to cast in resin, but you can't drill a hole in there either, because you just can't drill a hole at a right angle. So I drilled them from the side. I'll see what kind of effect it will give. Probably I'll use the last holes just as a locating help without pushing the 0,4mm resin pins in very far.
I'll show you my results when I'm done.
Ivo
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Ivo,
I havent got my hands on one of these new Taurus Assemblies yet, what you say sounds odd if I may say. From what I saw on the release pictures I assumed those lengths of 0.4 resin rod were forto show the rocker box mounting to cylinder bolts not the pins through the assemblies themselves. I think the rocker arms fix like the rest of Tauruses releases (I do have the DIII set) just to the front face of the box itself. On the real Engines I believe these to be pins rather like a gudgeon pin in an engine, a hollow tube.
Anyway I hope this helps your train of thought as they say ;)
I look forwards to the next installment from your hangar of excellence.
Keith
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Keith,
Sometime I just have to read the instructions better. The pins are not for fixing the rockers to the rocker boxes. They should be attached as you said. There are little knobs on the rocker box and because you drill a small hole through the rockers, they will fit on those small knobs. The pins have an entirely different purpose. They support the rocker boxes on the cam shaft onto the cylinder heads.
I did a lot of drilling tonight: first I clipped of the WNW valve springs, then I drilled 0,8mm holes for the Taurus valve springs, I drilled 1,9mm holes, for the intake manifold nuts and holes for the priming valves. I mounted the new valves springs and the intake manifold nuts, but perhaps it would have been wiser first to install the rocker boxes with the cam shaft before putting the new valves springs in. It just fits, but I am afraid the rockers won't fit the way I want it. Somehow putting the valve springs in the middle results in a not perfect fit. I'll show some pictures tomorrow and perhaps I then have already solved these items.
regards,
Ivo
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Make sure the valve springs are at a slight angle or the rocker arms wont fit right .
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Yes, I realised that, so I have put them at a slight angle, but slight should perhaps be enlarged a little bit more ;)
Ivo
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Found the following items on the sprue, without a clue what to do with them:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26921600x1200_zps02ec7ffa.jpg)
Should I hide this one somewhere in the cockpit, or is it a personal weapon for the pilot if he had to land behind enemy lines?
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26931600x1200_zps61f50223.jpg)
These are also a puzzle for me. I have seen them before and I thought I saw Epeeman's Fokker having these outside the portside of the cockpit.
Now on with the D.VII
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26971600x1200_zpsda646beb.jpg)
The tail fitted together, but not in their final position. Just for fun and finally wanting to see something of the finished plane.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26981600x1200_zps757f182d.jpg)
The landing gear fitted together. The two parts for the axle housing have been glued together, but the rest is still not attached. It just fits perfectly and then you can almost dry fit the entire model together.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_26991600x1200_zps7afd68c8.jpg)
One last view before closing her behind too.
And then on with the engine:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27001600x1200_zps3d146dcb.jpg)
I made some stubs on the front end as explained earlier (if you are no as brutal as I am with the kit parts this is unnecessary ;) ) of the motor supports and could fit the chin cowling and the radiator in front.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27021600x1200_zps1a37f4da.jpg)
The Taurus Models Rocker boxes and Camshaft between the valve springs
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27041600x1200_zps586038ea.jpg)
And then I clipped the WNW valves from the D.IIIa engine and started drilling the holes for the Taurus models valves. I clamped the motor in the milling machine, for good alignment of the valves.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27051600x1200_zps3569327e.jpg)
One row is done
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27071600x1200_zpsaf52ed84.jpg)
The cylinder intakes are drilled stepwise up to 1,85mm for accepting the Taurus models Intake Manifold Nuts
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27081600x1200_zpsd3b9f057.jpg)
Now just file them down a little bit in order to get a goot fit between the engine, the manifold nuts and the intake assembly coming from the carburator.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27091600x1200_zps81253871.jpg)
Manifold nuts in place
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27111600x1200_zpsfd42c956.jpg)
And here you see the valves in place and the intake assembly is completed too. I have to decide on which color I am going to give all these parts. I am thinking of mixing Humbrol 27004 with27003 or even 27001. I found the results on the MG's not bad, so perhaps I am trying to reproduce that mix.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27121600x1200_zps70a7a0a8.jpg)
Here the rocker boxes lie between the valves. Now I think there is not enough room between them for the rocker arms, but i am going to try. If not, the valves are coming out again. I must be careful, because I don't have any spares left. New ones can be ordered of course, but that would slow me down further..
regards,
Ivo
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Nice work on the motor. The Taurus parts look great. The mystery parts are a flare pistol and flares in rack by the looks of them. Im not sure if your machine carried them.
Steve
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Nice work on the motor. The Taurus parts look great. The mystery parts are a flare pistol and flares in rack by the looks of them. Im not sure if your machine carried them.
Steve
Yup, and a rear view mirror and an anemometer. They are part of the generic German equipment found on the Merc. D.III sprue. Also there is usually a teddy bear hidden in there somewhere...
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Ivo,
Regarding the parts you are not sure about -
Parts 44/45 (WNW give you a choice on what type of flare rack you want) are flare cartridge racks which can be installed outside on the fuselage. The weapon you refer to is also the associated flare pistol. I've seen some photos where the flare pistol was mounted outside on fuselage but I guess they also carried one inside the cockpit somewhere.
Basically, the engine sprue is pretty standard for WNW kits where the Mercedes engine is installed. Therefore, some of the other parts are used (for example) on the Albatros DV. I can see the optional engine generator thingy, rear view mirrors, etc. Basically, lots of left over parts for your spares box!
On the version I'm building, there is a photo of the original aircraft where WNW highlight what is likely a flare cartridge rack (and the kit part number to use) installed - I therefore added this to my model.
Your DVII is looking superb by the way.
Regards
Dave
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Hello Ivo:
Part 35 is the prop boss to attach the prop to the shaft on the engine. Your engine is looking outstanding with the extra work you have put into it, it is paying off for you. The scheme is intersting as it is so different from the usual.
Looking forward to seeing you wrap this up.
Best
Mark
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Ivo,
Magnificent additional details for her Mercedes my friend. Your going the extra mile with the aftermarket detail items certianly paid off outstandingly. Looking forward to the next awesome update.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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PS: Great to see a Fokker D.VII in something other German colors.
Just a remark I forgot to make earlier: you know that there were also Fokker D.VII's in the US army and I found a picture of a D.VII with a canadian maple leaf. So there must be more than D.VII's from Germany.
Ivo
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Your Fokker is looking great!. I did my timing gear in nato black with mix of gun metal ,screws and springs in steel then a wash of black .
I`m thinking of doing a Polish Fokker in the near future.
Willi
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I haven't found any flares or flare guns on pictures of an LVA D.VII. So I'm not going to use these parts this time.
I have made some progress with the engine, but almost all parts still should get painted.
I started with the priming valves. As explained earlier I planned to use brass handrail knobs used in model railway models from DJH, but next to the spark plugs from Taurus Models they were just too big. So I went for smaller knobs made by Phildie. A small supplier of parts for building H0 model railroad locomotives:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27141600x1200_zps2771def3.jpg)
Here you see the brass castings of the handrail knobs next to the Taurus Models Spark Plugs.
So first I drilled larger holes for the priming valves, fitted the handrail knobs inside and cut a small piece of 0,4mm brass wire and bended it. Then I glued it in the handrail knob and it looks like a priming valve. If it would haven been a little bigger I might have drilled a small hole on top of the handrail knob, but as this was just to small I didn't do it.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27151600x1200_zpsb1a7bade.jpg)
I may paint the handles gloss black (that's what they are on pictures of the engine in the WNW manual), but perhaps I'll leave them bare metal. They will weather by themselves anyhow.
Next step were the fitting of the spark plugs on the intake side of the engine:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27161600x1200_zps68fc846a.jpg)
Picture doesn't really show them. I would have preferred that Taurus Models would put those spark plugs on a little piece of resin with a smaller diameter than the spark plug itself, because it would make fitting easier, by fitting them into a hole in the cylinders.
Same picture, another angle.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27171600x1200_zps5acf645b.jpg)
Next step is to make the spark plug leads:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27261600x1200_zps0097f771.jpg)
I explained these earlier. The finishing touch is just to bend the copper wires from below the tube with a nice curve upwards and turn them around the end of the spark plug. At the other end you just bend 6 wires towards the contacts of the magneto.
Next step I took was placing the rockers:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27221600x1200_zps1f3f4dd1.jpg)
For best fit the valve springs should have been placed at a bigger angle to the cylinder. It doesn't feel right though, but it would mean a better fit. I decided that I wanted the rockers to sit in the correct location on the rocker boxes and accept that the rockers are a little bit too far to the left and right, but the total picture of the rocker boxes, camshaft and rockers would be correct. There are 4 opened valves and 8 closed, you can see it, but I have the impression that you need to know where they are. Perhaps after painting and especially some dry brusing of the valve springs will make this easier to see.
A view of the other side of the engine. Here the spark plugs are still missing, so I need to do some work here.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27231600x1200_zpsc56b842d.jpg)
Top view of the rocker boxes and rockers:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27241600x1200_zpsa370d1b1.jpg)
And just a nice picture.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27251600x1200_zpsbb1d6aed.jpg)
Next step is the exhaust side and painting the entire thing. The lower part of the engine is too shiny and needs some weathering. I have seen excellent examples, so I am going to try to reproduce that as well.
regards,
Ivo
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Ivo,
Now that's one magnificent Mercedes my friend. The additional details you've included on the Mercedes are outstanding. Thank you for one heck of a great and informative thread.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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I would have preferred that Taurus Models would put those spark plugs on a little piece of resin with a smaller diameter than the spark plug itself, because it would make fitting easier, by fitting them into a hole in the cylinders.
What do you propose for fitting Taurus' spark plugs? Enlarging the holes that are already present? Or do they fit as they are?
Stefan
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Gregory,
Thanks, but its not ready yet. On my rather unforgiving last picture you see a vertical seam in front. I must do something about that. Also between the carburator and the intake manifold there are thesame nuts as between the intake manifold and the cylinders. I didn't realise those yet. The carburator controls are also still missing. But I am nearing the final assembly ;)
@ Stephan,
As I wasn't able to have a stub left at the spark plugs when cutting them of the resin casting, I just glued them directly at the indicated locations of the cylinders. I would have preferred if there would have been a piece of resin left with a smaller diameter than the spark plug itself and then fitting would be easier and more exact, because then you could enlarge or drill a hole in the cylinder to match that piece. That is why I also think that the spark plugs made from brass tubes and brass wire as presented by Des at this website will be easier to install.
The Taurus Models are on the other hand a good representation and it works faster than making your own out of 4 different parts.
regards,
Ivo
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Awesome engine detailing and painting Ivo! It's a superb looking Mercedes.
Cheers,
Chris
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Ivo -
Super, super detailing work - your DVII is going to looks the business when complete.
Regards
Dave
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Some additional work on the engine tonight. The exhaust side got the spark plugs too and they are connected now to the sprak plug leads. Further a lot of painting. rust for the spark plug leads tube and exhaust, beige for the spark plug leads, black for the spark plug connections and priming valve handles and a mixture of metalisers for the intake manifold nuts and the rocker boxes assembly. The nice thing about the pictures is that I see now there are actual nuts on the rocker boxes that you really don't recognise when working on the model, because it is a lot smaller than in the pictures. I am not really satisfied with the finish of the rocker boxes. Perhaps I am going to highlight some details with a dry brush run or I could paint the nuts a lighter shade. Also the exhaust is definitely going to recieve another treatment, because this intended rust color is absolutely worthless.
But some pictures:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27271600x1200_zps2bf81716.jpg)
Just a paint job
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27281600x1200_zpsa9d4310a.jpg)
Now you do see opened and closed valves
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27291600x1200_zpse8b05034.jpg)
Intake manifold nuts and priming valves come out nicely in this picture
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27301600x1200_zpsb84885f6.jpg)
Exhaust side
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27321600x1200_zps635b44d9.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27331600x1200_zpsbfc62b17.jpg)
View from the top
Regards,
Ivo
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Excellent work on the engine, Ivo. Those Taurus bits really enhance the engine beautifully.
Cheers,
Bud
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Yes, really beautiful work. A lot to copy from for my Fokker project...
Stefan
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Did some work on the engine over the weekend. I have now painted the exhaust with Modelmasters burnt iron metaliser paint, which improved it enormous and I also overpainted the valve, rocker arms and rocker boxes assembly with H 27003, which improved that too. It is however difficult to buff this assembly, but still it looks improved to me. I also started with the copper tubes running from the air pump. I was pleased with it until I noticed that the radiator now didn't fit anymore. This just requires some extra bending, but it is impeding progress. And I could add some more detail to the engine as two additional (water) lines between the water pump and the carburator and intake manifold. It is almost ready to recieve its final location in the engine room.
regards,
Ivo
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Excellent detailing and painting of your engine Ivo, you did a brilliant job creating the primer taps, they look very realistic. The Taurus parts have added a great deal to the engine and brings it to life, I look forward to seeing the engine completely finished with all the final paint touches.
Des.
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Thanks for the compliments,
After spending hours ( 8) ) on the floor to beat the carpet monster I now see in my 4th and 5th picture that I should have beaten the frame monster in stead.
As these pictures are bigger than life, I wondered what I did and I now see that I have falsely accused the carpet monster ;D
I wonder if you see it too...
regards,
Ivo
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Some progress: added pipes from the airpump, line from the intake manifold down to the waterpump, fuel line, lever for the carburator control.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27791600x1200_zpse57bdfd0.jpg)
Got to do something with the light in these pictures and/or make the aluminium parts dirtier.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27811600x1200_zpsaf868249.jpg)
Top view
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27821600x1200_zps23a1cc58.jpg)
Exhaust looks a lot better. Highlighted the nuts on the rocker arms a little bit.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27851600x1200_zps8bfc2243.jpg)
It's almost ready to put everything together, just some weathering of the wings.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27861600x1200_zpsdbae3eb9.jpg)
regards,
Ivo
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Just keeps getting better and better, Ivo!
Cheers,
Bud
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Tried some weathering on the bottom of the engine with weathering powders, but it wasn't a success. Brushed off easily so there is no harm done.
I also ran into a fit problem with the fin. First I have installed the horizontal stabiliser and the the elevator. Then you can place the fin over it as the bottom hinge on the fin falls over the connection rod between the left and right elevator. It fits ok, but it is just a little bit too far aft and then the rudder won't fit correctly to the bottom hinge at the bottom of the fuselage as the back of the fin and the back of the fuselage are not perfectly in line.
Perhaps this problem is a result from the fact that I have painted everything already, although I can't see where this problem would surface. I'll let you know the outcome.
Nice about the kit is that the fin is not in line with the fuselage but slightly located to the left in the front to compensate for motor torque. I even have the impression that in the real thing you could even adjust this point as a kind of fixed trim.
regards,
Ivo
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Pictures are better than words:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27881600x1200_zps48188cc1.jpg)
Here you see the bottom of the rudder missing the hinge and the gap between rudder and fuselage is larger than the gap between the rudder and the fin.
A little pushing makes it better:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27901600x1200_zpsabd3b231.jpg)
Now I wonder whether there should be a gap under the fin. I wasn't expecting that, but for trimming purposes perhaps it is correct.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27911600x1200_zpse61e5fc7.jpg)
Torque compensation. Very nice detail.
regards,
Ivo
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Hello Ivo:
Not to rain on your parade, but it appears as if you but the tail section on upside down which may account for some of your fit problems. :(
Cheers
Mark
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I don't think so. You may get the impression because you see from the last picture at the top that the horizontal stabiliser seems hollow. It is by the way, but it is impossible to put it on wrong, because on the bottom side it has rims with which it fits into the fuselage, the torque compensation would be wrong too and the openings for the upper control of the elevator would be awkward.
So unless you mean something else, I don't see what is upside down.
regards,
Ivo
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Hello Ivo: No, that is what I meant. It has what appears to be a recess, but you are right, WNW has the tab to locate into the fuselage.
Best
Mark
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She's looking good, Ivo. I have no idea about the tail (I'm still learning about these canvas aeroplanes ;D ), but a gap between the fin and fuselage seems to be fairly common for a number of types of aircraft.
I like the finish, too, it's nice to see a Netherlands finish for a change.
Cheers.
Dal.
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I put the fin on today and there is just a small gap left. The rudder fits fine and sits nicely in the bottom hinge. The control lines are attached too, so apart from the rigging of the stabilisor and the tail skid the tail is ready.
Now after seeing good progress from Willi I added almost the last detail on the engine:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28001600x1200_zpsd097afd7.jpg)
The throttle is now completely attached although no further details are installed on top of the carburator. Also the spark advance lever is attached to the left magneto. The right magneto is attached in the same fashion as the rod that moves the lever to the magneto runs behind the engine to the other side thus shifitng the magnetos equally. You don't see much of it, but I know it's there. Perhaps more can be seen on this photo:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28021600x1200_zpsfb00ff1b.jpg)
I think I am going to leave the mixture control unattached. I didn't find any information on this.
Then I tried the front covers looking for the fit problems that some have encounterd in this part of the model. It may not be thesame for everyone as WNW supplies several possibilities in covering up the front with different top covers (I used the ones that are marked in the manual not te be used for the versions in the kit, but those are correct for the LVA version). I also used the radiator for version D, which is thicker and had in the middle a wider flat area in front than the other.
First I tried the chin cowling, the radiator, the bottom with the hatch for oil replacement and the top covers. This went on without any fit problems:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27921600x1200_zpse85f3e7d.jpg)
Moreover I found especially that the radiator and the top covers fitted perfectly (of course without the engine, which is going to cause problems in front)
Then a picture of the fit between the chin cowl and the cover with hatch:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27931600x1200_zps47580dd5.jpg)
This shows a small gap and the panels are not in line (the chin cowl is lower than the other at the joint), but you can push the chin cowl a little further on the front frames and then the fit is good.
Next step is to fit the triangular panel:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27941600x1200_zps3333d988.jpg)
This panel absolutely seems to belong here, because it fits perfectly in the frame.
Last panel is the forward panel with the curved front which falls over the top cover and over the sides of the chin cowl. Because it is all dry fitting I couldn't make a picture as I needed an extra pair of hands and my wife was out, but it fitted ok.
Then I did discover 2 problems. If you look from the top down to the chin cowl with the bottom frame tubes in between I noticed that the chin cowl is pushing the frame inward because of the imitation connections for the screws to fit the covers:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27951600x1200_zpsc8286dea.jpg)
Here you can see the frame pushed inward
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27961600x1200_zps1d45dc24.jpg)
This is how the frames should look like.
A little bit of filing of the inside edge of the chin cowl will solve this problem.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27981600x1200_zpsf1a6509b.jpg)
Here you can see that the chin cowl follows the curve of the bottom frame tube perfectly.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_27991600x1200_zpsdad8e572.jpg)
Here I do find a problem: the radiator that I am going to use doesn't have enough room for the airpump. You can that the unpainted water hose connected to the radiator that should fit into the housing of the front of the engine isn't going to get there. I will have to remove some plastic at the top left inside of the radiator to make this airpump fit. Perhaps I have used the wrong part for the inside of the radiator, I am going to check that first, but I remembered that only one part will fit in this radiator.
regards,
Ivo
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You did lots of progress, Lots of good info . looks like the radiator is much thicker then the one I`m using .
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Ivo,
Each time I look at that Mercedes the more impressed I am with your detailing my friend. Truly awesome works!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Ivo,
Each time I look at that Mercedes the more impressed I am with your detailing my friend. Truly awesome works!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
My thoughts, exactly!
Cheers,
Bud
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Hello, Ivo -
Glad to see you are making great progress and that, generally, your cowling panels fit well. For note, I also had the same problem with the radiator too close to the air pump. Air pump is now slightly pushed off to one side but you would have to look very closely to really notice.
Regards
Dave
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Ivo. your airpump/rad issue. I think the rad has a recess in it. Its skinned over the top but if you have the Windsock D.VII Anthology 1 take a look on page 13 pic 4 & 5. Not the clearest shots I warrant but show enough to make you work out the setup?
Added page 14 theres a sketch shows how its recessed Likely this refers to all rads to some extent
simply cut grind a section out the uper rad, move the cooling hose connection forwards, it looks like the other stub (for preheating or testing maybe) now comes off the cooling pipe that connects to the cylinders
Hope this helps your inpiring build
Keith
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I was considering exactly that, that the radiator should have a recess. I will first install the motor on its base to keep it from moving upward. I just don't have hands enough ;), because I want to have an exact indication of the recess spot.
But indeed if nothing else workes I am going to mill a small section out to get the fit right. There may also be another solution. The radiator that I am using is the thicker and wider one in front. WNW supplies a separate part with the cooling water hose connected on top. But there are several of those and at least one of them is only half the thickness mine has. Perhaps that might work too.
Unfortunately Idon't have the Windsock Anthology you mention. Perhaps a scan of the mentioned picture in a personal message. I promise I won't publish it anywhere.
Further I had a productive day today. One of my railway modelling friends made some custom decals for me. I had to have dutch versions of the black decals at the wing tips on which it says at the WNW decals in german Nur hier anheben. So I now have those in dutch with the correct text Hier optillen. He made 16 decals for me so that I can make the D.VIIF with BMW later on too with full lozenge outfit (apart from the black motor cowlings) and the orange insignia.
Another railway modeller helped me in preparing grass on a wooden stand for this Fokker, using an upgraded grasmaster (from 15kV to 50kV) to simulate a green field with colored fibres. Looks nice, nut I am going to add some sand and dirt.
regards,
Ivo
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Finally I fitted the engine in the forward compartment.
I couldn't resist dry fitting the bottom wing, the landing gear and the top wing, to get an impression of the end result.
Still a lot work to be done, but is nice to see that with just a dry fit everything seems to be (almost) parallel and square as it should be. It is a great kit with great engineering to achieve this.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28061600x1200_zps8bfe8bf1.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28071600x1200_zps61be8335.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28081600x1200_zps8b04fafc.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28091600x1200_zps7ef20315.jpg)
regards,
Ivo
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That looks great Ivo! I like the Dutch scheme very much. :D You really can tell what she'll look like from the dry fit. Superb work and a very interesting model. Outstanding!
Regards,
Bob
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Today I fitted the radiator and the chin cowling. I took out the inside kit part of the radiator and replaced it with the kit part for the thinner and less wide radiator:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28171600x1200_zpsc6d4385d.jpg)
It does need some work around the radiator hose on top. The part itself (left bottom) won't fit in the radiator (right top), but you just file enough room above and beneath the hose, making it longer along the way. When it fits it gives enough room for the brass pipes from the air pump.
And then I removed some material on the top of the radiator, just as you suggested, Keith.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28101600x1200_zps3fb4650f.jpg)
Top view showing the triangular part I removed to give the left side of the air pump enough room.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28131600x1200_zps3fcfb6f4.jpg)
Side view
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28141600x1200_zps2e6d5895.jpg)
View from the inside to see the room created for the copper tubes inside
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28151600x1200_zps9e6f4973.jpg)
And the other side
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28161600x1200_zpsee1cdf95.jpg)
Front view. The radiator hose still needs to recieve a matt black color
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28181600x1200_zps46fcd8b4.jpg)
Bottom view, just before closing her up here too.
regards,
Ivo
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Ivo,
As always my friend very very impressive work. Keep up your awesome progress.
Highest Regards,
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Very nice work around Ivo, and excellent work so far. This is going to be a unique and beautiful model.
Cheers,
Lance
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The more I see these great DVII builds, the more tempted I am to buy kit. Very nice work Ivo.
John
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very nice . great work on the engine .
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Hello Ivo:
It looks as if you managed to overcome the obstacle and proceed. Your "field expedient" repair and refabrication did what it was supposed to do and now.......on with the show.
Your engine work is fantastic and will certainly be the focal point of the completed model.
Best
Mark
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Ivo,
Your work is just getting better and better - not long to go before being completed, I should think!
Regards
Dave
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Thanks for all compliments. Main compliments should go to WNW for producing an excellent kit. I am just assembling it and making small improvements.
But there has been some more field expedient work going on. The radiator still wasn't connected securely and is in flight pushing on the engine. I discovered that WNW forgot another two tubes in the frame which shows in almost all photographs. So I took another piece of 0,8mm brass tube, cut it at the correct length and clamped the end in pliers:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28211600x1200_zpsfea6b03a.jpg)
The new part of the forward frame runs from the strut connecting the forward engine mount to the upper frame to the sides of the radiator.
Of course this is done on both sides and they have now got a coat of grey green (after the picture had been taken)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28231600x1200_zps6055fb48.jpg)
Then indeed Dave it becomes time to finish the aircraft. But first I want to apply some weathering especially to the upper wings. Now this is new to me and Bud sent me some excellent instructions. So after buying some dark pastels and plundering my wife's make up gear I started with the bottom wing:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28241600x1200_zpsfa1eef10.jpg)
1mm Jammydog paper tape over the ribs. Here I found them too wide, but this proved ok afterwards.
Then I made a mix of black and brown pastel dust. The brown was too light to apply only brown. I wanted a little bit of shading from the greenish Khaki color I sprayed on into a more brownish shade of khaki. Well at first my impression was that it didn't make much difference, but after removing the tape I was satisfied at first, but perhaps it is a little bit too much. I know that after spraying another clear cote the effect will become less, so perhaps it is ok.
An impression:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28251600x1200_zps5bb0e3ed.jpg)
Right bottom wing done, left still to go. The picture gives a darker impression than the real thing
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28281600x1200_zps382dc8b5.jpg)
Attached to the fuselage it doesn't look too bad. But now I must probably do something to the fuselage as well. The fuselage however is almost straight, so there isn't much to use as guidance.
I did the upper wing too:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28291600x1200_zps1ad44e36.jpg)
I used a middle grey pastel for the orange. First I was a little bit disappointed in the orange as I found the effect too strong, but I am getting used to it. This photo is mild on my attempts.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28301600x1200_zpsb5731962.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28311600x1200_zps7a84648b.jpg)
If I am satisfied and those wings have their final clear cote then I can assemble the entire aircraft pretty fast. There will then only be two last hurdles. The first is the rigging between the landing gear and the tailplanes and the painting of the laminated propellor.
Please feel free to be hard on me on the weathering if you like. It is now still possible to correct I guess, as nothing is painted.
regards,
Ivo
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My last question has proved to be a difficult one. Nobody seems to feel free to comment and if you take into account that the usual comments are enthousiastic and positive it is perhaps too hard to express an opinion on my weathering ;)
Looking at my question you may conclude that I am not totally thrilled with the result, although it requires some getting used to. Today in daylight it looks much better, but still.
I am going to try at least the following: try to flatten out the result with paper kitchen towels to smoothen the colors and contrast between the ribs. I want to do something with the orange circles as well. Drops of dried Micro set have trapped the pastel dust more than other parts. So here I will try to correct that too.
I'll keep you updated.
Ivo
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My only comment is to make sure the "cuffs match the collar" ;)
Meaning, the fuselage is evenly finished whereas you are adding what amounts to lighting effects on the wings. But maybe you haven't gotten that far.
Beyond that, it's hard to judge from photos, depending on lighting etc the effect may be exaggerated or suppressed. You are going to have to trust your eye I think...
-
Hello Ivo:
I agree with Bo: I think your shading on the wings and insignia is fine, maybe focus a little weathering on the fuselage. Something as simple as mist coats of tan just to tone it down it a bit. I am not a big weathering guy so not sure what else to advise. I am sure others on the forum can provide a clearer method.
Best wishes and good luck
Mark
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Thanks Bo and Mark,
Sure I have to do something with the fuselage. I don't know where to start though. On the wings it is relatively easy as the ribs give you some direction. But the fuselage behind the engine is almost flat, so there is not much to go on.
And light changes everything. My normal lamps, halogen lamps and daylight give an enormous changing effect.
regards,
Ivo
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Hi, Ivo the work you have done on the wings looks fantastic to me.
i like models to have a used and lived in appearence, and thats just what your achieving. it all boils down to personal taste.
and i like your taste. :)
michael
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Thanks Bo and Mark,
Sure I have to do something with the fuselage. I don't know where to start though. On the wings it is relatively easy as the ribs give you some direction. But the fuselage behind the engine is almost flat, so there is not much to go on.
And light changes everything. My normal lamps, halogen lamps and daylight give an enormous changing effect.
regards,
Ivo
Use the principles of zenithal lighting. Pick an imaginary light source. Surfaces that are perpendicular and facing get the lightest highlights. Surfaces that are perpendicular and facing away, the darkest. Parallel surfaces are intermediate. And so on. Easy does it.
-
I tried to put the light in front and let it shine along the fuselage. But there isn't much to go on. Just the top and bottom sides of the louvers might be the beginning of some weathered striping to the back. Further you see some gradual vertical bends along the fuselage where the vertical beams of the inside frame are. You see one just behind the cockpit, at the second half of the orange circle and under the tail. Perhaps just some weathering around the top and bottom corners will do the trick. I'll try to find some inspiration at other builds shown on this forum.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28341600x1200_zpsc3ed1a49.jpg)
Beautiful detail of the forward covers by the way. It will keep the engine out of sight ;)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28351600x1200_zps48ef5d2e.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28361600x1200_zps8571a17d.jpg)
Forgot to put the custom made Hier optillen decals on the wing tips before weathering. But they still went on ok. Just add some more Micro Set and they will be just fine. Now I wonder if I got the dutch text right, because at the LVA Sopwith Pup it says Hier oplichten.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28371600x1200_zps373112e5.jpg)
regards,
Ivo
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Hello Ivo:
It is coming along nicely. I was thinking, maybe just dry brush some "CDL" along the sharp edges of the fuselage, just to give it a big of a worn look. Maybe dry brush some silver on the louvre area. As to the Hier Optillen or Optlichten, who would notice?
This will certainly be a strking model when completed with the big orange cockades.
Best
Mark
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As to the Hier Optillen or Optlichten, who would notice?
I do. And that's what detailling does to you. You will be the only one that will know, but you notice it every time ;). But I can let this one slip.
By the way "CDL", what does it mean?
regards,
Ivo
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"clear dope linen" I'm guessing.
-
That makes sense.
Now I have to look for pictures for some proof.
Ivo
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CDL??? I'd be pretty sure under that Dutch camo thered be loz fabric lurking. So don't over work it. ;) Nice work on the flying surfaces Ivo.
K
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I gave the fuselage some general weathering to match it more with the wings and let the cuff match with the collar. It is now drying under clear cote, so no pictures yet.
I couldn't resist building at the side of the WNW D.VII another D.VII in a different LVA scheme. The scheme with the oramge cockades was used in the LVA D.VII from 1919-1920, so it is a real postwar scheme and perhaps it doesn't belong here on this ww1 forum. The next scheme was with almost the cockades still in use in the Netherlands, although the orientation of the cockades is different on the wings. This scheme was used between 1920 and 1936 when the last D.VII went out of service. In the beginning the numbers were round like shown here and later on the lost this roundness and were painted more with square lettering. Also there were variations with propellors and engine cowlings, which were painted and sometimes were bare metal.
This kit had been waiting a long time in my stash and there must be better ones, but it is for my collection and still some work te be done (painting of cockpit edge and landing strut, rigging between landing gear and between fin and stabiliser):
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28381600x1200_zpsba6a405a.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28401600x1200_zps05c05c94.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28391600x1200_zps6e438796.jpg)
regards,
Ivo
-
Small update:
fitted the bottom wing including cover, fitted the undercarriage and added the rigging following to Des' method (its a first, but it's ok. It just needs some paint) with only turnbuckles below and mounted the Spandau MG's with the empty belt shutes.
The undercarriage may have to come off again as the glue doesn't seem to set. The undercarriage doesn't fall off and stays into place, but is very wobbly and let's the left wing drop a little. It can dry overnight after putting it with some supports in the correct position.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28411600x1200_zpsbe93cfa9.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28421600x1200_zps68a47811.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28431600x1200_zps59969b6b.jpg)
regards,
Ivo
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Put the landing gear straight today, but it is still not very steady on its feet.
Then I wanted to fit the upper wing. I first added the cabane struts and wing struts to the model and tried to align everything as much as possible. I used the parts B8 and B12 as the main guidance for the positioning of the upper wing as those parts are connected with at least 2 cabane struts to the fuselage and leave little room for false positiong. The third strut of those pieces were left unglued to be able to place and remove the forward side cowls. With a vernier caliper (?) I measured the exact positions in the upper wing and tried to apply the correct spacing between the upper connections of the cabane struts. Then I placed parts B4 and B5, carefully measuring and positioning. After that the wing struts were placed in line with the cabane struts as they all support the wing below the two girders of the wing.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28441600x1200_zpsebcd379c.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28451600x1200_zpsebda3ebb.jpg)
Then I put some glue in the openings in the upper wing, placed it upside down and let all the struts fit into the upper wing. I found that there was too much glue in the openings for the 4 cabane strut connections, so I'll have to do some correction work there as it messed up the paint there.
But the wing fitted and it is an excellent and strong connection. Nothing wobbly here:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28461600x1200_zpsb2339b12.jpg)
Earlier I tried some dry-brushing on the tires, but that wasn't a big success:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28511600x1200_zps73606f0f.jpg)
You can read Gothania and flugreifen 960 x 100, but there is too much paint around it, where it shouldn'belong.
Size difference in 1:72 and 1:32:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28471600x1200_zps18cbe164.jpg)
Another shot:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28521600x1200_zpsdee841dd.jpg)
And yes, the forward side cowling can be placed and removed again. Just bend the forward cabane strut a little bit, slide the cowling with the appropriate hole over the strut and put it in the rigth place. It is more or less clamped. Here the upper cowling is still loose and needs some more room on top for the airpump.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28531600x1200_zpsabe8d0e5.jpg)
regards,
Ivo
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Getting ever closer now, Ivo ...............
I also ended up with a bit too much glue squeezing out of the wing struts and I did no better dry brushing on tyres either!
Regards
Dave
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Looks great Ivo. I think the tire lettering can be easily enhanced with a little backfilling/retouch with the grey, and then a veeeery light pin wash, (like just 1 shade or 2 darker than the tires)
Cheers
-
Bo,
I'd like to understand what you explained, here perhaps my understanding of english just isn't sufficient.
The first part is that you suggest to carefully paint with a small brush the items around the letters in the original tire color, without touching the letters. The second the pin wash isn't completely clear to me. You suggest I guess to put a wash (in small tiny quantities with a small brush) in such a way that the wash stays in between the letters, but doesn't shadow the whites on top? I could give that a try. The only problem I organised for myself is that I have almost completed the aircraft, so I'll have to find a way to support it on the side, while the pin wash dries on the tires. But I want to try, because with my unsuccesfull attempts of dry brushing I did discover what was written and I just liked how it looked on the model. On pictures if the real thing I have never seen anything written on the tires though.
I was also thinking of another technique which bears some resemblance to what you have been doing on your Albatros D.V. Meaning applying different coats of paint and carefully rubbing the top layer off again at some areas with steel wool.
What I am considering is painting the area with the texts white, give it ample time for drying and cover it with the tire color. Then carefully scraping of the paint on the letters, just removing the top coat of paint. It will be tricky because the letters aren't flat but curved around the tire.
I apply a similar technique on PE number plates for railway engines:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/IMG_1711Kopiren.jpg)
These are number plates for NS steam engines. They are about 4mm wide and 2mm high. Still you can read Nederlandsche above and Spoorwegen below the number. Here the producer forgot the "n" under Spoorwegen in the 1382 number plate, so he promised me a new set.
But these arrive as PE like this:
(http://www.belderok.net/mitropa/werps-nummerschildjes_06194.JPG)
You then spray the number plates black and after it has dried there are at least 3 techniques to remove the paint from the numbers and letters. The most used is to sand it with waterproof sanding paper grade 1000, but that leaves tiny scrape marks. Another is to carefully scratch the plate with an Exacto knife perpendicular to the plate, but then sometimes you remove too much paint. What I like most is to moisten a small piece of paper with white spirit, put the plates face down on this paper and move them carefully with only the pressure of your finger over the wet paper. Then my first picture is the result.
regards,
Ivo
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That might work too :)
(I think you interpreted what I wrote correctly.)
Cheers
-
Haven't started with the tires yet. But the light pin wash is the first method I am going to try as it seems less destructive as my idea.
Some small last items before it is finished:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28731600x1200_zpsc5631042.jpg)
Rigging between the stabiliser and the fin.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28741600x1200_zps674e720d.jpg)
Finally I could connect the control cables for the ailerons. It is not easy to connect the two correctly, but this one is reasonable. On the other side one wire just doesn't want to stay where it belongs.
Then finally I had to do the prop. I have been thinking of an easy way to mark the different laminations, but I just didn't find an easy way. In the end I used the milling machine again and used the accuracy of the compound table:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28661600x1200_zps8ccebc02.jpg)
I clamped the propeller in the table and decided to scratch the propellor from the centre to the tip with 0,65mm in between with which I would achieve 7 laminations that I counted on pictures.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28681600x1200_zps9234508e.jpg)
This is what it looks like after scratching. It looks more dramatic than it is due to the enlargement in the picture. After that I started working with pencils to fill in the layers and trying to sketch some woodgrain into it. I used Faber-Castell Polychromos color pencils.
I don't like the colors yet and the contrast maybe too much, but the layers are correct, especially when checked from the side.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28711600x1200_zps071c8a06.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28721600x1200_zps40847d89.jpg)
The colors will improve when there are a number of layers of clear cote on top.
I am open to suggestions (apart from scrapping this prop and buying a laminated wooden prop, which ofcourse is another solution ;) )
regards,
Ivo
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Ivo,
Impressive!
I think your prop looks pretty good as it is actually.
Regards
Dave
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Ivo , that's exactly how I marked my Alby prop, except I chucked up a sewing needle, and just kind of barely scratched the base coat, worked pretty well..
-
A sewing needle! Once again a good and simple suggestion to be reminded. I tried to fit an exacto blade, which didn't work, I considered clamping in a 0,5mm pencil lead, but in the end I just used a small milling bit.
Next time I'll use a sewing needle of which I have an ample supply now after the tip with the clipped needle for CA glue.
Now I am going for Tamiya clear orange, although the color frightens me a bit. I don't want an orange propellor. I did think I was missing some reddish tint, but orange may do the trick. I hope the Tamiya will set nicely on the pencils and Humbrol base.
I tried to fill in the lighter parts with an orange pencil, but that color didn't appeal to me there.
regards,
Ivo
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Interesting and effective process. Im looking forward to the next update.
Steve
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Hello Ivo:
I think your prop looks fine. I like your method of marking it as well. As someone mentioned, a coat of Tamiya clear Orange and you can call it good.
Best
Mark
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Well, I do have now Tamiya clear orange and Tamiya clear yellow (somewhere I read about using clear yellow, although I'll have a go with orange first).
I liked these colors from Bo:
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-93.jpg)
Maybe orange will achieve this.
I also liked the colors realised with a Humbrol light wood covered with burnt omber oils, but that will be difficult here.
regards,
Ivo
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yup, that's clear orange over desert yellow base and assorted brown and red colored pencil
cheers
-
Well, Red Baron, Tamiya clear orange did the trick.
Last night was spent to draw the laminations on the second front and backsides of the prop. Then a cote of clear orange was sprayed and I am satisfied with the result:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28751600x1200_zps308ed9d9.jpg)
In today's feeble sun light
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28791600x1200_zpsdb616676.jpg)
In the shadow
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28771600x1200_zps72138d38.jpg)
And on the back.
Now on with some more details and the D.VII will be finished.
regards,
Ivo
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Brilliant work on the prop Ivo, bet your pleased with that !
michael
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Looks great, well done
-
Prop turned out great Ivo.
Best
Mark
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I like the milling machine idea for scribing the lamination lines. I don't have one, but it gave an idea for clamping the prop on my drafting table and floating my pencil over it. Thanks for the idea.
-
Ivo,
Absolutely brilliant technique for scribing your laminations my friend. The end product is one outstanding prop. Honestly if I hadn't known this was the kit supplied prop it could have easily been misatken for an aftermarket wooden prop. Well Done!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks a lot for the compliments on the prop. I more or less followed your suggestions and decided to try a little extra technique.
More small detailling:
Prop nut (nonsense to paint by the way, because this side will be completely hidden)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28801600x1200_zpsbfad6108.jpg)
And the general impression. Finally the filling cap is located on the radiator too and given some brass paint.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28861600x1200_zps074c33d6.jpg)
Perhaps a question. I didn't see it mentioned anywhere in the WNW manual, but I painted the filling tube and support LVA khaki, just like the radiator housing itself. It could have been another color like black for instance, but I see no mention of another color.
Started working on the wheel texts too. These are the first steps: letters marked with white and corrections painted around in tire color. Now next step is the pin wash:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_28871600x1200_zps4e07c9af.jpg)
regards,
Ivo
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Nice work!!
Steve
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The letters on the tires aren't a success yet. Painting them white and putting a wash on top does help, but it also becomes a bit messy. There are different grades in its finish, from matt to gloss. And I want it to be completely flat. Of course I can spray some matt cote on top, but I will have to mask everything else then.
Now some thoughts about the thickness of the front panels and cowls inspired by Keith "Kornbeef's" D.VII.
First the chin cowl and the connecting bottom panel:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_29061600x1200_zpsf01f92c2.jpg)
Here you see probably the need for lenghtening the chin cowl. I supposed it wasn't any longer, perhaps even for ventilation purposes. On the left and right you do see very prominent the thickness of the 2 triangular side panels, which were a lot thinner for sure on the real thing. If you make them thinner though, you have to make the bottom panel wider, otherwise it doesn't fit to the fuselage.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_29081600x1200_zpsa4655079.jpg)
I must admit, this one was completely new to me. But you do see ofcourse that the radiator is less wide than the chin cowl. This iwill be corrected when the two top cowls are in place. In my opinion they are thin enough. Thinner can be achieved only if you would make them from metal.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_29091600x1200_zpse3320865.jpg)
Here the top cowls are in place. Those are actually the only parts that don't fit by themselves. Here again the air pump in front of the cam shaft creates problems that can be solved. I still don't know if it is caused by the Taurus parts camshaft or that those problems would surface anyhow. But with the top cowls in place I think WNW did a good job for fitting the radiator, top cowls and chin cowl, but you should put them all together and not leave the top cowls off (what I am doing).
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_29101600x1200_zps4800719e.jpg)
Here again the thickness of the triangular side panel that will be visible when left open. I will remove this one in order to be able to reach the throttle control etc.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_29111600x1200_zps5eb3e226.jpg)
When the side panel is in place everything looks ok to me (ofcourse the top cowl is not yet in its final position)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_29121600x1200_zps54c8ac2f.jpg)
The other side gives thesame impression. I do need to paint the edge of the chin cowl with LVA Khaki.
My idea is that what you see here is the result of making a product of styrene and not in metal. Its a compromise. We just should stop detailling the Mercedes D.III and want to see the result afterwards ;D ;D . Just cover her up and everything will be fine. But no, mine will stay open too.
I am preparing a stand with sand and a field. A friend is already producing some heather too ;)
regards,
Ivo
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Great update on a solid build!!
Steve
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So, after a large exhibition in our National Railway Museum (see here (http://teammitropa.nl/een-terugblik-op-ontraxs-2013)), back towards finishing the D.VII
Some tiny bits needed to be done. One of them the writing on the tires. I'm still not satisfied. I tried the wash method, but that results in all kinds of different shades of grey with different levels of shinyness. Perhaps in the end I am going to spray it all flat grey again.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_30661600x1200_zps94c17ba9.jpg)
I need some 1:32 mechanic for the display and a dutch 1:32 bicycle. For the rest it is nearing the end:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_30641600x1200_zps408fb408.jpg)
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG_30621600x1200_zps5b0bc594.jpg)
regards,
Ivo
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A great and very infomative build (I learned a lot from) coming close to completion Ivo. Love that prop.
-
I really like the shading on the wings. This adds a lot of realism. Very well done.
Stefan
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Lovely build Ivo, well done.
Cheers
Pete.
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Great work Ivo :)
michael
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Ivo,
Back to your shading/weathering on the wings in particular; I couldn't decide whether to leave my F2b with only the pre-shaded effect or to augment it with some post-shading using Bud's method with chalk pastels. After going back and viewing your work I decided on adding the pastels, as I really am impressed with the results you have here. Beautiful work all round on this one and Thanks for pointing out the way for me!
Cheers,
Lance
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Lance,
Nice that you have found something to use yourself. It was my first serious attempt at weathering. I thought it was necessary because the LVA scheme will be extremely dull otherwise. I still have the impression that the weathering looks much heavier on the pictures then life. I did some pre shading too on the bottom wings, but I find pre shading very difficult as the result depends to a great extent to the evenness of the coat sprayed on top. With the pastels there is more fixing possible.
I still am not completely satisfied with the fuselage though, I did some weathering there, but it is more general than connected to some surface detail.
I need to have some experience in this if I am going to tackle an LVA Sopwith Pup in PC10.
regards,
Ivo
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That is a fine build! Very well done all around. personally, I like your pastel work. Much better than my first effort!
The prop is outstanding!
RAGIII
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Ivo,
Great to see you nearing the end of your superb build of this WNW kit - very much looking forward to seeing the end result.
Regards
Dave
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Excellent build. A Tamiya 1/35 bike and Aber p/e spokes might do the trick for you.
Steve
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Ivo, that's an impressive build and the markings help it to stand out. Thanks for the closeups of the nose and future problems I'll face with my build.
I wonder if resin side plates could be made thinner and more in scale? Perhaps a job for Ron to look at?
Dal.
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Just got my "first" "WnW" kit, and decided to start with the "Fokker D. VII" - "Thank You" for an excellent build log, it helped IMMENSELY!! :) :)
Jim J. -- "olfogey"
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That's why it's here. Glad to be of help. Now, please show us your D.VII ;)
regards,
Ivo
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Dittos, nice clean build
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That's why it's here. Glad to be of help. Now, please show us your D.VII ;)
regards,
Ivo
Just at the "looking & planning" stage, but plan to start this week-end. Probably won't get a bunch done over Christmas, but at least wanted to get a "start".
I don't see myself doing a "build log", as my photography & computer skills aren't up to that..........but I do plan to post pics of the final result, however it turns out ;) :) Jim J. -- "olfogey"
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Sounds good, Jim. Enjoy the build. If you like, let us know how it's going.
Have a merry Christmas!
Cheers,
Ernie
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Jim, take your time. When I started I expected to finish the model within a few weeks. In the end I needed about 3 months. Ofcourse family and work interfered with the progress ;)
But I'm still interested in the result. Don't hesitate to ask anything. This forum has so many helpful modellers, you will be surprised!
regards,
Ivo
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Thanks Ivo :), and believe me, I plan to have you guys help me whenever I get stuck!! (lol - which might be often).
I see from the build log that we share "Model Railroading" - I'm hoping that will help a bit :)
Jim J. -- "olfogey"
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Impressive. Very nicely done. Congrats.
Cheers